AlveKatt

Everything is stable at 4.0 GHz. Stopped there. Blender is generally more responsive now. I am very happy.

I love being on Linux. Sure, it's always a bit of a hassle now and then, but it's less stressful than my paranoid feeling that my OS calling home to Microsoft every half hour. I like being in control, and being able to customize everything just the way I want it. Also, the new interface features in Windows releases have often been in Linux for a long while. Like windows 10 having multiple desktop workspaces, Linux has had that for many, many years. Since way before I started using Linux which was more than ten years ago.
 
Also, the "lack of games" is a boon for me, it helps me get things done. Of course, this isn't completely true, I still have enough games to keep me distracted... But I have a feeling it would be a lot worse on Windows. There are a lot of indie titles that have official Linux builds, but admittedly very few if you desperately crave that triple a Graphics experience. (Though I just started playing Shadow Warriors, and it most definitely has triple a graphics.) I personally don't see the allure of photo-realism in games, but I am a fan of animation and anime and, maybe because of this special interest, the tricks used to overcome the limitations of a medium and how artistically they manage to do it is way more alluring to me. Also, if you agree with the Review of Angry Joe, the latest gen titles that really has focused on graphics has been kinda of lukewarm. As a 3d-animation and modelling hobbyist I predicted this would happen many years ago. Every time the graphics hardware gets better the workload of the modellers, riggers and animators working on triple a titles get bigger, and with it the part of the budget that needs to go to that department. There were inevitably going to come a time when we passed the threshold and the gameplay and amount of content in triple a titles would start to suffer because of this. It seems to me we just went over that threshold. It's probably going to get better again, when they have created algorithms for auto-weighting and rigging 3d-scanned models and procedural generation gets smarter and more intuitive with architecture and objects, but it's going to be a while.

I asked near exactly the same question, here is the thread, I got a lot of really useful help:

I like ASUS. Everything ASUS I own still works, even my old Laptop that must be more than 15 years old by now.

In the bios, you will need to enter advanced mode (f7 or click the button). Then click AI Tweaker. Under this tab, you have the options to increase/decrease Core ratio, cache ratio, voltages, RAM frequencies, and other settings. You should keep the cache ratio at default or if its set to auto, set it to the default value that appears when you switch it to manual. For core clock, you can increase little by little. Once a core clock becomes unstable, you can increase the voltage by a tiny bit (hundredths of a volt). This will increase heat but it can enable higher core clocks to be stable. For RAM, there may be an XMP profile already there that runs well on your RAM. Overclocking ram is a pretty minor if noticeable at all improvement. Remember to check you temps, and to make sure an OC is stable, run something like prime95 (or some other Linux stress test) for a while, and make sure its not too hot or has serious issues. Have fun!

Oh snap, I forgot you said you were using Linux. My bad. Do as @mrgooglegeek said and go into the Advanced Settings of your BIOS. After that it's all pretty much the same as any other BIOS for overclocking. Just so you know, most Haswell-e chips can hit 4.4-4.6 @ 1.3v relatively easily. I wouldn't go beyond 1.3v for your core voltage, especially on air and for long renders. I'd start around 4.2 or 4.3 and go from there. In the Asus BIOS there's also a 'quick tune' (I forget what it's called) automatic overclocking utility.
 
 
 

Okay so the guides provided apply to all 5820k, 5930k, and 5960x chips.  All you need to do is fine tune from the base information provided.  These are directly from Asus and were based on tons of chips samples that they tested.  
 
This stuff is very accurate and very informative.  Take the time to read through the entire 5960x OC as it covers overclocking CPU, CPU cache, DDR4, and much more.
 
Personally, I think they were very aggressive on their CPU speed/voltage requirements, which is good because you end up with more than you expected.
 
Oh, and they cover the built-in auto overclocking as well, but I've never used it.
 
Enjoy overclocking that x99 beast.  I know I enjoy the hell out of mine!
 
 
5960X OC rev 4.pdf
ASUS X99 Motherboards easy OC.pdf

Best thing to do is create your own spreadsheet as you go.  You only want to go through this once if you can. 
 
You should overclock one thing at a time.  A lot of people waste a lot of time trying to do a fast overclock and end up with at bunch of headaches and an unstable system.
 
Start with CPU only.  Then do CPU cache separately.  Finish it off with memory.
 
Go through all of the CPU multipliers you'd like to use and set voltages for them.  Start a little higher and cut voltage until you get a crash.  I use Cinebench R15 to run really quick tests at each multiplier/voltage.  I just keep dropping voltage until it crashes.  Once it does, I add a small amount back in.   Usually as I'm adding I stay in the .05v increments.  
 
Once it's stable in Cinebench, I move onto long term stability testing.  I'll hit my overclock with a combination of RealBench, AIDA64, and OCCT.  I usually only run each for around a hour.  I've found that running different tests for a hour each is more dependable than running one, say AIDA64 for 12 hours.  
 
Once I've dialed in all of the CPU multipliers that I want to use and have them saved on a spreadsheet, I move on to doing the same thing for CPU cache and then memory.  Keep in mind that when you are testing one aspect of the overclock, you'll want to keep the other two at stock to eliminate them from your voltage troubleshooting.  
 
After everything is said and done, you'll want to tie all of your individual overclocks together.  When doing so, you many have to do some final tweaking to each part's voltage because often times adding them back together will cause increased throughput on one or all of the parts requiring a tad bit more voltage.
 
Lastly, save those overclocks to individual profiles within BIOS so you can switch back and forth to different overclocks as needed.  I have profiles ranging from stock to 5.0 GHz and from 4 to 8 cores.  It really makes setting your rig up for different workloads very easy.
 
Like Oma_Ra Omon_Ra said, be prepared for a long weekend, but it is definitely worth it.  

Damn nice design on the painting. Well done.
 
A question about the case, I also bought a Fractal r5 only without the window, and I am very pleased with how silent it is. Doesn't the window make it less sound proof?

It looks like a vagina, maybe the computer is horny for you? You obviously got it wet.

Does Windows 10 have any sort of interface that allows you to check the input values on each input port separately? It could be as easy as the volume having been set to lowest for that specific audio port.

Blender has official add-ons for making it easier to prepare a model for 3d-printing. You just have to activate them in the user preferences.
 
As a long time Blender user I would urge you to try again, there are a ton of tutorials on youtube both for absolute beginners and more specific tasks. If the node system seems daunting, don't worry, it's only used for rendering and things affecting rendering, so you will never need to touch it when making models for 3d-printing.

I think you need to start dating  

Well, it could be a bunch of reasons.
 
Did the keyboard and mouse work fine during the installation of the OS?
If so, I would try reinstalling the OS. Probably some files did not installed correctly.
Something like sudo apt-get update and sudo apt-get upgrade could also correct the problem (although I think the chance is low).
 
But if the mouse and keyboard did not work during installation, then they are probably not supported. 
 
Other possible (likely) problems:
- Some mouse/keyboards don't work very well with USB hubs. If you're using one, try to remove it and use the keyboard/mouse without the USB hub.
- It could be a USB driver problem. It can easily happen if your mouse and keyboard are connected to a USB 3.0. Install the proper drive for your motherboard and it should work fine. To do that, you can connect your mouse/keyboard on a USB 2.0 (yeah, I think that is the only reason usb 2.0 are still a thing. Drivers that do not install correctly). 

Thank you for that awesome answer.
 
Where are all the OLED displays though? The only ones I can find are either huuuge TVs I wouldn't want on my desk as a computer screen or extremely expensive special purpose displays with special pro features that is probably what make them so expensive.
 
I remember OLED TVs were annouced at pretty much the same time as LED TVs, I even remember seeing a working demo example in a news broadcast reporting about this new technology.
 
What happened? Have they been holding back OLED just to get to sell extra units of the LED based, inferior, technology? Everywhere I look they say it is cheaper to manufacture, has better and sharper images, faster colour to colour change than LCD can have, and to boot, draws less power. I mean, either there has been some serious problems not mentioned with, or exaggerations about, this technology, or there is some fishy marketing scam going on to make us buy first LCD, then LED LCD, and then ones everyone already own LED TVs and monitors, introduce OLED.
 
I have a nine year old 24 inch ASUS LCD that is really good still. It feels like I should stick with it until OLED displays become available. Would love your thoughts on that however. I am really drooling over those curved screens with 21:9 aspect ratio. I think a 29 inch would have the same height as my 24 inch 16:9, at least according to the measurements listed on the webstores. (Any higher and I can't just raise my eyes and look at the trees outside my window, I kind of need that for my sanity.)
 
So should I wait for a 29 inch 21:9 OLED to become available regardless the time it takes? Or is there a problem that makes it smarter to go with a LED screen and skip the first generation of OLED displays?

Not at all  When you're talking about displays they're totally different, they just both happen to involve light-emitting diodes, but how the diodes are used in each type of display is totally different, it's not like OLED displays are just the same thing as "LED" displays, except swapping out the LEDs for a different type.
 
LED displays do not actually exist, it's just a variation of LCD technology. An LCD panel is like a transparent window, divided into tiny red/green/blue segments, with liquid crystals for each segment that control whether light passes through that segment or not. By controlling the amount of light passing through each colored segment you can control the "brightness" of it, and thus combine red green and blue at different brightnesses to create any color. But like I said, LCD panels are just basically transparent glass, they don't produce light. They can only block or allow light from some other source to pass through. So, LCD displays use an LCD panel in combination with a light source behind the panel. Originally they used fluorescent lamps, modern LCDs use LED strips with a few dozen LEDs on them to generate light. "LED" displays only use LEDs as a light source, not to form the image.
 
With OLEDs, you are correct they're "just" another type of light emitting diode, so they're fairly similar in effect to synthetic LEDs, though they have some properties that make them more suitable for different applications. OLED displays are not like "LED" displays (LED-backlit LCD displays) though. In OLED displays, the LEDs are not just used to provide light, but to form the image as well. Every red green and blue subpixel is an individual LED, so each pixel lights up directly and generates its own light. The image is formed by the LEDs themselves.
 
This design has a lot of advantages. In an LED-backlit LCD display, a central light source provides light for every pixel on the display, so the light cannot be lit up for some pixels and darkened for others; the light is on all the time, and it's up to the LCD panel to block the light from passing through any pixel that is supposed to be black. However, LCD panels cannot completely block the light, so even on a pure black screen, some of the light leaks through, which is why even on a black screen in a dark room you can still see a glowing rectangle where the screen is. Since LCDs can't display black they have inherently poor contrast, and there's the possibility of manufacturing defects causing uneven backlight bleed as well.
 
On OLED displays, each pixel provides its own light, so if a pixel is supposed to be black it can simply turn off. An OLED display showing a black image in a dark room would be invisible; it's indistinguishable from the display being powered off. OLED displays have inherently infinite contrast ratio and perfect uniformity. They also have very low motion blur since LEDs can change brightness instantly, whereas with an LCD it takes some time for the liquid crystals to shift positions when it needs to change from blocking light to letting light pass.
 
In terms of the difference between LEDs and OLEDs themselves, OLEDs have a simpler design which makes them feasible to scale down to smaller sizes. The density required for having an LED for every subpixel is not really possible with synthetic LEDs. OLEDs also produce a different quality of light, they are a surface light source, whereas synthetic LEDs are a point light source. This means that light emitted by OLEDs is softer and more diffuse, and you can look directly at an OLED light without being dazzled.

I hope you didn't forget to feed it. What did its mother say when you told her you had to adopt her kid because it was stuck to your laptop?

okay first off yes i have tried that and its fine and second off. i think we should make this a thing. someone needs to manufacture disk drive like cup holders for desktops that look like disk drives but function like a really good cup holder and reinforce it and everything. i would totally get one

DDR-2666 CL 15 is better than DDR-2400 CL 15. One will often find pricing anomalies like this. I put them down to stock adjusting. 20 Euros more than the 2133 is a good deal.

It seems Blender uses Single precision. Sorry for wasting your time, but it's a lot to take in right now. Some threads I read say that complex scenes can eat up those 12 gigabytes of memory pretty fast. The question I need to consider is if I as a single creator could do such complex scenes. I'm frankly not sure I am that good. Getting the titan X might be a way of future proofing if I ever find myself working with a team of hobbyists like myself. Getting the 980ti might mean I could put what I save against getting one of those awesome bent screens with G-sync and a lot wider workspace, that would be a boon with the way Blenders interface works, well, still would need to save a couple of thousand SEK more, but still.
 
Argh, decision angst! Would love your further input, but the next reply from me might be a while. I should really distract myself for a while, let the subconsious mull it over. I need a break, or I will break. Thank you!

It is made for market segentation to maximize margin. But also there are GPGPU applications that just need a lot of VRAM. But they are rare.
 
When representing frictional numbers binary you have to approximate them. You can do it "normaly" ( float, normal precision, 7 digit, SP) or with a better accuracy ( double, double precision, 15 digit, DP). For graphical stuff, SP is enougth as your eye can see the difference. For most compute stuff that's also true. But sometimes you like to ran long high precise calculation and you don't get awa with SP.
 
Do your research, it's important if your applications use SP or DP.

Maxwell in gneral is terrible at DP compute. The Titan Black was better at DP than the 7xx series, but the Titan X is not compared to 9xx.
Also all GPUs can do DP, but some at 1/2 the SP speed and others like the Titan X at 1/64.
 
 

I sold a similar system last year. Same processor, 2 GB of ram, upgraded cooler (that CPU does get hot easily), decent PSU, HD6850, random HD and a Zalman case. I asked £60 (currently ~700SEK) which I thought was on the low side, but it was to a work colleague's son who has zero cash and I needed to get it out of the house to stop myself from using it as a heater.
 
Assuming it will be advertised locally somehow, you can just aim a little high, as long as it isn't stupidly high. Offers will tend to be much lower anyway.

Yes it does work.  However on that particular board, (X99a) the M.2 SSD can only use the Pcie 3.0 interface.  There exists m.2 ssds that use the sata interface and/or pcie lanes.  ]On that board, using the m.2 slot disables the bottom most pcie 3.0 x 16 slot.

I you prefer asus products, get the asus mobo!
 
I just wanted you to know about the long boottimings pre purchase, else you could be a bit disappointed wiuth your mobo. I mentioned the msi mobo because my standard hardware review site has it rated as a bestbuy motherboard over the asus, but both seem fine mobo's to me. Nice system, i envy you advocadocat!