NCase M1 custom loop

[Colibri]

Hi,

I’ve just finished my new build. Here is my parts list:

• NCase M1
• Corsair SF600
• Asus Z170i Pro Gaming
• Intel Core i7 6700K
• G.Skill Trident Z DDR4 2 x 16Go 3400 MHz
• nVidia GTX 1080 Founders Edition
• Samsung 950 Pro 512Go
• EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM
• EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal + Nickel
• EK-FC1080 GTX Acetal + Nickel
• EK-FC1080 GTX Backplate
• EK-CoolStream SE 240
• EK-HD PETG Tube 12/16mm
• EK-HDC Fitting
• Noctua NF-B9 Redux 1600 PWM
• 2 x Raijintek Aeolus Beta PWM

Pictures !

It was the first time I’ve done a custom loop and it was a long journey to finish the build.

I had to change my old Magicool MCP 180 Res / Pump combo because it was leaking and was crap quality so I lost a lot of time waiting for stuff to arrive at home.

I had to remove the front USB and Audio connectors because I don’t have enough place with the radiator so I covered all holes with a black mat vinyl sticker.

I had to screw the case feet into the radiator (didn’t had to modify the radiator itself, it’s fine) because the original holes are covered by the radiator too.

I had to make a custom holder for the Res / Pump combo because there is no other way to mount it.

Two friend of mine have made a custom windows panel with a CNC machine and by siliconizing a glass window.

I’ve painted the CPU backplate and the GPU bracket in mat black so it looks better.

I’ve ordered some custom cables with the right length so I’ve got minimal cables excess in my case.

It was the first time I was bending hard tubes; it was long but was way easier than what I was thinking, I didn’t waste a single tube.

My build was heavily inspired by this one because I’ve felt in love when I saw it months ago.

I would love to get some advice or information about the way I can improve the build and what do you think about my temperatures because I find them too high. I know that I will not get the best temperature because of the size of the build but still, the guy I took inspiration over say he’s got a max temp of around 65°C for CPU ad 60°C for GPU. I easily reach 70 or 75°C with CPU and around 65°C for GPU with my build. I’ve ordered 2 x Cooler Master XtraFlo 120 Slim with way better air pressure (1.76 mm/H2O vs 0.55mm/H2O for the Raijintek ones). I don’t know if it would be better if I pull air inside the case trough the radiator, right now I’m pushing it outside. I’m bit worried if my high temperatures can damage the pump or if it can crack tubes or reservoir. The reservoir is hot after a few minutes of gaming… What do you think?

Thank you for reading my text

[Pendragon]

firstly, your build is pretty sick. hella clean and your set up is pretty good. 

http://www.overclock.net/t/1537967/build-log-nctekm1-ncase-m1-dual-radiator-watercooling

^ have you seen this? I don't even know how he got 2 240 radiators in that thing. If you really want your temps down, this would do it. But it wouldn't look as nice cause all you'd see through the window is the radiator LOL.

 

[NoobCase]

Really like the build.

 

Regarding your temps: The new fans you've ordered should help quit a bit I'd imagine. normally there would be no real difference on wether or not you have the rad fans as intake or exhaust, but in this case every little bit is needed so put the new ones as intakes. Push or pull doesn't matter, but push should be slightly better according to most tests but not by much. 

 

Is your rear fan exhaust or intake? If you put your rad fans as intake I would have it as exhaust.

[Colibri]

Thank you for your comments.

Tonight I'm gonna try to change the bottom fans in intake position and I'm gonna try to put two more fans below the case to make a push / pull configuration. It will be two more Rajintek fans because I don't have anything else right now. If temps aren't better I will order a 92mm radiator for the rear Noctua but it means doing tubing again in an even smaller area. I'm afraid of the water temp because the reservoir is hot after only 15min of gaming (I will try to use a thermometer tonight to see the water temp). People at Reddit said that I can try to change my rad for a Hardware Labs Nemesis 240 GTS but it's 4mm thicker and my new fans will be already 2mm thicker so in the end the fans will be touching the graphic card, so it doesn't seems really interesting.

[SonoDanshi]

Really well done. After experiencing the joy and terror myself watercooling in a Fractal Node 202, I appreciate all of the work and planning that goes into getting these things working.

 

I definitely think you'll see benefits switching to intake on the rad - that's how my Node 202 is and temps stay pretty decent for only having a 240mm rad.

[Colibri]

10 minutes ago, SonoDanshi said:

Really well done. After experiencing the joy and terror myself watercooling in a Fractal Node 202, I appreciate all of the work and planning that goes into getting these things working.

 

I definitely think you'll see benefits switching to intake on the rad - that's how my Node 202 is and temps stay pretty decent for only having a 240mm rad.

I've seen your Node 202, what a crazy build you've done, I love it

[SonoDanshi]

31 minutes ago, Colibri said:

I've seen your Node 202, what a crazy build you've done, I love it

Thanks for saying so. Crazy really is the right word - I got halfway through the build and decided it was impossible to complete and I had to be a lunatic for even trying it. So glad I pushed through and got it finished though.

[Colibri]

1 minute ago, SonoDanshi said:

Thanks for saying so. Crazy really is the right word - I got halfway through the build and decided it was impossible to complete and I had to be a lunatic for even trying it. So glad I pushed through and got it finished though.

Same feeling with my current build. My friends say that it's a stupid build but I'm sure it can work. I need to prove that they are wrong.

[aom]

How did you paint/dye the Noctua fan? I have two redux 80mm fans in my Air 240 and want to do something similar to match the color scheme.

 

Such a nice build, good work

[Colibri]

2 hours ago, Brinith said:

How did you paint/dye the Noctua fan? I have two redux 80mm fans in my Air 240 and want to do something similar to match the color scheme.

 

Such a nice build, good work

I've used scotch tape to protect the blades (took me around half an hour !) and just spray painted two coats of red mat. The blades were already grey.

[Colibri]

UPDATE
I've changed the two bottom fans in intake configuration and it's running way better. Max temps after 1 hours of gaming (Rise Of The Tomb Raider) are 50°C for CPU and 58°C for GPU. I didn't had enough time to try the push/pull configuration but I will try tonight. Water temp seems to be around 45-50°C but I don't have anything to know the real temp. Ambient temp is 25°C

[Notional]

I love that mouse mat, use it myself

 

I really love the NCase. Would love to make an ITX build the next upgrade. You know you can switch the power cable and the NCase badge right? (So the cable is in the middle).

Did you make the window panel yourself? Looks really good. The only thing I would love for the NCase would be a nice window panel, or a glass panel.

 

Not sure what you can do with slim fans, but maybe have them as intake, as exhausting downwards into the table could be difficult. It would also create a positive preassure, so less dust in the case, but might require a fan filter in the bottom. Just don't use them as pull.

You can also try to undervolt your cpu/gpu if you don't OC a lot.

 

 

[Colibri]

6 hours ago, Notional said:

I love that mouse mat, use it myself

 

I really love the NCase. Would love to make an ITX build the next upgrade. You know you can switch the power cable and the NCase badge right? (So the cable is in the middle).

Did you make the window panel yourself? Looks really good. The only thing I would love for the NCase would be a nice window panel, or a glass panel.

 

Not sure what you can do with slim fans, but maybe have them as intake, as exhausting downwards into the table could be difficult. It would also create a positive preassure, so less dust in the case, but might require a fan filter in the bottom. Just don't use them as pull.

You can also try to undervolt your cpu/gpu if you don't OC a lot.

 

 

I didn't know about the power cable and badge, I will try as soon as I'm back home ! Thank you.

I've played a little bit with settings yesterday and the temp are way better if I put the front of the case in the table, with the case in a vertical position, so the fans can intake way more air. I still didn't had enough to try the push pull but I will try this weekend and try to make the case feet higher so there will be more room below the case for air. My max water temp was 47°C yesterday.

 

The panel was made by a friend's CNC machine and another friend that do glazing works.

Edited August 5, 2016 by Colibri

[shenzer]

On 8/3/2016 at 12:55 PM, Colibri said:

Hi,

I’ve just finished my new build. Here is my parts list:

• NCase M1
• Corsair SF600
• Asus Z170i Pro Gaming
• Intel Core i7 6700K
• G.Skill Trident Z DDR4 2 x 16Go 3400 MHz
• nVidia GTX 1080 Founders Edition
• Samsung 950 Pro 512Go
• EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM
• EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal + Nickel
• EK-FC1080 GTX Acetal + Nickel
• EK-FC1080 GTX Backplate
• EK-CoolStream SE 240
• EK-HD PETG Tube 12/16mm
• EK-HDC Fitting
• Noctua NF-B9 Redux 1600 PWM
• 2 x Raijintek Aeolus Beta PWM

Pictures !

It was the first time I’ve done a custom loop and it was a long journey to finish the build.

I had to change my old Magicool MCP 180 Res / Pump combo because it was leaking and was crap quality so I lost a lot of time waiting for stuff to arrive at home.

I had to remove the front USB and Audio connectors because I don’t have enough place with the radiator so I covered all holes with a black mat vinyl sticker.

I had to screw the case feet into the radiator (didn’t had to modify the radiator itself, it’s fine) because the original holes are covered by the radiator too.

I had to make a custom holder for the Res / Pump combo because there is no other way to mount it.

Two friend of mine have made a custom windows panel with a CNC machine and by siliconizing a glass window.

I’ve painted the CPU backplate and the GPU bracket in mat black so it looks better.

I’ve ordered some custom cables with the right length so I’ve got minimal cables excess in my case.

It was the first time I was bending hard tubes; it was long but was way easier than what I was thinking, I didn’t waste a single tube.

My build was heavily inspired by this one because I’ve felt in love when I saw it months ago.

I would love to get some advice or information about the way I can improve the build and what do you think about my temperatures because I find them too high. I know that I will not get the best temperature because of the size of the build but still, the guy I took inspiration over say he’s got a max temp of around 65°C for CPU ad 60°C for GPU. I easily reach 70 or 75°C with CPU and around 65°C for GPU with my build. I’ve ordered 2 x Cooler Master XtraFlo 120 Slim with way better air pressure (1.76 mm/H2O vs 0.55mm/H2O for the Raijintek ones). I don’t know if it would be better if I pull air inside the case trough the radiator, right now I’m pushing it outside. I’m bit worried if my high temperatures can damage the pump or if it can crack tubes or reservoir. The reservoir is hot after a few minutes of gaming… What do you think?

Thank you for reading my text

Ok, I'm an year late or so. But which monitor is that ?

And whats temps u got in that build ?

[Colibri]

Predator Z35 2560x1080

Maximum temp for both CPU and GPU is around 60°C, often between 50-55°C