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Computer Blackscreens/Won't Boot to BIOS: Status Code 46

Hi, 

I just built a new pc.  Before anything else, here are the specs:

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1800X

CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i v2

Motherboard: Asus Crosshair VI Hero

GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4 3000

Case: Corsair Obsidian Series 750D Airflow Edition, Full Tower

PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750W

Optical Drive: Asus 24x DVD-RW Serial-ATA Internal OEM Optical Drive

 

I completed the build and connected a monitor via DVI.

I also connected a keyboard to the USB slot marked BIOS.

I power on the computer and I immediately see the status code ("Q-Code") 46. (See attached) The "no signal" message on my monitor disappears but it's a black screen.

My motherboard manual has no indication of what "46" means. (See attached)

The only thing I saw before "46" was "8" for about a 1/4 of a second.

After some research online I tried reducing my RAM to one slot (8GB total) to no avail, same problem.

I have also switched on "safe mode" to see if it can run the RAM at a lower frequency in case that's the problem.  Didn't help.

 

From what I can tell, every component within the pc seems to be working–all fans are spinning.

Does anyone have an idea of what could be causing this?  Would this be the result of user error in cabling, or a problem with the CPU?  RAM?

 

All I ask is that the BIOS shows up.  From there, I'm golden.

 

Thanks for any ideas!

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FullSizeRender (1).jpg

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2 minutes ago, tcs_penguin said:

-snip-

try reseating everything

Have you tried to perform a sudden temporary interrupt of the electricity flow to your computational device followed by a re-initialization procedure of the central processing unit and associated components?


Personal Rig Specs

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K @ 4.8GHZ
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z270H GAMING
Graphics Card: Inno3D ICHILL GEFORCE GTX 1080 TI X3 ULTRA
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX Black DDR4 2x8GB @ 3GHZ
Storage: 2 x Samsung NVMe SSD 960 EVO 256GB in Raid | 2 x Seagate 4TB Expansion Desktop 

(seagates are originally external drives removed from casing and installed internally)
PSU: Seasonic Prime Titanium 850W 
Case: Mission SG GGX 3.5 (same as Rosewill Cullinan or Anidees AI Crystal with other stock fans)
Cooling: Kraken X62 for CPU, Corsair H55 with NZXT Kraken G12 for GPU 

 

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Reseat the ram, power connectors and check to make sure the cooler for the CPU isn't too tight on the CPU. 

 

There was a previous topic here around March where the owner of the motherboard found out that 3 out of his 4 ram sticks were faulty so that may be the case for you. You may want to try and use the safeboot or try using MemOK if that exists on your motherboard to see what speeds your ram is running at if possible.

 

You may also want to try using 1 dimm stick if you aren't already. Try moving it to a different slot and see what happens.

"The only thing that matters right now is that you're here, and you're safe."

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3 minutes ago, Hiitchy said:

There was a previous topic here around March where the owner of the motherboard found out that 3 out of his 4 ram sticks were faulty so that may be the case for you. You may want to try and use the safeboot or try using MemOK if that exists on your motherboard to see what speeds your ram is running at if possible.

 

You may also want to try using 1 dimm stick if you aren't already. Try moving it to a different slot and see what happens.

You took the words out of my mouth, nice

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12 minutes ago, tcs_penguin said:

Hi, 

I just built a new pc.  Before anything else, here are the specs:

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1800X

CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i v2

Motherboard: Asus Crosshair VI Hero

GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4 3000

Case: Corsair Obsidian Series 750D Airflow Edition, Full Tower

PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750W

Optical Drive: Asus 24x DVD-RW Serial-ATA Internal OEM Optical Drive

 

I completed the build and connected a monitor via DVI.

I also connected a keyboard to the USB slot marked BIOS.

I power on the computer and I immediately see the status code ("Q-Code") 46. (See attached) The "no signal" message on my monitor disappears but it's a black screen.

My motherboard manual has no indication of what "46" means. (See attached)

The only thing I saw before "46" was "8" for about a 1/4 of a second.

After some research online I tried reducing my RAM to one slot (8GB total) to no avail, same problem.

I have also switched on "safe mode" to see if it can run the RAM at a lower frequency in case that's the problem.  Didn't help.

 

From what I can tell, every component within the pc seems to be working–all fans are spinning.

Does anyone have an idea of what could be causing this?  Would this be the result of user error in cabling, or a problem with the CPU?  RAM?

 

All I ask is that the BIOS shows up.  From there, I'm golden.

 

Thanks for any ideas!

FullSizeRender.jpg

FullSizeRender (1).jpg

46 - OEM post memory initialization codes

Clear CMOS 
Press memory go button

Should all work then.

ASUS Maximus VII Hero | i7 4790K OC 4.8GHZ | 4x8GB 2400MHz MSI GTX 1070 alphacool eiswolf gpx pro
Samsung 850 EVO 520GB + Corsair 525gb + 275gb SSD  2TB Seagate Barracuda | 8TB Seagate Archive

Cooler Master HAF-X 942 | EVGA Supernova 1000W 80+ Platinum | Custom watercooling loop (gpu+cpu)

360mm+180mm rad and 10 fans | Swiftech D5 mcp655-B

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The only thing I've found so far that I'm not sure about is that I've plugged a 4+4 pin EPS12V cable (attached) into an EATX12V_1 slot (attached).  Is this the wrong place for the CPU power cable to go?

 

I've also tried many RAM configurations and safe mode, but no luck.

eps4plus4.jpg

 

IMG_0155.JPG

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8 minutes ago, tcs_penguin said:

The only thing I've found so far that I'm not sure about is that I've plugged a 4+4 pin EPS12V cable (attached) into an EATX12V_1 slot (attached).  Is this the wrong place for the CPU power cable to go?

 

I've also tried many RAM configurations and safe mode, but no luck.

eps4plus4.jpg

 

IMG_0155.JPG

If correct, there should be a dedicated labeled power connectors for your mobo, and cpu. The one with 8+4 is for your cpu. And there should be a dedicated power connector labeled "cpu". Correct me if I'm wrong tho

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11 minutes ago, AntonDVries said:

If correct, there should be a dedicated labeled power connectors for your mobo, and cpu. The one with 8+4 is for your cpu. And there should be a dedicated power connector labeled "cpu". Correct me if I'm wrong tho

Yes, the EPS12V cable was marked CPU and into the 8-pin connector shown in the second attachment (should have been more clear about that).  So I guess this wouldn't be the problem?

I planned on reseating everything like Changis suggested, but I know all of the connections to my PSU are secure and the fact that every component is functioning leads me to believe I seated them all correctly.  The only component that I cant determine is working correctly is my CPU, which is why I was wondering if I messed up its power cable seating.

 

Anyone know if this (black screen, no BIOS) is the error I would get if the CPU had no power?

 

If it makes a difference, I am 100% sure I installed the processor correctly and highly doubt any pins were bent.

 

Edit: My PSU manual stated that for overclockers onlya second CPU power cable could be utilized in the EATX12V_2 connector (attached previously).  Does the Ryzen 1800X need a ton of power?  This is something I could try–but the manual said overclockers only, so I'm not sure.

Edited by tcs_penguin
Additional CPU power info
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Okay, does it say when you have to plug in the additional power connector? At so many watts?599fe932f2c00_aHR0cDovL21lZGlhLmJlc3RvZm1pY3JvLmNvbS9JL1IvNjU2NDUxL29yaWdpbmFsLzAxLVdhdHRhZ2UtQmFycy5wbmc.jpg.c2f16de5ff778e22de25591e3a38e926.jpg

The cpu shouldn't use more than ~140 watts (in this case it .2GHz overclocked)

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2 minutes ago, AntonDVries said:

Okay, does it say when you have to plug in the additional power connector? At so many watts?599fe932f2c00_aHR0cDovL21lZGlhLmJlc3RvZm1pY3JvLmNvbS9JL1IvNjU2NDUxL29yaWdpbmFsLzAxLVdhdHRhZ2UtQmFycy5wbmc.jpg.c2f16de5ff778e22de25591e3a38e926.jpg

The cpu shouldn't use more than ~140 watts (in this case it .2GHz overclocked)

Unfortunately it gives no specifics:

"Connect the 4+4-pin EPS12V cable to the motherboard.  (Optional) - If you plan on extreme overclocking and your motherboard supports additional 8pin or 4pin CPU power connectors," (mine does, the 4-pin EATX12V_2 connector attached above) "connect the second 4+4-pin EPS12V cable.  This is only needed for heavy overclocking or for Dual CPU motherboards."

If all else fails I might give this a try.  It's unlikely that the CPU wouldn't run without one 8pin connector, but I see no other possible causes.

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Also, just realized I'm not getting any beep codes when I turn on my system.  Maybe this would indicate it's a problem with the motherboard?

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26 minutes ago, tcs_penguin said:

Also, just realized I'm not getting any beep codes when I turn on my system.  Maybe this would indicate it's a problem with the motherboard?

Do you got the sound beeper thingy thing installed? Or is it in the mobo itself. It would beep if there's a problem in general

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I've done a lot more experimenting and I've figured out it's probably a compatibility issue with my RAM (which shouldn't be the case, but others online have suggested it and it seems realistic).  I'll probably look to get one stick of 2GB DDR4 RAM with a low clock speed, just to set up the BIOS–anyone have suggestions for the best chance of compatibility?

 

Also thanks AntonDVries for the responses.

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  • 6 months later...
On ‎8‎/‎25‎/‎2017 at 6:05 PM, tcs_penguin said:

I've done a lot more experimenting and I've figured out it's probably a compatibility issue with my RAM (which shouldn't be the case, but others online have suggested it and it seems realistic).  I'll probably look to get one stick of 2GB DDR4 RAM with a low clock speed, just to set up the BIOS–anyone have suggestions for the best chance of compatibility?

 

Also thanks AntonDVries for the responses.

Hey Boss,

 

     Did you ever find a solution?  I'm getting the same problem with basically the same set.  I did notice my RAM was 3200 and the specs on newegg said the MB could support 3200 (O.C) so I'm assuming I have to do what you said and go get a small stick of RAM just to get to BIOS.

 

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