Water Temperature Sensors?

[Grrizz]

Hi even if my flow rate had dropped by half. if the input and output temperature of the radiator was the same wouldn't that mean that the radiator has effectively done nothing (had no energy transfer) that would mean the radiator has reached its maximum thermal dissipation and allowing warm water to keep traveling through the loop? Plus I know for a fact that a restriction causes pressure increase and a velocity decrease. and coming from a restriction to a lesser restriction or no restriction causes a pressure decrease and a velocity increase.

If your flow rate dropped you would expect to see a increase in the difference between your radiators input and output temperature, if your flow is still adequate the change will be very minor but if it got too slow you would start to see large deltas, if you see this either you could benefit from a stronger pump or something is clogging the circuit.

The heat will still be dissipated when there is only a minor change on your radiators input and output temperatures because the water should never reach room temperature, your core will always be hotter than your water and your water will always be hotter then ambient allowing heat to flow at each point. The temperature change is minor because the water is passing through the components quickly so you end up with a small change on a large volume over time resulting in a large amount of heat being dissipated (or absorbed in the case of water blocks).

 

 

Its not the melting point that I am concerned about, but a different point. I can't find where I read, but I read that when acrylic is at around 60C it will slowly creep and deform overtime if there is any load. I have the XSPC D5 Pump Res top combo, and the pump is mounted on the side of the reservoir. I've also read how some people with the same exact reservoir have had leaks after long periods of time with high temps. I don't know how concerned I should be, but I don't want to take any chances of anything leaking in my case.

Ahhh that'll be the thermal expansion of the acrylic with temperature cycling resulting in thermal stressing, I didn't think of that, I'm not sure what is considered safe for that sorry. If your components don't go over 60c you don't need to worry about your reservoir getting to 60c as the water will always be a lot cooler then your components however I would expect it has more to do with the range of temperatures your reservoir encounters i.e. hottest to coldest (likely when the systems off at night), how often and quickly it cycles through those temperature changes will also have an affect on the wear.

Using plastic barbs on the acrylic will help reduce the chances of cracking where thermal expansion of two materials with different thermal co-efficients are concerned but if the cracking is caused by internal stressing the only thing you can do is limit the range of temperatures and rate of change in temperature.

Sorry I couldn't give you a more concise solution and after saying all that I would consider getting the temperature probe for the "cool" factor any way so you can tell your friends what your water temperature is It might also help satisfy a curious mind lol. In my loops with ambient temperatures in the high teens/low 20c's my water is usually in the low 30c's cooling CPU and GPU... as a very general guide, that number can change a fair bit depending on your loop but I think in most well balanced loops the water will be in the 30-40c range with ~20c ambient, if you had super low speed fans that didn't ramp up under load and/or too small of a radiator you might go above that and if you had a large radiator and/or high speed/pressure fans you might get into the mid to high 20c's (talking under load of course).

[natemina]

On 7/31/2014 at 3:01 AM, G9x001 said:

 

The water will gain temp as it passes by a water block. and will loose heat as it passes through a radiator it will not be consistent throughout the loop. but you could place a temperature sensor at vital parts of the loop if required. e.g. just after a cpu block or just after a gpu block.   

 

4

The faster your pump flows, the more consistent your water temp throughout your loop will be, But even with an average pump, I doubt the Temp difference throughout the loop will differ by more than a few Deg C. Im just finished designs on a system that I can set to whatever temp I want, if I want it 33F I can do it, I wouldent because of condensation but I could set it to 50F, which is super cold, and no matter how hot it gets out there, or however much heat the CPU/GPU dump. I can't believe my design does not exist already, considering the parts I'm using total less than 160USD.

[MaratM]

To get water temp to 60c you need 1!!! 120 mm rad to cool both you cpu and gpu.

There are 3 things effecting you cooling capabilities:

1) delta T - the higher delta = the rad is more efficient

2) fan speed (if it is a high static pressure fan) higher fan speed increases rads efficiency

3) overall rad space and thickness - more is better

using 2 of them on the built (fixed) loop you can controll the noise level of you system by increasing delta T and decreasing fan speed.

The coolant in my loop at idle runs at 36c with ambient 26-27c and fan speed at 450rpm under load it reaches 41-42c but my fans run at under 1000rpm if I increase  fan speed at max 1500rpm all the time the coolant reaches 32c at idle and 38 at load.

There are few motherboards which have an external temp sensor input and few new ones can actually use it to control the speed of your fan or pump.

The best fan controllers with external temp sensor are made by aquacomputer: aquaero (a real stand alone unit with a ton of features) and poweradjust (a much smaller and simple solution) or you can use an digital display such as http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-lcd-temperature-sensor-v2-green.html it does not need any usb connector, just a molex or sata power.

[AngryBeaver]

On 7/31/2014 at 9:46 PM, G9x001 said:

 

Hi just wanted you to know I just tested my loop with my Ryobi heat gun it has a accuracy of +- 1.5% and when I test the temperature before a block in my system the temp is lower on the inlet then on the out. the heat has to be transferred to the water in the block there it increases the water temp. and the water temp is not stable throughout the loop. here are my results.

all temps are running furmark and prime95 together for 25 minutes before testing.

 

my system is an r9 290x 1080 Ghz/1380Mhz clock with ek full block

i7 950 @ 4.22Ghz thermal take block

I have a thermal take big water with a 360mm koolance rad mounted outside the case on a koolance mounting bracket.  

GPU   inlet 23.0  outlet 31.3

to 360mm rad inlet temp 38.0 outlet 16.8 into

CPU   inlet 18.3  outlet 24.0

into 120mm rad Inlet 22.3 outlet 17.9

room temp taken from wall 13.2

all temps are in degrees Celsius.

 

 

As someone who has run multiple temp probes in prior builds I can tell you that unless you have completely inadequate flow... that the temps will vary only 1-2 c throughout the loop.. if they even vary that much.

 

This is why they tell you loop order doesn't matter as long as your res feeds your pump. Now if you are running a incredibly weak pump then yes... it water flows is like .25 gpm then the water is sitting in a area long enough that it will become much hotter, but the trade off is it will also have more time to cool off in your radiators.

 

This is one of the few example where this WOULD be true, but it has to do with an improper loop setup and is not a common occurrence. 

[airdeano]

@natemina please in the future, avoid recycling issues older than 60days.. thread necro from 44 months ago prolly fell onto deaf ears since you replied to someone that hasn't graced our forums since 10 months ago..