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Which Amplifier do I need!

I have recently gotten into high-end subwoofers, and I plan on putting an 18" Platform 5 in my room. My first question is how many watts can my wall outlet handle? Its a normal three phase 110 volt outlet. Will that outlet even be able to run a Platform 5 at full power? If so, which amp should I buy as far as watts?

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Wall outlets can do 1500W if you're talking about a regular 15A breaker which is what most homes use.

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4 hours ago, MTGKING said:

I have recently gotten into high-end subwoofers, and I plan on putting an 18" Platform 5 in my room. My first question is how many watts can my wall outlet handle? Its a normal three phase 110 volt outlet. Will that outlet even be able to run a Platform 5 at full power? If so, which amp should I buy as far as watts?

A normal 120 Volt outlet is single phase, and will handle 1875 watts as an absolute maximum, but 1500 watts is normally the "safe" limit. But as I said in a previous post...

 

Why are you getting a car subwoofer for your room? If sound quality actually matters to you, I would go with a Dayton RSS460HO and a Behringer iNuke 3000. That will allow you to have 880w into a 4 ohm load, and still have one channel left over if you want to get a second subwoofer down the road. If you value higher output over sound quality, you can go with the UM18-22 Instead, but I think the 460HO will be plenty unless your room is very large.

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5 hours ago, MTGKING said:

I have recently gotten into high-end subwoofers, and I plan on putting an 18" Platform 5 in my room. My first question is how many watts can my wall outlet handle? Its a normal three phase 110 volt outlet. Will that outlet even be able to run a Platform 5 at full power? If so, which amp should I buy as far as watts?

You have three phase power? 

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2 hours ago, klh2000 said:

A normal 120 Volt outlet is single phase, and will handle 1875 watts as an absolute maximum, but 1500 watts is normally the "safe" limit. But as I said in a previous post...

 

Why are you getting a car subwoofer for your room? If sound quality actually matters to you, I would go with a Dayton RSS460HO and a Behringer iNuke 3000. That will allow you to have 880w into a 4 ohm load, and still have one channel left over if you want to get a second subwoofer down the road. If you value higher output over sound quality, you can go with the UM18-22 Instead, but I think the 460HO will be plenty unless your room is very large.

I was wrong about the 120 volt three phase. I checked, and I have the normal 110 volt 15 amp outlet. I am still learning about subs, so sorry for being such a noob. So yes, 1500 watts is the "max".

If I get the Behringer iNuke 3000, will I be able to run 2x UM18-22 in parallel at FULL power?

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3 minutes ago, MTGKING said:

I was wrong about the 120 volt three phase. I checked, and I have the normal 110 volt 15 amp outlet. I am still learning about subs, so sorry for being such a noob. So yes, 1500 watts is the "max".

If I get the Behringer iNuke 3000, will I be able to run 2x UM18-22 in parallel at FULL power?

Just a heads up, you're going to go deaf very young, and you're likely going to have the police called on you more than once if you're actually going to blast those frequently.

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1 minute ago, MTGKING said:

I was wrong about the 120 volt three phase. I checked, and I have the normal 110 volt 15 amp outlet. I am still learning about subs, so sorry for being such a noob. So yes, 1500 watts is the "max".

If I get the Behringer iNuke 3000, will I be able to run 2x UM18-22 in parallel at FULL power?

Not on a standard 15 amp, 120v outlet. The proper way to run a high power amp like that would be a 30 amp, 120v outlet. That would be able to provide 3600 watts of power. That would require running a 10 awg line from the distribution panel to a 30 amp rated plug. A different (and cheaper) option would to use the existing wiring (most likely 14 awg) and swap out the plug for a Nema 6-15, then connect line through a 15 amp breaker wired to 240v (L - N - L). Either option should be performed by a licensed electrition, and either option would also require a dedicated plus, with it's own separate run of wire from the distribution panel.

`

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1 minute ago, MTGKING said:

If I was 12, how in the hell could I afford those? Also, how is being a home entertainment enthusiast stupid?

 

I mean, when I was 12, we had a $44,000 sound system at home. I'm sure I could have convinced my parents to spend $400 on a set of speakers had I wanted to.

 

I never said that being an entertainment enthusiast was stupid. It's not. What I said was that it's stupid to be planning on having the cops called on you, and it's stupid to plan on going deaf at a young age. That's what's stupid. Hell, I wouldn't even give a shit if you wanted the highest fidelity speakers possible, just so you could watch porn in glorious hifi sound. It's dumb that you're planning to be an asshole to your neighbors and that you're literally wanting to irreversibly damage your body. 

Hey! New SIgnature! 

 

I'm supposedly a person on the Internet, but you'll never know if I'm human or not ;)

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5 minutes ago, klh2000 said:

Not on a standard 15 amp, 120v outlet. The proper way to run a high power amp like that would be a 30 amp, 120v outlet. That would be able to provide 3600 watts of power. That would require running a 10 awg line from the distribution panel to a 30 amp rated plug. A different (and cheaper) option would to use the existing wiring (most likely 14 awg) and swap out the plug for a Nema 6-15, then connect line through a 15 amp breaker wired to 240v (L - N - L). Either option should be performed by a licensed electrition, and either option would also require a dedicated plus, with it's own separate run of wire from the distribution panel.

Some of the plugs in my house are actually 30 amps, like in the kitchen and for appliances. Could I just run an extension cord? Would it then power both subs at full power?

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1 minute ago, MTGKING said:

Some of the plugs in my house are actually 30 amps, like in the kitchen and for appliances. Could I just run an extension cord? Would it then power both subs at full power?

If your extension cord isn't rated for that kind of power draw, it will likely catch something on fire or melt your outlets.

Hey! New SIgnature! 

 

I'm supposedly a person on the Internet, but you'll never know if I'm human or not ;)

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1 minute ago, MTGKING said:

Some of the plugs in my house are actually 30 amps, like in the kitchen and for appliances. Could I just run an extension cord? Would it then power both subs at full power?

That would work fine, just remember to use a 10 awg extension cord. How big is your room? A single Dayton RSS460HO  would be enough for home theater purposes.

`

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2 minutes ago, MTGKING said:

Some of the plugs in my house are actually 30 amps, like in the kitchen and for appliances. Could I just run an extension cord? Would it then power both subs at full power?

The only reason I can even do this project is because I do not have any neighbors within a mile of me. They will hopefully still hear it though lol.

Plus, I don't plan on watching Spongebob at 160 decibels, so I should be fine.

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25 minutes ago, MTGKING said:

I was wrong about the 120 volt three phase. I checked, and I have the normal 110 volt 15 amp outlet. I am still learning about subs, so sorry for being such a noob. So yes, 1500 watts is the "max".

If I get the Behringer iNuke 3000, will I be able to run 2x UM18-22 in parallel at FULL power?

in bridged mode that amp will be way powerfull enough. With two subs in series that 4 ohms 2000 watts and in bridged mode you got 3k watts at 4 ohms so dont turn it up too much on the amp or shits going to go bang.

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8 minutes ago, MTGKING said:

The only reason I can even do this project is because I do not have any neighbors within a mile of me. They will hopefully still hear it though lol.

Plus, I don't plan on watching Spongebob at 160 decibels, so I should be fine.

Do the simple maths. Every time you double the distance reduce the volume by 6dB
Ie speaker at 1 meter is 100 dB at 2 meters its 94 dB at 4 meters its 88dB at 8 meters its 82 dB.
Most houses can reduce volume by 40 to 50 dB so calculate the distance from your house to there and work out the volume inside their house and outside.

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7 minutes ago, Ahoy Hoy said:

in bridged mode that amp will be way powerfull enough. With two subs in series that 4 ohms 2000 watts and in bridged mode you got 3k watts at 4 ohms so dont turn it up too much on the amp or shits going to go bang.

 

16 minutes ago, klh2000 said:

That would work fine, just remember to use a 10 awg extension cord. How big is your room? A single Dayton RSS460HO  would be enough for home theater purposes.

I've been changing my mind all day, and I've done it again.

I want one single, quality built subwoofer that I can power with an amp that i can just plug into a 120 volt 15 amp outlet. I want that sub to be able to run at 100% power, and produce the maximum amount of "house shaking" physically possible. I do not want an amp with more output then my sub can handle, because I don't want there to be any chance of me blowing up my sub or damaging it. I guess getting an 18" is not mandatory, so if there is something better I can run I will. Thanks for helping me so much guys:D

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5 minutes ago, MTGKING said:

 

I've been changing my mind all day, and I've done it again.

I want one single, quality built subwoofer that I can power with an amp that i can just plug into a 120 volt 15 amp outlet. I want that sub to be able to run at 100% power, and produce the maximum amount of "house shaking" physically possible. I do not want an amp with more output then my sub can handle, because I don't want there to be any chance of me blowing up my sub or damaging it. I guess getting an 18" is not mandatory, so if there is something better I can run I will. Thanks for helping me so much guys:D

most subs are self powered units, if you buy one that's already made, which makes the whole amp matching thing a lot easier, as you don't actually have to deal with it in the first place.

Hey! New SIgnature! 

 

I'm supposedly a person on the Internet, but you'll never know if I'm human or not ;)

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9 minutes ago, MTGKING said:

 

I've been changing my mind all day, and I've done it again.

I want one single, quality built subwoofer that I can power with an amp that i can just plug into a 120 volt 15 amp outlet. I want that sub to be able to run at 100% power, and produce the maximum amount of "house shaking" physically possible. I do not want an amp with more output then my sub can handle, because I don't want there to be any chance of me blowing up my sub or damaging it. I guess getting an 18" is not mandatory, so if there is something better I can run I will. Thanks for helping me so much guys:D

The Dayton RSS460HO can only handle 900 watts, so a 1000 watt amp will be fine. The NU1000 iNuke would be a good fit.

 

Edit: If the intended use is home theater, the NU1000DSP would be a better fit because it allows you to adjust the crossover point and many other settings on board. You will also want to run it in bridged mode. If you want the proper cabinet and the sub, parts express sells a bundle. If you want the bass to go lower than 40Hz, a 7.6cuFt vented enclosure would be the way to go.

`

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10 hours ago, MTGKING said:

If I was 12, how in the hell could I afford those? Also, how is being a home entertainment enthusiast stupid?

 

I would not call not knowing anything, wanting to go deaf, and blast 1000w subs on full a home entertainment enthusiest.

n0ah1897, on 05 Mar 2014 - 2:08 PM, said:  "Computers are like girls. It's whats in the inside that matters.  I don't know about you, but I like my girls like I like my cases. Just as beautiful on the inside as the outside."

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14 hours ago, MTGKING said:

home entertainment enthusiast

 

Interesting choice of words.

 

14 hours ago, MTGKING said:

If I was 12, how in the hell could I afford those?

 

This wording is the giveaway that you're 12:

 

22 hours ago, MTGKING said:

I have recently gotten into high-end subwoofers, and I plan on putting an 18" Platform 5 in my room.

 

An adult would say "in the living room" or "home theater" or even "pleasure dungeon". A kid puts stuff "in their room" because that's the only place they're allowed to put anything.

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