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I HAVE 1700X AND X370 MOTHERBOARD MSI GAMING PLUS..Problem is it is running at 3.5 ghz on auto ,When i do a minute overclcock it crashes eg 3.6, 3.65 etc on 1.25v earlier it was working well .I dont understand why it is crashing .See i tried updating bios still crashes ,i tried disabling hpet and enabling it too crashes in both cases,I tried upgrading chipset drivers still crashes.I used ryzen master dram voltage 1.35 soc voltage 1.2 vcore 1.25 still crashes.I did in bios still crashes. My graphic card r9 380x.powersupply 750 w new antec gold.Please help i am confused as hell.HELP PLEASE

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https://linustechtips.com/topic/824445-ryzen-overclocking-support-urgent/
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Temps?

HEADS UP, THIS ACCOUNT IS INACTIVE NOW

I'm keeping everything else the way it was for anyone who might check out my answers in future, but I won't be using LTT.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to quote me when replying to me!

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My PC:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.2GHz

Cooler: Stock Wraith Spire

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000mHz 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB) RGB

Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X370-F Gaming ATX

SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB 2.5"

HDD: Western Digital Blue 1TB 7200rpm

GPU: Asus ROG Strix OC GTX 1060 6GB

Case: Cooler Master H500P

PSU: Corsair RM650i 650W 80+ Gold Fully Modular

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

Fans: 4x Cooler Master Masterfan Pro 120 Air Balance

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CPU: Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3337U @ 1.8GHz

RAM: 8GB DDR3 2133mhz SODIMM (1x4GB Samsung, 1x4GB Kingston)

SSD: Kingston 24GB SSD (originally for caching)

HDD: HGST 500GB 5400rpm

GPU: Intel HD 4000 Graphics

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

 

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Just now, sarggames said:

RYZEN MASTER REPORT 55 ON IDLE AND 75 ON OVERCLOCK LOAD

easy with the caps. Does a 3.55 overclock work?

HEADS UP, THIS ACCOUNT IS INACTIVE NOW

I'm keeping everything else the way it was for anyone who might check out my answers in future, but I won't be using LTT.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to quote me when replying to me!

Please explain your question fully, so I can answer it fully.

PSU Tier List Cooler Tier List SSD Tier List  My Specs Below!

Spoiler

My PC:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.2GHz

Cooler: Stock Wraith Spire

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000mHz 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB) RGB

Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X370-F Gaming ATX

SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB 2.5"

HDD: Western Digital Blue 1TB 7200rpm

GPU: Asus ROG Strix OC GTX 1060 6GB

Case: Cooler Master H500P

PSU: Corsair RM650i 650W 80+ Gold Fully Modular

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

Fans: 4x Cooler Master Masterfan Pro 120 Air Balance

Spoiler

Potato Laptop (Samsung Series 5 Ultrabook, 2013):

CPU: Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3337U @ 1.8GHz

RAM: 8GB DDR3 2133mhz SODIMM (1x4GB Samsung, 1x4GB Kingston)

SSD: Kingston 24GB SSD (originally for caching)

HDD: HGST 500GB 5400rpm

GPU: Intel HD 4000 Graphics

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

 

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Just now, sarggames said:

no

Most programs seem to ID the ryzen's temperature as 20 degrees celsius higher than it actually is. What cooler are you using? Since your temps are 75 degrees on load, the programs would see it as 95 degrees, which is way too high.

HEADS UP, THIS ACCOUNT IS INACTIVE NOW

I'm keeping everything else the way it was for anyone who might check out my answers in future, but I won't be using LTT.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to quote me when replying to me!

Please explain your question fully, so I can answer it fully.

PSU Tier List Cooler Tier List SSD Tier List  My Specs Below!

Spoiler

My PC:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.2GHz

Cooler: Stock Wraith Spire

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000mHz 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB) RGB

Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X370-F Gaming ATX

SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB 2.5"

HDD: Western Digital Blue 1TB 7200rpm

GPU: Asus ROG Strix OC GTX 1060 6GB

Case: Cooler Master H500P

PSU: Corsair RM650i 650W 80+ Gold Fully Modular

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

Fans: 4x Cooler Master Masterfan Pro 120 Air Balance

Spoiler

Potato Laptop (Samsung Series 5 Ultrabook, 2013):

CPU: Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3337U @ 1.8GHz

RAM: 8GB DDR3 2133mhz SODIMM (1x4GB Samsung, 1x4GB Kingston)

SSD: Kingston 24GB SSD (originally for caching)

HDD: HGST 500GB 5400rpm

GPU: Intel HD 4000 Graphics

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

 

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Just now, JaegerB said:

Most programs seem to ID the ryzen's temperature as 20 degrees celsius higher than it actually is. What cooler are you using? Since your temps are 75 degrees on load, the programs would see it as 95 degrees, which is way too high.

ryzen master say it is 75 so probably it is 55

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Dude 1.25v is super low for voltage. Max I recommend is 1.4...

 

Turn up fan speeds some and increase voltage and you probably can push clocks higher.

Make sure to quote me or tag me when responding to me, or I might not know you replied! Examples:

 

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Just now, DocSwag said:

Dude 1.25v is super low for voltage. Max I recommend is 1.4...

 

Turn up fan speeds some and increase voltage and you probably can push clocks higher.

now i am overclocking very minutely just 150 mhz over so 1.25 and fan speed is max and it fails even on 1.35

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3 minutes ago, sarggames said:

ryzen master say it is 75 so probably it is 55

Ryzen master is usually the accurate one. Like doc said, make sure your voltage is around 1.35v and put up your fan speed. What cooler are you using.

HEADS UP, THIS ACCOUNT IS INACTIVE NOW

I'm keeping everything else the way it was for anyone who might check out my answers in future, but I won't be using LTT.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to quote me when replying to me!

Please explain your question fully, so I can answer it fully.

PSU Tier List Cooler Tier List SSD Tier List  My Specs Below!

Spoiler

My PC:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.2GHz

Cooler: Stock Wraith Spire

RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3000mHz 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB) RGB

Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X370-F Gaming ATX

SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB 2.5"

HDD: Western Digital Blue 1TB 7200rpm

GPU: Asus ROG Strix OC GTX 1060 6GB

Case: Cooler Master H500P

PSU: Corsair RM650i 650W 80+ Gold Fully Modular

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

Fans: 4x Cooler Master Masterfan Pro 120 Air Balance

Spoiler

Potato Laptop (Samsung Series 5 Ultrabook, 2013):

CPU: Intel Ivy Bridge i5 3337U @ 1.8GHz

RAM: 8GB DDR3 2133mhz SODIMM (1x4GB Samsung, 1x4GB Kingston)

SSD: Kingston 24GB SSD (originally for caching)

HDD: HGST 500GB 5400rpm

GPU: Intel HD 4000 Graphics

OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit

 

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Just now, JaegerB said:

Ryzen master is usually the accurate one. Like doc said, make sure your voltage is around 1.35v and put up your fan speed. What cooler are you using.

 

Just now, JaegerB said:

Ryzen master is usually the accurate one. Like doc said, make sure your voltage is around 1.35v and put up your fan speed. What cooler are you using.

ryzen master they say is in accurate for 1700x and 1800x antec cooler a40 pro

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37 minutes ago, sarggames said:

soc voltage 1.2

Trying to fry your system?  That's way too high.  Set it to 1.1 and you'll be fine.

So more important question, WHEN is it crashing?  During what types of load, which programs and what are you doing with it?

Also you failed to list your ram speed and timings, as well as which type of ram you have.  Overclocking Ryzen ins't like Intel's 'set it and forget it' method.  You really need to work at it, step by step, resetting between changes and taking your time.  

Before you write it off as bullshit, I cannot reset bios and set all my settings on my 1800x from a fresh boot at what it can run.  Takes me a bit to get of tweaking to 4.25ghz and 3400+ ram speed at C14

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44 minutes ago, sarggames said:

dram voltage 1.35 soc voltage 1.2 vcore 1.25 still crashes.

What type of RAM do you have? Need the exact model number, speed and timings.

 

SOC voltage of 1.2 is not a good thing for the CPU long term. I generally just leave that on auto because I've found that the motherboard handles it pretty well without my help.

 

As far as vcore goes, 1.25 is very low for any kind of overclock. Crank that puppy up to 1.335 and start tweaking from there.

I enjoy buying junk and sinking more money than it's worth into it to make it less junk.

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Just now, aisle9 said:

What type of RAM do you have? Need the exact model number, speed and timings.

 

SOC voltage of 1.2 is not a good thing for the CPU long term. I generally just leave that on auto because I've found that the motherboard handles it pretty well without my help.

 

As far as vcore goes, 1.25 is very low for any kind of overclock. Crank that puppy up to 1.335 and start tweaking from there.

IT STILL CRASHES

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15 15 15 1

Just now, aisle9 said:

What type of RAM do you have? Need the exact model number, speed and timings.

 

SOC voltage of 1.2 is not a good thing for the CPU long term. I generally just leave that on auto because I've found that the motherboard handles it pretty well without my help.

 

As far as vcore goes, 1.25 is very low for any kind of overclock. Crank that puppy up to 1.335 and start tweaking from there.

15 15 15 15 36 KINGSTON 2133

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Just now, aisle9 said:

What type of RAM do you have? Need the exact model number, speed and timings.

 

SOC voltage of 1.2 is not a good thing for the CPU long term. I generally just leave that on auto because I've found that the motherboard handles it pretty well without my help.

 

As far as vcore goes, 1.25 is very low for any kind of overclock. Crank that puppy up to 1.335 and start tweaking from there.

 

Just now, Evanair said:

Trying to fry your system?  That's way too high.  Set it to 1.1 and you'll be fine.

So more important question, WHEN is it crashing?  During what types of load, which programs and what are you doing with it?

Also you failed to list your ram speed and timings, as well as which type of ram you have.  Overclocking Ryzen ins't like Intel's 'set it and forget it' method.  You really need to work at it, step by step, resetting between changes and taking your time.  

Before you write it off as bullshit, I cannot reset bios and set all my settings on my 1800x from a fresh boot at what it can run.  Takes me a bit to get of tweaking to 4.25ghz and 3400+ ram speed at C14

15 15 15 15 36 2133 RAM

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8 minutes ago, sarggames said:

IT STILL CRASHES

Stop typing in all caps. It's annoying as hell and does not make me want to help you.

6 minutes ago, sarggames said:

15 15 15 1

15 15 15 15 36 KINGSTON 2133

Disable all OC settings on your RAM and set it back to stock voltage, speed and timings. Your RAM is not a high-performance kit, and if you're trying to OC it, that might be causing the problem.

 

Did you stress your PC extensively before trying to OC it and confirm that at stock it's 100% stable? If not, clear your CMOS and do so. If you do have a VRM issue or something like that, you'll only figure it out by stressing at stock.

I enjoy buying junk and sinking more money than it's worth into it to make it less junk.

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Just now, aisle9 said:

Stop typing in all caps. It's annoying as hell and does not make me want to help you.

Disable all OC settings on your RAM and set it back to stock voltage, speed and timings. Your RAM is not a high-performance kit, and if you're trying to OC it, that might be causing the problem.

 

Did you stress your PC extensively before trying to OC it and confirm that at stock it's 100% stable? If not, clear your CMOS and do so. If you do have a VRM issue or something like that, you'll only figure it out by stressing at stock.

I DONT OC RAM  USUALLY .I have returned to default but still it fails to overclock .Besides what is the method i use cinebench to test

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1 minute ago, sarggames said:

I DONT OC RAM  USUALLY .I have returned to default but still it fails to overclock .Besides what is the method i use cinebench to test

Again, knock off the caps please. Reset your CMOS, then power the computer back on and put it through a battery of stress tests. For Ryzen, I like OCCT, Cinebench and Prime95. With everything left at stock after a full CMOS reset (as in, use the jumpers or pull the battery), run Cinebench a few times, then run Prime95 small FFTs for an hour, then power up OCCT for three hours. If your PC doesn't crash or throw errors, you're good to begin OC efforts again. If it does, you have instability somewhere else, and troubleshooting is called for to figure out what needs to be RMA'ed.

I enjoy buying junk and sinking more money than it's worth into it to make it less junk.

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Just now, aisle9 said:

Again, knock off the caps please. Reset your CMOS, then power the computer back on and put it through a battery of stress tests. For Ryzen, I like OCCT, Cinebench and Prime95. With everything left at stock after a full CMOS reset (as in, use the jumpers or pull the battery), run Cinebench a few times, then run Prime95 small FFTs for an hour, then power up OCCT for three hours. If your PC doesn't crash or throw errors, you're good to begin OC efforts again. If it does, you have instability somewhere else, and troubleshooting is called for to figure out what needs to be RMA'ed.

can you tell me how to know your cpu is at fault or motherboard

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Just now, sarggames said:

can you tell me how to know your chip is at fault or motherboard

You troubleshoot it, but you can't do that until you know if there's a problem. That's why you should reset CMOS and stress it at bone stock.

I enjoy buying junk and sinking more money than it's worth into it to make it less junk.

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Just now, aisle9 said:

You troubleshoot it, but you can't do that until you know if there's a problem. That's why you should reset CMOS and stress it at bone stock.

yes after doing that what should  i look for in these test to differentiate between motherboard and cpu

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Just now, sarggames said:

yes after doing that what should  i look for in these test to differentiate between motherboard and cpu

You're building yourself up to an answer before you've asked the proper questions. Stress at stock first. The smart money is that your system is perfectly stable at stock, and something done during the OC process has caused a problem that's easily solved by--wait for it--resetting CMOS!

 

After you've stressed at stock for several hours, come on back by here and let us know how it went. If you do have stability problems after resetting CMOS, then we'll go through the steps of troubleshooting that. If not, we can figure out what went wrong with your OC. Either way, you've got to stress the system at stock settings before moving forward. Stressing at stock is the first step of any overclock for that exact reason.

I enjoy buying junk and sinking more money than it's worth into it to make it less junk.

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Just now, aisle9 said:

You're building yourself up to an answer before you've asked the proper questions. Stress at stock first. The smart money is that your system is perfectly stable at stock, and something done during the OC process has caused a problem that's easily solved by--wait for it--resetting CMOS!

 

After you've stressed at stock for several hours, come on back by here and let us know how it went. If you do have stability problems after resetting CMOS, then we'll go through the steps of troubleshooting that. If not, we can figure out what went wrong with your OC. Either way, you've got to stress the system at stock settings before moving forward. Stressing at stock is the first step of any overclock for that exact reason.

for your knowledge i have resetted cmos many times and decided to not overclock from bios after last time i reset cmos .I used ryzen master but still if you say so i will still do it.

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