Jump to content

Artefacts - Red dots/lines in dark shades of color

DXMember
Go to solution Solved by manikyath,
1 minute ago, don_svetlio said:

monitor dead?

my bet is on bad power supply caps.

 

monitors going iffy are generally related to input power, because *some monitor manufacturers* cheap out really bad on that stuff.

 

one of my displays actually gets better color accuracy when it's connected to a homebrew voltage dropper i made to take about 10 volts off of the input voltage.

So I get red dots/lines over shades of gray and blue colors

The artefacts appear even over OSD menu

This is an AHVA panel of BenQ BL2710PT

Does this look familiar to anyone?

Images attached

 

Just filed Support/RMA ticket but it's Sunday...

 

 

 

 


Lr9eXQN.jpg

SMjj8PJ.jpg

95aaxus.jpg

H5qUSw1.jpg
 

 

CPU: Intel i7 5820K @ 4.20 GHz | MotherboardMSI X99S SLI PLUS | RAM: Corsair LPX 16GB DDR4 @ 2666MHz | GPU: Sapphire R9 Fury (x2 CrossFire)
Storage: Samsung 950Pro 512GB // OCZ Vector150 240GB // Seagate 1TB | PSU: Seasonic 1050 Snow Silent | Case: NZXT H440 | Cooling: Nepton 240M
FireStrike // Extreme // Ultra // 8K // 16K

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

VRAM may be dead.

Archangel (Desktop) CPU: i5 4590 GPU:Asus R9 280  3GB RAM:HyperX Beast 2x4GBPSU:SeaSonic S12G 750W Mobo:GA-H97m-HD3 Case:CM Silencio 650 Storage:1 TB WD Red
Celestial (Laptop 1) CPU:i7 4720HQ GPU:GTX 860M 4GB RAM:2x4GB SK Hynix DDR3Storage: 250GB 850 EVO Model:Lenovo Y50-70
Seraph (Laptop 2) CPU:i7 6700HQ GPU:GTX 970M 3GB RAM:2x8GB DDR4Storage: 256GB Samsung 951 + 1TB Toshiba HDD Model:Asus GL502VT

Windows 10 is now MSX! - http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/440190-can-we-start-calling-windows-10/page-6

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, don_svetlio said:

VRAM may be dead.

are you talking GPU right now?

if not then I'd like to point out again - this also happens in monitors OSD and also shortly after the GPU shuts down and there is a "No display" notification with the backlight still on

CPU: Intel i7 5820K @ 4.20 GHz | MotherboardMSI X99S SLI PLUS | RAM: Corsair LPX 16GB DDR4 @ 2666MHz | GPU: Sapphire R9 Fury (x2 CrossFire)
Storage: Samsung 950Pro 512GB // OCZ Vector150 240GB // Seagate 1TB | PSU: Seasonic 1050 Snow Silent | Case: NZXT H440 | Cooling: Nepton 240M
FireStrike // Extreme // Ultra // 8K // 16K

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

that's the size of blocks you get when a gpu goes seriously unhappy.

my raspberry pi basicly does the same thing a few mhz before it crashes when OCing :P

 

although, if you mention it's also on the display's menu, it's pretty much sure that it's an issue with a chip in the display, rather than on the PC side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, DXMember said:

are you talking GPU right now?

if not then I'd like to point out again - this also happens in monitors OSD and also shortly after the GPU shuts down and there is a "No display" notification with the backlight still on

monitor dead?

Archangel (Desktop) CPU: i5 4590 GPU:Asus R9 280  3GB RAM:HyperX Beast 2x4GBPSU:SeaSonic S12G 750W Mobo:GA-H97m-HD3 Case:CM Silencio 650 Storage:1 TB WD Red
Celestial (Laptop 1) CPU:i7 4720HQ GPU:GTX 860M 4GB RAM:2x4GB SK Hynix DDR3Storage: 250GB 850 EVO Model:Lenovo Y50-70
Seraph (Laptop 2) CPU:i7 6700HQ GPU:GTX 970M 3GB RAM:2x8GB DDR4Storage: 256GB Samsung 951 + 1TB Toshiba HDD Model:Asus GL502VT

Windows 10 is now MSX! - http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/440190-can-we-start-calling-windows-10/page-6

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ugh. That sucks. At least BenQ has awesome RMA handling and customer support. This is just bad luck. BenQ business monitors are actually very high quality. I have three BL2400PTs all with 8700 - 9000 hours on and zero issues since 2012. No dead pixels/flickering/bleed or other signs of old age.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, don_svetlio said:

monitor dead?

my bet is on bad power supply caps.

 

monitors going iffy are generally related to input power, because *some monitor manufacturers* cheap out really bad on that stuff.

 

one of my displays actually gets better color accuracy when it's connected to a homebrew voltage dropper i made to take about 10 volts off of the input voltage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

42 minutes ago, manikyath said:

my bet is on bad power supply caps.

 

monitors going iffy are generally related to input power, because *some monitor manufacturers* cheap out really bad on that stuff.

 

one of my displays actually gets better color accuracy when it's connected to a homebrew voltage dropper i made to take about 10 volts off of the input voltage.

could it be some kind of permanent damage caused to the panel by anything,

like let's hypothetically assume a scenario where a user might or might not run the display at a higher refresh rate than that specified by manufacturer?

CPU: Intel i7 5820K @ 4.20 GHz | MotherboardMSI X99S SLI PLUS | RAM: Corsair LPX 16GB DDR4 @ 2666MHz | GPU: Sapphire R9 Fury (x2 CrossFire)
Storage: Samsung 950Pro 512GB // OCZ Vector150 240GB // Seagate 1TB | PSU: Seasonic 1050 Snow Silent | Case: NZXT H440 | Cooling: Nepton 240M
FireStrike // Extreme // Ultra // 8K // 16K

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, DXMember said:

could it be some kind of permanent damage caused to the panel by anything,

like let's hypothetically assume a scenario where a user might or might not run the display at a higher refresh rate than that specified by manufacturer?

if the display cant handle it it shouldnt try to display it.

 

all logic for displaying that refresh rate is in the display, and your computer can output what it want, if the display says "i cant do this" it wont do this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, manikyath said:

if the display cant handle it it shouldnt try to display it.

 

all logic for displaying that refresh rate is in the display, and your computer can output what it want, if the display says "i cant do this" it wont do this.

let's assume that this hypothetical user's display did in fact complain about the output being "Out of Range" a couple of times, but the user might have found a refresh rate that is below the "Out of range" error and still above manufacturer's specification, like for example let's assume a display that is supposed to run 60Hz by specification manages to accept a 70Hz input

CPU: Intel i7 5820K @ 4.20 GHz | MotherboardMSI X99S SLI PLUS | RAM: Corsair LPX 16GB DDR4 @ 2666MHz | GPU: Sapphire R9 Fury (x2 CrossFire)
Storage: Samsung 950Pro 512GB // OCZ Vector150 240GB // Seagate 1TB | PSU: Seasonic 1050 Snow Silent | Case: NZXT H440 | Cooling: Nepton 240M
FireStrike // Extreme // Ultra // 8K // 16K

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, DXMember said:

let's assume that this hypothetical user's display did in fact complain about the output being "Out of Range" a couple of times, but the user might have found a refresh rate that is below the "Out of range" error and still above manufacturer's specification, like for example let's assume a display that is supposed to run 60Hz by specification manages to accept a 70Hz input

it accepts the input, so it should be capable of handling the input.

 

the moment it goes out of range, the display's internal logic tells you it cannot do this.

if it'd break at 70Hz, it should say "out of range" when you do this. (like all of my displays do, fyi.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, manikyath said:

my bet is on bad power supply caps.

 

monitors going iffy are generally related to input power, because *some monitor manufacturers* cheap out really bad on that stuff.

 

one of my displays actually gets better color accuracy when it's connected to a homebrew voltage dropper i made to take about 10 volts off of the input voltage.

Left the monitor unplugged over night and it fixed itself

thanks.

CPU: Intel i7 5820K @ 4.20 GHz | MotherboardMSI X99S SLI PLUS | RAM: Corsair LPX 16GB DDR4 @ 2666MHz | GPU: Sapphire R9 Fury (x2 CrossFire)
Storage: Samsung 950Pro 512GB // OCZ Vector150 240GB // Seagate 1TB | PSU: Seasonic 1050 Snow Silent | Case: NZXT H440 | Cooling: Nepton 240M
FireStrike // Extreme // Ultra // 8K // 16K

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×