PoLoMoTo

Yeah, edited the post since.

You're making an argument with the fallacy that torrenting Windows is actually allowed by the company, and legal. 
Neither of which is true, so you can't really argue your side.

Torrenting is irrelevant you can download it from MS direct, the problem is activating which is a pain in the ass without a legit copy.  For fifteen bucks I'd say its definitely worth it.  I'd also point out that for most people this would be an argument of morals, an argument you can't win.
 
And lets not look at your specs and talk about the insignificance of the price of windows relative to your build....

It actually is, sometimes it installs the new drivers and some times it doesn't, from my installs it was about fifty fifty.

Ok, maybe I'll downgrade to 7 to run the stress, depending on if my Windows 10 install is really ruined or not.  And actually I'm pretty sure stock voltage is 1v, 1.2v was definitely very low but from my recollection it was pretty stable, I put it back at 1.35v when I installed windows 10

Then I guess the other guys are right, worth a try though I suppose.

Not as far as I can tell, I'll do some searching though.  And nah its not me, its a decently common issue from what I've read.

I don't know about the pricing as to which would actually be a better deal but yes you can buy a windows 7 key now and upgrade, you can for the next 362 days.  Remember though you need to upgrade to Windows 10 before you do a clean install.  EDIT: According to a Microsoft tech I spoke with you are not able to clean install even after upgrading, although I have done it has it has worked at least once.

As always, go for brands you trust.
 
Although, you could probably go to your local plumbing store and find a bag of high quality o-rings and they would be fine too.

That should be fine. Don't forget you can buy bags of fresh o-rings from watercooling retailers, just buy a bag along with your next order.

Yes, but bear in mind you get better and worse quality o-rings, I actually used the spare Monsoon o-rings for all of my fittings as they are high quality.

I used the pea method for putting the water block on my 290x but just FYI the 290x should have no issues up to 95C.

Hey there, @PoLoMoTo!
 
It really depends on what kind of RAID you have set up. 
If you have a software-based RAID, then I think it's possible to transport between the arrays. For example, Windows will ask you to import them and they should be able to rebuild themselves. 
However, if you are using a motherboard RAID controller, the new controller won't be able to see the RAID created by your old one. You might have a chance since both motherboards are the same brand, but you have to check if they have the same controller as well. If yes, you might be able to re-create the array and read the meta-data. 
Another very brave thing to do is set up the new motherboard and controller with the same settings you used in your old array and hope that it will pick up your configuration.
But before attempting anything whatsoever, I'd advice you to backup your array somewhere else. 
Whenever you are migrating, cloning or whatever kind of transporting data you should always do a back up, because the procedures are very delicate. 
 
Good luck! Hope I helped!
SuperSoph_WD
 

@PoLoMoTo
 
I'm not 100% sure, but it may be locked to your motherboards chipset.
What you can do, is enable RAID on your new PC and see if it detects the RAID array.

yeah I know. I'm just saying that a lot of people might come on here thinking that this is DDR4 RAM because of the subject

They are showcasing the highest capacity available with DDR3 and pointing out that DDR4 will allow for modules up to 128GB.  The module picture is 32GB low-voltage DDR3 1333MHz.

No that does not say that this is DDR4, what they are saying is that the biggest stick of DDR3 is 32GB and that DDR4 will allow a single stick to be up 128GB, either way that is not DDR4 it says so right on the label.

This isn't DDR4, Adata never said it was either...

I can see people buying this. Posting on the forum in the Troubleshooting section asking why their Hyper 212+ won't clear their ram.

They are showcasing the highest capacity available with DDR3 and pointing out that DDR4 will allow for modules up to 128GB.  The module picture is 32GB low-voltage DDR3 1333MHz.

Did we not even make the minimum views?  
 
EDIT: Nope don't think we did...

Did we not even make the minimum views?  
 
EDIT: Nope don't think we did...

Did we not even make the minimum views?  
 
EDIT: Nope don't think we did...