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About dalekphalm

  • Title
    Ginger Beard
  • Birthday 1986-09-24

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Ontario, Canada
  • Occupation
    IT Technician

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  1. What bitrate? But the answer is almost certainly yes, if you're talking about game streaming or game recording. Basically any WD Red Pro has a sustained write speed of around 160 MB/s (faster for some of the larger models) Even if you were to crank up the bitrate to 1080p Blu-Ray levels, you're looking at under 50 Mbps (about 6.25 MB/s) - let's double it for 4K UHD Blu-Ray bitrate at about 100 Mbps - and you're still only doing about 12.5 MB/s. Basically, recording video that isn't Cinema Grade isn't going to make the WD Red Pro even break a sweat.
  2. Sorry, I think you need to clarify this. You can do a few different things. 1. If you can route the WAN cable into that network box, you could just put your router there, and use it's internal LAN ports instead of a switch (they do the same thing in this context). 2. If you cannot move the router to this box, you'll need to feed the router back there - if you're only hooking up one other jack, you can just pass through the router's jack to the new jack. However, if you need 2 jacks (aside from the router), you'll need something there to port multiply (either a switch or the router). Does that make sense?
  3. Agreed - this prompt is only for EU SKU's ('N' versions, I believe?) Neither Canada nor US sees these prompts. Let's be perfectly honest - Valve isn't just going to "cut off" France - it's a country with a 66 million population. Plus if you piss off France, you risk pissing off the entire EU (500 million people) and Valve sure as hell can't afford to just stop doing business with the EU. Sure they "could" just stop doing business with France. No, they're not going to. France is probably closer than most countries when it comes to "buying" digital games. Their courts already ruled that digital games are eligible for resale, which by definition must mean you own the game (you can't sell something you're renting, because you don't own it). Fines can make a big deal - either through a mass of people each taking Valve to Court and them having to pay many small fines, or a Class Action lawsuit, or if the EU steps in, they're not afraid to throw around $Billion Euro fines.
  4. Assuming the LCD panel itself is the only thing damaged, sure - you could totally repair it by replacing the panel. You'd have to disassemble the monitor and find out what display is inside, and see if you can even find a replacement (or equivalent). If you can, hopefully it's very cheap - otherwise it may not be worth the cost of repair.
  5. How often does she need to print? And how many pages on average per print job? Very compact printers are probably going to be extremely expensive to operate.
  6. That is the most bizarre setup I've seen. If it's coax, it'll have a single large solid wire in the middle, with thick insulation around it. Okay - so depending on how it's all laid out, you may need to re-arrange things. This is the order that things must be installed: 1. "Source" internet cable (this would be the cable that plugs into your Modem/Router) 2. -> Into WAN port on Router 3. Router then connects any LAN port to the Switch 4. -> Switch then feeds the network ports in the box (which lights up each jacked room) So, if your router isn't in the same room as that box, you might need to use one of the walljacks to "back feed" the switch, if there's a jack available in the same room as the router. If not, you may have to move the router or run some new cable.
  7. It's quite possible the US will help - France and the US have a mutual legal assistance treaty. Granted, the White House is so adversarial right now that I have no idea whether they would help or not - but there are legal measures in place for France to request US help in the matter.
  8. This cable - is it ethernet? Does it come in and go into your Router? Is your Router a Modem/Router or just a Router? You can post the model number if you're not sure. Probably because their router is likely a modem router. Great - still some questions for you to answer but looking good.
  9. So let's make some assumptions: 1. The cable that "comes in" to your apartment is your WAN cable - the source of your internet. Is this an Ethernet Cable? 2. The other cables are wired into each room Here's what I suggest: 1. Buy a cheap Ethernet Cable Tester - get something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Stanz-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B01K1DBKN6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ethernet+cable+tester&qid=1576349330&sr=8-3 These are factory OEM testers that companies just rebrand - I have the Monoprice version but it's literally the same hardware. 2. Test each jack Using the above mentioned cable tester (or equivalent), connect one end to the jack in one of your rooms. Connect the other end to each port in your network box, one at a time, until you locate the correct jack - LABEL THE JACK. Repeat for each room until you've located and mapped the jack for every room. Also make note of how many wires light up. Ethernet is 4-pairs - 8 wires in total. The tester will send a signal down each wire, which will light up on the tester itself. Make sure all 8 light up. If some are not lighting up, you may need to cut off the last inch or so of the cable and re-wire ("terminate") it. 3. Just use a switch. Take the "feeder" line and plug that into a standard unmanaged Gigabit Switch (Basically any switch will work - TP-Link, D-Link, Linksys, Asus, etc). Then plug all the other jacks into the switch too. Questions: 1. Where does the internet come from? It arrives as an ethernet cable inside that box, where's the other end? Does your "Flat Manager" have a modem/router somewhere in the building? 2. You mentioned a router - where is it? How is it connected? Is that the Flat Managers router, or do you have your own. 3. What kind of "Internet" is it? Eg: Fibre (to the home), DSL (either regular or VDSL), Cable (DOCSIS 2.0 or DOCSIS 3.x), etc? 4. Do you contract directly with the ISP and pay your own internet, or does the Flat Manager just offer you internet as part of the deal? We need to determine how the network flows, and what devices are already in the mix. Once we figure that out, it should be fairly trivial to test out the network jacks, and - if working - get you wired up in every room.
  10. Yeah you can definitely take the right driver on one and wire it up with the left driver on the other. It's fundamentally no different from replacing a bad 3.5mm connector. Though there might be minute tuning differences between the different sets - I doubt it'll be noticeable though, but you could just listen to the same thing on both at the same time and test ahead of time.
  11. The end results are likely pretty similar. Personally, I'd go for the LG, but I'm sure either would be a great TV.
  12. Could be - but enough to counteract the naturally larger size of each frame? I'd want to see testing compare each. I'm sure there's a sweet spot, but which one wins? 10 bit w/ less dithering, or 8 bit w/ more dithering? Would be an interesting head-to-head.
  13. I doubt there's going to be any meaningful way to block the App ads - but you might try reaching out to Samsung support about that one. You could try one of those Pi blackhole type setups that tries to block all ads, but I doubt it would actually capture and block the App ads. For rebinding the buttons? Yes and no. No, you won't be able to just straight rebind them. But you could do it in a roundabout way. You could take the IR receiver on the TV, and connect that to an extender (making sure to cover any remaining visible portion of the receiver to block all signal. Then, you could take that extender and put it into a Raspberry Pi or similar via an IR blaster. You would then further connect another IR receiver to the Pi. Then, you write a program on the Pi that will capture the codes for the remote, and pass through all of the regular buttons. And you could just use different codes (whichever command codes you wanted) to rebind the dedicated keys. Of course you'll still be limited by whatever command codes your TV actually supports - and a lot of trial and error would likely be required.
  14. That's not very logical - 10 bit colour vs 8 bit colour means that each colour value uses 10 bits instead of 8 bits, because there's a much higher variation in colour choices (256 choices per 8-bit channel and 1024 choices per 10-bit channel - RGB of course). So intuitively, all things being equal, 10-bit video should be larger than an otherwise identical 8-bit video. Now, there could be some software things going on that negate that, but I'm not versed enough to say.
  15. If anyone starts selling these en masse (even if it's a knock off, as long as it's good quality), I'd be interested.