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CPU overclocking failure - Dead PSU (with d*cpics)

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My specs:

Intel i7-5820K - 4.2 GHz @ 1.265V

Corsair Vengence LPX 16GB DDR4 4x4 kit

MSI X99S SLI PLUS

Boot drive: Samsung 950 Pro 512GB

Scrap drive: OCZ Vector 150 240GB

Hard Drive: Seagate 1TB

Sapphire R9 Fury (2x Crossfire)

 

 

And so my PSU just crapped out yesterday.

When issues started to appear it coincided with the release of Radeon Crimson (so end of november) - when shutting down windows 60~70% of the time windows would shut down fine and screen went to black but the PSU kept running and the components were still on so I had to turn it off by holding power button. I would not imagine that would be PSU related so I thought to myself that has to do with drivers and crossfire setup probably and will get fixed soon enough.

Yesterday while playing GTA Online with friends I got a sudden system reboot - like nothing, I again thought to myself "hmm... probably the power went off, that's weird none of the other devices turned off, maybe it was a power surge or a voltage spike in the main line and the PC is more sensitive so it probably shut down to prevent damage".

After the reboot everything seemed fine, kept playing GTA for another hour or so. Then I turned to another game called FlyFF, after about 40 minutes of that BAAM, got another system shut down, this time motherboards 24-pin connector lit up a red LED indicating "Bad Power". I turned off PSU for a couple of seconds, turned it back on - seems to be fine. Thought to myself - "oh, there's definitely something going on in the main power line, that's weird" .

Turned back the PC and just to make sure run some stress tests to validate there's nothing damaged and nothing's wrong with PSU, run a fast 10-loop standard IntelBurnTest - came out a success,

run a Furmark for a couple of minutes - came out fine. Opened up browser to watch myself some youtube - BAAAM, I get another system reboot.

When it came back I put Firestrike Extreme Combined test on loop and as it finished 4th loop I was about to leave it and go away for an hour - I get a system reboot and the PC locks up in a restart loop without being able to run POST.

 

Damn it!! I turned off PSU again, went for a shower. When I came back I decided to rip it open and look for some connector that might have fallen out or something.

To my satisfaction I find that 24-pin is quite loose on the PSU side, it was definitely in place and was connected just fine but the security clip didn't clip. So I decided to check the rest of them - next was CPU 8-pin, it was hard in there, like too hard I kept twisting it until I got out and it turns out one of the power pins had melted the connectors plastic.

 

Just brought the PSU to my retailer and they were as shocked as I was.

I came in and told my PSU died, the clerk smiled at me and then I pulled out the Seasonic 1000W platinum series box, he stood there with eyes wide open and ask @.@ - "this one died??"

- Yeah, the CPU connector melted on the PSU side

- @.@ the CPU connector? On this PSU... wow...

- Yeah, I know... didn't do anything crazy to it, I promise.

- Okay, we're taking it in for warranty service.

- Maybe you have something to fill in for the service time?

- Nothing of that caliber is in stock... the best we have is a CX550 but it's in order for a client

- Yeah, no that ain't going to work...

 

So boo-hoo I'm without a gaming rig for 2 to 4 weeks....

 

 

And as promised, here are some d*cpics

(​Dead Power Cable PICtureS):

rH4uYh6.jpg

1VLp2yw.jpg

oPoLpUc.jpg

 

And as you were about to post something along the lines of - don' t cheap out on your PSU:

That's a Seasonic SS-1000XP Platinum Series power supply unit that is placed in God Tier on PSU Tier liest

U4HoMn7.jpg

 

 

STATUS UPDATE:

A.K.A my experience with RMA 

CPU: Intel i7 5820K @ 4.20 GHz | MotherboardMSI X99S SLI PLUS | RAM: Corsair LPX 16GB DDR4 @ 2666MHz | GPU: Sapphire R9 Fury (x2 CrossFire)
Storage: Samsung 950Pro 512GB // OCZ Vector150 240GB // Seagate 1TB | PSU: Seasonic 1050 Snow Silent | Case: NZXT H440 | Cooling: Nepton 240M
FireStrike // Extreme // Ultra // 8K // 16K

 

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I think i'm with the clerk on this one: 0_o

did you accidentally apply some absurd Voltage or something?

Aftermarket 980Ti >= Fury X >= Reference 980Ti > Fury > 980 > 390X > 390 >= 970 380X > 380 >= 960 > 950 >= 370 > 750Ti = 360

"The Orange Box" || CPU: i5 4690k || RAM: Kingston Hyper X Fury 16GB || Case: Aerocool DS200 (Orange) || Cooler: Cryorig R1 Ultimate || Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 240GB + WD Black 1TB || PSU: Corsair RM750 || Mobo: ASUS Z97-A || GPU: EVGA GTX 970 FTW+

"Unnamed Form Factor Switch" || CPU: i7 6700K || RAM: Kingston HyperX Fury 16GB || Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Mini ITX (White) || Cooler: Cryorig R1 Ultimate (Green Cover) || Storage: Samsung 850 Evo 1TB || PSU: XFX XTR 550W || Mobo: ASUS Z170I Pro Gaming || GPU: EVGA GTX 970 FTW+

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hahaha

inb4 seasonic is BS cause it broke onetime and will never be recommended on the Forum again :P

CPU: Xeon 1230v3 - GPU: GTX 770  - SSD: 120GB 840 Evo - HDD: WD Blue 1TB - RAM: Ballistix 8GB - Case: CM N400 - PSU: CX 600M - Cooling: Cooler Master 212 Evo

Update Plans: Mini ITX this bitch

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I think i'm with the clerk on this one: 0_o

did you accidentally apply some absurd Voltage or something?

not really was running the same overclock for almost a year straight.

CPU: Intel i7 5820K @ 4.20 GHz | MotherboardMSI X99S SLI PLUS | RAM: Corsair LPX 16GB DDR4 @ 2666MHz | GPU: Sapphire R9 Fury (x2 CrossFire)
Storage: Samsung 950Pro 512GB // OCZ Vector150 240GB // Seagate 1TB | PSU: Seasonic 1050 Snow Silent | Case: NZXT H440 | Cooling: Nepton 240M
FireStrike // Extreme // Ultra // 8K // 16K

 

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I really thought you said dickpics....

 

 

But that sucks, could have been the connector on the motherboard that caused the failure, which given that its MSI it wouldn't surprise me at all.

I kno' right, best bait topic title ever.

 

the weird part is that it's just one wire and it's the plastic that got melted and it's on the PSU side, probably got a spark or something,

saw a 180*C rating printed on the wire itself though

CPU: Intel i7 5820K @ 4.20 GHz | MotherboardMSI X99S SLI PLUS | RAM: Corsair LPX 16GB DDR4 @ 2666MHz | GPU: Sapphire R9 Fury (x2 CrossFire)
Storage: Samsung 950Pro 512GB // OCZ Vector150 240GB // Seagate 1TB | PSU: Seasonic 1050 Snow Silent | Case: NZXT H440 | Cooling: Nepton 240M
FireStrike // Extreme // Ultra // 8K // 16K

 

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hahaha

inb4 seasonic is BS cause it broke onetime and will never be recommended on the Forum again :P

)))) yeah... never expected it to crap out like that,

I was maybe expecting the MoBo to die first or the reused 4 year old hard drive.

 

On the other hand rest of the components seem to be unharmed which I am very glad for,

if it was a CX builder PSU I'd probably be in a hospital with 3rd degree burns right now, lol, jk

CPU: Intel i7 5820K @ 4.20 GHz | MotherboardMSI X99S SLI PLUS | RAM: Corsair LPX 16GB DDR4 @ 2666MHz | GPU: Sapphire R9 Fury (x2 CrossFire)
Storage: Samsung 950Pro 512GB // OCZ Vector150 240GB // Seagate 1TB | PSU: Seasonic 1050 Snow Silent | Case: NZXT H440 | Cooling: Nepton 240M
FireStrike // Extreme // Ultra // 8K // 16K

 

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)))) yeah... never expected it to crap out like that,

I was maybe expecting the MoBo to die first or the reused 4 year old hard drive.

 

On the other hand rest of the components seem to be unharmed which I am very glad for,

if it was a CX builder PSU I'd probably be in a hospital with 3rd degree burns right now, lol, jk

haha probably :D

CPU: Xeon 1230v3 - GPU: GTX 770  - SSD: 120GB 840 Evo - HDD: WD Blue 1TB - RAM: Ballistix 8GB - Case: CM N400 - PSU: CX 600M - Cooling: Cooler Master 212 Evo

Update Plans: Mini ITX this bitch

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My specs:

Intel i7-5820K - 4.2 GHz @ 1.265V

Corsair Vengence LPX 16GB DDR4 4x4 kit

MSI X99S SLI PLUS

Boot drive: Samsung 950 Pro 512GB

Scrap drive: OCZ Vector 150 240GB

Hard Drive: Seagate 1TB

Sapphire R9 Fury (2x Crossfire)

 

 

And so my PSU just crapped out yesterday.

When issues started to appear it coincided with the release of Radeon Crimson (so end of november) - when shutting down windows 60~70% of the time windows would shut down fine and screen went to black but the PSU kept running and the components were still on so I had to turn it off by holding power button. I would not imagine that would be PSU related so I thought to myself that has to do with drivers and crossfire setup probably and will get fixed soon enough.

Yesterday while playing GTA Online with friends I got a sudden system reboot - like nothing, I again thought to myself "hmm... probably the power went off, that's weird none of the other devices turned off, maybe it was a power surge or a voltage spike in the main line and the PC is more sensitive so it probably shut down to prevent damage".

After the reboot everything seemed fine, kept playing GTA for another hour or so. Then I turned to another game called FlyFF, after about 40 minutes of that BAAM, got another system shut down, this time motherboards 24-pin connector lit up a red LED indicating "Bad Power". I turned off PSU for a couple of seconds, turned it back on - seems to be fine. Thought to myself - "oh, there's definitely something going on in the main power line, that's weird" .

Turned back the PC and just to make sure run some stress tests to validate there's nothing damaged and nothing's wrong with PSU, run a fast 10-loop standard IntelBurnTest - came out a success,

run a Furmark for a couple of minutes - came out fine. Opened up browser to watch myself some youtube - BAAAM, I get another system reboot.

When it came back I put Firestrike Extreme Combined test on loop and as it finished 4th loop I was about to leave it and go away for an hour - I get a system reboot and the PC locks up in a restart loop without being able to run POST.

 

Damn it!! I turned off PSU again, went for a shower. When I came back I decided to rip it open and look for some connector that might have fallen out or something.

To my satisfaction I find that 24-pin is quite loose on the PSU side, it was definitely in place and was connected just fine but the security clip didn't clip. So I decided to check the rest of them - next was CPU 8-pin, it was hard in there, like too hard I kept twisting it until I got out and it turns out one of the power pins had melted the connectors plastic.

 

Just brought the PSU to my retailer and they were as shocked as I was.

I came in and told my PSU died, the clerk smiled at me and then I pulled out the Seasonic 1000W platinum series box, he stood there with eyes wide open and ask @.@ - "this one died??"

- Yeah, the CPU connector melted on the PSU side

- @.@ the CPU connector? On this PSU... wow...

- Yeah, I know... didn't do anything crazy to it, I promise.

- Okay, we're taking it in for warranty service.

- Maybe you have something to fill in for the service time?

- Nothing of that caliber is in stock... the best we have is a CX550 but it's in order for a client

- Yeah, no that ain't going to work...

 

So boo-hoo I'm without a gaming rig for 2 to 4 weeks....

RMA time...

Main Gaming Rig:

Spoiler

Core i7-4770, Cryorig M9i Cooler, ASUS B85M GAMER, 8GB HyperX Fury Red 2x4GB 1866MHz, KFA2 GTX 970 Infin8 Black Edition "4GB", 1TB Seagate SSHD, 256GB Crucial m4 SSD, 60GB Corsair SSD for Kerbal and game servers, Thermaltake Core V21 Case, EVGA SuperNOVA 650W G2.

Secondary PC:

Spoiler

i5-2500k OCed, Raijintek Themis, Intel Z77GA-70K, 8GB HyperX Genesis in grey, GTX 750 Ti, Gamemax Falcon case.

 

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)))) yeah... never expected it to crap out like that,

I was maybe expecting the MoBo to die first or the reused 4 year old hard drive.

 

On the other hand rest of the components seem to be unharmed which I am very glad for,

if it was a CX builder PSU I'd probably be in a hospital with 3rd degree burns right now, lol, jk

thank you people for giving me hope

CPU:Intel I5 6700k (4.7GHz)  Mobo:Asus maximus viii hero RAM:HyperX 16GB  GPU:MSI gtx1080 Gaming X
Case:Fractal Design Define S SSD:Kingston 240GB HDD:1TB & 2TB raid 0 PSU:Corsair RMX750 Cooling:H100i v2 OS:Windows 10
Display:Benq GL2440,LG 29" Keyboard:Tesoro Durandal Mouse:Deathadder Sound:2.1 GENESIS NCS-0856, PC-37X, Razer manowar
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any psu can die...

RIG #14670k @4.4 / 1.25v vcore. @ 4.5 / 1.3v vcore/ 1.95v vccin. MSI GAMING 4G GTX 970 @1540/3700 1.275v BIOS MOD. 16GB Kingston HyperX Savage RAM 2400mhz. MSI GAMING 5 Z97 MOBOFractal Design Define S. Dark Rock Pro 3. 850 EVO 250GB Seasonic M12II 620w
RIG #2: 4790k @ 4.6 / 1.25v vcore. EVGA SC ACX 2.0 980 SLI16GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2400mhz. Asus MAXIMUS VII Hero Z97. Fractal Design Define R5. NH D15. 850 EVO 250GB AX 860
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I think i'm with the clerk on this one: 0_o

did you accidentally apply some absurd Voltage or something?

i dont think if he applied absurd voltage to the cpu it would  smoke the psu.

are you an idiot?

RIG #14670k @4.4 / 1.25v vcore. @ 4.5 / 1.3v vcore/ 1.95v vccin. MSI GAMING 4G GTX 970 @1540/3700 1.275v BIOS MOD. 16GB Kingston HyperX Savage RAM 2400mhz. MSI GAMING 5 Z97 MOBOFractal Design Define S. Dark Rock Pro 3. 850 EVO 250GB Seasonic M12II 620w
RIG #2: 4790k @ 4.6 / 1.25v vcore. EVGA SC ACX 2.0 980 SLI16GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2400mhz. Asus MAXIMUS VII Hero Z97. Fractal Design Define R5. NH D15. 850 EVO 250GB AX 860
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It's very possible that something is shorting out the connector solder points on the back of the motherboard. For the connector to melt like that for no reason whatsoever is... odd. Unless of course out of the four yellow pins this was the only one that made contact. I doubt that though.

I cannot be held responsible for any bad advice given.

I've no idea why the world is afraid of 3D-printed guns when clearly 3D-printed crossbows would be more practical for now.

My rig: The StealthRay. Plans for a newer, better version of its mufflers are already being made.

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It's very possible that something is shorting out the connector solder points on the back of the motherboard. For the connector to melt like that for no reason whatsoever is... odd.

I would suspect that too, but even weirder is that's the connector on PSU side, if it looked like that on the MoBo side I would suspect the MoBo as well.

CPU: Intel i7 5820K @ 4.20 GHz | MotherboardMSI X99S SLI PLUS | RAM: Corsair LPX 16GB DDR4 @ 2666MHz | GPU: Sapphire R9 Fury (x2 CrossFire)
Storage: Samsung 950Pro 512GB // OCZ Vector150 240GB // Seagate 1TB | PSU: Seasonic 1050 Snow Silent | Case: NZXT H440 | Cooling: Nepton 240M
FireStrike // Extreme // Ultra // 8K // 16K

 

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i dont think if he applied absurd voltage to the cpu it would  smoke the psu.

are you an idiot?

Voltage X Current equals Power. power roughly equals heat. plastic melts. i accidentally applied 4 V (for like 5 seconds) because i didn't configure my adaptive voltage correctly.

 

I was attepting to find an explanation as to what could produce enough heat to melt a power connector.

Aftermarket 980Ti >= Fury X >= Reference 980Ti > Fury > 980 > 390X > 390 >= 970 380X > 380 >= 960 > 950 >= 370 > 750Ti = 360

"The Orange Box" || CPU: i5 4690k || RAM: Kingston Hyper X Fury 16GB || Case: Aerocool DS200 (Orange) || Cooler: Cryorig R1 Ultimate || Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 240GB + WD Black 1TB || PSU: Corsair RM750 || Mobo: ASUS Z97-A || GPU: EVGA GTX 970 FTW+

"Unnamed Form Factor Switch" || CPU: i7 6700K || RAM: Kingston HyperX Fury 16GB || Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Mini ITX (White) || Cooler: Cryorig R1 Ultimate (Green Cover) || Storage: Samsung 850 Evo 1TB || PSU: XFX XTR 550W || Mobo: ASUS Z170I Pro Gaming || GPU: EVGA GTX 970 FTW+

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Voltage X Current equals Power. power roughly equals heat. plastic melts. i accidentally applied 4 V (for like 5 seconds) because i didn't configure my adaptive voltage correctly,

and did it smoke your psu?

every mobo i owned wouldnt let me go over about 1.9v any way...

RIG #14670k @4.4 / 1.25v vcore. @ 4.5 / 1.3v vcore/ 1.95v vccin. MSI GAMING 4G GTX 970 @1540/3700 1.275v BIOS MOD. 16GB Kingston HyperX Savage RAM 2400mhz. MSI GAMING 5 Z97 MOBOFractal Design Define S. Dark Rock Pro 3. 850 EVO 250GB Seasonic M12II 620w
RIG #2: 4790k @ 4.6 / 1.25v vcore. EVGA SC ACX 2.0 980 SLI16GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2400mhz. Asus MAXIMUS VII Hero Z97. Fractal Design Define R5. NH D15. 850 EVO 250GB AX 860
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Could've been a lose connection on the PSU side that caused it.

Hello there, fellow dark theme users

"Be excellent to each other and party on dudes." - Abraham Lincoln    #wiiumasterrace

 

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CPU:Intel I5 6700k (4.7GHz)  Mobo:Asus maximus viii hero RAM:HyperX 16GB  GPU:MSI gtx1080 Gaming X
Case:Fractal Design Define S SSD:Kingston 240GB HDD:1TB & 2TB raid 0 PSU:Corsair RMX750 Cooling:H100i v2 OS:Windows 10
Display:Benq GL2440,LG 29" Keyboard:Tesoro Durandal Mouse:Deathadder Sound:2.1 GENESIS NCS-0856, PC-37X, Razer manowar
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and did it smoke your psu?

every mobo i owned wouldnt let me go over about 1.9v any way...

no.

 

but to "er" is human  (or am I out of touch with humanity)

Aftermarket 980Ti >= Fury X >= Reference 980Ti > Fury > 980 > 390X > 390 >= 970 380X > 380 >= 960 > 950 >= 370 > 750Ti = 360

"The Orange Box" || CPU: i5 4690k || RAM: Kingston Hyper X Fury 16GB || Case: Aerocool DS200 (Orange) || Cooler: Cryorig R1 Ultimate || Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 240GB + WD Black 1TB || PSU: Corsair RM750 || Mobo: ASUS Z97-A || GPU: EVGA GTX 970 FTW+

"Unnamed Form Factor Switch" || CPU: i7 6700K || RAM: Kingston HyperX Fury 16GB || Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Mini ITX (White) || Cooler: Cryorig R1 Ultimate (Green Cover) || Storage: Samsung 850 Evo 1TB || PSU: XFX XTR 550W || Mobo: ASUS Z170I Pro Gaming || GPU: EVGA GTX 970 FTW+

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I would suspect that too, but even weirder is that's the connector on PSU side, if it looked like that on the MoBo side I would suspect the MoBo as well.

Well the board itself could act as a heatsink for the connector on that side. Also, the connection itself is the point of highest resistance, so in the event of a short that's where the heat would be generated, and the PSU-side connector has the innermost layer of plastic around the metal pins.

I cannot be held responsible for any bad advice given.

I've no idea why the world is afraid of 3D-printed guns when clearly 3D-printed crossbows would be more practical for now.

My rig: The StealthRay. Plans for a newer, better version of its mufflers are already being made.

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Yeah, that's the wrong one. What you show is a PCIe 8-pin, which is not identical to a CPU 8pin. Also, yellow wire means 12V.

I cannot be held responsible for any bad advice given.

I've no idea why the world is afraid of 3D-printed guns when clearly 3D-printed crossbows would be more practical for now.

My rig: The StealthRay. Plans for a newer, better version of its mufflers are already being made.

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no.

 

but to "er" is human  (or am I out of touch with humanity)

whatever... also i think if you applied 4v it would kill your cpu.. maybe you mean or 0.4v over your previous voltage..

RIG #14670k @4.4 / 1.25v vcore. @ 4.5 / 1.3v vcore/ 1.95v vccin. MSI GAMING 4G GTX 970 @1540/3700 1.275v BIOS MOD. 16GB Kingston HyperX Savage RAM 2400mhz. MSI GAMING 5 Z97 MOBOFractal Design Define S. Dark Rock Pro 3. 850 EVO 250GB Seasonic M12II 620w
RIG #2: 4790k @ 4.6 / 1.25v vcore. EVGA SC ACX 2.0 980 SLI16GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2400mhz. Asus MAXIMUS VII Hero Z97. Fractal Design Define R5. NH D15. 850 EVO 250GB AX 860
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that's neat... I would think they would use black wires for the ground to make it easier at for manufacturing,

so since it's a ground pin you think it's a SPARK SPARK SPARK that caused it?

CPU: Intel i7 5820K @ 4.20 GHz | MotherboardMSI X99S SLI PLUS | RAM: Corsair LPX 16GB DDR4 @ 2666MHz | GPU: Sapphire R9 Fury (x2 CrossFire)
Storage: Samsung 950Pro 512GB // OCZ Vector150 240GB // Seagate 1TB | PSU: Seasonic 1050 Snow Silent | Case: NZXT H440 | Cooling: Nepton 240M
FireStrike // Extreme // Ultra // 8K // 16K

 

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