Hackentosher

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About Hackentosher

System

  • CPU
    4670k 4.4ghz
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte z87x-oc
  • RAM
    16gb Vengance something
  • GPU
    Windforce gtx 970 g1 1513mhz
  • Case
    Phantom 410
  • Storage
    San disk ultra 2 120gb, Hyperx 3k 120gb Segate baracuda 1tb, WD Green 1tb
  • PSU
    CX600m that's about to explode
  • Display(s)
    Zalman 23" Piece o' crap, 19"~ 1600x900 Acer thang
  • Cooling
    H80i
  • Keyboard
    Quickfire Rapid (MX Blue)
  • Mouse
    G502
  • Sound
    Kraken pro/Momentum IEM avec a blue snowball
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Contact Methods

  • Twitter
    @CollinTheSchire
  • Skype
    Hackentosher
  • XFire
    Crossfire? SLI FTW!!
  • Origin
    D1OMED3S
  • Steam
    D1OMED3S
  • Instagram
    @CollinTheSchire

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Satan's Ass Crack
  • Interests
    3D printing, Drones, 3D Printing Drones, Drones 3D printing, and why my i5 is running so hot
  • Biography
    eh.
  • Occupation
    Professional High School Student Choir Nerd

Recent Profile Visitors

21,692 profile views
  1. Yeah I guess that would work, do you have any molex to 8 pin connectors?
  2. I'm confused on what you're trying to do, also RIP night theme users. ATX power supplies are pretty dumb, as long as they are activated and you don't draw too much power from them, they supply constant clean voltage to all of the connectors. For example, I have a CX430 that I use for drone battery charging. I did this by desoldering all the wires and connectors from the board, then attaching my own wires to the 12v rail. One short between the green wire and ground later, and I have 12v 400W~ to use at my disposal. My point is as long as you can trick the power supply into thinking that it's plugged into a motherboard (the green wire thing) it will supply consistent current across all of the rails. So theoretically you could jump the green wire, plug in the GPU plugs, and run your GPU off a different supply. I'm not sure how you would power two rigs off of one supply because ATX supplies only have one 24pin plug, which you need one per rig. I guess you could make a harness with a female 24pin connector that doubles each wire into two male 24pin connectors, or you could make a PCB that does the same thing with one 24pin in and two 24pin outs. However, I'm not sure how that would work if you wanted to run one machine and not the other. TLDR, just get a second power supply, they're not that expensive.
  3. What does "high res" mean to you? There are printers that can print with layers that are just a handful of microns tall, but I'm sure they cost more than your new build. Your average "high quality/resolution" print is at 0.1mm layers or 100 microns. Most desktop FDM printers can do that, but to go lower than .06mm, you need to go with a laser resin machine like the Form 2.
  4. Well adding another cell would add another 4.2V that goes across the motor coils, which is a pretty significant increase.
  5. That is... strange. My first guess is your receiver is dropping packets, what radio link system are you using and are your RX antennas okay? Also what flight controller? I don't think that's the issue, but... maybe... To comment on the Emax issue, my RS2205 2300s (original, not the S variant) are the strongest motors I've ever used (compared to original Cobra 2204 2300s and Tmotor F40 Pro). My set has lasted for around 9 months and I've only killed 2 in that time. I've had my F40s for about 2 months and killed 2, one of them smoked on the bench (that was the ESC's fault, but the shaft still bent after it popped off).
  6. You might be able to salvage the heated bed part of the Marlin 3D Printer firmware to do just this with an arduino.
  7. rocketry is not my area of expertise. If you want to know the properties of some schmoo, google it.
  8. I'm not sure if anyone mentioned this yet, but nichrome wire. Definitely control the voltage and current carefully or it will get so hot that it will melt itself. This is the wire in toasters.
  9. Amazing work, as always.
  10. whoops, i meant CO2. I typed that on my phone, autocorrect betrayed me once again
  11. Estes motors have a small reverse firing stage in them to blow the chute out. If you can work that into your motor, that would be ideal, otherwise maybe a cow cartridge?
  12. Ya know, hard-line builds look so good, I didn't particularly like soft tubing, but this one looks really really clean. Great work!
  13. True, but it's still dangerous, thus the warning labels.
  14. Okay I exaggerated a bit, but it's still a flammable substance. It's hazardous. Oxygen canisters have explosion warnings on them for a reason.
  15. I'll leave this here, something like this should do nicely http://www.estesrockets.com/rockets/engines/pro-series-ii-motors/009776-g40-7-engine