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Looking at brightening my setup, figured an RGB mouse pad would work nicely. I'm currently using SignalRGB as my sync software, and I really enjoy it. I was looking at some of their supported mouse pads, and was somewhat disheartened. I don't want a $100 mouse pad! The Razer stuff is really cool, but a lot of the cost comes from the logo and the Synapse stuff. I don't need that. So I was wondering if there was some sub-$50 stuff, or a way to sync a non-compatible pad via another compatible device. PS. Would also like to know about monitor backlighting! Same story.

The title should be "I Ruined His Car While He Was On Vacation".

Why? Are you've just pointed out, if I'm going to refuse to buy EK, there's virtually nothing in the world that is okay to buy, so offing myself is the best choice.

"just" a vpn is useless for privacy purposes, but if you intend to surf the high seas anonymously, a VPN is part of the complete solution. in other news, wearing seatbelts is useless for surviving a crash when you're driving at 200+km/h while blind drunk.

If anyone can complete Numbers CPU tasks in less than 2 hours then they should do it, every point is going to matter a lot. Need the kitchen sink and everything.

I started folding a few days ago and just reached 5 million points! https://stats.foldingathome.org/donor/id/702657804

Impressive what a road-legal car headlight is in Canada. Here in Europe, this thing would have failed inspection because the lenses/housing aren't clear enough/aged. Also modifying the headlights like this is a big no. Even if you had a kit for a specific Honda Civic, you couldn't just use it on a random Civic model. Some of this is pretty silly: Replacing a halogen bulb with an LED that is 'identical' to a halogen bulb still requires the LED manufacturer to test and certify each model separately, meaning that these upgrades are only available for popular car models.

Some things can be had for less, such as motherboard have you got a microcenter nearby? try this PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($365.24 @ MemoryC) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE ARGB 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B650 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard ($169.99 @ B&H) Memory: *Silicon Power Value Gaming 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($87.38 @ Amazon) Storage: *Leven JPS800 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 7900 XTX 24 GB Video Card ($899.99 @ Newegg) Case: Phanteks XT PRO ULTRA ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: MSI MAG A850GL PCIE5 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1821.47 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-05-07 17:24 EDT-0400 If you want justification for the parts changed then sure

Hi everyone! I have an old tablet sitting in drawer, and I was thinking about giving it a second life as a steam deck (not an original stream deck app but working).But I need to upgrade/update android from 4.0 to at least 6.0 +. The device is Prestigio MultiPad 9,7 Pro PMP5097CPRO. Can someone link me up with a tutorial on how to do it? Thank You

But I'm a teen, I'm not trying to get a license for something that I won't be able to upkeep

Actually, that model came out in 2012.

Oh for crying out loud, this "issue" is called out in the RFC as a potential security risk, nobody discovered anything, it's right there plain as day in the standards document!! https://datatracker.ietf.org/doc/html/rfc3442#section-7 The DNS leak is different as far as I can tell and that might be a slight issue but nothing too serious for the average user imo, however for people trying to evade nation states and nefarious entities it definitely would be an issue.

I want it to look fairly good but I'm not SUPER focused on aesthetics I want some rgbs so its not bland though.

how much are you hooked on aesthetics?

Coming down to the wire for Numbers 4th place. Gonna be a close one!

There was signs of my power supply dying before this too. Should I just go out and buy a new power supply and seeing if it works and returning it if it doesn’t?

Yeah no display is showing anymore. The white light is also gone when booting up.

i dont run my pc 24/7 but i normally keep it on sleep mode

look into some IEMs they might provide better sound at the price range, and no headband. i was in the headphone market myself, i wanna get some high end cans for music. i ended up getting some IEMs. it was a ear sodomizer at first but i got the ear tips dialed in and its good now. but there are still other comfort issues. that headphones don't have. in my search, i realized that when it comes to head phones or IEMs, comfort is the number one priority. you might not realize it at first, but you will soon come to realize, if its not comfortable, you tend not to want to use it. also look into a dac as well that makes a huge difference.

Honestly I haven’t seen 120mm fans peak at 1500rpm. That’s quite slow when you consider 2000rpm is average, even what you’d get on a tight budget. Keep in mind thats peak speed, not sustained. Far as color goes I wouldn’t be so concerned, perhaps if they match your case that’s your best bet? lol sounds obvious but yeah. Depends on ur build overall, white on black? White on white? You get the idea. My brother has an O11 white, with a white motherboard, gpu (pretty sure is white…) some company 3080 rtx, and of course white fans i have seen some builds with a white on black theme too, neat. It should be mentioned you can also get custom PSU cables! Yeah! Instead of the boring black u can get a variety of colors sold individually or in a kit. Heck I’ve seen some that are braided in multiple colors, braided like your cell phone charger myself I purchased a “rgb psu extender” set of cables. Got a set for my cpu (it’s a long stretch with the psu at the bottom lol), gpu and my motherboard 24 pin. While I was at it I got a 90 degree Mobo adapter cause going complete 180 out the grommet is a pain anyway it’s basically braided plastic and on either side are black strips that house the LEDs. So |————| the | being the strip and the —- being the braid. Looks really cool when setup proper i scrapped that stuff though only cause I tinker with my equipment constantly. Sometimes too much rgb is too many cables lol I actually HAVE an O11 dynamic (white), and I ended up swapping my equipment into a thermal take TT71 view - something like that. Just look up 71 view TT. It’s completely tempered glass all around, maybe a half inch gap or so between the frame and glass so airflow isn’t an issue at all. Glass is slightly tinted black so when it’s lit up, oh she’s lit up. Issue though, the thing is 70lbs alone, expensive, and massive. Massive of course is what I wanted it for so isn’t exactly a complaint anyway back to fans, if you want RGB look into the lian li ones. I forget the name off the top of my head but they snap together - up to 4 in a series. REALLY convenient cause rather than 4 fan cables plus 4 rgb cables, yikes! Nope these guys, one rgb (for the controller, included), and a standard pwm fan plug Dono what the speed is, assuming 2000. Sold in white or black. I highly highly recommend them to anybody that’s into rgb just for the convenience factor/less cable management if RGB isn’t so important (me), thermaltake has super premium ones. They do 3000rpm? I bought em cause they were highly reviewed from multiple resources. Super quiet, great warranty and yep, 50% faster than a regular 120mm Biggest downside is price. I bought a bunch at a time, most 3 packs, some single, I think like 60$ each for one? Think it was $120 for three and yeah yeah all ya haters, oh go noctua. Uh, nah. My black on black theme (purple/green like joker from Batman when lit up) don’t work well with brown and tan haha. if your REALLY into rgb search around for black light LED strips. I found a set that were maybe an inch wide and about a foot long - don’t need more cause they’re bright! Anyway usb powered so isn’t hard to strip the wires if u wanted and shove them into a molex fitting which, is ultimately what I did Then I went to the store and got some really thick uv reactive markers - yep take a guess. Clear black glass case, looks normal. Power it on, bazam! The UV stuff glows, it’s sweeeeeet plus my system is water cooled. Not that weak AIO stuff. Flex tubing and all. Anyway holds about a gallon of distilled water, eh maybe a tablespoon of bleach as a biocide. Took one of the markers apart, popped the cap on my res/pump and squeezed green UV dye in there - not much. so now when it’s off, oh that’s “just” water. Lit up? Now it looks radioactive or something, good contrast on my water blocks too as they’re nickel coated. Another benefit is the UV dye, it wears out so eventually my water is clear again. Change colors? Sure! No need to drain the loop and do all that jazz anyway!!! -Lian li fans, the ones that snap together. -you don’t have to stick with boring black psu cables, there’s alternative's -personally not a fan of the O11 but I’m not you. Had it, swapped it. I have too much to literally squeeze into that case -your psu is fine, but if your inclined, don’t hurt to get a backup or even step up to 1000w (do not go cheap, get seasonic or something. I have a “game max” and it fried my motherboard) oh one last thing to mention as I found out the hard way. I have a game max (as mentioned), Corsair, and a seasonic PSU. The game max cables will not work with anything else! Same for the Corsair set and the seasonic set! The Corsair is easy to identify cause duh it just won’t plug into anything else. The seasonic? They won’t plug into the Corsair, but will into the gamemax. BUT either PSU will NOT power on with the wrong f*ing cables! yah, so when I swapped from the GMx to my seasonic I was pretty upset to find out I had to swap every bleeping wire. She worked fine with a jumper and benched - with her cables. just saying, nobody mentioned that one to me! Not even the manufacturer sorry for the rant. Bored

Not really, Dim serves the same purpose as Var does in JavaScript. It's just a keyword to let the interpreter know that you're declaring a variable, because you can't declare and initialize a variable in VBA at the same time. A lot of language let you do something like this: int i = 0; This declares a variable of the type integer with the name i and initializes it with the value 0 in something like C or Java. I can't tell you why VBA requires the use of Dim when declaring a variable. My guess is that since declaring a data type in VBA is optional, you have to have a keyword that tells the interpreter that you intend to declare a variable. These are all valid: 'no declaration, direct assignment of a value to a variable of the default Variant data type i = 0 'declaration without type, which defaults to the Variant data type, with assisgnment later on dim i i = 0 'declaration with a type, with assignment later on dim i as Integer i = 0 Now I'd argue that if you're not gonna bother typing your variables, the second example is pointless. But since the language still allows you to declare a variable without an explicit type, you'd could end up with a line that basically just states the name of the variable with nothing around it, if you weren't at least required to use the Dim keyword. But that's only speculation on my part. To make a variable global in VBA, you need to declare it outside of a subroutine with the Global keyword, not the Dim keyword. Like this: Global myVal as Integer Sub First_Sub() myVal = 1 'etc. End Sub Sub First_Sub() myVal = 2 'etc. End Sub This allows you to use myVal anywhere in the code. Obviously, that's generally not encouraged, since variable scope is typically recommended to be kept as narrow as possible, but there might be certain instance where you just can't get around it.

recheck the usb plug to the pump, sometimes it doesn't get all in and working, missing the last mm.

Will try something like this. Will that work for displays also? or just peripherals?