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Hello, I just recently bought an I5 8600k with a new motherboard and I started looking into overclocking, of course I looked to see if my motherboard would be good to overclock and I’ve found mixed feelings about it. I was just wondering if anyone had a definite answer.

 

This is my PC - https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MMR8QZ

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https://linustechtips.com/topic/936668-how-far-can-i-overclock-my-cpu/
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I'd swap out that motherboard for something like an Asus Prime z370-A or Strix z370-E (which is pretty pricey) and get a better cooler. Something like a Dark Rock Pro 4, NH-D15, or H100i v2. 

 

BTW, why don't you have a SSD in your build, it's 2018 and HDDs ain't that fast. 

CPU: Intel Core i7-950 Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R CPU Cooler: NZXT HAVIK 140 RAM: Corsair Dominator DDR3-1600 (1x2GB), Crucial DDR3-1600 (2x4GB), Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR3-1600 (1x4GB) GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 770 DirectCU II 2GB SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" 1TB HDDs: WD Green 3.5" 1TB, WD Blue 3.5" 1TB PSU: Corsair AX860i & CableMod ModFlex Cables Case: Fractal Design Meshify C TG (White) Fans: 2x Dynamic X2 GP-12 Monitors: LG 24GL600F, Samsung S24D390 Keyboard: Logitech G710+ Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum Mouse Pad: Steelseries QcK Audio: Bose SoundSport In-Ear Headphones

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Just now, Rasbir Singh said:

I'd swap out that motherboard for something like an Asus Prime z370-A or Strix z370-E (which is pretty pricey) and get a better cooler. Something like a Dark Rock Pro 4, NH-D15, or H100i v2. 

 

BTW, why don't you have a SSD in your build, it's 2018 and HDDs ain't that fast. 

Yeah I figured that there were better parts to get I was just wondering if it would be good to overclock with these parts or just keep it stock. Oh and I’m planning on getting an ssd soon

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What a sad set of VRMs.

 

If you have a thermal probe then you can overclock while keeping VRM heatsink temps in 5 min stress test below 80C (if you can somehow put the probe on the mosfets, then it's 110C).

 

If you dont have a thermal probe, then better leave it at stock. 8600k can easily draw enough power to cook the VRMs with no mercy.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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14 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

What a sad set of VRMs.

 

If you have a thermal probe then you can overclock while keeping VRM heatsink temps in 5 min stress test below 80C (if you can somehow put the probe on the mosfets, then it's 110C).

 

If you dont have a thermal probe, then better leave it at stock. 8600k can easily draw enough power to cook the VRMs with no mercy.

So don’t overclock it without doing anything special or getting another motherboard?

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7 minutes ago, CampbellSoup1013 said:

So don’t overclock it without doing anything special or getting another motherboard?

no thermal probe, then dont overclock with the Z370XP SLI. You can (and I encourage you to) undervolt the CPU, which increases its efficiency, lowers power draw and makes it better for the VRMs. Temps should also go lower.

 

If you want to overclock, it's time for another (and better) motherboard.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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45 minutes ago, Rasbir Singh said:

I'd swap out that motherboard for something like an Asus Prime z370-A or Strix z370-E (which is pretty pricey) and get a better cooler. Something like a Dark Rock Pro 4, NH-D15, or H100i v2. 

 

BTW, why don't you have a SSD in your build, it's 2018 and HDDs ain't that fast. 

In my country the Strix Z370F is much cheaper than the Z370E, and it has basically the same VRM and power delivery system. As should the Prime Z370-A. Just remember to update BIOS as the launch BIOSes had disfunctional LLC.

Main rig: i7 8086K // EVGA Z370 Micro // 16GB Gskill TridentZ 3200Mhz CL14 // Sapphire Pulse RX 7800XT// a variety of noctua cooling // Corsair RM750x v2 //  Fractal Meshify C

Secondary rig: R5 3600 // MSI B450i Gaming Plus // 16GB Gskill FlareX 3200CL14 // MSI GTX 1080ti Gaming X // Cooler Master V650 // Fractal Meshify C

Audio setup: Audient iD4 // Adam A7X // Sennheiser HD 650 // Sennheiser HD 25-II // Audio Technica M50x // Sennheiser Momentum 4

 

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8 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

no thermal probe, then dont overclock with the Z370XP SLI. You can (and I encourage you to) undervolt the CPU, which increases its efficiency, lowers power draw and makes it better for the VRMs. Temps should also go lower.

 

If you want to overclock, it's time for another (and better) motherboard.

How would you undervolt the CPU? Sorry if I seem like a noob to this I’ve just never dealt with the whole overclocking genre 

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Just now, CampbellSoup1013 said:

How would you undervolt the CPU? Sorry if I seem like a noob to this I’ve just never dealt with the whole overclocking genre 

in the bios, there will be a CPU voltage option that defaults to auto. Change that to offset as you will want to reduce that value further. Then either 1 box or two boxes will appear.

 

If there's one, set a negative value say -0.05V, then save your settings, leave the BIOS and do stress test in Windows (Prime95's in-place large FFTs work best for me). If it doesnt crash after a 2-3min stress test, restart the PC and enter the BIOS again. Reduce the voltage offset by another -0.05v, and do the above again. Repeat till it finally crashes (or anything abnormal happens), enter the BIOS a final time and increase the offset by 0.15V. That should be stable for long term use.

 

If there's two, one of the boxes should let you choose between a + sign or a - sign. Use the negative sign. It simply means you have to enter the negative sign here rather than the box with numbers. For example, a negative sign in the first box and 0.05V in the second box is the same as entering -0.05V when there's only 1 box. The rest of the procedures are the same as the above.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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25 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

in the bios, there will be a CPU voltage option that defaults to auto. Change that to offset as you will want to reduce that value further. Then either 1 box or two boxes will appear.

 

If there's one, set a negative value say -0.05V, then save your settings, leave the BIOS and do stress test in Windows (Prime95's in-place large FFTs work best for me). If it doesnt crash after a 2-3min stress test, restart the PC and enter the BIOS again. Reduce the voltage offset by another -0.05v, and do the above again. Repeat till it finally crashes (or anything abnormal happens), enter the BIOS a final time and increase the offset by 0.15V. That should be stable for long term use.

 

If there's two, one of the boxes should let you choose between a + sign or a - sign. Use the negative sign. It simply means you have to enter the negative sign here rather than the box with numbers. For example, a negative sign in the first box and 0.05V in the second box is the same as entering -0.05V when there's only 1 box. The rest of the procedures are the same as the above.

I will definitely try it out. Thank you

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