Evanair

Apple could... ya know... sell a version without magnets? Make buttons bigger, etc... market it as something for older people or those with medical conditions. Pair it with a non-magnetic iWatch and preload a ton of medical and health related stuff. Bypass Screen options for medical personnel to see medical records, etc.

Yeah this doesn't work. "Starter Ink" comes in the box, it only has about 5% of the ink a full set does. You are almost required to buy both a printer and a full ink set.

With the Rise of Ryzen in the market, one of the selling points (and one of the reasons I purchased a 1800x on launch day with a x370 motherboard) was the future planning for the AM4 socket. Unlike chips of the past, I "shouldn't" need to upgrade my Motherboard to replace my CPU. With 4 generations of Ryzen out there, and some x370 boards even working with 5000 series chips, I feel it's time to put this promise to the test. Sure, we lose out on things like PCIe 4.0 and other features, but do these matter? (really, it's a question). Does a does the promised percentages work on older motherboards? Will running a 5000 gen CPU on a launch day mobo even work, and if it does, does it still deliver on the performance or does it take a massive hit? While a lot of manufactures might want us to upgrade every cycle, is it even necessary?

I've been running into my bandwidth cap within a week of the 1st of the month since going remote. The upload is killing me. I'd much rather have slower speed and not have to worry about getting billed an extra few hundred dollars a month for internet. 1TB of data goes quick when you're uploading files for work, last month I transferred 15.6 TB, the month before that was 12. At $10 per 10GB over TB, that adds up FAST. Also, Comcast will not offer me the "unlimited" $50 dollars cap thing.

Looking for some guidance. As it's not an issue when using software where I can dump the left channel and mix over sound into both, I haven't had to fix this issue before. Now I have to. Windows detects my Mic (standard 3.5mm jack) as a stereo jack. On a normal headset, this works fine. The issue I have is when connecting an XLR to 3.5mm adapter, the left channel becomes static, and the rights is perfectly clear. What I'd prefer to do is just set the audio driver to mono and be done with it, but windows doesn't let me do that. Any advice?

1st one is a Grayscale scan, the other is set to black/white. That's the difference.

Can we get a part two... Water cooling the Red Phone?

I am really surprised during the remodel that all the floors didn't get covered in anti-static gym foam mats to keep the equipment somewhat safe from Linus.

Having worked there for a few years a decade ago, I can say without a doubt it was their business practices and stocking nothing but garbage quality, high GP merchandise that killed them. People didn't trust their sales guys because they chased quotas and commission rather than what the customer really needed. I'm personally happy they closed. While it does strike a blow at consumers able to shop locally and see products, most of their merchandise was overpriced garbage. Being part of the hiring process for 3 departments, It was the goal of management to hire salesman with no knowledge and "train" later (aka never) on products. The difference between a SATA drive and an IDE drive, between DDR2 and 3 and whatever speed it needed to be was never about what was compatible or useful, but about how much commission was on each sale. Good riddance to a horrible business model.

Well, My P52 is on the list, but really haven't had any issues with it. Tho it could be because I only use it to swap between headphones on my Pixel and my laptop when working. This DOES remind me of the HP wireless problem from 2007-9 where it "could" be a driver issue, or a card issue, or require replacing the entire motherboard under warranty. So many laptops to take apart. Usually we just replaced the Motherboard to make it quicker - All because of a wireless issue.

I've read about this, but haven't read if there is an option to uninstall or redo the search engine change. Honestly, it wouldn't surprise me if once you install it, it's non-removable/changable because of some EULA with MS Office.

Go to Amazon and type in color laser printer you'll see. Ink always drys out. Toner doesn't. Almost all inkjet printers are color these days.

If you want under 100 you're going with ink. If you want a color laser, you're looking at 200+. More if you want a multi function unit. With that amount of printing, and for that cost, just go buy the cheapest pos printer you can find at an office supply store. It'll do the job and be easy to replace later on. Just check the ink costs for the brands before buying

Quite a bit wrong in this post. First paragraph was true for old Laser printers because a color print would have to go through 4 different passes of the system to get a single print (CMYK). New "laser" printers are all LED based and do this with one pass. It also never was an issue on a black and white printer. The papers just get routed back under the print system and refead into the loop, upside down, where they entered from the paper tray. Secondly, line or evently spaced dot can from from anything that's moving. If it's a copy, it can be from debree (or a dot) on the glass. But if it's also a print, then it can be either a nick in the drum(s) OR fuser (both will cause evenly spaced dots in n the page). A line can also from from either, as it's a complete mark all the way around the drum or fuser. As for sharking the toner cartridge (or banging) that works with a print that looks like it's out of ink (toner) and it just loosens it up and spreads it evenly to give more life to the cartridge

It's not something you can clean. Both items that would need to be "cleaned" are sensitive. Both cannot be touched and one cannot be exposed to light for very long. as an example: Fuser: https://www.quikshiptoner.com/catalog/samsung-scx-4600-fuser-unit-110-120v $105 Toner: https://www.staples.com/Samsung-Black-Toner-Cartridge-MLT-D105L-High-Yield/product_817096 $80 New Printer: https://www.staples.com/Brother-HL-L2320D-Monochrome-Laser-Printer/product_1074269 $90

You're good. Remember, you're only as good as your weakest link in this situation. That it's the cable that came with the system is where you want that to be.

I honestly don't remember what I did to fix this issue, but I had it on my board before. It was something with the cab file and the size of the USB stick I was using. An older one worked where a new one didn't. I do remember it being a pain in the ass though.

Looks like a fuser or drum issue. On a color printer you could tell by printing a CYMK test page and see if it's a drum or fuser, black and white you can't Your model doesn't have a bias transfer adjustment or a few other things you could do for a more professional printer. Usually this thing can happen when you get a paper jam and fail to clear it or you ended up having toner on the imaging drum. If you know how these things work, you can visually espect the drum and fuser and you'll see exactly which item has the imprint on it. You can fix it but you could see which to replace. So here's your options. Change the toner cartridge, as it has the imaging drum built in. If you have a spare lying around, this is a good option. If you don't, move on to the next bit. Just FYI, the fuser costs more than the printer is worth, and more than a replacement black and white printer all together. So you're ready stuck with just replacing the printer. It's not worth investing in a new fuser UNLESS you have spare toners lying around, as you'll just have to throw them away.

We can agree that a single setup isn't a bad thing for the speaker, but that's not Sonos brand nor selling points according to their marketing. They offer a ecosystem as the branding with speakers to support it, not necessarily a speaker to support their ecosystem. It's very similar to how Apple defends their Apple ecosystem as making repairs to their systems turn the systems into PCs and ruin the Apple Ecosystem. It's not about the hardware so much as the software and IP within the platforms. If Google and Amazon had marketed their speakers as such, Sonos would have a good case that they were copying their IP, but they are talking about one off speakers, which isn't Sonos niche USP. This is where Sonos will have to make it's case.

Their two room pro set starts at a grand. Plus their outdoor set which is 500. And their sub is another 600. Yes you could get their basic line, which for that many rooms would cost 600ish again. Their ecosystem is about mixed speakers following you around the house for seamless play, not one off speakers

Is it bad that I read this and my first thought was... "Who the hell still uses dialup" Yeah it clicked a second later but still...

You've never quite heard of Apple have you? As for these devices... To get started with Sonos you need to spend about a Grand to take advantage of any of their stuff. With Google and Amazon, it's about 100. Sonos priced a luxury item. They should expect luxury sales. Or in this case less when I really don't see the ROI even though I can afford to deck out my entire house in these things, I don't see the point.

LTT has always had the worst audio quality. I have no idea why, but it's never good.

Buying used PC parts is the worst idea possible. They rarely work and you can't return them. Watch Scrapyard wars for how much stuff they buy and end up having non functional or have random errors.

Try turning the ram speed down to 3000 or slower. I had this issue when running premiere and AE when I clocked up my ram. Ran find in games, but not in Adobe.