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My PSU

11 hours ago, Energycore said:

Those are all bad :P

 

If you're going to go used look at something from Antec or Delta or Seasonic.

The Corsair VS450 is a great choice if you’re building a home or office system with lower power demands, but you still demand the compatibility and reliability that Corsair is known for. And this is the build I wanna get.

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What's most important these days at computers is how much current a power supply can output on 12v.

Your power supply says it can output 21A at 12v (it says so on the label) but then it also says under that it can do maximum 192 watts on 12v , so all your serious components (video card and processor and fans) only have less than watts to work with.

 

These days, you should buy a power supply that can output at least 350-400 watts (at least 30A).

 

Brand name power supplies like that Corsair won't lie about what they can do. But don't buy the one that says "bought 2 years ago and kept in storage", that's not good.

The cooler master 500w sold by viapilot is acceptable but kinda weak at 12v, you should look for something better.

The rs-450-aclx avoid, it's too weak, not worth it.

 

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2 hours ago, EasonIDontKnowAnything said:

The Corsair VS450 is a great choice if you’re building a home or office system with lower power demands, but you still demand the compatibility and reliability that Corsair is known for. And this is the build I wanna get.

The VS450 is a bad choice everywhere because you can find a CX430 for the same or cheaper

We have a NEW and GLORIOUSER-ER-ER PSU Tier List Now. (dammit @LukeSavenije stop coming up with new ones)

You can check out the old one that gave joy to so many across the land here

 

Computer having a hard time powering on? Troubleshoot it with this guide. (Currently looking for suggestions to update it into the context of <current year> and make it its own thread)

Computer Specs:

Spoiler

Mathresolvermajig: Intel Xeon E3 1240 (Sandy Bridge i7 equivalent)

Chillinmachine: Noctua NH-C14S
Framepainting-inator: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC2 Hybrid

Attachcorethingy: Gigabyte H61M-S2V-B3

Infoholdstick: Corsair 2x4GB DDR3 1333

Computerarmor: Silverstone RL06 "Lookalike"

Rememberdoogle: 1TB HDD + 120GB TR150 + 240 SSD Plus + 1TB MX500

AdditionalPylons: Phanteks AMP! 550W (based on Seasonic GX-550)

Letterpad: Rosewill Apollo 9100 (Cherry MX Red)

Buttonrodent: Razer Viper Mini + Huion H430P drawing Tablet

Auralnterface: Sennheiser HD 6xx

Liquidrectangles: LG 27UK850-W 4K HDR

 

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6 hours ago, Energycore said:

The VS450 is a bad choice everywhere because you can find a CX430 for the same or cheaper

well I the CX line here is def much more expensive. Keyword being much

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10 hours ago, Energycore said:

The VS450 is a bad choice everywhere because you can find a CX430 for the same or cheaper

Well just tell me out of all the links I linked which are the best? I mean cooler master powersupply for 50? shit Imma take that. and my pc uses half the wattage anyways so i's kind of fine.

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2 hours ago, EasonIDontKnowAnything said:

Well just tell me out of all the links I linked which are the best? I mean cooler master powersupply for 50? shit Imma take that. and my pc uses half the wattage anyways so i's kind of fine.

The Corsair VS450 would be the best.

The Cooler Master units are lower-end, lower quality designs than the Corsair VS series, and they are already been used for an extended period of time. Depending on environmental factors, applications that it was used in, and how well it had been maintain (were the PSUs fill with dust where it starved the component of cool air?), you may want to serviced them before you used it (like recapping the unit and oiling or replacing the fan).

 

Not to mentioned a PSU can fail quicker if you leave it in storage, as things such as the capacitors do have a shelf life, where the dielectric layer of the caps can thinned out. You can salvage the capacitors by rebuilding the layer by slowly applying voltages to it; however, it's pretty much pointless to do in such a low quality PSU whom caps would likely just swell and pop if it haven't already when attempting to do so.

 

It's kind of pointless in buying a low quality, used PSU if it end up failing requiring you to spend 100MYR more for another one, when you could have spend 250MYR on a better quality unit. Since those options aren't really an option for you, the Corsair VS450 is your best bet (assuming that it wasn't sitting there unboxed for 5 years or whatever).

 

An 250MYR recommendation though, the Segotep GP600G 500w unit is a good unit that's based on a modern LLC resonant design + DC-DC for 250MYR with a 5 year warranty.

http://www.lazada.com.my/segotep-80-plus-gold-gp600g-500w-psu-20957476.html?spm=a2o4k.category-020607000000.0.0.9HF7yk&ff=1

It's based on the same Fortech design as the Enermax Platimax D.F. but at a lower efficiency and lower quality components (which is to be expected).

 

 

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11 hours ago, quan289 said:

The Corsair VS450 would be the best.

The Cooler Master units are lower-end, lower quality designs than the Corsair VS series, and they are already been used for an extended period of time. Depending on environmental factors, applications that it was used in, and how well it had been maintain (were the PSUs fill with dust where it starved the component of cool air?), you may want to serviced them before you used it (like recapping the unit and oiling or replacing the fan).

 

An 250MYR recommendation though, the Segotep GP600G 500w unit is a good unit that's based on a modern LLC resonant design + DC-DC for 250MYR with a 5 year warranty.

http://www.lazada.com.my/segotep-80-plus-gold-gp600g-500w-psu-20957476.html?spm=a2o4k.category-020607000000.0.0.9HF7yk&ff=1

It's based on the same Fortech design as the Enermax Platimax D.F. but at a lower efficiency and lower quality components (which is to be expected).

Cooler Master Masterwatt Lite is better than Corsair VS. Uses better components (Teapo caps), has FDB fan, has better electrical performance (ripple, voltage regulation)

 

Segotep PSUs uses Capxon capacitors so I would not recommend even though some of their products have 5 year warranty and good efficiency rating

Desktop specs:

Spoiler

AMD Ryzen 5 5600 Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE ARGB Gigabyte B550M DS3H mATX

Asrock Challenger Pro OC Radeon RX 6700 XT Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (8Gx2) 3600MHz CL18 Kingston NV2 1TB PCIe 4.0 NVMe SSD

Montech Century 850W Gold Tecware Nexus Air (Black) ATX Mid Tower

Laptop: Lenovo Ideapad 5 Pro 16ACH6

Phone: Xiaomi Redmi Note 10 Pro 8+128

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7 hours ago, ZM Fong said:

Cooler Master Masterwatt Lite is better than Corsair VS. Uses better components (Teapo caps), has FDB fan, has better electrical performance (ripple, voltage regulation)

 

Segotep PSUs uses Capxon capacitors so I would not recommend even though some of their products have 5 year warranty and good efficiency rating

None of the links the OP provided is the Masterwatt Lite. They are older, Extreme Power Plus power supplies that went out-of-specs or stayed barely in specs when outputting what it is rated for. The OP had made multiples of threads on this and it seem that he is set on getting those used CMs or a new, unboxed VS450. Between the choices, the VS450 would be the best option.

 

The Enhance build Masterwatt lite share similarities with the CWT GPM based Corsair VS, and they both are based off of a low-end double forward + group-regulated design. Voltage regulation of them should be comparable; however, where did you see reviews of the new Masterwatt Lite to know that it's had better ripple suppression. Enhance seem to be behind other OEMs in ripples suppression, where many of them are near the upper quarter of specs.

 

I guess you can say that build quality is better on it, if it has a better HDB fan; however, the Masterwatt Lite has an Yateloon D12SH-12 which is a traditional sleeved bearing fan found in the CX series (the medium speed version is in the VS series which should have a longer life due to the lower rotational speed). So is that really a HDB fan or it is being misadvertised? Because there have been discussions of this being an issue at Jonnyguru. And if it is an HDB fan, there's some concerning issue I would have it being used in a low-cost, entry-level design. What sort of corners they have to cut to fit in a HDB fan at the price point?

 

The AVL (Approved Vendor List) may be wider than what you see on a single sample in which what they uses can depend on what they have on hand. On top of my head, aside from the Teapo on the primary side, it uses a variety caps such as including Su'scon (as with many Enhance build PSUs) on the secondary side, which Jeremy (Oklahoma Wolf), and Aris (reviewer at Toms and TPU) would class Su'scon with CapXon (Jeremy put them both in "Tier 3" with a one point deduction) or even below with JunFu, Elite, etc ([LINK].

 

As for Segotep PSUs using CapXon, at the price point we are talking about, we really can't be too picky. Since it utilize DC-DC, it offer vast improvements in line / load / crossload regulation, and because of this, I wouldn't go with any other PSU at this price point as they are all group-regulated. Btw, there are more contributing factors that affects the lifespan of the capacitors - not just the company that made them (which have been argue that suppliers of high-purity aluminum and quality control have improved over recent years. So depending on the series, they are a better option than they once were for PSUs usage). As Phaedrus once said (at JG) : "Temperature, average voltage, surge voltage, voltage ripple, ripple current, usage pattern. There's a lot of factors that go into aluminum capacitor lifetime. All relative to the ratings and build quality of the cap itself. A good engineer minimizes all factors that effect lifetime, to the greatest extent practical. Focusing on one to the exclusion of others is bad practice."

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On 4/29/2017 at 6:23 AM, EasonIDontKnowAnything said:

So I just found like two listings with the same branded psu. The brand is the same as mine. No it's not in the tier list. But the listings said 480W Psu "Max/Peak Power: 480W
Pure/Real Power: 230W" and my PSU is Max/Peak Power: 450W
Pure/Real Power: 200W" does that mean my psu is a 450W?

Wow, this tripped some alarms. 

 

First and foremost: Quality PSU's rate their Wattage taking in consideration their maximum power delivery on V12 Rail. And this is considering "constant draw". 

 

Peak draw is not something to care about on PC PSUs. Not by a long shot. Peak power is a rating that certain component can handle for milliseconds (a thousandth of a second). Nothing useful here. If the PSU is rated at 480W Peak that means NOTHING. You intend to put the unit inside a PC, where it will be functioning for hours. Why would you care about peak power. 

 

Second: there is no "Pure/Real power" Makes no sense. If the unit uses peak power to meassure the Wattage, stay away. May not be scientific but be sure it's fishy. It's like rating a car engine for the power it can deliver in the exact point of dramatic failure. Makes no sense. 

 

Third: Is not in the TIER list? Stay away until it is. If it's worth it will be there at some point. 

 

Forth: 230W PSU? It's either an OEM unit, or an old ass Pentium 3 era PSU. You can't find PSU's below 400W that are somewhat respectable. 

 

Fifth: Remember besides Wattage a proper unit handles the AC/DC power conversion withing a certain ripple value. 120mV for 12V rail, and so on. You don't have this information (probably). So it's worth nothing as far as quality goes. Consider it to be a crappy Chinese unit until jonny proves the opposite. 

 

Good luck!

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24 minutes ago, faziten said:

Wow, this tripped some alarms. 

 

First and foremost: Quality PSU's rate their Wattage taking in consideration their maximum power delivery on V12 Rail. And this is considering "constant draw". 

 

Peak draw is not something to care about on PC PSUs. Not by a long shot. Peak power is a rating that certain component can handle for milliseconds (a thousandth of a second). Nothing useful here. If the PSU is rated at 480W Peak that means NOTHING. You intend to put the unit inside a PC, where it will be functioning for hours. Why would you care about peak power. 

 

Second: there is no "Pure/Real power" Makes no sense. If the unit uses peak power to meassure the Wattage, stay away. May not be scientific but be sure it's fishy. It's like rating a car engine for the power it can deliver in the exact point of dramatic failure. Makes no sense. 

 

Third: Is not in the TIER list? Stay away until it is. If it's worth it will be there at some point. 

 

Forth: 230W PSU? It's either an OEM unit, or an old ass Pentium 3 era PSU. You can't find PSU's below 400W that are somewhat respectable. 

 

Fifth: Remember besides Wattage a proper unit handles the AC/DC power conversion withing a certain ripple value. 120mV for 12V rail, and so on. You don't have this information (probably). So it's worth nothing as far as quality goes. Consider it to be a crappy Chinese unit until jonny proves the opposite. 

 

Good luck!

Thanks for the info! This helped alot!

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There are a few quality units in the <400w range. Seasonic G 360 and Super Flower Golden Green 350 / HX for example. But it's not really relevant as those units aren't in the OP's budget range.

8 hours ago, EasonIDontKnowAnything said:

That is the one I had recommended at the 250 MYR and is better than the VS450. Does it have warranty? If it doesn't, I feel that spending 55MYR / 12.68 USD is a small price to pay for a new, unboxed unit at a store to get it.  I personally don't mind getting a used PSU myself, as even if it is without warranty, I can attempt to fix it myself; however, I don't want you to spend 195 MYR have it not work because of manufacturer defect with no way to return / fix.

 

Of course, it is your decision to make.

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