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Could you help on which 4080 super to buy plz?

dassan

Hello guys, i wanna buy 4080 super and i have 2 options:
1. GALAX GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER SG 1-Click OC (1300 USD)
2. ASUS ProArt GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER OC (1550 USD)
And between these two, there s like 250 USD difference at price (Asus one is expensive). Asus one is more durable and futureproof considering "i dont wanna change my gpu again for like 3-4 years" or it wud be ok to buy Galax one also?
And one more thing these are the prices of 4070ti super also:
1. GALAX GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER SG 1-Click OC (1030 USD)
2.ASUS TUF Gaming GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER OC (1440 USD)
4080 super worth the price difference? Which one u wud buy guys? Thx for helping:love:

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6 minutes ago, dassan said:

Asus one is more durable and futureproof considering "i dont wanna change my gpu again for like 3-4 years"

No, they both have the same CPU core so the performance will be basically identical (within 2-3%), and durability wise both have pretty decent build quality, so I wouldn't consider one better than the other. 

 

9 minutes ago, dassan said:

wud be ok to buy Galax one also?

Yes, the Galax one is 100% the better pick between these two. 

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1 hour ago, dassan said:

Hello guys, i wanna buy 4080 super and i have 2 options:
1. GALAX GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER SG 1-Click OC (1300 USD)
2. ASUS ProArt GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER OC (1550 USD)
And between these two, there s like 250 USD difference at price (Asus one is expensive). Asus one is more durable and futureproof considering "i dont wanna change my gpu again for like 3-4 years" or it wud be ok to buy Galax one also?
And one more thing these are the prices of 4070ti super also:
1. GALAX GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER SG 1-Click OC (1030 USD)
2.ASUS TUF Gaming GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER OC (1440 USD)
4080 super worth the price difference? Which one u wud buy guys? Thx for helping:love:

I would not get the Asus just because of the shitty business practices. The only way they change is when customers stop buying.

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"Asus one is more durable and futureproof"

Genuine question, where did you get this information from?

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The Asus card because Asus is better is at marketing, brainwashing, and abusing customers who return their product for defects/repairs.

 

This does not necessarily mean that you will have a better experience with any other brand.

 

A better approach is to compare the behavior of the product in normal operation. For example noise normalised GPU, VRM, memory and hotspot temps. You will have to look up YouTube videos for this detailed info and then decide if it is worth the extra money to get a card that has better behavior.

 

If looking for absolute longevity, you will want the following traits from most to least importance:

  • Lower fan RPM at the same GPU temperature (best fan longevity) because mechanical components are much more prone to failure and wear and tear. Being able to cool the GPU at low RPM also translates to less noise, less likelihood of coil whine, and better ability to cope with higher temperatures before becoming noisy. If a fan dies, the process of effecting the warranty for repairs is likely to be an unpleasant experience no matter which vendor you chose to go with.
  • Lower out of the box GPU operating temperature. Because silicon still deteriorates with high heat. If the GPU can be kept cooler in operation, it will have better frequency boost limit and behavior.
  • Lower GPU hotspot temperature. This refers to the hottest point within the GPU. Because you do not want a subcomponent to deteriorate at a faster rate. If a subcomponent in the GPU fails, it will likely render the whole chip as nonfunctional. A card design showing consistently high GPU hotspot temperature is a telltale sign that the cooler, by design, does not have good contact with the the full GPU die.
  • Lower VRM temperature. The VRM are the power delivery components on the circuit board responsible for feeding clean power to the GPU. If they run hot, it means they are either not well cooled or are closer to their operating limit (poor VRM design or component quality has lower power delivery limit) Regardless of the cause, cooler running VRM will last longer and afford greater overclocking headroom (it matters a lot, and more so if you intend to overclock)
  • Dual BIOS. The BIOS is the firmware of the device. It is stored on a physical BIOS chip. The one that is in active use is prone to corruption, so having a second chip is a failsafe. The card vendor typically sets the second BIOS tuned for silent operation. However it is pointless if the card sounds like a jet engine or has bad VRM/heatsink. Which is why this is less important.
  • Lower memory temperature. Because the memory chips also produce heat and will deteriorate. Lower temperature means they are well cooled or are of better quality. Overclocking the memory is an easy way to get a bit of extra performance, especially on a GPU class that is subject to memory bandwidth constraints. Overclocking memory puts stress on the memory chips, so you want them to be well cooled and of good quality to remain stable as long as possible.

I am not going to do the homework for you. I doubt anyone will, because they are not the one atvrisk of getting a lemon for $1000++. Good luck.

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All these prices suck a$$.

Gaming With a 4:3 CRT

System specs below

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X with a Noctua NH-U9S cooler 
Motherboard: Gigabyte B450 Aorus M (Because it was cheap)
RAM: 32GB (4 x 8GB) Corsair Vengance LPX 3200Mhz CL16
GPU: EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC Blower Card
HDD: 7200RPM TOSHIBA DT01ACA100 1TB, External HDD: 5400RPM 2TB WD My Passport
SSD: 1tb Samsung 970 evo m.2 nvme
PSU: Corsair CX650M
Displays: ViewSonic VA2012WB LCD 1680x1050p @ 75Hz
Gateway VX920 CRT: 1920x1440@65Hz, 1600x1200@75Hz, 1200x900@100Hz, 960x720@125Hz
Gateway VX900 CRT: 1920x1440@64Hz, 1600x1200@75Hz, 1200x900@100Hz, 960x720@120Hz (Can be pushed to 175Hz)
 
Keyboard: Thermaltake eSPORTS MEKA PRO with Cherry MX Red switches
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