Car Audio System

[cedge206]

In the process of picking parts for my new car sound system replacing speakers, adding amp and subwoofer in 2014 VW Golf. Staying with stock radio and stock rear speakers. I need help in finding if all will work fine. Amp will run speakers in channel 1 and 2 while channel 3 and 4 will run subwoofer (bridge). From amp output speaker cables directly to radio harness and cut cable front right and left speakers. For input into amp theres rca inputs and speaker level input. Planning on using rca cutting one end off and branching to rear left speaker and rear right and another rca for front. going to channel 1,2,3 and 4.And other connections will run 12 gauge for power and ground and REM ect...

(If I find connector for the Speaker Level Input I will use that instead for speakers.)

Will I run into any problems or issues? Is the setup Im planning going to work? I got a million other questions but mind is about to explode. Could just have the pros do it but want to save money and satisfaction of doing it.

 

 

speaker:alpine sps-610C 6.5" component speakers

              power range: 2-80 watts RMS (240 watts peak power)

              4 ohms impedance (purchasing for $200AUD

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-xdBtbJqw01M/p_500SPS610C/Alpine-SPS-610C.html

 

AMP: alpine MRP-F300 4 channel

         50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (75 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)

         150 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)  purchasing for $130AUD

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-yQbQcaMqAjj/p_500MRPF300/Alpine-MRP-F300.html

 

Subwoofer: clarion sw10x 300watts RMS 4-Ohm. (not too sure about the sub it is very old model was running on apx2120 clarion amp before 120watts was fine and plenty of bass.Single channel not bridge.)

 

 

 

[johnny5c]

You can't run the speaker output from the head unit into the RCA input on the amp because you'll fry it, only the speaker level input can handle that much power so definitely need to find that connector.  Running the amp in 3 channels (50x2 + 150x1) isn't a problem but I wouldn't run four speakers on two channels, run your components and the sub off the amp and either ditch the rears or continue powering them off the head unit.  I would also go with a 8 gauge amp wiring kit. 

 

If you can't find the connector a couple of these will work,

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142LOC80/Scosche-LOC80.html

[cedge206]

On 7/20/2018 at 7:29 PM, johnny5c said:

You can't run the speaker output from the head unit into the RCA input on the amp because you'll fry it, only the speaker level input can handle that much power so definitely need to find that connector.  Running the amp in 3 channels (50x2 + 150x1) isn't a problem but I wouldn't run four speakers on two channels, run your components and the sub off the amp and either ditch the rears or continue powering them off the head unit.  I would also go with a 8 gauge amp wiring kit. 

 

If you can't find the connector a couple of these will work,

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142LOC80/Scosche-LOC80.html

Ok i have gotten hands on the speaker level input connector. Connector those to the speaker output in head unit.(14gauge speaker cable will work fine yeah?) Then wont need any rca. Rears will run off head unit and yes i have the amp wiring kit. (will now buy new so the connector should come with it)

 

So then run the speaker output back behind the head unit to the wires of the front left and right speakers. ( dont think i could run separate cables to each of the front bit too much taking apart) Although will the benefits be good if i run the 14gauge to each of the front?

 

Also my 8 gauge power wire and 14gauge speaker cables might be running next to each other along the car, will that cause much interference?

[johnny5c]

3 hours ago, cedge206 said:

Ok i have gotten hands on the speaker level input connector. Connector those to the speaker output in head unit.(14gauge speaker cable will work fine yeah?) Then wont need any rca. Rears will run off head unit and yes i have the amp wiring kit. (will now buy new so the connector should come with it)

 

So then run the speaker output back behind the head unit to the wires of the front left and right speakers. ( dont think i could run separate cables to each of the front bit too much taking apart) Although will the benefits be good if i run the 14gauge to each of the front?

 

Also my 8 gauge power wire and 14gauge speaker cables might be running next to each other along the car, will that cause much interference?

14 gauge is fine for the components and signal inputs to the amp, you'll want something heavier for the sub.

 

Before you do anything find the wiring diagram for your Golf and make sure there isn't any shared grounds in the speaker wiring because it can cause issues with the high level inputs.  The best way would be to run two pairs of wire to each front speaker location from the amp, one pair to send the signal to the amp from the factory wiring and the second to power the speaker.  It's more work but you don't have to chop up the head unit's wiring harness this way, in fact you wouldn't even need to remove the head unit.  For the remote wire for the amp you can tap into any 12v switched wire like one that powers a 12v outlet.

 

It would be best to run the speaker and power wires down different sides of the car but it shouldn't cause much interference if you can't.

[cedge206]

1 hour ago, johnny5c said:

14 gauge is fine for the components and signal inputs to the amp, you'll want something heavier for the sub.

 

Before you do anything find the wiring diagram for your Golf and make sure there isn't any shared grounds in the speaker wiring because it can cause issues with the high level inputs.  The best way would be to run two pairs of wire to each front speaker location from the amp, one pair to send the signal to the amp from the factory wiring and the second to power the speaker.  It's more work but you don't have to chop up the head unit's wiring harness this way, in fact you wouldn't even need to remove the head unit.  For the remote wire for the amp you can tap into any 12v switched wire like one that powers a 12v outlet.

 

It would be best to run the speaker and power wires down different sides of the car but it shouldn't cause much interference if you can't.

 Running two wires is just genius lol. Just need to fin a way to get the wires easily to the front speakers but then will need to tap into the rear ones also. For channel 3 and 4 for the sub and so im able to use the AMP's "Remote Sensing automatic turn-on" while using speaker level input. saves me running REM cable or going to fuse.

 

[johnny5c]

9 hours ago, cedge206 said:

 Running two wires is just genius lol. Just need to fin a way to get the wires easily to the front speakers but then will need to tap into the rear ones also. For channel 3 and 4 for the sub and so im able to use the AMP's "Remote Sensing automatic turn-on" while using speaker level input. saves me running REM cable or going to fuse.

 

For the sub I suggest using a line converter that has a dash mounted level control, makes the system easier to use because you don't have to open the trunk/boot every time you want to adjust the sub level.

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142LOC90/Scosche-LOC90-Speaker-to-RCA-Line-Output-Converter.html

[Guest]

On 7/20/2018 at 2:59 AM, cedge206 said:

In the process of picking parts for my new car sound system replacing speakers, adding amp and subwoofer in 2014 VW Golf. Staying with stock radio and stock rear speakers.

You might have trouble connecting to the amplifier. If you don't have any RCA outputs you will need a High to Low adapter and use the high outputs that are the speaker outputs. It's not an ideal setup but it can work. You can also get an Amplifier integrator, which provides a much better sound quality and intercepts your stock wire harness. NavTV USA provides some great examples, I'm not sure where to get into Australia. 

 

On 7/20/2018 at 2:59 AM, cedge206 said:

I need help in finding if all will work fine. Amp will run speakers in channel 1 and 2 while channel 3 and 4 will run subwoofer (bridge).

It's not a great idea to run highs, mids and lows all off one Amp. You're probably better off running your speakers from your head unit. You won't be able to adjust the gains properly while keeping good fidelity (i.e. too much bass from the speakers could cause distortion, but you won't get that distortion in your subwoofer)

On 7/20/2018 at 2:59 AM, cedge206 said:

From amp output speaker cables directly to radio harness and cut cable front right and left speakers. For input into amp theres rca inputs and speaker level input. Planning on using rca cutting one end off and branching to rear left speaker and rear right and another rca for front. going to channel 1,2,3 and 4.And other connections will run 12 gauge for power and ground and REM ect...

This is a bit confusing but you might be able to use the speaker level input. Don't touch the RCAs if you don't have RCA output on your head unit. Don't use 12 gauge for power and ground, use 8 gauge at this wattage. 10, 12 and 16 at a stretch are gauges made for speakers, not amplifiers and aren't designed to carry power. For your level of experience I would get an Amplifier install kit, you can buy at any Repco or Supercheap Auto etc. It includes all you need, including a fuse. If you have any trouble, I'd talk to the guys in there too, they are always happy to help. 12 Gauge if fine for a remote, it's just a signal. 

On 7/20/2018 at 2:59 AM, cedge206 said:

(If I find connector for the Speaker Level Input I will use that instead for speakers.)

Input, not output. It's probably a high-level input but I'm not very familiar with alpine. You will need to use a t-connector or splice off a speaker output from the head unit. 

On 7/20/2018 at 2:59 AM, cedge206 said:

Will I run into any problems or issues? Is the setup Im planning going to work? I got a million other questions but mind is about to explode. Could just have the pros do it but want to save money and satisfaction of doing it.

 

 

speaker:alpine sps-610C 6.5" component speakers

              power range: 2-80 watts RMS (240 watts peak power)

              4 ohms impedance (purchasing for $200AUD

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-xdBtbJqw01M/p_500SPS610C/Alpine-SPS-610C.html

Not bad speakers. 

On 7/20/2018 at 2:59 AM, cedge206 said:

AMP: alpine MRP-F300 4 channel

         50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (75 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)

         150 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)  purchasing for $130AUD

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-yQbQcaMqAjj/p_500MRPF300/Alpine-MRP-F300.html

Don't be budget on your Amp. A good head unit can provide around 50RMS anyway. Use a 4ch Amplifier for your speakers and  a Mono amplifier for your subwoofer. If you are on a budget you can power your speakers off your Head Unit or get a 5Ch Amplifier. 

On 7/20/2018 at 2:59 AM, cedge206 said:

Subwoofer: clarion sw10x 300watts RMS 4-Ohm. (not too sure about the sub it is very old model was running on apx2120 clarion amp before 120watts was fine and plenty of bass.Single channel not bridge.)

If you already have it, I don't see why you shouldn't try. All Subwoofers are single channel. 

[APileofRocks]

I agree with much of what Johnny5c and RorzNZ have already said. Some points to take away:

 

- Use the High-Level inputs for whatever amplifier you buy (make sure it has them to begin with). Usually you can connect to these inputs with just 12-16 gauge speaker wire.

 

- When taking your signal from the radio to the amplifier, make sure your signal is full-range, or at least split between one pair that's mid's and highs, and another for low-end

 

- I would recommend running the power wires on the opposite side of the vehicle as the audio cables. Some small lengths of power and audio wires next to each other shouldn't cause problems but generally avoid as much as you can.

 

- Swing for an amplifier with higher power output. Running a bridged section for the subs and stereo for the front is perfectly fine, but it will demand a lot from the amplifier at times if you crank the volume.

 

- If possible, use a two or four channel amp and a mono amplifier for the sub. Or, if you can find a good deal on one, get a five channel amp. These give you a dedicated mono channel for the sub, and some even come with a port for a level controller that can control the sub.

 

- You can typically find some pretty good deals on used amplifiers on Ebay. Failing that, try a local car audio store. Depending on the market where you are, you could get some really good deals if the stuff just isn't selling. I once got a 1000W mono amp for 200 less than Crutchfield brand new just because the shop didn't have a discontinued model I asked for. Be forewarned that while Crutchfield is a fantastic store and resource, their prices are usually marked up about 20-30%.

 

- I would recommend that you run a remote turn on lead for your amp. Some amps will turn on when they sense an input signal, but it usually makes you wait a second while the amp starts. So you play a song, and the song cues in like 2 seconds later. A bit of a nitpick, so you may not find it too annoying. A remote lead usually isn't too much trouble, but yes it is an extra step.

 

TLDR: I've gone through the process of redoing my car's audio system recently and find myself to be a bit of a nerd about it. There's a lot of particulars involved, but as long as you install the amplifier safely and properly, there's no reason to pay a shop to do the work. It takes time and labor, but doing it yourself saves a lot of money. Plan out your install steps beforehand and don't take shortcuts with the power wiring and you will be fine.