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First Custom Loop; Looking for Feedback

Hello,

 

As the title suggests, i'm trying to finalize the parts list for my first custom loop. I've been running a h110 aio on a high end pc for 3+ years now and have started to see degrading performance as the pump slowly starts to die. After looking at new aio's for the past few hours, i've decided to finally try my first go at a custom loop.  

 

My PC specs:

CPU: 7820x

Mobo: Asus Strix x299-e

GPU: EVGA 1080 ti ICX sc2 (11G P4 6593 KR)

Case: Phanteks Enthoo Primo (white) 

 

Current Loop Parts:

(See attached pictures) 

 

I'm confident i have plenty of cooling capacity, my two main concerns are:

1- Is everything compatible "out of the box"

2- Are the parts "good/excellent quality" 

I don't want anything clogging up the system in a month or two or causing leaks. 

 

As this is my first attempt, i am going about it pretty simple. Soft tubing, pretty much all EK (from the configurator), and just the cpu and gpu in the loop (cpu monoblock that also gets the mobo too). I know the fans are a little "fancy"; I'm currently running two of them on the h110 i have and love the way they look. If they would truly cripple my cooling performance, I'm open to suggestions for better fans. Also, im trying to go for purple coolant, hence the blue fluid and red concentrate. If i cant get the color the way i like, ill stick with just blue. 

 

 

I appreciate the feedback/comments.

 

Thank you. 

Screenshot (59).png

Screenshot (60).png

 

 

 

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Idk if that GPU block would go on, that's an FE block on an aftermarket card. EK Duraclear isn't really amazing soft tubeing so I'd swap it for Mayhems ultra clear(and not Advanced  LRT) because it has a very slight blue tiny where as LRT has a yellow tint. The coolstream SE rads aren't amazing cooling performance either(I say, haveing one in the top of my build lol) but they aren't straight up a disaster. Again the Titan backplate I don't know if it will go on either. Also your PSU probably came with that short you are spending $2.5 on so check that before you get it. Idk what pump that is, but if its an EK Dc then get something else because they are extremely loud. Personally I'd get heatkiller blocks all around because they perform better, and also IMO look better. Other than that it looks pretty good

I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play no games atm & watch anime at 1080p(finally) watch YT and write essays...  nothing, it just sits there collecting dust...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

Spoiler

"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

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I would change the tubing to 10/16mm tube because it is thicker and doesn’t kink the 7/16x5/8 you picked is thin wall tubing and you may have kinking problems on sharp turns. I have the non rgb D5 pwm pump/reservoir combo from EK get the combo instead of the separate reservoir pump setup. I have used it on several builds it’s NOT noisy. I also have used the advanced LRT tubing on several builds and it’s crystal clear the older version may have had a slight tint to it but not now. Yes double check the GPU block compatibility as I believe you specified the wrong one along with the backplate. 

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The slim rad id change out for a hardware labs one the same size,The 480 are you going to push pull it ?

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5 hours ago, andrewmp6 said:

The slim rad id change out for a hardware labs one the same size,The 480 are you going to push pull it ?

Yes, push pull. 

 

 

 

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6 hours ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

Idk if that GPU block would go on, that's an FE block on an aftermarket card. EK Duraclear isn't really amazing soft tubeing so I'd swap it for Mayhems ultra clear(and not Advanced  LRT) because it has a very slight blue tiny where as LRT has a yellow tint. The coolstream SE rads aren't amazing cooling performance either(I say, haveing one in the top of my build lol) but they aren't straight up a disaster. Again the Titan backplate I don't know if it will go on either. Also your PSU probably came with that short you are spending $2.5 on so check that before you get it. Idk what pump that is, but if its an EK Dc then get something else because they are extremely loud. Personally I'd get heatkiller blocks all around because they perform better, and also IMO look better. Other than that it looks pretty good

I’ll look into your tubing and rad suggestions, thank you.

 

As for the blocks, according to EK’s compatibility chart, the EVGA 1080 ti sc2 is “visually compatable”. Problem is, no one makes specific sc2 blocks so you have to find something that will fit, usually fe blocks. Even if the GPU market wasn’t horrible right now, I can’t get a ftw3 (which there are specific blocks for) since it doesn’t fit properly with the reservoir mount in this case. 

 

 

 

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6 hours ago, Stevebit56 said:

I would change the tubing to 10/16mm tube because it is thicker and doesn’t kink the 7/16x5/8 you picked is thin wall tubing and you may have kinking problems on sharp turns. I have the non rgb D5 pwm pump/reservoir combo from EK get the combo instead of the separate reservoir pump setup. I have used it on several builds it’s NOT noisy. I also have used the advanced LRT tubing on several builds and it’s crystal clear the older version may have had a slight tint to it but not now. Yes double check the GPU block compatibility as I believe you specified the wrong one along with the backplate. 

Thank you, I’ll look into thicker tubing.

 

Not sure I want the res/pump combo since it’s not extremely visually appealing and doesn’t have rgb. For the amount invested into this system, aesthetics are pretty important to me. Not to mention my case has a dedicated mounting place for a pump in the back making it easier to hide away the pump and drain valve. 

 

 

 

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6 hours ago, Stevebit56 said:

 I also have used the advanced LRT tubing on several builds and it’s crystal clear the older version may have had a slight tint to it but not now.

got some pics? would be nice to know i can recomend it for anything thats not in the red/yellow/orange side of the color spectrum :) i can say that Mayhems Ultra clear definatly has a very slight blue tint, but its also dirt cheap and IMO pretty great btw

I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play no games atm & watch anime at 1080p(finally) watch YT and write essays...  nothing, it just sits there collecting dust...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

Spoiler

"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

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3 hours ago, Prqnk3d said:

if you're going push pull on the 480 you probably wont need the 240

Hmm, ok. Other than cost, I can’t think of a reason not to include the 240, so if I need to shave off some money from the build, I’ll look there first.

 

What I am curious about though is, would having the 240 increase performance or just be a fancy looking paper weight? Would it be a minuscule 1-2 degree difference or a more significant difference, like 5-10 degrees? 

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, mattias1172 said:

Hmm, ok. Other than cost, I can’t think of a reason not to include the 240, so if I need to shave off some money from the build, I’ll look there first.

 

What I am curious about though is, would having the 240 increase performance or just be a fancy looking paper weight? Would it be a minuscule 1-2 degree difference or a more significant difference, like 5-10 degrees? 

wouldn't make much of a difference temp wise. you would be able to run your fans a bit slower though

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Gonna make a purple coolant or two loops?

Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 9900k, ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero, G.Skill Ripjaws 3600 32GB, 3090FE, EVGA 1000G5, Acer Nitro XZ3 2560 x 1440@240hz 

 

Spare RIg Lian Li O11 AIR MINI, I7 4790K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 2400 32Gb, EVGA 1080ti, 1080sc 1070sc & 1060 SSC, EVGA 850GA, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz

 

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Just now, Mick Naughty said:

Gonna make a purple coolant or two loops?

I'm going to try to get a shade of purple i like. If i can't, its going to be blue. 

 

 

 

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Alright, after making a few changes:

 

According to EK's compatibility chart, the GPU block/backplate should work with my card. 

 

Screenshot (60).png

Screenshot (61).png

Screenshot (62).png

 

 

 

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