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So bascily i got a i7 8086k and its getting extremley hot im using a full water cooling loop that has a 420mm ek rad ive reapplied the thermal paste ive checked the water block to see if its on properly . Im not overclocking it in anyway except the default turbo boost and on idle its hitting over 80 sometimes and underload its throttling like mad.

 

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https://linustechtips.com/topic/981487-overheating-cpu-even-when-watercooled/
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2 minutes ago, Dilwyn said:

 

Picture of your system and any any information about the loop components, how they are powered, how they have any rpm control, fans. More information needed is helpful, more pictures the better.

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Not enough mounting pressure perhaps

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 11 and Fedora Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

PSU tier list

How many watts do I need?

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2 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

Not enough mounting pressure perhaps

that's my guess, either that or a non-functioning pump or very clogged cold plate.

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System specs:
Asus Prime X370 Pro - Custom EKWB CPU/GPU 2x360 1x240 soft loop - Ryzen 1700X - Corsair Vengeance RGB 2x16GB - Plextor 512 NVMe + 2TB SU800 - EVGA GTX1080ti - LianLi PC11 Dynamic
 

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13 minutes ago, Dilwyn said:

 

What is your pump rpm? I assume since you've managed to fill your system the pump was working (and still should be). Idling in the 80s indicate to me that there is no flow in the system.

 

Also can you confirm the molex power for the D5 is connected into your current PSU.

 

One fan missing on the radiator? no biggie, but just wanted to confirm that this is what I'm seeing

 

 

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Just now, Dilwyn said:

Yeah the third fan lost a fin so it has to be without for a lil while but im not sure how to check the rpm of the pump tbh.

 

If you could show me or confirm the following things this would help:

 

- I can see that the fan header from the D5 pump is connected into the AIO_PUMP header. is this true?

- If so, either in the BIOS or something like HWinfo64 or Asus Suite, can you read the rpm value of the AIO_PUMP header

- Confirm that the D5 pump is plugged into molex power from your PSU.

- Any sensation of fluid flow in the tubes, or the sound of the pump whirring, vibrations in the D5 housing.

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5 minutes ago, Dilwyn said:

Yeah the third fan lost a fin so it has to be without for a lil while but im not sure how to check the rpm of the pump tbh.

 

Just as a side note, you've put your pump in a way that makes it difficult to bleed the air off the radiator. To bleed the radiator, you need to tilt the case on its back towards the i/0 shield, but that makes the pump go upside down. I would suggest either flipping (horizontally) the radiator or the pump to allow for easier bleeding.

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1 minute ago, For Science! said:

Just as a side note, you've put your pump in a way that makes it difficult to bleed the air off the radiator. To bleed the radiator, you need to tilt the case on its back towards the i/0 shield, but that makes the pump go upside down. I would suggest either flipping (horizontally) the radiator or the pump to allow for easier bleeding.

Yeah i knew it would be difficult to bleed but its drilled and mounted on the psu shroud so on the otherside of the pc all i got to do is remove some thumb screws and it lifts out easily.

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3 minutes ago, Dilwyn said:

I can confirm the pump is running .

Can you clear the CMOS and try RealBench?

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This is just my opinion but you should always get distilled water, I also went with neoprene tubing so there was no plasticizer. But if red is the way you want top go, just get red tubing and some rgb's set to red for some ambient lighting, that way your not gunking up blocks over time and losing performance with colored coolant and plasticizers.

 

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3 minutes ago, Dilwyn said:

Its strange how warm it is even in the bios.

If you have a photo of what the thermal paste looked like when you unmounted, this can help too. Otherwise please confirm you really can't tie down the cooler any tight3er. This is my 8700K for reference.

20171107_191011.jpg.008da5fa3e6705c9b89de1286add3567.jpg

 

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2 minutes ago, Dilwyn said:

I just ran realbench again and it took slightly longer to get to temperature but it still went to 100

Assuming there is no air in the radtator, I am starting to run out of ideas. You can rotate the CPU waterblock to the canonical position, although I don't think this is the reason.

 

I'm not even sure what is the defective component if any, can't say anymore across the internet. Hopefully somebody can help you in person/

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1 minute ago, Dilwyn said:

Do you think think if i disconnect the water pump and move it into a different header could that possibly do anything?

doubt it, the pump seems to be spinning (or at least, the motor is, according to the MB).

 

have you confirmed that you are, in fact, getting flow?

[FS][US] Corsair H115i 280mm AIO-AMD $60+shipping

 

 

System specs:
Asus Prime X370 Pro - Custom EKWB CPU/GPU 2x360 1x240 soft loop - Ryzen 1700X - Corsair Vengeance RGB 2x16GB - Plextor 512 NVMe + 2TB SU800 - EVGA GTX1080ti - LianLi PC11 Dynamic
 

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2 minutes ago, Dilwyn said:

Do you think think if i disconnect the water pump and move it into a different header could that possibly do anything?

You can try, but the AIO_PUMP header should be running at 100% duty cycle. Unplugging it should also put the pump to 100% duty cycle. Any other header may be slower since it will have a fan curve attached to it.

 

If your water/radiator warm to the touch?

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