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i7700k gets up to 80°C

Vandeloy

here is a pic for you all, room is probably low 20 degrees.

 

test.png

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22 minutes ago, Mr_VNDL said:

A similar issue here with a 7600k and H100i v2.
part list. https://nz.pcpartpicker.com/list/n9D8yf

I'm monitoring the temps with HWiNFO and seem to be finding something strange.

When under high load the CPU temp jumps instantly to 70 degrees and then works its way up to 80.
liquid temp in the H100i v2 gets to about 40 after a while (this is where I have the fan speed pick up from minimum), this is as hot as the cooler gets.
as soon as I reduce the load on the CPU (almost instantly) the temp drops to 40 or whatever the liquid temp is.

I originally thought the issue may have been the well knowing H100I loose backplate due to the motherboard being thin but have added nylon m4 washers to the back so now I  can get the cooler tight on the CPU before the thumb nuts bottom out on the standoffs.

I'll run a test and screen shot the temps

7 minutes ago, Mr_VNDL said:

here is a pic for you all, room is probably low 20 degrees.

 

Your H100i AIO is heatsoaking.  The only way around this is to try to prevent the water temps from climbing as high as they are.  You'll need to set your fan curve to max a lot sooner than it is now.  

 

The reason your CPU temps only drop to 40c when coming out of load is that the CPU can't drop any lower than the water temp.  If the water is 40c, the coolest the CPU idle temp will be is 40c.

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1 hour ago, done12many2 said:

 

Your H100i AIO is heatsoaking.  The only way around this is to try to prevent the water temps from climbing as high as they are.  You'll need to set your fan curve to max a lot sooner than it is now.  

 

The reason your CPU temps only drop to 40c when coming out of load is that the CPU can't drop any lower than the water temp.  If the water is 40c, the coolest the CPU idle temp will be is 40c.

 
 

what sort of temperature should I  be trying to keep the H100i at? I didn't think 40 was too high for the liquid.
I was more shocked that the CPU temp would be 80 while the AIO is only 40

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On 2/24/2017 at 4:48 AM, vojta.pokorny said:

Some people (myself included) are not willing to lose their warranty with delidding.

You don't lose your warranty by delidding, you can re-seal it with things you can find at your local hardware store or walmart and RMA it still, I know a few people that have done it with no issues.

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33 minutes ago, Mr_VNDL said:

what sort of temperature should I  be trying to keep the H100i at? I didn't think 40 was too high for the liquid.
I was more shocked that the CPU temp would be 80 while the AIO is only 40

Fluid temps should never exceed 60C in general for watercooling, but are you overclocking though if not then it should be a little lower than it is currently. 

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18 minutes ago, W-L said:

Fluid temps should never exceed 60C in general for watercooling, but are you overclocking though if not then it should be a little lower than it is currently. 

I think there is a 10% overclock done by the motherboard. this is my first custom PC so I'm just working out what is normal

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2 minutes ago, Mr_VNDL said:

I think there is a 10% overclock done by the motherboard. this is my first custom PC so I'm just working out what is normal

What are the setting of the overclock, as most auto-overclocks tend to overdo it on the voltage. 

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11 hours ago, Vandeloy said:

Ok, thank you!

I guess the custom water loop, is better than my cooler, but the overclock should even that out.

I really hope I can get my temperaturestuff to change. Tomorrow, when I'm reseating the pump I'll take a picture of how he thermal paste is applied, maybe someone could give their opinion on that.

My system is in a Lian Li PC-O6SX and therefore only has a slim 360 radiator, but still idle temps around 40C are fine imo.

 

Could be that you applied too little thermal paste?

"To the wise, life is a problem; to the fool, a solution" (Marcus Aurelius)

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This is how the thermal paste is applied. I honestly can't tell if that's too much, too less or if it's not enough distributed.

It would be great if someone more experienced could give their opinion on it!

20170226_112645.jpg

20170226_112658.jpg

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Ok, so I did some more testing. The problem seems to be my water temperature. It goes up to 38°C, even though the fans are spinning at 2200 RPM. Does anyone have a clue how to fix that?

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when the pump was removed from the CPU, were the standoffs of the h100 'loose', even when fully tightened?

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15 minutes ago, airdeano said:

when the pump was removed from the CPU, were the standoffs of the h100 'loose', even when fully tightened?

Yes!

But when I put the pump back in place, everything got tightened.

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might try the older h100i mod, insert rubber o-rings on the backplate to raise the clamping force:

h100i mod.png

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2 hours ago, airdeano said:

might try the older h100i mod, insert rubber o-rings on the backplate to raise the clamping force:

h100i mod.png

I'll look into that. Thanks!

 

 

Do you guys think those high temperatures could also come from my motherboard and the voltage the CPU is running at?

I have an Asus Z270-a Prime and the CPU is running at 1.2v under full load. I've never done something like decreasing the voltage so I'd like your opinion on it before I do it.

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depends on the recent UEFI installed as TTL has said this can be important for temperatures outcome.

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On 2/25/2017 at 4:09 PM, Mr_VNDL said:

A similar issue here with a 7600k and H100i v2.
part list. https://nz.pcpartpicker.com/list/n9D8yf

I'm monitoring the temps with HWiNFO and seem to be finding something strange.

When under high load the CPU temp jumps instantly to 70 degrees and then works its way up to 80.
liquid temp in the H100i v2 gets to about 40 after a while (this is where I have the fan speed pick up from minimum), this is as hot as the cooler gets.
as soon as I reduce the load on the CPU (almost instantly) the temp drops to 40 or whatever the liquid temp is.

I originally thought the issue may have been the well knowing H100I loose backplate due to the motherboard being thin but have added nylon m4 washers to the back so now I  can get the cooler tight on the CPU before the thumb nuts bottom out on the standoffs.

I'll run a test and screen shot the temps

You probably have a bad mount. I had this issue when first using Corsair AIOs. The tubes are very stiff, if you don't mount it with the tubes relaxed (take it out of the case), it's almost impossible to get a perfect seal. With a good mount the temperature difference of the water vs the CPU should only be about 25C at most under load (mine is about 42-45C when my CPU is 60-65 under load). Try remounting it.

 

Don't worry about the loose plate, you don't need o-rings, it tightens up when you mount the cooler.

 

You might also want to check out my signature and make sure you're not having the issue outlined there. Since you're using HWinfo and AIDA you might have that issue.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

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Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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Seems like I have figured out what's the problem!

It seems to be because of my case, a be quiet! Silent Base 600. The very small air intakes/outtakes at the top of the case prevent the air from the radiator to leave the case, resulting in the developement of a hot air bubble right above the radiator. 

I removed the top cover and my coolant temps dropped for about 5°C, leading to my CPU getting cooler as well.

I messaged the be quiet! support, since they are even advertising great airflow and air circulation on their website.

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On 2/28/2017 at 1:00 PM, pyrojoe34 said:

You probably have a bad mount. I had this issue when first using Corsair AIOs. The tubes are very stiff, if you don't mount it with the tubes relaxed (take it out of the case), it's almost impossible to get a perfect seal. With a good mount the temperature difference of the water vs the CPU should only be about 25C at most under load (mine is about 42-45C when my CPU is 60-65 under load). Try remounting it.

 

Don't worry about the loose plate, you don't need o-rings, it tightens up when you mount the cooler.

 

You might also want to check out my signature and make sure you're not having the issue outlined there. Since you're using HWinfo and AIDA you might have that issue.

 

Have already remounted the block, used 2 m4 nylon washers on the back to bring the front of the studs on the backplate flush with the front of the motherboard.

before the standoffs were bottomed out on both the backplate and block but now I have about 1mm of thread left on the block side. washers were definitely needed. 

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On 3/1/2017 at 1:21 AM, Vandeloy said:

Seems like I have figured out what's the problem!

It seems to be because of my case, a be quiet! Silent Base 600. The very small air intakes/outtakes at the top of the case prevent the air from the radiator to leave the case, resulting in the developement of a hot air bubble right above the radiator. 

I removed the top cover and my coolant temps dropped for about 5°C, leading to my CPU getting cooler as well.

I messaged the be quiet! support, since they are even advertising great airflow and air circulation on their website.

 

glad you sorted it I can feel cold air coming out the top vents on my case so I'm not getting that, I was concerned with the gap of having a 240mm rad in a space that can take a 360 and having the warm air flow back into the case through that space so I blocked it with a piece of cardboard.

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  • 2 months later...

I know this is a kind of old thread, but I wanted to chime in real quick because if the OP is using an open fan GPU his CPU temps could be hotter because he is using a top radiator mount.  Switching to a front rad mount and having better fans as exhaust in the top/back of the case may significantly reduce the temps, I suggest going to watch Bitwit's video on the rad placement tests he did with both blower and open cards for both top and front mount AIO.  The CPU with open air GPU dropped 10* by mounting in the front because the GPU wasn't venting all the hot air right into the radiator.  I would also re-mount the CPU block again and first make sure you have a nice even coat of thermal paste instead of globbing a bunch on there, it looks a bit thick/uneven in the pics.

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