Liquid Metal Laptop Cooling – 20C LOWER!

[nosauce]

6 hours ago, Amaranth said:

It should be as thin as you can get it - I literally paint the liquid metal onto the die when I'm doing a repaste or delid (although make sure to cover both the die and the bottom of whatever is going to contact the die for optimal results).

I'm concerned about targeting the correct rectangular area of the heat plates that touches the DI. The heat plates are a lot bigger than the DI. So when I apply the LM on the heat plate I'm not sure how I'll apply the LM on the exact rectangular area that'll be in contact with the DI. Fortunately, when I take the heat plates off, the area that touches the DI will be marked by the thermal interface material (TIM) that was previously applied. But outlining this area with a marker will not work because the isopropyl alcohol used to remove the TIM will erase the marker. I'm not sure if a pen or pencil will work better.

In Linus's video (~6min mark) the area of the heat plate that touches the DI is surrounded by some sort of black tape-like material. Do you know what this is? Would this be a potential solution? maybe use that to tape the rectangular area that touches the DI?

[nosauce]

On 4/26/2018 at 1:37 AM, matri95 said:

Hello, i am from Romania and i wanted to use liquid metal to cool my laptop, but i did not find MG conformal coating here and if i order from amazon i pay more for shipping than for the product. Is PVB 60 Varnish a good replacement?

 

Edit: My laptop is an Acer Aspire V Nitro Black Edition ( VN7-593G ). Is it safe to use liquid metal with my heatsink ? 

Here are some pictures:

What is all that black tape-like material on the heat plates and pipes? Did that come with the laptop or did you put that on? Thanks!

[arkage]

On 2/22/2018 at 3:44 PM, Amaranth said:

I would not use liquid metal on any Razer Blade product since they have a mixed copper-aluminum heatsink and liquid metal should never be used with aluminum. Instead I recommend you try Kryonaut, a non-liquid metal paste that is also non-conductive, if you want to repaste your laptop (and it does sound like it needs some work). 

I created an account just to reply to you lol.  Your warning here got me searching for confirmation that the vapor chamber in the Razer 15 2018 is mixed copper-aluminum like you say, as I'm considering doing this.  How did you come across this info?  As far as I can tell, the only official mention of "aluminium" is for the Razer chassis, not the heatsink.  And if it is a mixture like you say, it would have to be "aluminium bronze" to give it the similar orangy/yellow color of copper, right?

Doubly strange is that there are companies that offer liquid metal cooling on Razer Blade models with a 1 yr warranty.

Also, a guy on reddit took some pics of his 1-month old application of liquid metal on the Razer 15 vapor chamber.  The LM looks dried up but after he cleans it off I don't think it's showing the corrosion you would see if it were aluminium bronze, at least according to the the pics I've seen here. Though that site only tests it on pure aluminum so it's hard to say what the results would look like for aluminium bronze.

One final wrinkle, the reddit guy says it's copper with nickel plating.  I thought nickel plating was silver colored but I guess there can be yellow versions of it?  So it could either be copper/nickel, plain copper, or copper/aluminum.

All in all, still unsure, and hoping someone can confirm either way.

[Amaranth]

On 11/30/2018 at 8:12 PM, arkage said:

Your warning here got me searching for confirmation that the vapor chamber in the Razer 15 2018...

The late 2018 Razer 15 has a different cooling system based around a vapor chamber, at the time I posted the Blade line used exposed copper heatpipes set into an aluminum housing. If you're on the newer Blade you should be fine using Liquid Metal.

 

[megalith]

I have an Alienware 17 r5 right now and it's burning like a fireplace during winter.

 

Is there a good precaution for securing LM from going elsewhere? 

 

People have suggested a Polyurethane Foam dam on top of an Electrical tape in conjunction with a gap filler to push or prevent any possibilities of a lose heatsink from opening up and spewing Liquid Metal.

 

I would really want to keep this system but I can't deal with thermals hitting 100C during winter(below 60F).

[Haris Javed]

I have used Liquid Metal on all my desktop CPU's - I will be doing it on my newest laptop as well. Its an asus scar with i7 8750h, and full fledged RTX 2070. I already have my cpu Liquid Metaled, but I will also also do my GPU. I have noticed my GPU tends to raise my cpu temp because of the shared heat pipes. Before my LM application the CPU was hitting 92-95C in BFV, and thermal throttling to 2.9Ghz, after the LM application the CPU does not break 83C while running at 3.713 Ghz (ambient of 70F, and gaming session lasting between 2-3 hours) . In total I have applied LM on 9 computers, 6 desktops, and 3 laptops, and so far the results have been great - no spillover or dead components. I still have a 6700k that I used liquid metal on back in 2016, and it has been great ever since. My wife uses that CPU now for some occasional Rainbow 6, and Fallout 3 game play. I do think that the CoolLabratory Ultra LM is superior to Cryonaut based on that is is easier to spread, and the applicator is MUCH better. Performance is same. 

[sameerplchandra]

Hey Guys, Newby here. What would Constitute "too much moving"? I tend to travel around 2-3x per month, so my laptop is travelling with me. I am tiered of hitting 100c on my Razer 15, even after Undervolting and MSI. Assuming I dont immediately move my laptop around after gaming. Would it still be at risk of leaking with Liquid metal + physical and solution-based protection around my CPU/GPU?

[Amaranth]

On 4/3/2019 at 10:54 AM, sameerplchandra said:

Hey Guys, Newby here. What would Constitute "too much moving"?

I wouldn't worry about a liquid metal spill if you have a proper application, I've used liquid metal on all my mobile machines including my daily drivers, laptops that are moved/carried daily, and have never had an issue.

[jstuart83]

I had tried grizzly LM on My 2018 Blade 1070 and after about 4 months the LM "dried out" as people call it.  What happened is that the LM alloyed and absorbed into the vapor chamber and when I removed it, it was stuck on and I finally got it to come loose a portion of the copper actually pitted the vapor chamber.  I tried to smooth it back out with some wet sanding but I discovered that the copper on the CPU side is very thin.  In the end I ended up paying 900 dollars to Razer for a new mother board and vapor chamber because they said they come as a set.  They had discounted it from 1300.  I think the reason for this, is that I put the fujiploly pads on when I did it. I believe they are too stiff to allow the vapor chamber to sit flat on the CPU causing a poor fit.  Some people don't have issues with them but i wonder if it is because of the amount of TIM they use.  I tend to be very conservative when applying TIM. I have tested several application since then.  I bought another vapor chamber off of ebay finally after searching for months.  I took some liquid metal and primed the ebay VC for a couple of months.  Last week I swapped to the primed vapor chamber put the fujiploly pads on again.  After I did this I was still getting poor thermals not much better than regular paste.  So I removed the LM vapor chamber and put the new original non LM VC back on with the fujiploly pads and finally got the thermals OK but not great about the same as the LM.  I came across a post where someone was having issues with the fujiploly pads and swapped to the arctic brand because they were more compressible,  so I figured what the heck.  I ordered the arctic pads and cut them to exact fit every chip and put the LM primed VC back on with conductonaut.  Now running the Assians Creed Origin benchmark on high, which I feel is a better way to measure real world performance, Im not getting over 82C on the CPU and 73C to 74C on the GPU and the cores are within about 1 to 2 c of each other.  I also have a -.140mV under-volt on gaming profile and throttle stop set when all cores are being utilized it caps at 3.4Ghz, anything higher then that it power throttles anyway.  Before changing the thermal pads, which I believe was causing poor mounting pressure and fit I was hitting as high as 95 and the temp spread between the cores was high.  So Im hoping that the already primed VC with the LM will not alloy since I had primed it in a controlled way.  If I see the thermals degrade again with the liquid metal Ill try the original VC with the arctic pads and thermalright TFX paste which advertises 14.3W/m-K and see if my thermals get better with normal paste.  Also both of these vapor chambers I have the CPU mounting plate is wavy and not flat.  I can take a razor blade " no pun intended" and put it across in both X and Y directions and you can see daylight between the razor blade and the heat sink.  Im a little disappointed that two different vapor chambers have are like this.  I believe that if the CPU chamber side was more flat and the mounting pressure was a little higher the blade thermals would probably be better and more consistent.  Just food for thought.

[Trollmortal]

Can I ask two questions?

1. How is the laptop you guys appiled the thermal grizzly to holding up?

2.Can you apply this on a GE63 Raider 9Se?