Aniallation

Compared to your old system you'll see maybe 100W more total draw under load, if that Under realistic load scenarios you'd be hard pressed to be drawing 300 total system watts. If it's been going fine till now and still is, I wouldn't change it.

If it's NTFS formatted, Windows will usually allow you to just install onto it anyways and not erase any data, as long as there's enough free space. If it's formatted to Mac file system or APFS or whatever though you can't, you'll need to back up your data first, then format to NTFS (or have the Windows install do it for you). But as a boot drive.... SSDs are cheap

Yeah, I'd need two, and where I am an F14 is $13 while a A14 PWM is $32. Ouch

There's different displays that can be optioned on the same model family (G14), but usually there will be a suffix or variation in the specific model of the unit that denotes the specific feature set like G14SA, G14SB, etc (just an example, I don't know what they actually are). Like how the same car can be offered with a number of different engines on the same model or even on the same trim level.

Oh hey, it's Sarah (I don't actually play any of the games, just a fan of Ashly Burch haha) But yeah, I've been very happy with F12s and P12s in the past. They're not flashy or fancy by any means but they do the job done well and are such a good value. I need some 140s for my other PC and was thinking of trying out Noctua for the first time but I'm still very tempted to just get F14s instead.

I agree with Surface laptops not being particularly the best you can get for the price, especially since the whole form factor schtick of Surface is gone in the laptop. I have an Acer Swift 3 and it has been by far the best overall laptop I've owned especially after considering the value. They're releasing a new one soon with Ryzen 4000 series chip - I'd definitely check it out.

How long have you owned it, and what were you running on it before? It's not what I'd call great, but not what I'd just toss in the trash immediately either. I assume you're not running your rig full-tilt 24/7 so I don't see why it can't handle a 3700X and 5700XT,

As others have mentioned, MSI Afterburner or EVGA Precision. Simply turn off the "auto" option next to the fan speed, set whatever fan speed you'd like, then click apply. They also allow you to set custom fan curves to your liking.

I went into Memory Express looking for a can of compressed air and an SSD the other day and saw that they had a new Arctic cooler that seems to replace the Freezer 7 Pro. It was cheap enough ($25 Canadian dollars) and I thought it looked really pretty so I thought I'd buy it for my other PC that's kicking in the house. The cooler uses a 92mm fan so it is quite short and should fit in pretty much all tower cases without needing to worry about height restrictions. It uses the standard AMD 2-clips design to attach using the standard brackets that come with the boards, so it is compatible with everything from AM2 all the way up to AM4 on the AMD side, and includes a bracket to adapt an Intel board to this design from 775 up to supposedly the newest 1200 according to the manufacturer. The PC in question is an FX-6300 system that had been using the much denser and heatpiped AMD stock cooler from an 8320 (the 6300 stock cooler went in the trash as soon as I opened the box, as that thing belongs on an Athlon X2). It was enough for me to have overclocked it to the 6300's normal boost clock of 4.1GHz on all cores and still maintain acceptable temperatures under load - 59-60c in IBT viewed via HWMonitor. However, as the stock AMD fan ramps up to over 5000rpm under full load, it really is the leaf blower that everyone stereotypes it to be. With the Freezer 7X installed, load temperatures dropped drastically enough that I was able to get the chip to 4.4GHz @ 1.4V (would not POST at any higher frequency, regardless of voltage or if I used fsb) and it under the same tests, it was still only sitting at 52-53c. On top of that of course, it is MUCH quieter. 100% fan speed sounds like idle on the stock cooler, and idle with the Arctic it is inaudible next to every other fan in the PC. While I was at it, I decided that if I didn't want to start a fire with overclocking on this already sketchy board, I should probably do something about the VRMs. I ordered this pack of assorted heatsinks on Amazon designed to be used with Raspberry Pi for 14 bucks and tacked them onto the VRMs with the pre-applied double sided thermal tape, then rigged up a 40mm fan I had lying around to circulate some air over them as I was no longer using a downdraft cooler. Overall not a bad upgrade to this old rig for less than $40 Canadian dollars, and under load it is much less of an ear sore. I've always been impressed with how well Arctic's products perform especially for the price, after having used a couple different models of their fans, CPU coolers, and GPU coolers. I can definitely give this one a recommend if you're looking for something on a real pressed budget or if height restrictions don't allow for a typically recommended 120mm tower cooler like the Hyper 212 or Gammaxx 400 to fit. It's not exceptionally flashy or built like a tank, but if it can perform this well on an overclocked 125W chip, I don't see why it wouldn't be able to get you some decently admirable performance and OCs on more modern Intel and Ryzen chips that sit in the 65-95W range.

If you're familiar with second-hand market, you could always buy an 6600K/6700K and sell your old CPU.

What is the wheel listed as under device manager? And the game controllers settings window?

If you have only one stick, there is literally zero difference what slot it goes into. It will get read from and written to all the same even with the less than an inch distance difference in electricity crossing a PCB.

I'll miss them too, seems like there's no choice now because "the market says so". Out of all the devices I've owned (see profile lol) many of my favorites have been smartphones with physical keyboards. The top of which being the MyTouch 4G Slide which I still held on to for many years as a daily driver alongside other devices. A while later I was really stoked to get the PRIV when it came out being the only modern device to try and revive the very practical slider form factor but it was just way too big (height+width wise) for my hands and pockets, an issue that I still fight with today as phones continue to get bigger and bigger.

My S6 Edge had a noticeable tinge on the boarder of the edges, but the actual main portion of the screen was fine with white whites.

Live for Speed is a very lightweight and f2p game with reliable wheel support if you just want to see if it works.

Definitely sounds like an unstable OC. Could try bumping to 1.4V, still plenty safe for Ryzen

It wouldn't surprise me if Asphalt 8 and Forza Street don't support wheels, they're just ported mobile games.

Would have had to ram it down really hard to get it to break as well, geez

I did not, I'll give it a try.

I removed the PSU from the PC that I'm currently typing this on and tried it to no avail so it's definitely not a PSU problem. I highly suspected the mobo at first but it seems very odd that the exact same issue would occur with 2 different boards. Wouldn't the boards have to actually power up to give beep codes though? There is no power, no signs of life at all. Fans and PSU do not power up when power button is pressed or power switch leads are jumped.

So I've been trying to put together a PC out of boredom from extra parts I have laying around the house and this one has really left me stumped. The only thing I didn't have was a CPU and motherboard, so my friend gave me his old FX-6300 on an MSI 760GM-P34 (FX) board. After assembling most of the PC I tried to power it on and nothing. No power, no fans spinning, nothing at all. I disconnected everything absolutely necessary and tried with just the CPU + cooler and RAM connected to the board, only 24-pin and 4-pin connected to the PSU and nothing else, still the same. Thought power button on case might be bad, tried manually jumping the header pins, nope. Thought PSU might have gone bad even though it was previously working, but it powers up just when the green wire is grounded. Swapped it out for another known good PSU anyways, still same thing. I know it can't be the single stick of RAM as even with bad RAM or no RAM at all, it should still power up just not POST. Eventually there wasn't really anything else to narrow down so I thought it might be the board itself as I've never actually seen a CPU "go bad" and I was under the impression that even a bad or missing CPU would still result in a similar scenario as bad/no RAM, where you would at least get power but it would never POST. I went out and got another board as there just happened to be someone local selling a decently priced AM3+ mATX board, a Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3, which he claimed was still working and I've actually owned one in the past and was happy with. Still exact same result, just the bare minimum board with CPU and RAM, no signs of life at all. Not sure what else to point a finger at at this point aside from the CPU itself, as I highly doubt I'd get two different boards with the exact same problem twice in a row, but could a bad CPU actually cause this problem?

Yes, that's what the purpose of adaptive sync (GSync/FreeSync) is, to actively match your refresh rate to your frame rate and prevent the screen tearing that occurs when you aren't able to constantly maintain a high enough frame rate to match your monitor's refresh rate (in this case, 144 fps).

Make sure it's clean, free of foreign objects, give it a light shake/rocking back and forth to make sure there's nothing loose or rattling around. As long as that's good, don't see why you shouldn't try to power it on. Chances are, if they're claiming it doesn't work, then you're not the first one to try.

The speed+latency difference between the chipset lanes and CPU lanes isn't as big of a deal as a lot of people make it out to be for some reason. A storage drive will still perform plenty fast even if it has to be running on the chipset.

You'll actually run into a bigger snag before the PSU and that's the fact that not only it it limited to low-profile expansion cards but also only single-slot graphics cards as the x16 slot is on the bottom. The best single-slot low-profile GPU out there is probably the GT1030, which will have no problem running on your PSU, but it won't be a very big step up from the integrated Intel graphics either.