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Captain Chaos

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Posts posted by Captain Chaos

  1. hmm ... might be software indeed then. 


    As I said, I'd put the latest TWRP recovery and the new ROM on the SD card, wipe the entire internal memory (Dalvik, cache, data, internal storage, and system), then flash the recovery and ROM (and Google apps package if needed).  Then again I'm a madman when it comes to these things. 


    "Swipe to wipe" is going to be interesting though if the touch input is all messed up.  You may have to download a stock Samsung ROM (including recovery) and use Odin on the PC to flash it onto the phone. 

  2. Not that I know of.  I'm not aware of any custom ROM that does this either. 


    Does it only do this while in the recovery or also once the phone boots into the OS? 

    If it happens in the OS as well, personally I'd put the latest recovery and ROM on the microSD card, wipe the entire phone (Dalvik, cache, data, internal storage, and system) and flash the latest recovery and ROM (last bit is very important, seeing as wiping the system removes the ROM entirely). 

    Doing this full wipe and reflash will either fix the problem or rule out software problems altogether.  If it still misbehaves after a full wipe and flash, it's most likely a hardware issue.

  3. Never ever ever ever open up a PSU yourself.  If there's any issue with it, send it back to the manufacturer.

    The capacitors inside a PSU can hold lethal voltages even months after unplugging them. 


    We had a member here last summer who ended up in hospital after touching the inside of his PSU.  Not sure if he went into cardiac arrest, but the need for a defibrillator sure points in that direction. 

    He made a thread about the whole thing.



  4. 1 hour ago, TetraSky said:

    So... did they "fix" this issue?

    No, but they admit it was their mistake and they're sorry.  They will work hard to make sure it doesn't happen again.


    In all seriousness, they're probably too busy preparing their PR response for the next scandal.  Like a second Cambridge Analytica incident. 

  5. 12 minutes ago, Delicieuxz said:

    I don't have anything positive to say about EGS' thuggish anti-competitive and consumer-spiting practice of buying out the distribution rights.


    Tim Sweeney is following the worn path of psychopathic CEOs who cause enormous damage to their environments for short-term gain. I think he doesn't have the mind of a reasoning adult and that he clearly doesn't understand the ramifications of what he's doing. He's like a toddler with a loaded gun who doesn't understand anything about the danger of playing with it.

    This, so much this.


    I'm all for rewarding devs for their work, but whoever does business with EGS will not see a single cent from me.  I'll just pirate their games instead of buying them and won't feel bad about it at all. 

  6. 20 minutes ago, ProtoflareX said:

    Interesting, there are just too many variables for the answer to be cut and dried, huh?



    Personally I'd go for the 200mm, use the PC for a week or so and then see if lowering the RPM of the top fan helps.  Or maybe I'd even put some duct tape over the section that sticks out in front of the CPU cooler and see if that helps.  If it works, I'd make a block-off plate that I could screw onto the fan. 


    Kinda like this (albeit in plastic or alu instead of paper like my mockup).




  7. Just now, ProtoflareX said:

    If I understood what you said correctly, the only advantage of the 200mm would be its ability to move more air at a lower RPM, which translates to moving more air at a lower volume. However, the 140mm fan in the back would have the benefit of not stealing any air from the heatsink fan with the only con being noise. Is that correct?

    The 140, when mounted near the back of the top would "steal" less air indeed.  So you'll have cooler air going over the VRMs and potentially a higher air pressure in front of the CPU cooler which translates to slightly better cooling.

    However it is possible that all that benefit is offset because the 140mm will move less air out of the case and because there will be more air from the GPU making its way to the front of the CPU cooler, meaning that the cooler will suck in hotter air. 


    Unfortunately there's only one way to really find out what the optimal setup for your case is, and that is to try it with a 140mm as well as a 200mm.  But is it worth it to buy the extra hardware and spend all that time building and testing only to get what will most likely be a 1-3°C difference?

  8. Okay, here's a quick and dirty sketch of what your airflow will probably look like with the 200mm.




    Air gets sucked in through the front 200mm fans.  Some of the air is sucked straight out by the 200mm in the top, the rest goes to the CPU cooler and GPU cooler. 


    Once air passes through the CPU cooler, it'll go straight to the rear fan.


    The air from the bottom 200mm intake will mostly go to the area below the GPU.  Once it passes through the GPU, it will radiate upwards and be sucked out by the 200mm in top and the 140mm in the rear.  Note that most of this hot air from the GPU goes over and under the CPU cooler, not through it.  A small amount will enter the CPU cooler indeed, but that cooler has its own airflow going on thanks to its fan, so the air from the GPU that enters the CPU cooler will be blown towards the rear straight away.  


    The big question is if the pattern will be better with a 140mm at the back. 

    Personally I don't think so.  In terms of position it will be better, but the 200mm simply moves a lot more air at a low RPM than a 140mm would.  That more than makes up for the bit of air (the top 2 blue lines)that gets lost.


    All in all, my advice would be to not overthink it.  Regardless of what setup you choose, you won't run any risk of overheating things due to bad airflow. 

    You can always mess around with fan curves once you have the PC up and running.  Perhaps lowering or raising the RPM of the top fan compared to the rear one can drop the temperature by a couple of degrees. 

  9. 4 minutes ago, ProtoflareX said:

    So the top exhaust fan in that case actually has a negative effect on cooling?

    It's kinda hard to predict.  On the one hand there is some leakage if the fan (or part thereof) is in front of the cooler (which is the case with the Amazon picture), on the other hand the fan will pull out hot air so the overall effect may very well be a lower overall temperature. 

    Ideally you'd move the top fan as far as possible to the back, but I'm not sure about the mounting options of that case.


    Give me 20 minutes, need to run to the store real quick before it closes, but I'll draw a sketch of it as soon as I get back. 

  10. 16 hours ago, Carz728 said:

    Not planning to make a profit just want to try building computers for practice

    You can practice on your own computer.  Take it completely apart and build it again, work on your cable management until it is really clean, measure how long it takes you from start to finish and try to improve on that, etc etc. 


    As for building and then selling, that's a good way to waste money.  Instead build or overhaul PCs for family and friends and let them recommend you to others.  Don't expect to turn it into a business though, you'll be lucky if you can turn it into a hobby.

  11. About a dozen Samsung SSDs in use here, of varying ages and models (from 840 EVO to 960 PRO).  I have yet to see one fail. 

    I've also been running a pair of Crucial MX200s in my NAS for 3 years now and they haven't given me any issues either. 


    Stick to reputable brands and you have to be really unlucky to have any issues.

  12. 20 hours ago, BlockArchitech said:

    What happened to floppy disks? I mean, If were using them for freaking missiles, we can use them for newer pc's.

    Sure, we CAN use them still.  However it's not practical.




    I was pretty pissed when I found out that disk 1812 was unreadable.