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some soldering work will do

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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(As somebody who works in a place that does lots of this kind of thing) The answer is that it can almost always be fixed.  the bigger question is "is it worth fixing".

 

Realistically though, either get a new header and solder it on or just bypass the connector outright and solder the wires to the PCB.  Not sure what that old ATI card is out of but thats some older hardware that your playing with there.

My Computers:

Gaming Rig: Asus B550-M Gaming, R9-5900X, Corsair 64GB DDR4 3000, Zotac RTX 3070

Laptop: Asus ROG Strix 17" Scar 3,  i7-9750H, GTX 1660 Ti

 

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You could probably also find an adapter cable and run the fan off a different power source.

If you're interested in a product please download and read the manual first.

Don't forget to tag or quote in your reply if you want me to know you've answered or have another question.

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If you're interested in a product please download and read the manual first.

Don't forget to tag or quote in your reply if you want me to know you've answered or have another question.

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1 hour ago, Jrdiver said:

(As somebody who works in a place that does lots of this kind of thing) The answer is that it can almost always be fixed.  the bigger question is "is it worth fixing".

 

Realistically though, either get a new header and solder it on or just bypass the connector outright and solder the wires to the PCB.  Not sure what that old ATI card is out of but thats some older hardware that your playing with there.

It’s a He 5450 was replacing the cooler from another 5450 because that cooler on it in the pic is the new cooler and it’s 100% better... it’s an older gpu and if I break it I could care less it was $5 so meh

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