Blue screen and pc wont boot

[0x1e]

5 hours ago, VeloOsu said:

System powers up when i press the power button. But I noticed that I only got into the bios after pulling the CMOS battery as I cant acess the bios by just pressing the MemOK! button. Although someone by the name of Ixi on the LTT discord serve said I shouldnt reset the CMOS by pulling the battery, Although it was the only way i could get into the bios. When in the bios I had it freeze on me a couple of times and when in there i never knew what to do and when it restarted I couldnt get into the bios. I also wiped my C drive try to install Windows again from an USB but it froze when i got to the purple screen, as well as bluescreened another time with the same CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT stop code.

Forget Windows.

If you crash in bios then you have far bigger problems, and installing Windows will solve nothing.

 

Unplug the machine.Pull the cmos battery out. Wait a minute then put it back in.

While the battery is out remove a stick of RAM. There should be a sticker on it saying your speed, timings and volts. Something like 10-12-10-30 2T 3000Mhz 1.35V.

Put the ram back in and then put the battery back.

Turn the system on, go into bios and input those timings and volts that are on the RAM. Leave the speed at 2133Mhz.

Save and exit.

See if you can now reboot.

[bisufps]

23 minutes ago, 0x1e said:

Forget Windows.

If you crash in bios then you have far bigger problems, and installing Windows will solve nothing.

 

Unplug the machine.Pull the cmos battery out. Wait a minute then put it back in.

While the battery is out remove a stick of RAM. There should be a sticker on it saying your speed, timings and volts. Something like 10-12-10-30 2T 3000Mhz 1.35V.

Put the ram back in and then put the battery back.

Turn the system on, go into bios and input those timings and volts that are on the RAM. Leave the speed at 2133Mhz.

Save and exit.

See if you can now reboot.

Wouldn't the MemOK! button already fix the ram issue? Also I noticed you tell me to pull the CMOS battery but Ixi told me not to, do you know any reason to why not pulling the CMOS battery would be a better idea?

[0x1e]

1 minute ago, VeloOsu said:

Wouldn't the MemOK! button already fix the ram issue? Also I noticed you tell me to pull the CMOS battery but Ixi told me not to, do you know any reason to why not pulling the CMOS battery would be a better idea?

In my experience MemOK is worthless. It goes through preconfigured memory settings.

If no settings there work for you, then it won't work.

 

There's no harm in pulling the battery.

[bisufps]

Just now, 0x1e said:

In my experience MemOK is worthless. It goes through preconfigured memory settings.

If no settings there work for you, then it won't work.

 

There's no harm in pulling the battery.

Just what I thought. Pulling the battery wouldn't do any harm, but doesnt MemOK go on what your Ram really needs? Otherwise it seems like a pretty damn worthless feature.

[0x1e]

9 hours ago, VeloOsu said:

Just what I thought. Pulling the battery wouldn't do any harm, but doesnt MemOK go on what your Ram really needs? Otherwise it seems like a pretty damn worthless feature.

MemOK is not a "smart" feature. Asus put in the numbers before hand and it uses those.

It uses the slowest frequency possible, and each time uses more and more lose timings until the system boots. Pretty useless.

[Tosa]

Maybe the RAM is defective? If you have more than one stick, try removing the first one. Otherwise, try moving the stick to different slots, and if you can get your hands on another memory stick, try that.

[bisufps]

8 hours ago, Tosa said:

Maybe the RAM is defective? If you have more than one stick, try removing the first one. Otherwise, try moving the stick to different slots, and if you can get your hands on another memory stick, try that.

 

20 hours ago, 0x1e said:

MemOK is not a "smart" feature. Asus put in the numbers before hand and it uses those.

It uses the slowest frequency possible, and each time uses more and more lose timings until the system boots. Pretty useless.

So, ive tried swapping ram (but not from another kit) and keep trying to get to the bios. Even when pulling the CMOS battery i can't get there no more. I've tried not using a GPU and tried with another GPU, So Im certain it's either the Motherboard, CPU or RAM. All of which was purchased about six months ago which means all of those components are still with in warranty.

[0x1e]

3 hours ago, VeloOsu said:

 

So, ive tried swapping ram (but not from another it) and keep trying to get to the bios. Even when pulling the CMOS battery i can't get there no more. I've tried not using a GPU and tried with another GPU, So Im certain it's either the Motherboard, CPU or RAM. All of which was purchased about six months ago which means all of those components are still with in warranty.

I would point the finger at the motherboard.

Do you have a motherboard speaker or post code?

[bisufps]

4 hours ago, 0x1e said:

I would point the finger at the motherboard.

Do you have a motherboard speaker or post code?

Sadly I do not have any of that as the Asus prime board only have different coloured lights. (i also edit the last post where i meant to spell "kit", instead of "it".)

[0x1e]

1 hour ago, VeloOsu said:

Sadly I do not have any of that as the Asus prime board only have different coloured lights. (i also edit the last post where i meant to spell "kit", instead of "it".)

Do any of those lights show up?

If they light up then turn off then it's normal. During the post the ones being lit up and being tested. If it stays on then it shows where the problem is.

After post they should all turn off.

 

The only one this doesn't help with is RAM. RAM could light up, however it could actually be the IMC which is apart of the CPU.

[bisufps]

17 hours ago, 0x1e said:

Do any of those lights show up?

If they light up then turn off then it's normal. During the post the ones being lit up and being tested. If it stays on then it shows where the problem is.

After post they should all turn off.

 

The only one this doesn't help with is RAM. RAM could light up, however it could actually be the IMC which is apart of the CPU.

The lights flash but then a white light continues to glow, although i gotta check the manual what light that is and what it means. (EDIT: So the white LED is the VGA light and it keeps it from posting then I suppose. Im not sure how to fix ut though, as it shows the VGA light.)

(EDIT 2: So I tried another PCIE slot and it didn't help either. It's the VGA POST light that stays on, but I do not know how to fix that, as even without anysort of gpu it stays on.)

[0x1e]

9 hours ago, VeloOsu said:

The lights flash but then a white light continues to glow, although i gotta check the manual what light that is and what it means. (EDIT: So the white LED is the VGA light and it keeps it from posting then I suppose. Im not sure how to fix ut though, as it shows the VGA light.)

(EDIT 2: So I tried another PCIE slot and it didn't help either. It's the VGA POST light that stays on, but I do not know how to fix that, as even without anysort of gpu it stays on.)

Do you have another GPU?

Have you removed the GPU then removed the Cmos battery, replaced the battery then booted without a GPU?
The display cable should then be plugged into the motherboard.

[bisufps]

4 minutes ago, 0x1e said:

Do you have another GPU?

Have you removed the GPU then removed the Cmos battery, replaced the battery then booted without a GPU?
The display cable should then be plugged into the motherboard.

I think i've done that, I've pulled out my 1060 and replaced with an older 760 and tried that, pulling out the cmos battery in between swapping them. I think I also tried pulling the gpu and cmos battery and going directly to the motherboard. I also tried another PCI slot so. I'll try again tomorrow but so far no success, although I know all my GPU's are in fine working conditions.

[0x1e]

1 hour ago, VeloOsu said:

I think i've done that, I've pulled out my 1060 and replaced with an older 760 and tried that, pulling out the cmos battery in between swapping them. I think I also tried pulling the gpu and cmos battery and going directly to the motherboard. I also tried another PCI slot so. I'll try again tomorrow but so far no success, although I know all my GPU's are in fine working conditions.

I would say the motherboard is toast at this point.

The only other thing that would do this is the CPU. However faulty CPUs are extremely rare. You're talking about a percent of a percent.

Unless if you overclocked it. Then it could be a different story.

[bisufps]

Just now, 0x1e said:

I would say the motherboard is toast at this point.

The only other thing that would do this is the CPU. However faulty CPUs are extremely rare. You're talking about a percent of a percent.

Unless if you overclocked it. Then it could be a different story.

I didn't overclock it, although I had plans to. Well I guess the motherboard could be the only faulty thing at this point.

[bisufps]

On 02/12/2017 at 2:56 AM, 0x1e said:

I would say the motherboard is toast at this point.

The only other thing that would do this is the CPU. However faulty CPUs are extremely rare. You're talking about a percent of a percent.

Unless if you overclocked it. Then it could be a different story.

Ok i gave the motherboard to the retailer i got it from and they trouble shooted it and told me there was nothing wrong with it, how come this happen?

[0x1e]

20 hours ago, VeloOsu said:

Ok i gave the motherboard to the retailer i got it from and they trouble shooted it and told me there was nothing wrong with it, how come this happen?

Ok.

Did they tell you how they decided that it works?

Did it boot, or did it get to Windows and left to do something for X time?

 

It can't be the RAM. You had the system stable for 3 months? RAM is either DOA or works "forever". Unless if it's OC'ed.

I don't think it's the CPU. The CPU is so heavily protected that it's either DOA or works "forever" again. Unless if it's OC'ed.

Unlikely to be the GPU. Having two GPU's die at once is next to impossible, unless if the motherboard was killing them. That does happen.

 

That leaves us with

 

The motherboard is so exposed and complicated that it can gain faults over time.

The PSU. It can be the one causing this. PSU's are built differently by different companies. Some are far superior than others. However, it doesn't matter how good they are, they all fall eventually. My corsair 860i is a good PSU that I've had for years. However now it has coil whine because I've been pushing it hard for a long time.

However that is what a good PSU is supposed to do. Give you hints that it's going to die, rather than die suddenly and take everything with it. Which again, does happen.

You were resetting the motherboard by pulling the battery. However maybe that was giving the PSU time to also reset?

 

If that the techs were saying is true, that the motherboard works then the only other thing that I believe would cause this, is the PSU.

 

CPU wouldn't randomly stop working after 3 months. It would first show signs, like many BSOD's. However would most likely not work at all from day one.

RAM would show BSOD's first. However you have more that one stick. I'm sure you've tried one stick at a time? The likely hood of both dying together is slim to none. Again it would most likely not work from day one.

HDD / SSD wouldn't effect you at all at this stage.

A motherboard is very hard to diagnose. You have no way of actually testing a motherboard. It instead throws it's problems onto something else.

The same with the PSU.

 

Are you able to place your PSU into another system? The bigger the load the better.

[bisufps]

8 hours ago, 0x1e said:

Ok.

Did they tell you how they decided that it works?

Did it boot, or did it get to Windows and left to do something for X time?

 

It can't be the RAM. You had the system stable for 3 months? RAM is either DOA or works "forever". Unless if it's OC'ed.

I don't think it's the CPU. The CPU is so heavily protected that it's either DOA or works "forever" again. Unless if it's OC'ed.

Unlikely to be the GPU. Having two GPU's die at once is next to impossible, unless if the motherboard was killing them. That does happen.

 

That leaves us with

 

The motherboard is so exposed and complicated that it can gain faults over time.

The PSU. It can be the one causing this. PSU's are built differently by different companies. Some are far superior than others. However, it doesn't matter how good they are, they all fall eventually. My corsair 860i is a good PSU that I've had for years. However now it has coil whine because I've been pushing it hard for a long time.

However that is what a good PSU is supposed to do. Give you hints that it's going to die, rather than die suddenly and take everything with it. Which again, does happen.

You were resetting the motherboard by pulling the battery. However maybe that was giving the PSU time to also reset?

 

If that the techs were saying is true, that the motherboard works then the only other thing that I believe would cause this, is the PSU.

 

CPU wouldn't randomly stop working after 3 months. It would first show signs, like many BSOD's. However would most likely not work at all from day one.

RAM would show BSOD's first. However you have more that one stick. I'm sure you've tried one stick at a time? The likely hood of both dying together is slim to none. Again it would most likely not work from day one.

HDD / SSD wouldn't effect you at all at this stage.

A motherboard is very hard to diagnose. You have no way of actually testing a motherboard. It instead throws it's problems onto something else.

The same with the PSU.

 

Are you able to place your PSU into another system? The bigger the load the better.

Ok so i got my motherboard back in the pc again and i got it to post sort of as i got to bios but it froze again, and I only got to the bios when I pulled the CMOS battery as I used to. Sadly I do not have my hands on another power supply and I've essentially tried everything else, that we've both came up with. I'm very confused to why the the pc stopped working, especifically after the BSOD, as i havent had any other major trouble with it before.

 

I've had the system running smoothly for about 5 months or so which is why im confused to why it stopped working due to what you said about parts not working from the get go or working "forever". I'm curious about how the PSU could possibly cause a POST VGA error. It should be doing fine as i haven't had it for too long, but if it is the PSU I guess i get what I pay for as it just is a Corsair CX500M. I can't do much more than I've already done so im concidering turning my pc into a trouble shooting service in hopes of them figuring it out, although it could just be the PSU but I'd rather not take the risk and go out and buy a PSU for nothing.

 

What would you say is the best option? Turning it in for trouble shooting and then go from what they say or buy a new PSU?

[0x1e]

On 12/6/2017 at 9:54 PM, VeloOsu said:

Ok so i got my motherboard back in the pc again and i got it to post sort of as i got to bios but it froze again, and I only got to the bios when I pulled the CMOS battery as I used to. Sadly I do not have my hands on another power supply and I've essentially tried everything else, that we've both came up with. I'm very confused to why the the pc stopped working, especifically after the BSOD, as i havent had any other major trouble with it before.

 

I've had the system running smoothly for about 5 months or so which is why im confused to why it stopped working due to what you said about parts not working from the get go or working "forever". I'm curious about how the PSU could possibly cause a POST VGA error. It should be doing fine as i haven't had it for too long, but if it is the PSU I guess i get what I pay for as it just is a Corsair CX500M. I can't do much more than I've already done so im concidering turning my pc into a trouble shooting service in hopes of them figuring it out, although it could just be the PSU but I'd rather not take the risk and go out and buy a PSU for nothing.

 

What would you say is the best option? Turning it in for trouble shooting and then go from what they say or buy a new PSU?

Sorry for the very late reply. Work and my own upgrades have been eating all of my time.

A PSU can give POST error messages by at least 2 different scenarios from the top of my head.

1, The PSU is not delivering any power, or not enough power.

2, the PSU is delivering dirty power.

 

People mistake that lighting and a GPU fan spinning means your PSU is working correctly and so the problem is elsewhere. Actually the lighting and fan power comes from the motherboard, not the 6 / 8 pin. So all that shows you is that the 24 pin works somewhat.

If the GPU is not receiving any power, or not enough then it then it can spit out a few errors. From not posting to artifacts.

 

Dirty power can show all the same symptoms however the consequences can be far more punishing to the GPU and to the end user.

Over time dirty power (or ripple as it's also known) will eventually kill the component.

This one "feature" is what separates good PSU's from bad ones, the most.

 

 

Buying a good quality PSU can be expensive, especially when you start going over Gold (I personally don't consider anything under Platinum) so it would be an expensive guess so buy a new PSU.

Are you able to take the PC into a repair shop and let them diagnose it?

It would be the easiest and cheapest option at this point. It shouldn't take long. To tear a PC apart and test components on a bench takes a few hours at most.

[bisufps]

On 10/12/2017 at 7:24 PM, 0x1e said:

Sorry for the very late reply. Work and my own upgrades have been eating all of my time.

A PSU can give POST error messages by at least 2 different scenarios from the top of my head.

1, The PSU is not delivering any power, or not enough power.

2, the PSU is delivering dirty power.

 

People mistake that lighting and a GPU fan spinning means your PSU is working correctly and so the problem is elsewhere. Actually the lighting and fan power comes from the motherboard, not the 6 / 8 pin. So all that shows you is that the 24 pin works somewhat.

If the GPU is not receiving any power, or not enough then it then it can spit out a few errors. From not posting to artifacts.

 

Dirty power can show all the same symptoms however the consequences can be far more punishing to the GPU and to the end user.

Over time dirty power (or ripple as it's also known) will eventually kill the component.

This one "feature" is what separates good PSU's from bad ones, the most.

 

 

Buying a good quality PSU can be expensive, especially when you start going over Gold (I personally don't consider anything under Platinum) so it would be an expensive guess so buy a new PSU.

Are you able to take the PC into a repair shop and let them diagnose it?

It would be the easiest and cheapest option at this point. It shouldn't take long. To tear a PC apart and test components on a bench takes a few hours at most.

Sorry for not having any sort of response as i lacked hope for my pc. In the end, the CPU had failed and the retailer stated that i had physically damaged the CPU which makes no sense as i have not been in much physical contact with it at all. Which means it's not covered by any sort of warranty. The problem came up when installing a driver for my GPU, not having anysort of physical contact with it. I even bought a new PSU to try and fix this, but it was to no use of course. I will not accept this answer yet as I have yet to speak to the retailer in person and will try to claim a new CPU as I have not done anything to damage it or void the warranty. Thank you for your time and help, it was very much appriciated and it even tought me some new things.

Sincerely, Velo.