Sir_damian

The rear IO piece of the card is screwed into the PCIe bracket of the case, for shorter cards this would be enough. You could just add the holding piece after installing the GPU to get a perfect measurement on where to install it.

This game is rather light on graphics so even 2060s should be more than sufficient for 4x 1080p60Hz... 

PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor $174.99 @ B&H Motherboard MSI B450 Gaming Plus MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard $104.99 @ Amazon Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory $84.99 @ Amazon Storage Western Digital Blue 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $69.98 @ Amazon Video Card Gigabyte Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card $399.99 @ Newegg Case Fractal Design Focus G ATX Mid Tower Case $57.98 @ Newegg Power Supply Corsair CXM 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $89.95 @ Amazon   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total $982.87   Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-13 17:48 EDT-0400   If each moniter is 1080p 60hz it should do.

Macrium Reflect does a great job of cloning hard disks to SSDs. 

Hey it comes with 2 6+2 pins already routed in the case. And there should be 2 more included in the box.

Disk management is a windows 10 feature that makes that kind of transfer pretty simple. 

The compatibility list is just devices that the manufacturer has specifically tested. A device doesn't need to be on the list to work correctly. 

PCIE which is the slot your GPU plugs into is a industry standard. Any PCIE device, whether is a SSD,NIC, GPU, ect should work without issue. That board will definitely work with a 2060.

either should get you similar cooling, with EK's you can expand it down the road if you want (make sure you only use aluminum parts, copper+aluminum=corrosion) and replace the pump eventually when it dies, but you should clean out and replace the coolant regularly (like every year or so) 
With the ml240l you won't have the maintenance work of flushing and replacing coolant, but when the pump dies replacing it probably isn't a viable option and you can't expand it (most AIOs are mixed metal loops, but avoid corrosion through chemicals in the fluid. You can open them up and expand them, but it's do at your own risk and you better know what you're doing)
Hope that helps you make your choice

Yes agreed. You should never use a custom water loop unless you know exactly what you're doing. Too much risk of leaks which can be fatal on a computer

There really is no 'beginner' option ..well there is kinda, but it only takes out some of the decision making.
 
AIO's are installed just as a Air cooler would be, there's nothing u can take away from installing an AIO that will help you build a custom loop.
 
So if u are thinking about getting into custom loops, dont even consider an AIO as being even remotely similar.
 
 
A 'beginner' custom loop i supose would be buying a 'kit' from EKWB. That will take out most of the decision making, leaving you to just build the system. After that ur next step for a future build would be to pick out the parts yourself.

Its not a arduino, but the same code and accessories work. Basically off brand.

Wind turbines are better than solar panels. Solar panels are really very inefficient, take a lot of space and aren't all that cheap. Also hope nothing catches fire on a sunny day, coz extinguishing solar panels on a sunny day is a bit of a bitch (and it's always sunny in Florida). The upside is that you'd have a lot of sun, but that's about it. I found a neat site that compares just both... Anyway, check both and then decide...
 
https://greenfuture.io/solar/wind-vs-solar-energy

Welcome to the forums!
 
This is something I suggested in another topic but your budget is the same, I recommend this:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor $164.99 @ Amazon CPU Cooler Cooler Master - Hyper 212 Black Edition 42 CFM CPU Cooler $31.99 @ Newegg Motherboard ASRock - X470 Master SLI/AC ATX AM4 Motherboard $133.98 @ Newegg Memory Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $99.99 @ Newegg Business Storage Crucial - MX500 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $67.95 @ Amazon Storage Seagate - BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $42.99 @ Newegg Business Video Card Gigabyte - GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB WINDFORCE OC Video Card $364.99 @ SuperBiiz Case Phanteks - Eclipse P300 Tempered Glass (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case $53.98 @ Newegg Business Power Supply Corsair - RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $72.00 @ Newegg Business   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total (before mail-in rebates) $1042.86   Mail-in rebates -$10.00   Total $1032.86   Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-19 17:37 EST-0500    
But with a still decent quality PSU and Motherboard, and just sticking with the stock air cooler, you could get this:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor $164.99 @ Amazon Motherboard Gigabyte - B450 AORUS ELITE ATX AM4 Motherboard $115.06 @ Newegg Memory Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $99.99 @ Newegg Business Storage ADATA - SU655 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $52.99 @ Amazon Storage Seagate - BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $42.99 @ Newegg Business Video Card Asus - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB DUAL OC Video Card $489.99 @ Newegg Business Case Phanteks - Eclipse P300 Tempered Glass (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case $53.98 @ Newegg Business Power Supply Corsair - CXM 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $39.99 @ Newegg   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total (before mail-in rebates) $1079.98   Mail-in rebates -$20.00   Total $1059.98   Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-19 17:39 EST-0500    
Another alternative, if you have a use for multiple cores, is the R7 1700 CPU for $158:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3kPzK8/amd-ryzen-7-1700-30ghz-8-core-processor-yd1700bbaebox
 
EDIT: The EVGA 650W G3 is unnecessary, a 550W Corsair RMx or Corsair CXm like I suggested is perfect, both are good quality.  

Huh?  That's a new one on me... my "cheap" AIO runs very cool and quiet. And others I have seen and used haven't been loud either.

AIOs just work out of the box and are less likely to leak. 

Doing a custom loop is more difficult that an AIO or air cooler, most of the time. I honestly think that you should stick with an air cooler since it's silent and there are less points of failure.
 
The custom loop would take the most time and money compared to the AIO and air cooler. 

As a beginner, start with an 240/280MM AIO. Custom loops are challenging and can often leak your first time trying if you're a newbie. 
 
Buy one of those "custom AIO's" that are out there. Alphacool makes one, I think...

Water cooling Basic
Water cooling breaks down into two subcategories:

1) Custom Loop cooling- You add different parts to make a whole water cooling loop. These consist of; Pumps, Water blocks, (CPU, GPU, Mobo, Mosfets, Ram HDD If you can think of a computer part someone makes a block for it.) Radiators, and lastly Reservoir. You can mix and match all these different parts in different way to create a loop that is tailored made for your system.
2) All in one closed cooling loops- The name is pretty self explanatory. These all self contained cooling system that pull all those different parts into one unite. They are always sealed and cannot be opened. They compare to good high end air cooling apparatuses but cannot keep up with a custom cooling loop. I won't be cover just about anything on these as they are very popular products and don't need much explanation

Your budget is going too decided on which route you will take on these two ideas. If you are looking to stay under $150 you will probably want to go with the All in one closed cooling loops. You will get what you pay for with this group. If you are looking to jump into the Custom water cooling world look to start with about $300 and it will go up from there. I have seen people on this forum that easily spend $1000+ on their loops. Don't think you can cheap out on WC you will regret it in the end and more than likely spending more because of it.

Watercooling basic theory and Delta-T
*This all comes from TomsHardware Sticky v2 by Rubix_1011 all credit goes to him. He does far better job explaining this all then I could. (http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277130-29-read-first-watercooling-sticky)

Watercooling is based on the set of principles that water is proportionally better than air to conduct heat away from a heat source based on conduction, or the direct contact of a heated source and a cooling source to transfer heat energy rather than convection, otherwise known as thermal conductivity. The ability of a substance to directly absorb heat energy is considered it's specific heat; in this case, the ability of heat directly absorbed by water and the required energy to raise overall temperatures by 1°C. While convection takes place with normal air coolers to provide the ability for air to absorb dissipated heat from the cooler, watercooling also employs this concept to some degree. Once the water absorbs heat energy via conduction from the blocks, it then transfers that through tubing to radiators cooled by fans. The difference is that a larger amount of heat energy is able to be absorbed and moved at any given time with a water loop due to pump flow forcing turbulent water through the radiator tubes while the radiator provides greater surface area to conduct heat energy from the water to the radiator and then into the air. The process is more efficient at transferring, displacing and dissipating excess heat energy based on the delta-T of the loop design. In short, the ability of water's excellent specific heat allow it to absorb heat much more quickly and efficiently from a source of heat (as well as also dissipating that heat back to a cooling source for dissipation) so it can also transport far more of that absorbed energy due to the thermal capacity of it as a medium away from heat sources to be expelled elsewhere.


Thermal Conductivity of Common Cooling Mediums (@~20°C; W/mK)
Higher values are better

Water...............................................0.610
Mineral Oil........................................0.162
Alcohol(Ethyl, Isopropyl, Buytl)...........0.161-0.200
Ethylene Glycol..................................0.258
Air...................................................0.0257


Specific Heat of Common Cooling Mediums (@~20°C;kJ/kg.K)
Higher values are better

Water...............................................4.19
Air...................................................1.00
Mineral Oil........................................1.67
Copper.............................................0.093
Ethylene glycol..................................2.36
Copper.............................................0.093
Ethylene glycol..................................2.36

When it comes to figuring out how much radiator you need for your specific loop, you have to start doing some math. I know that we all have been building a loop and thought, ˜how many, what size and what kind of radiators do I need for this loop to stay cool like I want?"

First tip: Google is your best friend to help find TDP (Thermal Design Power}

Finding out what the TDP or your CPU or GPU is can be as simple as doing some searches by searching for i7 2600k TDP', GTX 580 TDP, or AMD 6970 TDP. Remember to account for all components, if you run a multi-card graphics setup, you need to include the TDP values for all cards in the total. For example, our i7 2600k has a stock TDP of about 95 watts at 100% load (estimated). If we have a 2x SLI setup of GTX 580's, we are looking at about 244 watts at 100% load, per card. Total? About 583 watts in heat that these three components can potentially produce when at 100% load, simultaneously; it's also safe to consider that heat dissipation can never be 100% efficient of power consumption, so even calcuating 85-90% of your TDP total is pretty safe. (This also translates very closely to wattage when you need to consider a power supply for your system, but you need to account for the remaining components: motherboard, fans, hard drives, DVD drives, etc. To help calculate a full system TDP, you can use a tool like the Extreme PSU Calculator (link). In short, when calculating loop TDP, simply add up the total values for components being cooled in the loop...if you have more than one video card, make sure you add in TDP for each one. If you want to simply calculate the overclocked TDP wattage of your CPU, just adjust the CPU section of the calculator or utilize the calculation listed a bit later.

Once you have calculated your total loop TDP potential, you need to consider radiators that dissipate heat in watts depending on flow rate of your loop and fans being used and their speeds/power. For this task, I almost always refer to *Skinneelabs.com link from Archive.org* for all of this crucial information, graphs and comparisons.

For example, I am going to reference the XSPC RX360 radiator for this loop. Given the total TDP of 583 watts, I want to know if this single radiator is enough for my loop, or if I should consider another radiator.



Looking at this chart, we can see that the maximum amount of heat this radiator can dissipate is around 555 watts using 2800 rpm fans (very fast, very loud). You could get better results in a push/pull scenario, but that's even louder; you may be able to live with a 15-20° delta and loud fans if you went this route.

In short, Delta-T is the load temperature of the water in your loop when compared to ambient air temps; if your room ambient is 27°C, and load water temp is 34°C, this gives you an approximate Delta of 7°C if you are running 100% load on all components being cooled by the loop. Basically, delta-T is a mathematical derivative of your ambient room temperature, flow rate, heat to be dissipated (in watts) and the ability of your radiator to dissipate heat (in watts) depending on fans used to produce the cooling impact by the loop as a whole. You'll notice the chart above has a listing of different fans in the upper-left corner: this determines the angle of the graph and the temperature delta on the left side of the graph. Lower fan speeds correlate to a higher delta-T as you add more heat in watts to the loop. The more heat you produce, the more important it is to remove it from the loop; and fans help accomplish this goal. If you notice the actual temperatures on the lines of the graph at the determined points (around 300 watts of load and around 555 watts), you'll see that the fan speed allows the heat dissipation to be rather normalized. However, the further to the right (and up the graph you go), you'll also notice that your delta-T rises. Below a 5° is incredibly good, 10° is still very good and even 15° deltas are very much the norm. If we wanted to run this loop at a 10° delta, we would need to run two of these RX360 radiators to keep the heat load in watts below 300 watts dissipated per radiator with fans of 600-2800 rpm (in a single-fan setup; push/pull would allow some leniency here; perhaps a RX360 and an RX240, instead).

Granted, TDP and determining our delta-T isn't an exact science, but it gets us pretty close. It's a bit more tedius to calculate CPU overclocked wattage; however, here is a great calculation to help CPU overclocking and estimated TDP:

OC Wattage = TDP * ( OC MHz / Stock MHz) * ( OC Vcore / Stock Vcore )^2

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Quote :

Example:
Intel i7 2600k
3.4ghz (3400mhz)
1.25v
95 watts TDP

For this example I will use a relatively average overclock voltage of 1.35v to reach 4.5ghz (4500mhz)

OC Wattage = TDP x ( OC MHz / Stock MHz) x ( OC Vcore / Stock Vcore )^2

OC Wattage = 95 x (4500/3400) x (1.35/1.25)^2

OC Wattage = 95 x (1.3235) x (1.08)^2

OC Wattage = 95 x 1.3235 x 1.1664

OC Wattage = 147 (which is exactly what was calculated by the PSU calculator for overclocked CPU watts on this chip)
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*This is all very complicated and can be hard to understand. You will likely need to do more reading then what I can provide here. I do have a general rule that you can read about in the Rad section of this guide that can make all this complicated stuff unnecessary.
[h=2]For more information please refer to overclocker.com Guide to Delta-T in Water Cooling[/h]
[h=2]http://www.overclockers.com/guide-deltat-water-cooling/[/h]

RAM speed does matter, in a few frames to a few more frames..  There are videos like this all over that compare various speeds, and on average faster RAM brings more FPS.  How much and how much it's worth to you... that's your call.
 
 
 
 

I did say that the yields decrease as you go higher in ram speed.
 
But for example with a very high end GPU at 1080p you will get significantly extra frames from 2133 to 3200 with a fast cpu, but going from 3200 to 4000+ isn't going to do as much if at all for gaming.

Ram speed is going to depend on what your motherboard supports.
 
Everything past 2666 is considered overclocking, but they will have xmp profiles you just click in bios to get it to work.
 
3200 on a Z board should be fine and will probably with work with just xmp.
 
If you are really concerned look at the QVL list on your motherboards website and pick the right one.
 
Higher speeds have lesser yields and might need tweaks to work