LyondellBasell

I don't really see any issue here. The samples you posted are zoomed in at 900-something percent. Even if you print these pretty big, you're not going to be able to see the pixelation. Unless you've got serious grain or banding showing up, I think you're okay to continue shooting at 6400. (Obviously more light and lower ISO is preferable.)

Given the inherent visual nature and deep scope of photography, I think trying to make a guide in the forum-post format would be doing both the beginners AND the experienced photographers trying to teach them a disservice. Maybe we could create a pinned post with a list of our member's favorite YT tutorials or channels as a jumping off point though? What do you guys think?

Best thing you can do is to properly light your set. With a sensor that small, the more light you can feed it, the better. Shutting the blinds will reduce the amount of *unwanted* light in the video, but you need to add "correct" light back in.

You can force it with regedits or you can turn your PC off when you're done using it. Realistically, unless you're leaving the same image on the screen for days at a time, it's not going to burn in.

Right click taskbar >> Taskbar Settings >> Toggle "Automatically hide the taskbar in desktop mode" to "On"

If you can wait a *few* more months, the EOS R is going to drop in price again when the R5 comes out. 30 MP makes for some outstanding detail in photos when you put L-level glass in front of it. There are absolutely other bodies out there with faster AF and shutter speeds but unless you absolutely need those capabilities, it's hard to find a better body that will 1) let you keep all your Canon glass 2) let you buy into the new stuff should you want to 3) come in at a sub-2K price

Can you tell us more about what you'd be looking for in a replacement? The 1dx series is amazing for shooting action and sports, but I'd be hesistant to recommend buying back into the line if you'd be better served by something higher-resolution and smaller (assuming that you can get away with it given the type of work you do.) How important is having phase-detect AF vs contrast/mirrorless style AF to you?

This might be an outlier opinion but I would leave the lens costs out. Put in a "disclaimer" or reminder that newcomers will need to factor in lens costs before immediately jumping into a purchase, but I don't think lens costs are part of a camera buying guide. There are so many use cases, preferences, options, and cross-mount adapters that making lens recommendations is best done on a case-by-case basis. I recognize that alot of people new to photography might be reading the guide. If they're so new that they don't know what to look for, then a used starter camera with the kit lens is pretty much always the best recommendation. If they have enough experience that they know they want to go in a certain direction, then they can absolutely make a post asking for "best next lens to get".

He just explained, though. Better performance: some VA panels have low latency. Some have high latency. Some IPS panels have low latency. Some have high latency. Check the individual unit you have and compare it to units you might consider buying. Better image quality: some VA panels are well calibrated. Others are not. Some IPS panels are well calibrated. Some are not. Check the individual unit you have and compare it to units you might consider buying. It's all about the value YOU place on certain specs. No one can state your priorities for you.

Nah, you're good. As long as the mechanical operation of the pump hasn't been affected and you can seal it back up properly, it's gonna be okay. Fill it back up to the max with water and carefully reassemble. You won't be able to use the warranty but you haven't bricked it.

YES! Take a look at lensrentals.com. They've got two models from X-Rite and one from ColorMunki.

EVF has made some critical, game-changing strides since its inception. I wouldn't be so quick to call OVF obsolete, though. Not only is it still usable, but it is superior in both resolution and dynamic range since it's limited only the capabilities of your lens and eyes. Neither of those aspects is the be-all, end-all and there are some great arguments to be made for why EVF is the way to go. We're at the point where it's a matter of the photographer's preference, and I think that's a great place to be.

Just get a used 80D and a 24-70. Once you've learned the basics of photography and video you'll have a better idea of what you're looking for in a camera.

It really depends on whether or not you'd like to keep the 30" monitor on its original stand. I'd start with a pole mount and two monitor arms for your two 24" monitors. You can center the mount on your desk and have both "upper" monitors articulate out from that. Place the 30" on the desk and you're good to go. If you do end up deciding to add the 30" to the pole system, you can just buy a third articulating arm and add it on after the fact. Just make sure the system you go with is rated for the kind of weight you intend to place on it.

Just to contribute to this: no matter what camera you end up deciding to buy, adding lighting will be more impactful. It will be worth your budget to pick up a few compact LED lights that you can use to spotlight some of the action. It's not going to be some giant lamp with day-from-night capabilities, but if you can even get a backlight to help your viewers pick out the silhouette of the rider while they're doing their tricks, it'll make your videos alot better than 1 more f-stop on a lens will.

Decent Price, Good color repro, high refresh. Pick two lol You might look at the PG27UQ. That's about as good as it's going to get at the moment.

Displayport MST hub would be the closest thing that exists, but I'm not sure what it really buys you. Unless you have some sort of limitation that prevents you from running multiple cables, discrete cables is the way to go.

Can you describe the issue in more detail? There's not enough information to go on here, I don't see an immediate issue other than the double shadows you've got going on.

Best you could do is buy another identical monitor with some other sort of issue with an intact screen and do the swap yourself. Asus doesn't offer the screen as a replacement part. No, you can't remove the GSync module.

I don't think the BMPCC6K is what you need at this time, given your experience and camera budget. I believe you would be better served by a pro DSLR/mirrorless body with a good lens. Basic price breakdown: BMPCC6K - 2500US Tilta Cage - 460US Follow focus system - 500-1000US 50mm Canon Cine Prime - 3950US 850 Pro SSD - 460US per We're already at 8000US without a tripod, alternate lenses, extra batteries, external recorder, mounts, or any audio equipment. I applaud your ambition and appreciation for the big-budget look, but you will be better able to exercise your creativity with equipment you can use and afford.

There have been at least 3 different cameras mentioned during the course of this thread. 1) Which camera are you talking about buying? 2) What scenes are you filming? What's your set like? What's the lighting like? 3) What is your budget? Can you afford to buy multiple lenses? Do you have an upgrade path in mind?

Rather than immediately jumping in solo and trying to land a client, I would make the recommendation that you first look for work for another photographer or company as a second shooter/assistant covering one of their events. You'll get a clearer picture of what you need to be looking for, and you'll have an inside view of how all the photos are handled.

Upping your budget will give you so many better options it's hard to not recommend you do that first. Shovel some driveways or sign up for a few shifts at McDonalds if you have to, but in the end you'll be compromising a lot less on what's available to you and what we can recommend.

I would recommend something like ReelSteady for AfterEffects, that's about as good as you can get on a budget. The best you can do would be a purpose-made head camera harness that properly fits your doggo, companies like Mohoc and GoPro make them. Depending on how your dog moves it still will not give you a perfect image but it's a step in the right direction, the dog's neck will act like a gimbal and cut some of the resonant motion of walking.

Nikon's Z cameras would probably be the on the bottom of the stack of new mirrorless cameras I would recommend, UNLESS she already has a collection of Nikkor lenses and wants to keep using them by adapting them. If this is a brand new camera system that she's buying into, Sony and Canon both already have more developed lens ecosystems and have better AF performance, so those cameras would be ones I would suggest her to take a look at. Just my 2c