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top powerline adapters for gaming?

charbel1011

I have used several powerline units through the years, with mixed feelings. What's positive is that they have been consistently getting better as newer models came out. A lot depends on your house's wiring and circuits. If there is no interference then it could work pretty decent.

 

The latest model I've been using is the European version of this:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Pass-through-TL-PA9020P-KIT/dp/B01H74VKZU

 

It's the best performer I've had so far. It has several QoS options and one of them is "Online Gaming". I mainly use mine for Steam Link (streaming games from my PC to the living room TV) and it has been working great so far. I wouldn't use it for competitive gaming, but if you don't mind a little added delay (like 2-3ms) and some random hiccups you can game just fine. Much better than using Wi-Fi, just don't expect it to be as solid as an Ethernet connection. 

 
~ Specs bellow ~
 
 
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit [UEFI]
CPU: Intel i7-5820k Haswell-E @ 4.5-4.7Ghz (1.366-1.431V) | CPU COOLER: Corsair H110 280mm AIO w/ 2x Noctua NF-A14 IPPC-2000 IP67 | RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 32Gb (8x4Gb) DDR4 @ 2666mhz CL15 | MOBO: MSI X99S Gaming 7 ATX | GPU: MSI GTX 1080 Gaming (flashed "X") @ 2138-2151Mhz (locked 1.093V) | PSU: Corsair HX850i 850W 80+ Platinum | SSD's: Samsung Pro 950 256Gb & Samsung Evo 850 500Gb | HDD: WD Black Series 6Tb + 3Tb | AUDIO: Realtek ALC1150 HD Audio | CASE: NZXT Phantom 530 | MONITOR: LG 34UC79G 34" 2560x1080p @144hz & BenQ XL2411Z 24" 1080p @144hz | SPEAKERS: Logitech Z-5450 Digital 5.1 Speaker System | HEADSET: Sennheiser GSP 350 | KEYBOARD: Corsair Strafe MX Cherry Red | MOUSE: Razer Deathadder Chroma | UPS: PowerWalker VI 2000 LCD
 
Mac Pro 2,1 (flashed) OS X 10.11.6 El Capitan 64-bit (NAS, Plex, HTTP Server, Game Servers) [R.I.P]
CPUs: 2x Intel Xeon X5365 @ 3.3Ghz (FSB OC) | RAM: OWC 16Gb (8x2Gb) ECC-FB DDR2 @ 1333mhz | GPU: AMD HD5870 (flashed) | HDDs: WD Black Series 3Tb, 2x WD Black Series 1Tb, WD Blue 2Tb | UPS: Fortron EP1000
 
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1 minute ago, SaladFingers said:

I have used several powerline units through the years, with mixed feelings. What's positive is that they have been consistently getting better as newer models came out. A lot depends on your house's wiring and circuits. If there is no interference then it could work pretty decent.

 

The latest model I've been using is the European version of this:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Pass-through-TL-PA9020P-KIT/dp/B01H74VKZU

 

It's the best performer I've had so far. It has several QoS options and one of them is "Online Gaming". I mainly use mine for Steam Link (streaming games from my PC to the living room TV) and it has been working great so far. I wouldn't use it for competitive gaming, but if you don't mind a little added delay (like 2-3ms) and some random hiccups you can game just fine. Much better than using Wi-Fi, just don't expect it to be as solid as an Ethernet connection. 

So it's not good like ethernet connection? because now im using wifi i mean with wifi my ping is good but my bullets are not registering at all. i tried once ethernet cable and it was much better but since i live in my uncle's house he don't like any visible cables or any drilling so i don't know what should i do

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4 minutes ago, charbel1011 said:

So it's not good like ethernet connection? because now im using wifi i mean with wifi my ping is good but my bullets are not registering at all. i tried once ethernet cable and it was much better but since i live in my uncle's house he don't like any visible cables or any drilling so i don't know what should i do

It's not as good as ethernet, sadly. But it is much better than it used to be and definitely better than using Wi-Fi. The added latency shouldn't be a huge issue (could even be lower than 1ms depending on the wiring) but there are those times when a random electricity spike or whatever else can cause random hiccups/stutters. Again, shouldn't be a big issue, but if you're playing competitive, twitchy games and it happens at the wrong time it can be very annoying.

 
~ Specs bellow ~
 
 
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit [UEFI]
CPU: Intel i7-5820k Haswell-E @ 4.5-4.7Ghz (1.366-1.431V) | CPU COOLER: Corsair H110 280mm AIO w/ 2x Noctua NF-A14 IPPC-2000 IP67 | RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 32Gb (8x4Gb) DDR4 @ 2666mhz CL15 | MOBO: MSI X99S Gaming 7 ATX | GPU: MSI GTX 1080 Gaming (flashed "X") @ 2138-2151Mhz (locked 1.093V) | PSU: Corsair HX850i 850W 80+ Platinum | SSD's: Samsung Pro 950 256Gb & Samsung Evo 850 500Gb | HDD: WD Black Series 6Tb + 3Tb | AUDIO: Realtek ALC1150 HD Audio | CASE: NZXT Phantom 530 | MONITOR: LG 34UC79G 34" 2560x1080p @144hz & BenQ XL2411Z 24" 1080p @144hz | SPEAKERS: Logitech Z-5450 Digital 5.1 Speaker System | HEADSET: Sennheiser GSP 350 | KEYBOARD: Corsair Strafe MX Cherry Red | MOUSE: Razer Deathadder Chroma | UPS: PowerWalker VI 2000 LCD
 
Mac Pro 2,1 (flashed) OS X 10.11.6 El Capitan 64-bit (NAS, Plex, HTTP Server, Game Servers) [R.I.P]
CPUs: 2x Intel Xeon X5365 @ 3.3Ghz (FSB OC) | RAM: OWC 16Gb (8x2Gb) ECC-FB DDR2 @ 1333mhz | GPU: AMD HD5870 (flashed) | HDDs: WD Black Series 3Tb, 2x WD Black Series 1Tb, WD Blue 2Tb | UPS: Fortron EP1000
 
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3 minutes ago, SaladFingers said:

It's not as good as ethernet, sadly. But it is much better than it used to be and definitely better than using Wi-Fi. The added latency shouldn't be a huge issue (could even be lower than 1ms depending on the wiring) but there are those times when a random electricity spike or whatever else can cause random hiccups/stutters. Again, shouldn't be a big issue, but if you're playing competitive, twitchy games and it happens at the wrong time it can be very annoying.

is there any latency while using wifi? 

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4 minutes ago, charbel1011 said:

is there any latency while using wifi? 

Yes. Wireless can be anywhere around 3-10ms added latency depending on signal quality.

 
~ Specs bellow ~
 
 
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit [UEFI]
CPU: Intel i7-5820k Haswell-E @ 4.5-4.7Ghz (1.366-1.431V) | CPU COOLER: Corsair H110 280mm AIO w/ 2x Noctua NF-A14 IPPC-2000 IP67 | RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 32Gb (8x4Gb) DDR4 @ 2666mhz CL15 | MOBO: MSI X99S Gaming 7 ATX | GPU: MSI GTX 1080 Gaming (flashed "X") @ 2138-2151Mhz (locked 1.093V) | PSU: Corsair HX850i 850W 80+ Platinum | SSD's: Samsung Pro 950 256Gb & Samsung Evo 850 500Gb | HDD: WD Black Series 6Tb + 3Tb | AUDIO: Realtek ALC1150 HD Audio | CASE: NZXT Phantom 530 | MONITOR: LG 34UC79G 34" 2560x1080p @144hz & BenQ XL2411Z 24" 1080p @144hz | SPEAKERS: Logitech Z-5450 Digital 5.1 Speaker System | HEADSET: Sennheiser GSP 350 | KEYBOARD: Corsair Strafe MX Cherry Red | MOUSE: Razer Deathadder Chroma | UPS: PowerWalker VI 2000 LCD
 
Mac Pro 2,1 (flashed) OS X 10.11.6 El Capitan 64-bit (NAS, Plex, HTTP Server, Game Servers) [R.I.P]
CPUs: 2x Intel Xeon X5365 @ 3.3Ghz (FSB OC) | RAM: OWC 16Gb (8x2Gb) ECC-FB DDR2 @ 1333mhz | GPU: AMD HD5870 (flashed) | HDDs: WD Black Series 3Tb, 2x WD Black Series 1Tb, WD Blue 2Tb | UPS: Fortron EP1000
 
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5 minutes ago, charbel1011 said:

is there any latency while using wifi? 

WiFi generally has the highest latency then the other alternatives. 

I just want to sit back and watch the world burn. 

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s

3 minutes ago, SaladFingers said:

Yes. Wireless can be anywhere around 3-10ms added latency depending on signal quality.

So the power adapter will be the best option for me to have a good decent gaming

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Just now, charbel1011 said:

s

So the power adapter will be the best option for me to have a good decent gaming

Let's just say that if going fully Ethernet is not an option, then using a powerline is your next best bet. Any issues you might have with it are usually worse with Wi-Fi, both latency and stutter wise. 

 
~ Specs bellow ~
 
 
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit [UEFI]
CPU: Intel i7-5820k Haswell-E @ 4.5-4.7Ghz (1.366-1.431V) | CPU COOLER: Corsair H110 280mm AIO w/ 2x Noctua NF-A14 IPPC-2000 IP67 | RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 32Gb (8x4Gb) DDR4 @ 2666mhz CL15 | MOBO: MSI X99S Gaming 7 ATX | GPU: MSI GTX 1080 Gaming (flashed "X") @ 2138-2151Mhz (locked 1.093V) | PSU: Corsair HX850i 850W 80+ Platinum | SSD's: Samsung Pro 950 256Gb & Samsung Evo 850 500Gb | HDD: WD Black Series 6Tb + 3Tb | AUDIO: Realtek ALC1150 HD Audio | CASE: NZXT Phantom 530 | MONITOR: LG 34UC79G 34" 2560x1080p @144hz & BenQ XL2411Z 24" 1080p @144hz | SPEAKERS: Logitech Z-5450 Digital 5.1 Speaker System | HEADSET: Sennheiser GSP 350 | KEYBOARD: Corsair Strafe MX Cherry Red | MOUSE: Razer Deathadder Chroma | UPS: PowerWalker VI 2000 LCD
 
Mac Pro 2,1 (flashed) OS X 10.11.6 El Capitan 64-bit (NAS, Plex, HTTP Server, Game Servers) [R.I.P]
CPUs: 2x Intel Xeon X5365 @ 3.3Ghz (FSB OC) | RAM: OWC 16Gb (8x2Gb) ECC-FB DDR2 @ 1333mhz | GPU: AMD HD5870 (flashed) | HDDs: WD Black Series 3Tb, 2x WD Black Series 1Tb, WD Blue 2Tb | UPS: Fortron EP1000
 
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I have used this model from TP-Link:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4?th=1

I found it to be quite effective and until I went to school, it solved my wireless signal issues. The only issue I had is that it rarely, around once every two weeks or maybe once a week, would randomly drop connection. This would require me to reset one of the two adapters by disconnecting it from the wall and reconnecting it. I noticed at one point, that it seemed a particular one of the adapters had a propensity for dropping signal. If this was truly the case, it might have been an isolated issue for me. Outside of that, I found that the adapter worked flawlessly. I wish you good luck in your search.

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5 minutes ago, SaladFingers said:

Let's just say that if going fully Ethernet is not an option, then using a powerline is your next best bet. Any issues you might have with it are usually worse with Wi-Fi, both latency and stutter wise. 

Buddy i noticed something. that there's a plug at the front of the adapter what's it for? https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Pass-through-TL-PA9020P-KIT/dp/B01H74VKZU?tag=linus21-20

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One last thing to note is to check if you have single-phase or triple-phase and make sure the PLC will support it if it's the latter. Most modern PLCs will.

 
~ Specs bellow ~
 
 
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit [UEFI]
CPU: Intel i7-5820k Haswell-E @ 4.5-4.7Ghz (1.366-1.431V) | CPU COOLER: Corsair H110 280mm AIO w/ 2x Noctua NF-A14 IPPC-2000 IP67 | RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 32Gb (8x4Gb) DDR4 @ 2666mhz CL15 | MOBO: MSI X99S Gaming 7 ATX | GPU: MSI GTX 1080 Gaming (flashed "X") @ 2138-2151Mhz (locked 1.093V) | PSU: Corsair HX850i 850W 80+ Platinum | SSD's: Samsung Pro 950 256Gb & Samsung Evo 850 500Gb | HDD: WD Black Series 6Tb + 3Tb | AUDIO: Realtek ALC1150 HD Audio | CASE: NZXT Phantom 530 | MONITOR: LG 34UC79G 34" 2560x1080p @144hz & BenQ XL2411Z 24" 1080p @144hz | SPEAKERS: Logitech Z-5450 Digital 5.1 Speaker System | HEADSET: Sennheiser GSP 350 | KEYBOARD: Corsair Strafe MX Cherry Red | MOUSE: Razer Deathadder Chroma | UPS: PowerWalker VI 2000 LCD
 
Mac Pro 2,1 (flashed) OS X 10.11.6 El Capitan 64-bit (NAS, Plex, HTTP Server, Game Servers) [R.I.P]
CPUs: 2x Intel Xeon X5365 @ 3.3Ghz (FSB OC) | RAM: OWC 16Gb (8x2Gb) ECC-FB DDR2 @ 1333mhz | GPU: AMD HD5870 (flashed) | HDDs: WD Black Series 3Tb, 2x WD Black Series 1Tb, WD Blue 2Tb | UPS: Fortron EP1000
 
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Just now, charbel1011 said:

Buddy i noticed something. that there's a plug at the front of the adapter what's it for? https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Pass-through-TL-PA9020P-KIT/dp/B01H74VKZU?tag=linus21-20

The extra port simply makes it so that you do not lose the power port in that location. It in no way should affect the performance of the adapter.

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7 minutes ago, SaladFingers said:

Let's just say that if going fully Ethernet is not an option, then using a powerline is your next best bet. Any issues you might have with it are usually worse with Wi-Fi, both latency and stutter wise. 

I would say Moca is a better standard as it uses Coax which is designed a little more with data in mind. While power cables are not shielded properly for data. On my scale I would go Ethernet, Moca, Powerline and WiFI. 

I just want to sit back and watch the world burn. 

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1 minute ago, charbel1011 said:

Buddy i noticed something. that there's a plug at the front of the adapter what's it for? https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Pass-through-TL-PA9020P-KIT/dp/B01H74VKZU?tag=linus21-20

It's a pass-through for using your wall outlet normally while using your PLC at the same time.

 
~ Specs bellow ~
 
 
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit [UEFI]
CPU: Intel i7-5820k Haswell-E @ 4.5-4.7Ghz (1.366-1.431V) | CPU COOLER: Corsair H110 280mm AIO w/ 2x Noctua NF-A14 IPPC-2000 IP67 | RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 32Gb (8x4Gb) DDR4 @ 2666mhz CL15 | MOBO: MSI X99S Gaming 7 ATX | GPU: MSI GTX 1080 Gaming (flashed "X") @ 2138-2151Mhz (locked 1.093V) | PSU: Corsair HX850i 850W 80+ Platinum | SSD's: Samsung Pro 950 256Gb & Samsung Evo 850 500Gb | HDD: WD Black Series 6Tb + 3Tb | AUDIO: Realtek ALC1150 HD Audio | CASE: NZXT Phantom 530 | MONITOR: LG 34UC79G 34" 2560x1080p @144hz & BenQ XL2411Z 24" 1080p @144hz | SPEAKERS: Logitech Z-5450 Digital 5.1 Speaker System | HEADSET: Sennheiser GSP 350 | KEYBOARD: Corsair Strafe MX Cherry Red | MOUSE: Razer Deathadder Chroma | UPS: PowerWalker VI 2000 LCD
 
Mac Pro 2,1 (flashed) OS X 10.11.6 El Capitan 64-bit (NAS, Plex, HTTP Server, Game Servers) [R.I.P]
CPUs: 2x Intel Xeon X5365 @ 3.3Ghz (FSB OC) | RAM: OWC 16Gb (8x2Gb) ECC-FB DDR2 @ 1333mhz | GPU: AMD HD5870 (flashed) | HDDs: WD Black Series 3Tb, 2x WD Black Series 1Tb, WD Blue 2Tb | UPS: Fortron EP1000
 
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18 hours ago, Donut417 said:

I would say Moca is a better standard as it uses Coax which is designed a little more with data in mind. While power cables are not shielded properly for data. On my scale I would go Ethernet, Moca, Powerline and WiFI. 

I'm not very knowledgable about Moca but last time I checked I thought they do error correction which might make it bad for gaming

 
~ Specs bellow ~
 
 
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit [UEFI]
CPU: Intel i7-5820k Haswell-E @ 4.5-4.7Ghz (1.366-1.431V) | CPU COOLER: Corsair H110 280mm AIO w/ 2x Noctua NF-A14 IPPC-2000 IP67 | RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 32Gb (8x4Gb) DDR4 @ 2666mhz CL15 | MOBO: MSI X99S Gaming 7 ATX | GPU: MSI GTX 1080 Gaming (flashed "X") @ 2138-2151Mhz (locked 1.093V) | PSU: Corsair HX850i 850W 80+ Platinum | SSD's: Samsung Pro 950 256Gb & Samsung Evo 850 500Gb | HDD: WD Black Series 6Tb + 3Tb | AUDIO: Realtek ALC1150 HD Audio | CASE: NZXT Phantom 530 | MONITOR: LG 34UC79G 34" 2560x1080p @144hz & BenQ XL2411Z 24" 1080p @144hz | SPEAKERS: Logitech Z-5450 Digital 5.1 Speaker System | HEADSET: Sennheiser GSP 350 | KEYBOARD: Corsair Strafe MX Cherry Red | MOUSE: Razer Deathadder Chroma | UPS: PowerWalker VI 2000 LCD
 
Mac Pro 2,1 (flashed) OS X 10.11.6 El Capitan 64-bit (NAS, Plex, HTTP Server, Game Servers) [R.I.P]
CPUs: 2x Intel Xeon X5365 @ 3.3Ghz (FSB OC) | RAM: OWC 16Gb (8x2Gb) ECC-FB DDR2 @ 1333mhz | GPU: AMD HD5870 (flashed) | HDDs: WD Black Series 3Tb, 2x WD Black Series 1Tb, WD Blue 2Tb | UPS: Fortron EP1000
 
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11 minutes ago, SaladFingers said:

I'm not very knowledgable about Moca but last time I checked I thought they do error correction which might make it bad for gaming

Not sure. 

I just want to sit back and watch the world burn. 

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