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Which A320 Motherboard?

I'm building a PC for a friend which, and I'm debating between two A320 motherboards to pair with a Ryzen 2600. This build is pretty budget-constrained, so even though a B350 board only costs $10 extra, I'll opt for a cheaper board, since I also know that he won't be overclocking at all.

 

I'm debating between this (Option A):

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157767&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker, LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

and this (Option B):

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157764&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker, LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

 

Option B seems to be better (with VRMs good enough to support 95W CPUs), but it isn't listed as 2000 Series ready, so I'm not sure if I can count on it being updated to the correct BIOS beforehand.

*Note that he is ordering the parts, and then I'm coming to his house to build them, so if the board isn't updated for the 2000 series, that could be a big problem.

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Desktop:

Delidded Core i7 4770K - GTX 1070 ROG Strix - 16GB DDR3 - Lots of RGB lights I never change

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Don't bother with the A320 boards. A B350 will let you overclock, but not the best.

 

btw, TL:DR

hi.

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48 minutes ago, RadiatingLight said:

if the board isn't updated for the 2000 series, that could be a big problem.

If I were you, I would opt for option A, purely because it's Ryzen 2000 series ready and that seems to be the most crucial thing about this new build, is compatibility on the day.

 

Besides, you also mentioned that he wouldn't be overclocking, so the 65W TDP limit isn't an issue. Unless he plans on upgrading down the line.

mechanical keyboard switches aficionado & hi-fi audio enthusiast

switch reviews  how i lube mx-style keyboard switches

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Option B (A320M), because there are more rear I/O options (wont be using display outputs on the DGS with a 2600 anyway), while there is an actual heatsink on top of the VRMs to make sure the caps near the mosfets dont get cooked alive and die shortly after (boards this cheap is very unlikely to have over temperature shutdown). I would rather go over the hassle of ordering the bootkit and updating the BIOS.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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