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BrinkGG

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    BrinkGG #6402
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pacific US
  • Interests
    Music, Gaming, System Building, Streaming, CAD/CAM, Silent PCs, I.T., all things VR
  • Occupation
    CAD Modeling, "sysadmin"/Systems Engineer
  • Member title
    VR nerd, IT Guy, Virtualization specialist

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9 3900XT @ 4.45Ghz
  • Motherboard
    Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS WiFi
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance LPX 4x 8GB 3000MHz
  • GPU
    Msi 3080 Ti Ventus 3x OC
  • Case
    Corsair 760t
  • Storage
    480GB SSD SanDisk, 525GB SSD Crucial, 2TB WD BLUE, 2TB WD RED
  • PSU
    EVGA 650w SuperNOVA
  • Display(s)
    Asus VG248QE (24" 144hz), Dell WFP 3008(@1600p), Vizio M437-g0 (@4k), Oculus Quest 2
  • Cooling
    Cryorig H5 Ultimate
  • Keyboard
    HyperX Alloy FPS Pro TKL (MX BLues)
  • Mouse
    Logitech G603
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD 6xx, AT2020, Scarlett 2i2, Fiio FH5 (Travel)
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Professional
  • Laptop
    Lenovo Flex 5 14" i7-10510u - 16GB DDR4 - 500GB NVMe
  • Phone
    Google Pixel 6
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

4,113 profile views
  1. Hey! Mods forgive me, but I'm going to suggest a link to a different forum as the Truenas community will be better versed to answer this fully. Their forums can be found here: https://www.truenas.com/community/ Truenas permissions are a pain. I recommend starting by making sure your user folder is the owner of the root of the share. Easiest way to do this is setting your user's home directory as the share. So if your pool name is "Vault" and your shares name is "Share", set your home folder to mnt/Vault/Share. If you have SSH set up with your user, you can also SSH into your truenas box as your user, then run "ls -al" to see the permissions of all the objects there to see if you set it correctly. Hopefully this helps, but search the truenas forum if that doesn't resolve it as they have a more definitive guide.
  2. On Windows 10 home, yes. If your computer comes with Windows 10 Pro or Enterprise (or you upgrade to one of them) a lot of the "adware" or bloatware gets removed.
  3. Nah unfortunately there's different levels of that certification. Iirc, there's one that allows any TV with local dimming in.
  4. Hello! Welcome btw, glad you're here First things first, DON'T create a microsoft account if you don't want it connected to Microsoft. Super easy way to do that is during initial setup, just don't connect it to Wifi. If it's preinstalled with windows 11, you'll need this nifty skip: https://bigtechquestion.com/2021/12/04/software/windows/how-can-i-setup-windows-11-to-use-a-local-account-3-ways-to-bypass-a-microsoft-login/ Here are the base tips I have for Windows, moving from mac: Basic stuff: Exe's & MSIs are the new dmgs. Installing stuff from the web is usually fine as long as you trust the source. ShareX is the replacement for screenshooting in windows. Way better then snipping tool. "Alt + Tab" (or Win+ Tab) gives you a menu similar to CMD + Tab in MacOS "Win + D" is similar to the fullscreen app setup in macOS, but not quite the same as they separate taskbars as well. "Win + L" locks your computer, similar to Ctrl + Cmd + Q "Win + Arrow key" will Snap the selected window to different segments of your screen, or move it across screens if you have multiple. (Win = Up will make it full screen, Win + Left will make it a half width window on the left and prompt with all other windows to fill the gap on the right) "Alt + F" opens the file menu, Pressing "S" after this will safe. Things like backups are a lot harder in windows then mac. The only way to get a Time Machine-esque backup is to set up a program like Veeam's windows agent with a Hybrid Image backup of your boot disk. Yes windows built in backup exists, it's not great, but it will back up individual files to a different disk if that's what you're looking for. Last tip, you can install all of your base programs using https://ninite.com/ It's a multi-program packaged downloader that is always my first stop for setting new computers up. My usual list of programs is as follows: Chrome Firefox Discord Notepad++ PuTTY VLC Spotify HandBrake WinAmp ImgBurn Gimp ShareX 7Zip Steam Everything (yes it's a program called Everything) That's all I can think of before bed. Feel free to quote my message and ask me questions as I had a 2010 Mac Mini, 2012 MBP 13", 2015 MBPr 15", then switched to windows. I also work in IT so I deal with a lot of the annoying things that windows does for you "to help" that is absolutely useless. Also about the 2TB drive, you can shrink the windows volume at any time in Disk Management to add a second partition, so don't worry about the second partition right away.
  5. Dude I didn't' even see the GPU there until you mentioned it... Adjusting my post.
  6. Hey! What GPU are you using? Likely the HDMI port or the cable doesn't support high refresh rates. DVI-D (the one with all the primary pins ) and Displayport both should support it. EDIT: @WoodenMarkerCalled it, GTX 460 doesn't support 144Hz over HDMI. You need either a DVI Dual Link cable or (if your card has it) a displayport cable. Check the Nvidia control panel. Should see a dropdown like this Also, make sure you scroll down past the "Ultra HD, HD, SD" options down to where it says PC. Some monitors have really weird EDID profiles that don't let you run high refresh rates on the "Ultra HD, HD, SD" options, even though the resolutions are the same.
  7. They're from when I booted after using windows' built in audio troubleshooter. Uptime lines up almost perfectly. EDIT sorry quoting
  8. Also, strange update, devices are detected in Device manager, and show they are working properly, but have a "Device not configured" error in their events tab. Every device has a similar error, just with different device codes.
  9. Media creation tool. Was concerned about the install being dead and didn't want to use a possibly bad recovery mode, so downloaded MCT.
  10. Yeah I've tried reinstalling the drivers. The irony is, Focusrite can see it too:
  11. Relevant hardware: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 (Gen2) Asus Tuf X570 Pro Ryzen 9 3900XT Hey all, Puzzling one here: Audio was working normally, restarted to get rid of the update nagging. Update failed. Rebooted, noticed windows had a weird mute icon. It wasn't a mute icon. (Ignore the lack of a network connection, unrelated DNS issue) Windows now thinks that I don't have any audio devices. Sound > Playback shows nothing: Windows 10 settings menu also shows nothing: BUT IN DEVICE MANAGER THEY ARE THERE AND CLAIM TO BE WORKING NORMALLY???? What I have tried: Windows in place upgrade Windows audio troubleshooting tool Reverting the windows update Disabling every audio device, re-enabling Uninstalling every audio device, restarting. Anyone have any ideas?
  12. First check the Users tab of Task manager, to make sure there's no remote access causing issues. (Small chance but easy to check) You should only see your user account or the accounts that you intentionally have logged in. Instead of opening up task manager, check resource monitor's CPU tab. (open from windows menu) See if that gives you a more accurate representation of what's going on.
  13. Not gonna lie, I don't trust the Tool-less ones. If I find them in place at an office or similar, I either replace them with double-female keystones or traditional punchdown ones. *EDIT* I just saw that this was the problem Glad we could help and welcome to the forum!!
  14. Hey! So you're correct in your assumption that it shouldn't be a crossover connection. You want straight through of T568-B to B, which you have done correctly. The thing I would be asking first would be about the keystone jack in the office. Usually punchdown tools cut the cable ends off so the cap fits over them without bare wire sticking out, but it looks like you've got a lot left over. So I'd make sure the tool pushed the wires down far enough that the keystone slots cut through the plastic around the actual copper. What device are you using to check connectivity since you don't have the cable tester yet?
  15. Curry's is a real site, and apparently they have 3080s in store.
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