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Help me understand, why is the Hydro K PRO 850W a C Tier?

foxbill86
By foxbill86
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Help me understand, why is the Hydro K PRO 850W a C Tier on this Website?

Hydro K PRO | Power Supplies (PSU) | FSP

I mean, FSP is a great PSU maker and I don't fully understand this "Tier C and above - required to have independent regulation on all rails and/or <5% min to max voltage regulation on all rails under extreme crossloads and high combined load; ripple on 12V rail should be below 100mV under extreme crossload and high combined load situations and up-to 100%" Can someone explain this in a layman's term? thanks in advance!

AMD Ryzen 7 5700X3D | Gigabyte B550M DS3H Rev 1.7 | Kingston Fury X 32GB DDR4 (2X16) 2666MHz | Gigabyte RX 6800 GAMING OC 16G |

Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE | 3X Rakk Maris Pro 120mm RGB Fans | Rakk Dulus Case | Gigabyte GP-P650G 650W 80+ GOLD Certified Active PFC 

Lexar NM710 M.2 1TB NVMe SSD Gen 4 | Crucial MX500 500GB 3D NAND SATA

KOORUI 24E3. 24" 1080p Gaming Monitor, 165Hz Refresh Rate, IPS Panel

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Posted
15 minutes ago, foxbill86 said:

Help me understand, why is the Hydro K PRO 850W a C Tier on this Website?

Hydro K PRO | Power Supplies (PSU) | FSP

I mean, FSP is a great PSU maker and I don't fully understand this "Tier C and above - required to have independent regulation on all rails and/or <5% min to max voltage regulation on all rails under extreme crossloads and high combined load; ripple on 12V rail should be below 100mV under extreme crossload and high combined load situations and up-to 100%" Can someone explain this in a layman's term? thanks in advance!

Because the list has arbitrary rules that the creator came up with. You can choose to agree or disagree with his list.

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So 2 things:

23 minutes ago, foxbill86 said:

why is the Hydro K PRO 850W a C Tier on this Website?

Firstly, That power supply isn't actually on the tier list. The one you see in tier C is the Hydro Pro, not the Hydro K Pro

23 minutes ago, foxbill86 said:

I don't fully understand this "Tier C and above - required to have independent regulation on all rails and/or <5% min to max voltage regulation on all rails under extreme crossloads and high combined load; ripple on 12V rail should be below 100mV under extreme crossload and high combined load situations and up-to 100%" Can someone explain this in a layman's term? thanks in advance!

Secondly, the Hydro Pro (not the Hydro K Pro) meets the requirements you mentioned which is why it is atleast tier C. The reason it isn't higher is that it apparently dosn't meet the following requirement:

Quote

Tier B and above - required to have OTP (just claimed is enough, but if it's tested and the unit did not survive - detier to LP subtier), to have OPP tested (detier to tier C if failed), be based on ACRF or ZVS primary, DC-DC secondary topology, and have APFC with full VAC input range (100-230V); voltage regulation and ripple should be in spec under 110% overload; 12V ripple below 100mV under 110% overload; should be rated for continuous operation at minimum 40°C ambient (not just 'operating conditions' but unless proven to not qualify by testing, only claimed operating conditions without continous operation remark is enough)

 

I apologise for not providing a detailed explaination of what these terms all mean (it is a bit outside of my area), but I thought much of the above was important to point out.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websites: https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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Posted

Thirdly, the tier list should be taken with a pinch of salt, it is a useful tool but it is not the be all and end all. Other details like warranty length, RMA record of brand, Capacity, Expandability ect are all of similar importance.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websites: https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

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Posted
2 hours ago, will0hlep said:

Thirdly, the tier list should be taken with a pinch of salt, it is a useful tool but it is not the be all and end all. Other details like warranty length, RMA record of brand, Capacity, Expandability ect are all of similar importance.

Its also a great tool to have a quick look at which NOT to pick 😛.

 

Thats what I mostly use it for anything below c tier is an avoid and I will also follow research done by myself and personal experience since I do hardware repair still. Which is why I sometimes react harshly to psu's that are my nemesis that must be destroyed 😛

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it's Tier C speculative. The input is 230v only and double forward topology on the primary. With that it can never be better than Tier C.

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