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Changing to hardline.

I have the corsair 780T case, currently have the ek s360 kit in my system but got the 1080TI reference card and am going to add it into the loop but make it hardline(first time ever trying it) now my idea is to keep my rad and keep my pump and all from but add another 120mm rad onto the loop as well to keep everything well cooled and enough to overclock. However I am wondering would I need 90 degree fittings to make the bends easier. If someone could give me a rough idea on what all I need that would be great. 

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25 minutes ago, PaddyMully said:

I have the corsair 780T case, currently have the ek s360 kit in my system but got the 1080TI reference card and am going to add it into the loop but make it hardline(first time ever trying it) now my idea is to keep my rad and keep my pump and all from but add another 120mm rad onto the loop as well to keep everything well cooled and enough to overclock. However I am wondering would I need 90 degree fittings to make the bends easier. If someone could give me a rough idea on what all I need that would be great. 

To move to hardline you will require all new hardline compression fittings, where you will need two per watercooling component. As for adapter fittings that just depends on the tubing runs and layout you have inside your case. 

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29 minutes ago, PaddyMully said:

However I am wondering would I need 90 degree fittings to make the bends easier

you could do that, generally easier to cut the proper length straight tube rather than get bends right, then again each additional fitting is another potential point of failure, depends on whether you want more to deal with now, or later

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1 hour ago, Cyracus said:

you could do that, generally easier to cut the proper length straight tube rather than get bends right, then again each additional fitting is another potential point of failure, depends on whether you want more to deal with now, or later

Theirs a few ways it could go I've a Idea on how it would go I've a picture of  my pc but I've no internet at the moment so can't upload on how I was thinking king of my design 

 

1 hour ago, W-L said:

To move to hardline you will require all new hardline compression fittings, where you will need two per watercooling component. As for adapter fittings that just depends on the tubing runs and layout you have inside your case. 

I had that idea I have a list of parts I am looking at on my pc from  both ek and overclockers but I've no internet so can't get a full picture for yous 

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4 minutes ago, PaddyMully said:

I had that idea I have a list of parts I am looking at on my pc from  both ek and overclockers but I've no internet so can't get a full picture for yous 

To get you started you would need this to change over to hardline and do bends.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/fittings/compression-hdc

 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/solid-tubing/petg

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If you are looking to make your hardline runs look really clean I would suggest planning out our runs before purchasing any fittings. 90 degree fittings do help quite a bit as well as small extension pieces in tight areas. Don't worry about leaks, my build has been solid for over a year with more fittings than I can count. I would 100% recommend you get a bender kit for hardline.   

IMG_8264-HDR.jpg

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4 hours ago, Greg2895 said:

If you are looking to make your hardline runs look really clean I would suggest planning out our runs before purchasing any fittings. 90 degree fittings do help quite a bit as well as small extension pieces in tight areas. Don't worry about leaks, my build has been solid for over a year with more fittings than I can count. I would 100% recommend you get a bender kit for hardline.   

IMG_8264-HDR.jpg

I am getting a bending kit from overclockers that also has a cutter with it, it helps as it tells you when it's 90 degrees and others 

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On 10/15/2017 at 11:41 PM, W-L said:

To get you started you would need this to change over to hardline and do bends.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/fittings/compression-hdc

 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/solid-tubing/petg

Hey, this is the kind way I would like my hard line to look and also the parts I've got so far in a price list (except a way to put my gpu mounted facing out of the case so I can see it.)

The Case I am using is a 780T. 
image.png.ec374e1f2916c657ff79e0af18773838.pngimage.png.a7e39710b19932c9568a2942ad52db82.png

image.png

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21 minutes ago, PaddyMully said:

Hey, this is the kind way I would like my hard line to look and also the parts I've got so far in a price list (except a way to put my gpu mounted facing out of the case so I can see it.)

The Case I am using is a 780T. 

The tubing you have selected and fittings are not compatible Monsoon used inch exact to tubing where EKWB is metric exact. 

 

Alsoif you have any nickel in your loop your going to want to use a premix as nickel and silver do not play nice in a loop together. 

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3 hours ago, W-L said:

The tubing you have selected and fittings are not compatible Monsoon used inch exact to tubing where EKWB is metric exact. 

 

Alsoif you have any nickel in your loop your going to want to use a premix as nickel and silver do not play nice in a loop together. 

I am using what comes with the s360 kit which is the EK-Supermacy Mx. Really are the tubes not compatible ? Because a mate of mine bought the exact same things but for a different case and it is working fine.

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Make sure the fittings and tubing both are 10/12mm or 12/16mm and not a mix of mm and inches. Even though they are similar they aren’t compatible. I got burned on this awhile back. 

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46 minutes ago, PaddyMully said:

I am using what comes with the s360 kit which is the EK-Supermacy Mx. Really are the tubes not compatible ? Because a mate of mine bought the exact same things but for a different case and it is working fine.

Monsoon components have always been inch exact from my understanding, where 5/8" OD is 15.875mm not exactly 16mm. 

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49 minutes ago, W-L said:

Monsoon components have always been inch exact from my understanding, where 5/8" OD is 15.875mm not exactly 16mm. 

so where should i buy the right tubing ?

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2 minutes ago, PaddyMully said:

so where should i buy the right tubing ?

The best solution is always get the them from the same manufacture as the fittings, I do know that Bitspowers and most others are metric exact and not inch exact as is with Moonsoon and Primochill. 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-petg-tube-12-16mm-500mm-2pcs

 

Just something to note I noticed you have two fill ports selected. 

 

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2 minutes ago, W-L said:

The best solution is always get the them from the same manufacture as the fittings, I do know that Bitspowers and most others are metric exact and not inch exact as is with Moonsoon and Primochill. 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-petg-tube-12-16mm-500mm-2pcs

 

Just something to note I noticed you have two fill ports selected. 

 

Should I not have 2 fill ports? I plan on using the bit of soft tubing I have left as a drain to make it easy to empty, clean and refill the res.

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1 minute ago, PaddyMully said:

Should I not have 2 fill ports? I plan on using the bit of soft tubing I have left as a drain to make it easy to empty, clean and refill the res.

You can that is up to you just make sure you have the valve situated close to the res and to not have a tube filled with stagnant fluid. On the topic of fluids here are some options over the silver coil. 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/cooling-liquids-coolants/cryofuel-concentrates

https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/x1-coolants/

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2 minutes ago, W-L said:

You can that is up to you just make sure you have the valve situated close to the res and to not have a tube filled with stagnant fluid. On the topic of fluids here are some options over the silver coil. 

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/cooling-liquids-coolants/cryofuel-concentrates

https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/x1-coolants/

How close should I have it to the res ?What do you mean stagnant fluid? I am going to be using spare tube I have left over. I am actually currently using the blood red from EK but was told by someone that I would still need a silver coil in as well.

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Just now, PaddyMully said:

How close should I have it to the res ?What do you mean stagnant fluid? I am going to be using spare tube I have left over. I am actually currently using the blood red from EK but was told by someone that I would still need a silver coil in as well.

No you don't mix premixed/concentrated fluids with other biocides or silver coils. You might need another bottle with how many components you have in the loop it should be around 1.5L roughly. 

 

For the valve have it directly attached to the reservoir with an adapter fitting as needed, if you have fluid that is left in the drain tube that doesn't get circulated in the loop it can sometimes cause problems since it's stagnant and doesn't flow or readily mix. 

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On 10/15/2017 at 9:32 PM, Greg2895 said:

If you are looking to make your hardline runs look really clean I would suggest planning out our runs before purchasing any fittings. 90 degree fittings do help quite a bit as well as small extension pieces in tight areas. Don't worry about leaks, my build has been solid for over a year with more fittings than I can count. I would 100% recommend you get a bender kit for hardline.   

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4 minutes ago, W-L said:

No you don't mix premixed/concentrated fluids with other biocides or silver coils. You might need another bottle with how many components you have in the loop it should be around 1.5L roughly. 

 

For the valve have it directly attached to the reservoir with an adapter fitting as needed, if you have fluid that is left in the drain tube that doesn't get circulated in the loop it can sometimes cause problems since it's stagnant and doesn't flow or readily mix. 

Okay thank you, I will keep it all in mind, I hope to be moving onto hardline soon, I will post a picture in here off everything I will buy before hand thank you all for the help.

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Like previously stated just make sure the ball valve does not have a lot of tubing behind it where coolant will sit stagnant. Also make sure the drain is at the lowest point of the loop for easy draining. This is how I ended up doing mine. Crack open the res top and attach a barb fitting with soft tubing. This drains over 90% of the coolant from my system with the turn of a valve! 

626A5E64-B20D-4F34-A560-DDB47542E22F.jpeg

F00B6FCB-F3F5-44F3-8C5A-A589C13166B2.jpeg

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On 10/19/2017 at 11:54 PM, Greg2895 said:

Like previously stated just make sure the ball valve does not have a lot of tubing behind it where coolant will sit stagnant. Also make sure the drain is at the lowest point of the loop for easy draining. This is how I ended up doing mine. Crack open the res top and attach a barb fitting with soft tubing. This drains over 90% of the coolant from my system with the turn of a valve! 

626A5E64-B20D-4F34-A560-DDB47542E22F.jpeg

F00B6FCB-F3F5-44F3-8C5A-A589C13166B2.jpeg

Okay Thank you I will keep all of this in mind, I will also post a picture of all the parts in here once I have thought it all through and see if it  is right.

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On 10/19/2017 at 9:47 AM, PaddyMully said:

Hey, this is the kind way I would like my hard line to look and also the parts I've got so far in a price list (except a way to put my gpu mounted facing out of the case so I can see it.)

The Case I am using is a 780T. 
 

 

I think you are two fittings short - if your loop will have a T-splitter in it, you will need two more hard tube fittings (total of 12(, and I'd reccomend a static extender instead of a rotary one - one less o-ring to worry about.

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44 minutes ago, maxxsann said:

I think you are two fittings short - if your loop will have a T-splitter in it, you will need two more hard tube fittings (total of 12(, and I'd reccomend a static extender instead of a rotary one - one less o-ring to worry about.

I think I counted wrong but you could be right I will double check it to make  sure thanks ! Hmm what do you mean by static extender, whats the difference?

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