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I got a corsair 350d liquid build. I'm using a email bay res. and it dosnt look great. A guy on the forum sagested that I just use a t fitting and not do a res. it sounds like a good idea, but I was just wondering if there were any cons I should know about before I remove the res? Thanks in advance for ur input. :)

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Filling is gunna be a pain without a res, there's also a higher risk of the pump running dry.

Me: Yeah I just really can't get my H220 working again, I've tried everything that was suggested in the forum.

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you can;but if the pump gets dry it will break; also there is a fact that you have to take on account

 

pumps move water due to a preassure difference; if you push watter too quick or it is hot that difference of pressure makes that the water just before the pump is at a lower pressure than average and as everyone knows less preassure= boiling at lower temp which can cause a phenomenon called cavitation (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation) which can allso break your pump

 

so let the res stay an everything will be nice hehe

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pumps move water due to a preassure difference; if you push watter too quick or it is hot that difference of pressure makes that the water just before the pump is at a lower pressure than average and as everyone knows less preassure= boiling at lower temp which can cause a phenomenon called cavitation (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation) which can allso break your pump

With the Laing pumps the problem causing the damage is not usually cavitation though, from

what I've read what ruins the pump is it running dry/non-lubricated (haven't tested this

myself though, for obvious reasons ;)).

As for running a loop without a res, sure it's possible (maybe use a T-line?), but as

mentioned filling and bleeding it will probably be quite a bit more arduous unless you

have an absolutely genius idea about how to solve that problem.

You could of course temporarily connect a res via quick disconnects for filling and

bleeding the loop and then take it out once the loop is properly bled, but I'm not

sure if that's really a very pragmatic solution. It should work though.

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With the Laing pumps the problem causing the damage is not usually cavitation though

 

A MCP655 pump from swiftech can provide 4meter of water of pressure wich are 0.38 atm and water at 0.62 atms  boils more or less at 60ºC so, i think u can be right on that point

 

but notice that if the pump was just slightly more powerfull water could boil cuz of the preassure diminishing (cavitation) and destroy your pump

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I dont understand why people saying the pump could run dry.

 

Add a T fitting above the pump with another line connected to a fill port. Done.

because science brO! what about if this dude lives in a high place? and what about if its 35ºc (it's standar temperature in my country for summer) pump will break for sure, it's physics

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A MCP655 pump from swiftech can provide 4meter of water of pressure wich are 0.38 atm and water at 0.62 atms  boils more or less at 60ºC so, i think u can be right on that point

To be honest, I'm no expert on pumps, though I have had one semester of fluid dynamics.

My understanding of the situation is however that those 0.38 atm would be in addition

to the already existing ~1.0 atm which you usually have at ground level.

So, you have 1 atm "normal" environmental conditions, and the pump creates a pressure

difference of 0.38 atm between its inlet and outlet, which means you have 1.0 atm and

1.38 atm at the pump's ends, respectively.

Admittedly I am a bit rusty though, I might have to look this up again. ;)

Regardless, let's just make sure our pumps are sufficiently supplied with fluid before

we turn them on :D

EDIT:

I dont understand why people saying the pump could run dry.

 

Add a T fitting above the pump with another line connected to a fill port. Done.

If you do your T line correctly it shouldn't be a problem IMO.

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To be honest, I'm no expert on pumps, though I have had one semester of fluid dynamics.

My understanding of the situation is however that those 0.38 atm would be in addition

to the already existing ~1.0 atm which you usually have at ground level.

So, you have 1 atm "normal" environmental conditions, and the pump creates a pressure

difference of 0.38 atm between its inlet and outlet, which means you have 1.0 atm and

1.38 atm at the pump's ends, respectively.

Admittedly I am a bit rusty though, I might have to look this up again. ;)

Regardless, let's just make sure our pumps are sufficiently supplied with fluid before

we turn them on ;D

EDIT:

If you do your T line correctly it shouldn't be a problem IMO.

you are quite breaking the second low of thermodimanics man, if the preassure increases after the pump has to decrease somewhere i also studied that

 

im not an expert on swiftech pumps i just checked the specs hehe

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you are quite breaking the second low of thermodimanics man, if the preassure increases after the pump has to decrease somewhere i also studied that

Uh oh, I've broken physics. :lol:

Seriously though, the pressure drop would be over the loop components afaik,

would it not? Example: Pressure at pump outlet: 1.38 atm. Water flows through

a CPU block and through a GPU block with a pressure drop of 0.24 atm and 0.14 atm,

respectively, which gets you back to 1.0 atm at the pump's inlet. Obiously all

those pressure differentials are flow rate specific.

If I'm completely off I'd be happy to have my fluid dynamics refreshed though. :D

Note: Maybe not in this thread though, might be a bit too off-topic.

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Uh oh, I've broken physics. :lol:

Seriously though, the pressure drop would be over the loop components afaik,

would it not? Example: Pressure at pump outlet: 1.38 atm. Water flows through

a CPU block and through a GPU block with a pressure drop of 0.24 atm and 0.14 atm,

respectively, which gets you back to 1.0 atm at the pump's inlet. Obiously all

those pressure differentials are flow rate specific.

If I'm completely off I'd be happy to have my fluid dynamics refreshed though. :D

Note: Maybe not in this thread though, might be a bit too off-topic.

extreme facepalm over 9000 i send you a PM

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Wanna know something funny? I had the dual d5s in my rig running dry for about one minute until I realized that they dont get any water xD. Did not break though. Just make sure the Pumps get fluid as much as possible.

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To be honest, I'm no expert on pumps, though I have had one semester of fluid dynamics.

My understanding of the situation is however that those 0.38 atm would be in addition

to the already existing ~1.0 atm which you usually have at ground level.

So, you have 1 atm "normal" environmental conditions, and the pump creates a pressure

difference of 0.38 atm between its inlet and outlet, which means you have 1.0 atm and

1.38 atm at the pump's ends, respectively.

Admittedly I am a bit rusty though, I might have to look this up again. ;)

Regardless, let's just make sure our pumps are sufficiently supplied with fluid before

we turn them on :D

EDIT:

If you do your T line correctly it shouldn't be a problem IMO.

Ugh science :(

<p>Wires Suck :angry:
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What about adding a very small reservoir between the front rad and the PSU? Or isn't there

enough space with having the PSU cables in as well?

EDIT:

Ugh science :(

Hey, science is awesome! :D

Although I will admit it's not for everyone.

Anyway...

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EDIT: SORRY, I failed! Double post :(

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What about adding a very small reservoir between the front rad and the PSU? Or isn't there

enough space with having the PSU cables in as well?

EDIT:

Hey, science is awesome! :D

Although I will admit it's not for everyone.

Anyway...

 

 

a res below the pump that's ok?

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Maybe get a small res just for filling and to amke it a bit safer? I don't know I have never not made a water cooled PC without a res in it... You could get a small T-virus and put a LED in it to go with a lighter white cooling to make it look nice maybe?

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  • 3 weeks later...

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