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About kirashi

  • Title
    Web Developer, IT Consultant, Photographer, Spotify Addict


  • CPU
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z97M Gaming
  • RAM
    2x 8GB DDR3-2133 G.SKILL RipjawsX F3-2133C11D-16GXL
  • GPU
    Radeon HD 5750
  • Case
    Air 240 White & Red Edition // Custom Ford Cardinal Red Paint
  • Storage
    2x 500GB Crucial MX200 SSD // 2x 3TB Toshiba DT01ACA HDD // 2x 2TB Western Digital HDD // 500GB Hitachi P7K500 HDD // 1.5TB Seagate Bad Cache Edition
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 650GS 80+
  • Display(s)
    2x ASUS PA238QR IPS 1080p
  • Cooling
    Phanteks PH-TC12LS
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G710+ (MX-Brown)
  • Mouse
    Logitech G500
  • Sound
    Logitech X-540 Speakers // Logitech UE9000 Headphones
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro (Insider)
  • PCPartPicker URL

Contact Methods

  • Twitter
  • Google+
  • Facebook
  • Yahoo
  • Steam
  • Xbox Live
  • PlayStation
  • Website URL
  • Twitch.tv
  • Instagram

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Nanaimo, BC
  • Occupation
    Web Developer, IT Consultant, Photographer

Recent Profile Visitors

3,035 profile views
  1. I cannot initialize my HDD

    If it's brand new, you can RMA it under warranty, or possibly even exchange it where you bought it directly. It's rare, but you definitely can get a brand new drive that's dead on arrival.
  2. I cannot initialize my HDD

    Take the drive out of your computer and connect it to another computer, just for testing purposes. Since CrystalDisk Info is not polling any SMART data... or any data at all, this points to either drive failure, or much less likely, SATA cable or port failure on the motherboard. You can try swapping the SATA cable out for a known good working one, or moving the drive to another port on the motherboard, but I'd say the drive is deaded.
  3. Audio Connect Notification Spammed

    Sounds like you may have a short in the wiring to the front panel audio connector, or in the connector itself. If you just want it to stop, unplug the HD_AUDIO cable from the header on your motherboard. If you want to fix it... um... RMA the case if still under warranty, or break out the soldering kit.
  4. Your concern of coil whine is 100% valid, however, there have been far fewer reports of this on the batches of XPS 15 9560's that were shipping during last summer and fall than the ones when it first launched, so definitely keep that in mind when researching the XPS 15 9570. That being said, you could also opt to save a bit and go with an XPS 15 9560 instead of the 9570 - the only difference is an 7th gen vs 8th gen CPU between the old and new versions. If you've gotta have the latest 8th gen CPU, I totally get and respect that, but for engineering, AutoCAD, or ever some medium-to-heavy media editing, the 7th gen i7-7700HQ is no slouch. *Please note, my recommendation may be slightly biased, but I can absolutely tell you that I LOVE my XPS 15 9560 since getting it last August, and am so happy I didn't end up going with the cheaper Lenovo Ideapad 510s because of the extra ports, power, and battery life on the XPS, and will probably be an XPS user for life.
  5. Laptop SSD Cache Non-Functional

    Sadly, ASUS does not believe in customers repairing their products, as they do not provide publicly accessible service manuals. However, the good news is that there are quite a few guides from users floating around the internet if you search "ASUS S46C disassembly" in Google. Below is a screenshot with the location of what I believe is the tiny mSATA cache drive circled in red. Yes, it's a lot of work, but if you want to get that drive out of there, this is the only way. http://glogicforum.blogspot.ca/2015/05/asus-s46c-disassembly-steps.html
  6. Access points?

    An access point from Ubiquiti will be your best bet. You probably don't need the UAP-AC-PRO for residential use, as the UAP-AC-LR or even a couple of the UAP-AC-LITE units will do the trick if installed at both ends of the home, or if you put one on each floor. However, if Ubiquiti's hardware doesn't improve things, then either a) your house is made of lead, or b) whomever designed your house did not do so with wireless internet in mind.
  7. Laptop SSD Cache Non-Functional

    What laptop model number do you have? If it's a Dell, HP, or Lenovo, I may be able to get a service manual so you know how to take it apart to remove the cache drive.
  8. What forum theme do you use?

    Whoa, alrighty then, I guess I best not tell you about my Rainbowz theme then...
  9. Limited Ethernet

    A factory reset or hard reset puts the modem back to default factory settings. This can clear out residual data that may be causing it to not properly assign an IP to your computer, but will also reset any customization you may have done to the wireless network names or passwords to the factory defaults. If you're unsure how to do this, consult your ISP's support website or call their support line for more information.
  10. Limited Ethernet

    Have you factory reset the potato, I mean, modem from Xfinity? If not, do that next as it could be failing to lease an IP via DHCP to your computer for whatever reason. Do a factory reset on the modem and reboot your computer at the same time with the ethernet cable unplugged, then plug it back in once everything has rebooted and you've confirmed internet works on other devices.
  11. Synology vs Windows 10 RAID - Backup is Priority

    Great that you're all set with your critical data! In this case, I'd recommend going with option 2 if learning about dual boot, RAID setups, or general tinkering is your desire. This is especially helpful if you're good at troubleshooting or taking a computer related course for school or work. Otherwise if it's just networked storage and media streaming you want, go with the Synology or a similar pre-built NAS option.
  12. Synology vs Windows 10 RAID - Backup is Priority

    RAID IS NOT A BACKUP. Now that that's out of the way, I personally would decide where you want to compromise. If you need always-on access to the data on a system that won't eat your power, and you want something uber easy to setup and maintain, then going with a Synology makes sense. However, if you need the power of virtualization for running servers or general messing about, then having things running on a full PC 24/7 would be my choice, although it's going to cost more in the long term, not to mention if you need to make changes to your PC, it's going to take the network shares offline, where as the Synology is standalone. Back to my statement about RAID not being a backup. It's not. Please don't use RAID as your only backup. For any reason. Ever. Period. There are too many factors that can cause a RAID array to be completely unrecoverable, from catastrophic failures of multiple drives all at the same time to failed hardware RAID cards, resulting in an inability to rebuild your array unless you have a spare RAID card running the exact same firmware version as the previous one. If you're going to use RAID as a hot-backup solution, that's fine, but you must also backup to a cold storage solution, and test restoring these backups. My method for "backup" is technically also not cold storage, so I'm not a great example, but I've mitigated the risks of traditional RAID setups by going with StableBit's DrivePool software on my desktop with dual 500GB SSD's and dual 3TB HDD's. This allows me to have RAID0/1 read/write capabilities on both sets of dual drives, meaning my data is duplicated during write for redundancy, and striped during read for 2x performance. On top of this, StableBit DrivePool doesn't do anything proprietary to the drives because they use a filesystem driver to manage the DrivePools on standard NTFS partitions inside a hidden folder. This allows me to pop out a drive at any time to read data on any other computer that can read NTFS drives, something a RAID system can never allow. As I mentioned, this is still technically a hot-backup system, so it won't protect me from local disasters like fires, nor will it protect me from Malware, but it's good enough for my needs as I backup important things in triplicate using DropBox across multiple PC's, and am willing to live with the 99.99% protection from Malware that my CommonSense™ of 10+ years working in the IT industry has given me in order to protect my data from Malware.
  13. $250 dollars with 6th gen?

    Um, you might want to look into software law in your country. I'm not a lawyer, but EULA's govern the use of software, so while a country's laws definitely trump EULA's it won't stop a software company from preventing one's use of their software for not complying with the EULA. You're spot on that it's not worth suing consumers over their use of re-sold OEM keys, however, it's entirely within Microsoft's power to revoke the validity of any license key for any reason at any time, because software is licensed, not sold. Would there be backlash if they did this? Absolutely, but I also think we'd see the software industry wakeup and come up with a better way to develop and sell licenses.
  14. $250 dollars with 6th gen?

    Regardless of your country laws, it's still against Microsoft's EULA to resell OEM keys to someone who isn't an OEM system builder, and it's also against the EULA to activate these keys on another system than they were originally intended for. I'm not saying it won't work, and your country may not do anything about it, but the fact is it's still against Microsoft's EULA. This is why I don't recommend buying non-retail software from unauthorized resellers like Kinguin or eBay. But I sort of agree with your statement regarding what something is worth - items are only worth as much as someone is willing to pay for them. You can put a price on anything; that's the nature of the free market. However, what one person deems as an acceptable price another may not accept at all due to each person's use-case and personal needs. For example, I need Microsoft Office for collaboration, however, I only use it maybe for a combined total of 25 / 365 days per year, making it absolutely not worth purchasing a license for, be it a retail copy at ~$170 CAD or their O365 subscription. On top of that, there are certain features I never use, such as Outlook's calendar or Excel's sparklines, so I don't personally see any value in those features, thus reducing the overall value I'd be getting for the same price as someone who uses those features. I'd happily pay an appropriate monthly rate for O365 Home if I could fully customize my subscription, because I have no use for Access, OneNote, Outlook, Skype, or OneDrive storage. My point is that with all the subscription options available on the market, and developer's ability to add/remove features on a whim, paying for software should be like ordering a combo meal from McDonalds: Customer A wants a double big mac, large fries, soda pop, mcflurry shake, and 10 chicken nuggets, so they pay a price that reflects everything ordered, say $12 for example. Customer B wants the same order, but instead of a double big mac they want a single, downsize to medium fries, 6 chicken nuggets, and only order the soda pop, reducing their overall cost to $8 for example. They still get to enjoy the same kind of food, it just has less "features" than Customer A's order. The reality here is that Microsoft, Apple, Google, and even cable companies and media distributors have not yet learned that you cannot force users to use all aspects of your platform if a better alternative exists, or if they just don't need the extra bundled features. It's why I have no problem paying for Netflix, Spotify, and Dropbox, for around a total of $35 CAD per month, because each service provides an unparalleled experience in streaming video, music, and cloud storage, respectively. The competitors don't come close to offering the same level of product at an affordable price without bundling in features I don't want or need, although pretty soon I'll have to decide between DropBox and Google Drive, as Google Photos has everyone else beat for photo backup and organization right now...
  15. Help me under stand types of BluRay Drives

    Yes, Ultra HD BluRay is based on the BlueRay format, but has a different standard to carry the information needed for 4K content. There's a great wiki article on the differences, so definitely look at getting a BluRay drive that supports these discs if you plan on playing or ripping them using software like DVDFab so you can enjoy the content you have a license to watch on any device you have in or out of your home. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra_HD_Blu-ray