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Hackentosher

Member
  • Content Count

    4,308
  • Joined

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About Hackentosher

  • Title
    Crying over C Code
  • Birthday 2000-03-06

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    D1OMED3S
  • Origin
    D1OMED3S

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Satan's Ass Crack/ASU
  • Interests
    3D printing, Drones, 3D Printing Drones, Drones 3D printing, and why my i5 is running so hot
  • Biography
    FORK 'EM, DEVILS
  • Occupation
    Professional Electrical Engineering Student, Literally paid to play with electronics

System

  • CPU
    4670k 4.4ghz
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte z87x-oc
  • RAM
    16gb Vengance something
  • GPU
    Windforce gtx 970 g1 1513mhz
  • Case
    Phantom 410
  • Storage
    San disk ultra 2 120gb, Hyperx 3k 120gb Segate baracuda 1tb, WD Green 1tb
  • PSU
    CX600m that's about to explode
  • Display(s)
    LG 29WL500-B, Zalman 23" Piece o' crap
  • Cooling
    H80i
  • Keyboard
    Quickfire Rapid (MX Blue)
  • Mouse
    G502
  • Sound
    Kraken pro/Momentum IEM avec a blue snowball
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

43,764 profile views
  1. In short, yes. All the little cube brick thing does is convert your mains electricity in the walls to 5v 1a, as per the USB standard. Almost every USB device strictly complies to the USB standard (sometimes you have to be careful with early USB C connectors, but that's a different discussion). Any USB type A port will provide at least 5v 500ma as that is the standard, but 1a is typical. There are fast charging bricks out there that will list higher voltages on the side of the adapter, but a handshake between the device and the charger needs to be established before the supply turns its voltage above the standard 5v. If a device that does not support the fast charging is connected to one of these supplies, the supply will continue to provide the normal 5v 500-1000ma. In addition, I'm pretty sure the iPhone has overvoltage and overcurrent protection on its input, so even if you managed to shove more than 5v, the protection should catch it.
  2. You could build one with an esp32 and a temperature sensor. I bet you could even find a project documenting how to do it on instructables or GitHub.
  3. Mini rant: I'm a Canon fan, I like the look of their bodies and lenses, they're pretty ergonomic, and the images coming off the sensor look pretty good by default. Now, apparently everyone else thinks so too. I see it on Instagram of those trendy photos where the picture is framed on the back of a Canon body. It's always a Canon 5D iii or iv with a 24-70 L series lens. I see the low end Canon Rebel APS-C bodies all over the place in the hands of people that want a bit more image quality of their kids or vacations or whatever. This is all fine, it's probably just a function of Canon spending more on their marketing than its competitors. But I'm getting a little pissed off. Canon's releases of new bodies has been trash. Sony has been killing the mirrorless game for years while Canon just released their first full frame mirrorless bodies about a year ago and their both disappointing. Hell even the top of the line 1dx iii isn't great, it's a very small improvement over the 1dx ii. If I'm not mistaken, it's the first Canon camera to have two of the same card slots. Most of their bodies have one slot or mismatched slots. 

     

    Now, Nikon and Sony, Canon's main competition, have both been pushing the game for a while now. Nikon's first mirrorless bodies are very impressive, pushing hard against the established Sony with high megapixel counts and compelling features. Sony has not been complacent either with the a7 R iv coming in with what I believe is the highest megapixel count in any full frame camera on the market. They also have some pretty nice glass to back it up. 

     

    Now what sparked this whole rant is I was looking at used lenses because they're better value than buying new. I was looking at the Sigma 50mm art lens for my Canon body and was dismayed at the lenses going for around $500-800. For gits and shiggles, I looked up the Nikon version of the exact same lens to find it was $200-300 less just for a different mount. It's no one's fault, it's just a function of Canon's larger market share increasing demand for quality glass, but it's really fucking annoying. Used Nikon bodies and lenses are cheaper than their equivalent Canon counterparts by a significant amount. This makes Canon a financial hazard, and for what? The pretty red ring on the end of your lens? The feeling of sheepish belonging by being on the same system as everyone else? I think it's time to switch when I outgrow my 6D.

  4. Boys, I have returned to the dark side. I got an iPhone 

    1. DrMacintosh

      DrMacintosh

      What did you get?

    2. Hackentosher

      Hackentosher

      11, nothing too fancy. My Galaxy s8 had had enough abuse.

  5. I'm assuming you need to step the voltage down, so I recommend an LM7805 with a potentiometer. These lil guys are super simple to step a voltage down to another, and the potentiometer would let you dial in the exact voltage you want. Pretty sure EEVBlog has a video showing how to use them, I would have a look. Quick note, the more voltage you want to drop, the more heat it will produce so look into a heatsink you can bolt the chip to.
  6. Ima go with no, an Intel nuc is probably a better option. Nucs should be way more powerful and don't have all the weird hardware bugs the pi4 does. The pi4 also runs hot, so it'll require loud little fans to keep it cool, while most low power Nucs are practically passively cooled.
  7. Search for something on Amazon, there are a lot that come with arduinos. I would Def get one with a microcontroller, that way you have waay more potential beyond the collection of LEDs, passives, and basic active components.
  8. Some of these tools you probably already have around the house, like you could probably get away with the screw drivers you already have in the garage, same with tweezers, and maybe even wire cutters. If you notice, the list I came up with is $22 less than the list you came up with, granted with no actual hardware. Unfortunately, working with electronics can be expensive for the tools, but the parts can be had for literally pennies if you know where to look. Also make sure to quote me next time so I see the reply.
  9. Just remembered this video, hope you find it helpful. hakko side cutters $5 UNI-T UT210E $40 Tweezers, idk, I wouldn't spend more than $10 Screw drivers, the Ifixit ones are fanfuckingtastic. We use them at work, invest in good screw drivers, do not cheap out out screw drivers, $30 for the Mako driver kit I'd see if you can find an old name brand unit, a lot of the ones on amazon are kinda sketch. I'd spend like $50 on that Soldering station, invest in this. It is absolutely worth it, do not get the ones that just plug into the wall. You can spend the money for a Hakko FX88D and it will out live you, but you can spend a little less here. I have a Fakko iron branded from Sparkfun for about $50. Between $50-100 is the right range, but if I were to do it over again, I would absolutely buy the Hakko For $100. Also get an assortment of tips, those can be had for $10 on Amazon. Fine MG Chemical 60/40 solder (do not get lead free, you'll hate your life). A large ish spool will last you a long time for $20. MG Chemical solder wick, I refuse to use any other brand after seeing the light. This stuff has wonderful flux and it is very easy to use. $10 My running total for all of this is $225, but obviously you could spend more and you could spend less. However, this is a very good starting point for general electronics work and I chose a lot of these tools with "buy nice or buy twice" in the back of my mind. It's amazing the difference quality tools makes in your work and quality of life as you work. Don't play yourself, invest in nice tools. Speaking of investing in nice tools, I would strongly recommend doubling or even tripling your budget for your 3D printer. I have seen the cheap ones, and they can work well, but it is worth it to invest in a nicer one as your time becomes ever more valuable. I would strongly recommend looking at the Creality Ender 3 as it just can't be beat for the price. I understand it's about as much as I just suggested you spend on the rest of your tools, but I believe it's worth it. If you can't afford all of this right now, that's okay. I think it may be very valuable to find a local maker/hackerspace as they will probably have a lot of the tools (and often more than what) I just described here readily available. Most makerspaces I've seen are very affordable or donation driven, which would let you get some projects off the ground while you build up your selection of tools. It will also expose you to people that have more experience and can save you a lot of the headaches and learning curve that you would have to go through otherwise.
  10. What do you mean "lab"? Like all the equipment for working on electronics?Or are you referring to just components? As you work on more projects, you'll need more specific parts, but I would invest in good tools. Projects are temporary, good tools last a lifetime. If I were you, I'd invest in a good set of side cutters, pliers, tweezers (I'd get metal and ceramic tweezers, you'll understand if you get into SMD soldering) , screw driver set, soldering station, MG Chemical 60/40 solder, solder wick, a bench power supply, and most importantly, a half decent mtultimeter. For meters, I really can't recommend the UNI-T UT210 series, they're really great. I bring mine with me every day.
  11. I had my first battery fire today! It was so spicy the fire department showed up!

    1. Hackentosher
    2. Ryan_Vickers

      Ryan_Vickers

      leaked footage taken moments before disaster

      ezgif-6-18d44a8376a9.gif

    3. VegetableStu

      VegetableStu

      .... where have i seen this-- OH PERIODIC VIDEOS

       

      EDIT: LOL CUTE

      TIKe5A7l.jpg

  12. This sounds like a fun project, but I don't know how hackable these fans are. Most, like the ones from corsair, have addressable leds within them. That's fine and in a lot of cases ideal, but it makes controlling the leds quite a bit more complicated. If you can find a tear down of one of the rgb fans on the market, this can tell us some very important information. If each led in the fan is controlable via a serial data connection, such as every hobbyist's favorite Ws2812b LED. The next question is where does that serial/control signal come from? In a hobbyist project, these leds would most likely be connected in a continuous strip. If the leds are connected like this directly to the controller, that's super convenient and you can hopefully implement some microcontroller and the fast led or neopixel library to control. Alternatively, the controller could treat each fan as it's own strip of leds. Either way, the controller is talking directly to the fan leds. The other way I could see them being controlled is if each fan has its own microcontroller to handle the luminescent choreography. Then the main controller would talk to the fan microcontroller and give it some instructions. The fan microcontroller would then execute those instructions. I don't think I would do it this way if I was in charge of the electrical team for corsair, Thermaltake, or whoever, because it's more complicated and expensive, but that's another way you could do it. I would hope it's the former control method as that would make hacking a control system for rgb fans much easier. I hope you can find some teardowns or schematics for some rgb fans as that would tell us a lot. Alternatively, you could tape the stock rgb controller to the back of your plywood. Or even more jank, you could buy some clear fans and wrap the edges with rgb strips.
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