First time PC build

[Special-K]

Hello LTT Forum, I am trying to price out my first pc build for gaming and first build overall. I'm looking for some pointers and components that work well with each-other for a decent price. I am also looking to see if the components I have currently compiled on Newegg will work with one another and how well it would work for gaming. If there are options that may be cheaper, work better, or are missing with this component list, I would greatly appreciate the advice. This pc may still be out of my budget as of right now, but I am going to try and save as much as I can to get a system that can hit at least 60fps with decent/ok graphical settings. Here is my list of parts that I have currently: https://secure.newegg.com/Wishlist/SharedWishlistDetail?ID=63yuml%2fu4F8%3d&&cm_mmc=snc-email-_-sr-_-wishlist-63yuml%2fu4F8%3d-_-04/04/2018

 

Thanks in advance for any advice I may receive on this forum post, I look forward to learning more.

[Nerdtality]

I would advise against Seagate, get a WD Blue or Black

[SupaKomputa]

2 minutes ago, Nerdtality said:

I would advise against Seagate, get a WD Blue or Black

Neither, get a Hitachi / HGST or Toshiba for it's proven durability.

[xriqn]

6 minutes ago, Nerdtality said:

I would advise against Seagate, get a WD Blue or Black

Nothing wrong with Seagate. I still have an old Seagate ST3000DM001-9YN166, AKA a HDD that was well known for its flaws. Works fine and never refurbished it.

[Nerdtality]

1 minute ago, SupaKomputa said:

Neither, get a Hitachi / HGST or Toshiba for it's proven durability.

Yes, though anything is better than Seagate...

[xriqn]

What is your budget?

[Special-K]

Just now, xriqn said:

What is your budget?

Right now, kinda unsure, I am trying to keep it under $1,000 though, under $900 if I could. Working at McDonald's doesn't help though, hopefully soon I can find something better.

[Nerdtality]

Credit: Backblaze

[xriqn]

1 minute ago, Special-K said:

Right now, kinda unsure, I am trying to keep it under $1,000 though, under $900 if I could. Working at McDonald's doesn't help though, hopefully soon I can find something better.

I'll see what I can do for around 750 - 800 for you.

[Streetguru]

16 minutes ago, Special-K said:

 

No on like everything.

Just buy an R3 2200G system and it'll be alright for 1080p gaming on the cheap, or if you have a higher budget get an R5 2400G for a future dedicated GPU, though the R3 will be alright for 60hz gaming

 

motherboard may need a BIOS update.
 

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/XH6tgw
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/XH6tgw/by_merchant/

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($99.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($74.39 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($43.21 @ OutletPC)
Case: Cougar - MX330 ATX Mid Tower Case  ($24.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Cooler Master - MasterWatt 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($44.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $382.45
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-04-04 16:03 EDT-0400

[xriqn]

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2400G 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($162.79 @ OutletPC) 
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-AB350N-Gaming WIFI (rev. 1.0) Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard  ($113.39 @ OutletPC) 
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($164.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: SanDisk - Ultra 3D 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($74.99 @ B&H) 
Storage: Toshiba - 1TB 2.5" 5400RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive  ($59.00 @ Newegg Marketplace) 
Case: Logisys - CS301BK ATX Mid Tower Case w/480W Power Supply  ($44.87 @ OutletPC) 
Total: $620.03
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-04-04 16:08 EDT-0400

 

Power with low price. Overclocking included  Case has a PSU so don't worry about that not being a category in the list.

[xriqn]

16 minutes ago, Nerdtality said:

Credit: Backblaze

Again, proud to say my now 7 year old Seagate ST3000DM001 isn't dead.

[SupaKomputa]

5 minutes ago, xriqn said:

Again, proud to say my now 7 year old Seagate ST3000DM001 isn't dead.

Yes not all are bad, but the probability is bigger than competitors.

[xriqn]

1 hour ago, SupaKomputa said:

Yes not all are bad, but the probability is bigger than competitors.

Just use them as secondary drives. It's what I do with my ST3000DM001. Still had heavy usage though, stores most of my games even though I have a 1tb boot drive lmao.

[Herman Mcpootis]

6 hours ago, xriqn said:

Case: Logisys - CS301BK ATX Mid Tower Case w/480W Power Supply  ($44.87 @ OutletPC) 

No. just, no. unless you want this to happen to his computer.

https://www.theregister.co.uk/2012/11/26/exploding_computer_vs_reg_reader/

[Herman Mcpootis]

6 hours ago, Nerdtality said:

I would advise against Seagate, get a WD Blue or Black

 

6 hours ago, Nerdtality said:

Credit: Backblaze

 

6 hours ago, Nerdtality said:

Yes, though anything is better than Seagate...

their failure rate data is quite skewed, they're using consumer drives on large servers that they aren't made for, and they use drives that are very old along with new drives.

http://www.enterprisestorageforum.com/storage-hardware/selecting-a-disk-drive-how-not-to-do-research-1.html

look at the first drive on the table, an 8-year old drive that was known to have issues that seagate has admitted to, and the Barracuda Greens failed on their servers because they just weren't specified for it.

[Herman Mcpootis]

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i5-8400 2.8GHz 6-Core Processor  ($178.90 @ OutletPC) 
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2800 Memory  ($81.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Drevo - X1 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($62.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: Toshiba - 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($54.99 @ Newegg Marketplace) 
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card  ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
Case: DIYPC - DIY-F2-P MicroATX Mini Tower Case  ($19.98 @ Newegg) 
Power Supply: Corsair - CXM (2015) 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($26.99 @ Newegg) 
Other: ASRock H310M-DGS LGA 1151 (300 Series) Intel H310 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard  ($61.98 @ Newegg) 
Total: $816.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-04-04 22:38 EDT-0400

[Kilo One]

Take a look at this one:

 

https://kit.com/Kilo_One/amd-mid-range-pc

 

[LienusLateTips]

25 minutes ago, Kilo One said:

Take a look at this one:

 

https://kit.com/Kilo_One/amd-mid-range-pc

 

No, please no. Half of all the parts are completely overpriced or not needed.

[xriqn]

5 hours ago, herman mcpootis said:

No. just, no. unless you want this to happen to his computer.

https://www.theregister.co.uk/2012/11/26/exploding_computer_vs_reg_reader/

Used a no name PSU before in a computer, my Dell inspiron 530 had a no name PSU for 8 years of its lifespan before the PSU died and I replaced with some antec 250w one. That was clearly just a tragic incident that you rarely see.

[Special-K]

18 hours ago, Special-K said:

Hello LTT Forum, I am trying to price out my first pc build for gaming and first build overall. I'm looking for some pointers and components that work well with each-other for a decent price. I am also looking to see if the components I have currently compiled on Newegg will work with one another and how well it would work for gaming. If there are options that may be cheaper, work better, or are missing with this component list, I would greatly appreciate the advice. This pc may still be out of my budget as of right now, but I am going to try and save as much as I can to get a system that can hit at least 60fps with decent/ok graphical settings. Here is my list of parts that I have currently: https://secure.newegg.com/Wishlist/SharedWishlistDetail?ID=63yuml%2fu4F8%3d&&cm_mmc=snc-email-_-sr-_-wishlist-63yuml%2fu4F8%3d-_-04/04/2018

 

Thanks in advance for any advice I may receive on this forum post, I look forward to learning more.

I've slightly updated the list to have a cpu without the stock cooler, a coolermaster hyper 212 for cpu cooling, a tube of thermal compound, and win 10.

Here is a PCPartPicker list the same items except the HDD: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/GDqvnH

[Herman Mcpootis]

9 minutes ago, Special-K said:

I've slightly updated the list to have a cpu without the stock cooler, a coolermaster hyper 212 for cpu cooling, a tube of thermal compound, and win 10.

Here is a PCPartPicker list the same items except the HDD: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/GDqvnH

so you're not gonna listen to us at all?

[SpaceGhostC2C]

I think the discussion about HDDs is like discussing the gender of angels.

The probability that any HDD is going to fail eventually is 1. The probability that a home user, with typical home use, can predict the exact timing of death is 0.

So, when it comes to HDDs, buy any. But buy at least two (not necessarily simultaneously, but don't delay much), and make regular backups (ideally, have the backup drive completely off while not in use). Expect to nuy another HDD int he future, when the main dies and the backup becomes main (or if the backup dies first, which is less likely but still possible - another reason to update the backup regularly: to make sure it's still alive).

[Mindstab Thrull]

When buying a power supply, I always recommend buying either from a reputable manufacturer or, if you don't know brands and haven't time to do research, at least a 80 PLUS rated power supply. Budget "I don't care about quality" manufacturers tend to deliver units that may not last long, won't support the amount of power you actually need, or cause other issues like regular blue screens. They won't, however, send their PSUs to another organization for any sort of quality rating because that costs money, probably more than the unit is worth. So at least an 80 PLUS rating gives you some idea that this is a reasonable unit. 

I also know from personal experience that I had a box with a noname power supply in it, had upgraded to a name brand 80 PLUS unit, and my monthly problems dropped like a hot rock.

So, spend some extra on a decent PSU and you'll be much happier with your system. You'll have less issues overall, especially if you plan on overclocking it at all.

[Guest]

1 hour ago, Mindstab Thrull said:

When buying a power supply, I always recommend buying either from a reputable manufacturer or, if you don't know brands and haven't time to do research, at least a 80 PLUS rated power supply. Budget "I don't care about quality" manufacturers tend to deliver units that may not last long, won't support the amount of power you actually need, or cause other issues like regular blue screens. They won't, however, send their PSUs to another organization for any sort of quality rating because that costs money, probably more than the unit is worth. So at least an 80 PLUS rating gives you some idea that this is a reasonable unit. 

I also know from personal experience that I had a box with a noname power supply in it, had upgraded to a name brand 80 PLUS unit, and my monthly problems dropped like a hot rock.

So, spend some extra on a decent PSU and you'll be much happier with your system. You'll have less issues overall, especially if you plan on overclocking it at all.

That is incorrect. A good manufacturer doesn't necessarily mean a good psu. Even Seasonic have mediocre/average units in their lineup (M12II/S12II if I remember correctly).

 

As for the 80 plus rating that also has zero bearing on the quality of the unit. 

 

I agree that you should never skimp on the psu though, as it is the most important component in your pc.