14900kf Delidding and direct die AIO. Thoughts?

[HayuPhukmiWife]

Hey folk,

 

I'm considering an alternate cooling solution for the synthetic sun I have plugged into my mobo.

 

I'm currently running a Fractal Prisma+ 360 AIO. And it's great. After the initial solar flare it brings temps down. Keeps the cpu at a max of +/-90 with it mostly sitting around 50-60 when gaming. The issue I'm trying to tame is the initial heat blast and the individual core throttling. 

 

I have been reading up on the Lian Li Galahad II 360 LCD AIO. They have some reviews and claim to keep the cores from throttling. However, in recent reading, I've seen some Direct Die AIOs (I'm just not into custom loop yet)

 

I'm sure loads of you cats have done Delidding, what do you guys think of these options?

 

The Lian Li is forking expensive. Where the EK-Nucleus AIO CR360 Direct Die D-RGB is not. However the Delidding is required.

 

I know I'll get significantly lower with the delis, but I'm not the work required is up my alley - although they make the cutting frames now and it looks fairly simple.

 

I'm already enforcing Intel's voltage limits to tame the cpu, and not running any overclock. I'm not really into much more than a stock turbo OC, but I want to never see a red number on hwinfo. 

 

Thoughts? Discussions?

[Shimejii]

Pretty much never worth it due to the cost of replacing the CPU if you do it wrong. Just voltage tune and be good.

Most of the claims by AIO companies just want you to buy their cooler. Unless they are using a unique pump/rad, the only real difference is that their fans probably go MUCH faster but also becomes much louder.  So usually that is your trade off.

 

Delidding can be helpful, but you should really be experienced before attempting it with your top of the line CPU.

[jaslion]

Not worth it the die is now soldered to the ih so direct die cooling doesnt do a whole lot extra also WAY easier to fuck up due to it being solderd.

 

Lian li is just doin marketing.

 

The actual best aio is the arctic liquid freezer 360 and 420 (they are within 2c of eachother) have been top of the charts for years now.

 

Your fractal is a GOOD aio great even but the 13900k is just a terrible cpu for heatload.

 

What you should do is undervolt and call it good. Funny thing is that when you undervolt the 13900k tends to work BETTER because it generates a lot less heat thus allowing itself to run full speed permanently.

 

So basically tldr

 

Lian li is marketingbulshitting the best aios  on the market are by arctic. Undervolt your 13(4)900k and call it good. Intel just made a terribly optimized chip

[leclod]

Did you replace the Intel ILM with a contact frame ?

Edited February 3 by leclod

[HayuPhukmiWife]

24 minutes ago, leclod said:

Did you replace the Intel ILM with a contact frame ?

Have a contact frame sitting at my desk  just haven't put it on yet.

[HayuPhukmiWife]

27 minutes ago, jaslion said:

Not worth it the die is now soldered to the ih so direct die cooling doesnt do a whole lot extra also WAY easier to fuck up due to it being solderd.

 

Lian li is just doin marketing.

 

The actual best aio is the arctic liquid freezer 360 and 420 (they are within 2c of eachother) have been top of the charts for years now.

 

Your fractal is a GOOD aio great even but the 13900k is just a terrible cpu for heatload.

 

What you should do is undervolt and call it good. Funny thing is that when you undervolt the 13900k tends to work BETTER because it generates a lot less heat thus allowing itself to run full speed permanently.

 

So basically tldr

 

Lian li is marketingbulshitting the best aios  on the market are by arctic. Undervolt your 13(4)900k and call it good. Intel just made a terribly optimized chip

Yeah it's undervolted already. And I agree . It works better. I was having latency issues without the undervolt, likely due to core throttling. Now she runs nice. But I just wanted to push a better clock speed. I get 6ghz max but average of 4.8 with the undervolt. With the board voltages and synthetic sun chip hitting close to 100 it hits 6.2 with a 5.2 avg. But the temps and better stability have me preferring to just ignore speed and let it run where it works better.... 

 

This was a thought for a workaround. That's why I asked you guys if you thought the marketing was gibberish or not

 

https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/cooling/lian-li-galahad-ii-360-lcd-aio-cooler-review

[RONOTHAN##]

2 minutes ago, HayuPhukmiWife said:

Have a contact frame sitting at my desk  just haven't put it on yet.

Do that before even thinking about direct die, that usually drops temps by ~5c, and since your goal is just just prevent it from hitting 100 that should be enough. 

[leclod]

25 minutes ago, HayuPhukmiWife said:

Have a contact frame sitting at my desk  just haven't put it on yet.

Which one, TG or TR ?

(With TR, tighten the screws rather not enough than too much)

[HayuPhukmiWife]

7 minutes ago, leclod said:

Which one, TG or TR ?

(With TR, tighten the screws rather not enough than too much)

TR. I was gonna look up the tq spec. But I don't even have something that would read that low of a tq. So I was just gonna go wrist tight. You suggest so they can basically just be snug? Rather than tight?

[leclod]

13 minutes ago, HayuPhukmiWife said:

TR. I was gonna look up the tq spec. But I don't even have something that would read that low of a tq. So I was just gonna go wrist tight. You suggest so they can basically just be snug? Rather than tight?

My point is :

my first time was no worries, I mounted snug as supposed, with minimal tension. I got a speaker on my mb. I believe I got only single short beeps afterwards which is normal.

But I couldn't leave it alone so :

my second time did worry me, I mounted snug as supposed, again. I believe I got only single long beeps afterwards which isn't normal anymore. But otherwise no problem. There's a black foam between frame and mb, I believe it gets crushed after being mounted once resulting in increased tension the second time.

So now, I unscrewed all screws 1/4 turn at the end and :

I get single short or long beeps now, I never know. But otherwise no problem.

 

(Edit : I recommend having a speaker, bought mine cheap on Aliexpress, and put some tape on it otherwise it's too loud)

Edited February 3 by leclod

[HayuPhukmiWife]

3 hours ago, RONOTHAN## said:

Do that before even thinking about direct die, that usually drops temps by ~5c, and since your goal is just just prevent it from hitting 100 that should be enough. 

I heard 5 degrees IF suffering from bending. And negligible if not. I mainly see cores 5 and 7 sit higher.  Not sure where they PHYSICALLY sit in the processor to know if they're like top and bottom middle like a phone keypad or something. But I plan on changing out a loud fan with a new infinity reverse blade fan (exciting! Lol) and reworking my argb headers to f*!k with the aura creator software so I plan on swapping it in then. If for no better reason than refreshing thermal paste and checking my contact. It would be nice if I could get it to higher voltage but from everything I read I don't feel that it'll stop the throttling....