help Help needed with persisting DRAM error, components keep dying (MB, RAM, CPU) PSU replaced, 4 MB, 2 CPU and RAM

[Lobster84]

Hello,

 

I registered here to ask for help with a problem I have for the last 5 to 6 months.

 

Quick history

I bought on August 25th 2023 an upgrade kit for my pc.

New components:

- Ryzen 9 7900X

- Arctic Freezer A13 X (cpu cooler)

- Corsair Vengeance DDR5 32G (2x16G)

- Gigabyte B650 GAMING X AX

- M.2 disk 2TB

- SSD disk 1TB

 

Re-used components:

- SSD 1TB

- PSU Corsair 850W Gold (exact model I do not know atm)

- GPU: Gigabyte RTX 2070 Super

- Case + fans

 

Extra info:

Bios - latest version, not sure about the number but I checked when I got the pc back.

Windows 11 PRO 64 bit

 

When everything was assembled I got a DRAM error and no video output.

I contacted the shop, did some testing like re-seating RAM, CPU, QFlash Bios but nothing worked.

Brought the system to the shop, MB was defective and replaced.

Got my system back, started it and it worked so far. Tried to install Windows 11 but got DRAM errors while installing the OS. It happened every time it needed a restart.

I kept restarting and got Windows installed but I could not use the pc, it just gave me black screens and DRAM errors.

I called the shop again, discussed it, brought the system back and they found the MB defective (again) and this time the CPU was defective too. They replaced both and I got my system back.

This time the pc was starting normally. I installed some software and ran updates. With the Windows updates it needed to restart the system and it gave me a DRAM again and no video output.

But when forcing a shut down and restarting the system, it started normally to Windows and continued the updates. The DRAM kept happening every time the pc needed a restart.

I contacted the shop and discussed it was maybe a software issue. I reinstalled Windows and all software again. Did some updates and the problem seemed fixed.

About two weeks later I started to get random shutdowns and failing video driver issues. Programs or games shutting down with weird issues.

Event viewer showed me tons of errors for video drivers and access violations. A week after that it was impossible to do anything. Starting a browser or opening folders would randomly shut down the computer.

I contacted the shop again and got a list of software they tested systems with.

I tested my pc with MEMTEST86+, OCCT, BurnInTest, Prime95, CrystalDisk, HDTune and Heaven. I used monitoring software like HWMonitor too.

I got a ton of errors in all programs, some did shut down the pc.

So, I contacted the shop again and I brought the pc back in, including an email with my test results.

This time, they declared the MB and RAM defective and replaced them (this is the fourth MB). They also replaced my PSU just to be sure. They did a 48 hour extensive test round with a person monitoring everything.
I got my system back again and was thankful when I plugged everything in and it worked like a dream.

I did some tests with BurnIntest and OCCT and got no errors. Did a couple manual restarts and after a Windows update and I didn't get DRAM errors. I was happy.

 

This brings us to my problem now

I got my pc back on December 6th. The shop did not charge me for any fixes and replacement parts, not even the psu.

I worked every day on the computer. I use software like the common Office products. Also Adobe products as Photoshop, Illustrator and InDesign. I used Unreal Engine 5.3 and I played some games.

December 24th I started the computer and got a black screen and a DRAM error. The only thing I noticed was a click sound from the PSU, like a switch was flicked. Right after the DRAM light came on.

I looked into this and people say it could be a relay and a normal sound, but I never heard it before. The pc case is right next to me on a cabinet, like 30 - 40 cm away from me. A click would be noticeable.

I also found mentions about a shortage and/or safety feature within the PSU.

 

The last thing I did on December 23th was play Fallout 4 before going to bed. During the day I did some design work in Photoshop and worked on a document in Word.

The only crash I got, between December 6th and 24th was when playing Fallout 4. Video driver crashed because of a setting that was set to low (Weapon Debris) which, apparently RTX cards can't handle. I turned it off and the game worked but had a sync issue with sound. Which had something to do with the FPS I got (144). Fallout 4 doesn't have an option to limit the fps, there is no v-sync either. I capped the fps to 120 in Nvidia Control Panel for Fallout 4 specific. After that the game ran fine. I played for about 1 - 1,5 hours. Then closed the game and other programs that were open (browser, steam etc) and turned off the pc. Nothing weird happened that could hint towards an malfunctioning system.

 

My system is connected through a surge protected outlet. I don't have an UPS (yet).

 

- Could this be caused by peripherals?

I got two 32" monitors (displayport) - LG

I have a wired mouse (USB) - Razer Basilisk V3

A wired keyboard (USB) - Corsair K55 RGB (RGB = off)

A 2.1 speakerset (USB powered) - Creative Pebble 2.1 plus

A XBOX 360 controller (Wired since wireless runs out of power)

A headset wireless (USB receiver) - HyperX Cloud Flight

 

What comes to mind as for possible reasons that cause this? I am open to anything as long as it is serious.

This problem is taking way to long, about 5 to 6 months now. I need the system to continue my work since my laptop is not powerful enough to do everything.

I need more input to discuss with the shop or to fix after my system runs again.

 

I appreciate your help. Thanks in advance

[CommanderAlex]

2 minutes ago, Lobster84 said:

Brought the system to the shop, MB was defective and replaced.

 

3 minutes ago, Lobster84 said:

I called the shop again, discussed it, brought the system back and the found the MB defective (again) and this time the CPU was defective too. The replaced both and I got my system back.

 

3 minutes ago, Lobster84 said:

About two weeks later I started to get random shutdowns and failing video driver issues. Programs or games shutting down with weird issues.

Power instability issues and components dying points to the power supply. 

 

4 minutes ago, Lobster84 said:

- PSU Corsair 850W Gold (exact model I do not know atm)

How old is the power supply? 

[Lobster84]

2 minutes ago, CommanderAlex said:

 

 

Power instability issues and components dying points to the power supply. 

 

How old is the power supply? 

They replaced the PSU for a new one. I looked up the debit nota and it says: Corsair RM850x (2021) - EPS12V 2.92 - 80 PLUS Gold - 850 Wat

Model 2021, but ordered as new. I know since I had to wait for this one to get to the shop.

[CommanderAlex]

5 minutes ago, Lobster84 said:

They replaced the PSU for a new one. I looked up the debit nota and it says: Corsair RM850x (2021) - EPS12V 2.92 - 80 PLUS Gold - 850 Wat

Model 2021, but ordered as new. I know since I had to wait for this one to get to the shop.

Do you live in an area with dirty power?? Have you tried using another power outlet? It must be a power issue then coming into the power supply for issues like this to occur and the power supply can only handle so much. 

 

That's a good PSU unit so I can't see it being the fault of the PSU alone, but outside sources. 

[Lobster84]

Just now, CommanderAlex said:

Do you live in an area with dirty power?? Have you tried using another power outlet? It must be a power issue then coming into the power supply for issues like this to occur and the power supply can only handle so much. 

 

That's a good PSU unit so I can't see it being the fault of the PSU alone, but outside sources. 

That was my thought too. I am from the Netherlands, not sure what you mean with "dirty power" tho.
The previous psu was the same but a 2018 model. Bought it together with the GPU back then.

I always connect my pc through a extended outlet that has surge protection. Only the monitors and the system itself is connected. The monitors are fine.
At this moment I have my laptop connected too, no issues. The outlet is new too, bought it in September.
I also tried a new cable for the psu.

Do you know if there is a way to test for power surges, and do you know if a power surge could affect only the system and not the monitors?

 

[Lobster84]

9 minutes ago, CommanderAlex said:

Do you live in an area with dirty power?? Have you tried using another power outlet? It must be a power issue then coming into the power supply for issues like this to occur and the power supply can only handle so much. 

 

That's a good PSU unit so I can't see it being the fault of the PSU alone, but outside sources. 

Looked up what dirty power is. I don't think that is the case in the Netherlands. Although our power grid is full as to there is a waiting list for companies and buildings to get on the power grid

[CommanderAlex]

5 minutes ago, Lobster84 said:

That was my thought too. I am from the Netherlands, not sure what you mean with "dirty power" tho.
The previous psu was the same but a 2018 model. Bought it together with the GPU back then.

I always connect my pc through a extended outlet that has surge protection. Only the monitors and the system itself is connected. The monitors are fine.
At this moment I have my laptop connected too, no issues. The outlet is new too, bought it in September.
I also tried a new cable for the psu.

Do you know if there is a way to test for power surges, and do you know if a power surge could affect only the system and not the monitors?

 

Dirty power meaning voltage spikes/surges which can affect electronics ability to use the power as it'll have to correct for the abnormalities. 

Just now, Lobster84 said:

Looked up what dirty power is. I don't think that is the case in the Netherlands. Although our power grid is full as to there is a waiting list for companies and buildings to get on the power grid

Yeah you never know how the power supply coming in is unless you test it or others have reported problems. 

 

 

The only way I could think of would be to use a voltmeter but it may not be that accurate/sensitive to the surge, but most likely an oscilloscope will be able to test that, however I'm not qualified enough to know with that. 

 

Just a thought, is there anything conductive on the case that may be coming in contact with the motherboard? Maybe another standoff where it shouldn't be, for example. 

[Lobster84]

10 minutes ago, CommanderAlex said:

Dirty power meaning voltage spikes/surges which can affect electronics ability to use the power as it'll have to correct for the abnormalities. 

Yeah you never know how the power supply coming in is unless you test it or others have reported problems. 

 

 

The only way I could think of would be to use a voltmeter but it may not be that accurate/sensitive to the surge, but most likely an oscilloscope will be able to test that, however I'm not qualified enough to know with that. 

 

Just a thought, is there anything conductive on the case that may be coming in contact with the motherboard? Maybe another standoff where it shouldn't be, for example. 

I do have a voltmeter but not an oscilloscope haha. I try to look up if there are any reports of power surges or mentions about dirty power but so far I can't find anything. There is another computer in the house for personal use and a bit older then the one I mentioned in the topic. That one has no issues and is connected to the same net in the house. We got solar panels on our roof in November. Because of that we had our fuse box changed too. But I guess if there would be a case of dirty power, like surges, we would notice in other appliances too. But maybe I am wrong here.

 

I guess changing back to the previous extended outlet would be an option, since that one ran my previous system for a couple of years. I changed it because the wire was a bit on the short end to connect it properly.

For another possible conductive on the case, there is none. The case itself is on a wooded cabinet with free space around it. Nothing on top or under it.
I did think about maybe something inside the case that could do this? Not sure tho.

I also looked into the peripherals and found that they could cause damage but it is very unlikely.

[CommanderAlex]

10 minutes ago, Lobster84 said:

I do have a voltmeter but not an oscilloscope haha. I try to look up if there are any reports of power surges or mentions about dirty power but so far I can't find anything. There is another computer in the house for personal use and a bit older then the one I mentioned in the topic. That one has no issues and is connected to the same net in the house. We got solar panels on our roof in November. Because of that we had our fuse box changed too. But I guess if there would be a case of dirty power, like surges, we would notice in other appliances too. But maybe I am wrong here.

 

I guess changing back to the previous extended outlet would be an option, since that one ran my previous system for a couple of years. I changed it because the wire was a bit on the short end to connect it properly.

For another possible conductive on the case, there is none. The case itself is on a wooded cabinet with free space around it. Nothing on top or under it.
I did think about maybe something inside the case that could do this? Not sure tho.

I also looked into the peripherals and found that they could cause damage but it is very unlikely.

I do agree with you on that that you should see issues with other appliances in the house and not just this one PC. 

 

Is it particularly dry (humidity) in the house? Maybe some static electricity buildup and discharge could be happening but is unlikely. 

 

I could definitely see peripherals causing issues, especially older ones. 

[Lobster84]

14 minutes ago, CommanderAlex said:

I do agree with you on that that you should see issues with other appliances in the house and not just this one PC. 

 

Is it particularly dry (humidity) in the house? Maybe some static electricity buildup and discharge could be happening but is unlikely. 

 

I could definitely see peripherals causing issues, especially older ones. 

Well, I will check other appliances just to be completely sure. Can't hurt to do a double check. I will replace the outlet too.

The room the pc is located in, is not particularly dry in my opinion. I will look into that. The window is sometimes open to let fresh air come in. Guess the humidity should go up too.

Peripherals are not that old in my opinion. The oldest are the keyboard and headset, which are 5+ years old. But again, they are now connected to my laptop and work fine. During the last months I have connected them to my laptop over and over without issues.
I do have to say that sometimes my mouse stays lit when the pc is turned off. It has rgb lights, and one color stays on. That happened couple days ago too. I usually unplug it and plug it in again. I never thought anything of it, but could that be an indication that there is something wrong?

[CommanderAlex]

1 minute ago, Lobster84 said:

Well, I will check other appliances just to be completely sure. Can't hurt to do a double check. I will replace the outlet too.

The room the pc is located in, is not particularly dry in my opinion. I will look into that. The window is sometimes open to let fresh air come in. Guess the humidity should go up too.

Peripherals are not that old in my opinion. The oldest are the keyboard and headset, which are 5+ years old. But again, they are connected to my laptop and work fine.
I do have to say that sometimes my mouse stays lit when the pc is turned off. It has rgb lights, and one color stays on. That happened couple days ago too. I usually unplug it and plug it in again. I never thought anything of it, but could that be an indication that there is something wrong?

For the mouse staying lit when the PC is off, I have the same issue as well and I believe it's a setting in BIOS allowing power to still be sent to USB devices when turned off. 

[Lobster84]

Just now, CommanderAlex said:

For the mouse staying lit when the PC is off, I have the same issue as well and I believe it's a setting in BIOS allowing power to still be sent to USB devices when turned off. 

Ah, I could check into that when the pc is working again. Thank you.

So far, I have some ideas of what to check and do. Tomorrow I will call the shop to discuss the issue and see if they can fix it.
CommanderAlex, thank you for your help so far. I will post an update if anything comes up that could be of importance to the topic.
I will pick this up tomorrow since it is almost 4 am for me.

[CommanderAlex]

23 minutes ago, Lobster84 said:

Ah, I could check into that when the pc is working again. Thank you.

So far, I have some ideas of what to check and do. Tomorrow I will call the shop to discuss the issue and see if they can fix it.
CommanderAlex, thank you for your help so far. I will post an update if anything comes up that could be of importance to the topic.
I will pick this up tomorrow since it is almost 4 am for me.

Looking into it, it may be related to a power setting to charge your phone when your computer is turned off. Then they also say it could be related to the power states for the motherboard. 

 

Yeah man no problem!! Get some sleep!!!!!

[problemsolver]

7 hours ago, Lobster84 said:

December 24th I started the computer and got a black screen and a DRAM error. The only thing I noticed was a click sound from the PSU, like a switch was flicked. Right after the DRAM light came on.

I looked into this and people say it could be a relay and a normal sound, but I never heard it before. The pc case is right next to me on a cabinet, like 30 - 40 cm away from me. A click would be noticeable.

I also found mentions about a shortage and/or safety feature within the PSU.

This sounds like the PSU protection was tripped. The click you heard was (most likely) the internal PSU relay. I don't have that specific PSU though, so someone who has one of those may know how it behaves.

 

I would be suspect of the GPU. I don't know if the computer shop has equipment to thoroughly test the GPU for abnormal power issues, but that seems to be the only thing left that could really cause the issues you're mentioning. Do the GPU power leds indicate any issue?

[Lobster84]

6 hours ago, CommanderAlex said:

Looking into it, it may be related to a power setting to charge your phone when your computer is turned off. Then they also say it could be related to the power states for the motherboard. 

 

Yeah man no problem!! Get some sleep!!!!!

Would the phone charging setting be in the bios? I charge my phone with it's own adapter in another outlet. If I can turn that setting off, that would be great.

 

About the power states of the motherboard, do you mean if it goes to sleep or turned off etc?
I never put my system to sleep manually. It is either on or completely off, for me at least. Is it possible that the motherboard would have a different power state when I shut down the system?

 

I do have to say that the settings in Windows for power saving have been scaled up to prevent the system to go to sleep during rendering work. I bumped the time limit up to several hours, instead of the standard time (it is 20 minutes I believe).

I will discuss this with the shop. I am going to call them and see what they say.

[Lobster84]

13 minutes ago, problemsolver said:

This sounds like the PSU protection was tripped. The click you heard was (most likely) the internal PSU relay. I don't have that specific PSU though, so someone who has one of those may know how it behaves.

 

I would be suspect of the GPU. I don't know if the computer shop has equipment to thoroughly test the GPU for abnormal power issues, but that seems to be the only thing left that could really cause the issues you're mentioning. Do the GPU power leds indicate any issue?

I have read about the PSU protection. The previous model was the same one. This PSU is a 2021 model and they ordered it for my system. It is new, so couple weeks old now.

This is the first time I heard a click from a PSU and I have been working with computers for years. Never had a PSU fail in my own systems. I did change out faulty ones for others, but again, I never heard the click or any noise. That is why it is the only weird thing, for me, that happened along the DRAM error.

 

The GPU has been tested. I have discussed this with the shop before and they said it is most unlikely the GPU causing problems. They, and I, tested the GPU with Heaven on different settings. I have tested before with BurnInTest, when I did the complete 3 min test I got RAM and VRAM errors. After the shop changed out the motherboard, RAM and PSU, BurnInTest didn't show those errors, it ran a clean test. I tested VRAM, 3D Adaptive and 3D standard with OCCT and got errors and shut downs. MEMTEST86+ gave me over 10000 errors for single RAM sticks. Two slots on the motherboard for RAM didn't work at all, so the motherboard was defect for sure. They replaced the RAM because they had also issues on another system. They test my system non-stop for 48 hours. Stresstesting and monitoring it all. It ran clean.
Also, I have watched the voltage, before the last repair, of all components with HWMonitor and didn't see any weird readings.

I have to say that I did suspect the GPU before. It has ran fine for a couple years before I upgraded the system. A new GPU is a bit out of my budget atm, so I decided to keep the 2070 super. I will check this with the shop tho, if they can check the voltage and working of the GPU again. It is also the only component that is left from the old system.

[Lobster84]

Update:

I called the shop and they said it's probably a faulty PSU indeed. I mentioned the GPU and they asked me if I could test the system without the GPU and use the onboard GPU instead while swapping RAM sticks around, just to be sure.
I tried and the DRAM with click in the PSU keeps happening.

 

I used a new cable for the PSU with this test too. When inserting the cable in the outlet, arching happened and disabled the monitor that is connected to my laptop.

The monitor works again after reinserting the adapter in the outlet.

Now I have two questions

1) Can arcing fry a PSU?

2) Am I right in suspecting that the extended outlet with surge protection is a probable cause?

 

The outlet can handle, according to the manufacturer, 3680 Watt and has a surge protection up to 2000V. It has 8 sockets and the only things connected are the two monitors and the system.

[CommanderAlex]

2 hours ago, Lobster84 said:

Would the phone charging setting be in the bios? I charge my phone with it's own adapter in another outlet. If I can turn that setting off, that would be great.

 

About the power states of the motherboard, do you mean if it goes to sleep or turned off etc?
I never put my system to sleep manually. It is either on or completely off, for me at least. Is it possible that the motherboard would have a different power state when I shut down the system?

 

I do have to say that the settings in Windows for power saving have been scaled up to prevent the system to go to sleep during rendering work. I bumped the time limit up to several hours, instead of the standard time (it is 20 minutes I believe).

I will discuss this with the shop. I am going to call them and see what they say.

Yes, this option may be a dedicated feature or related to one of the numerous power states that the motherboard can have and stay in when shut off. It is possible for the motherboard to have a different power state when shut down. 

 

43 minutes ago, Lobster84 said:

Update:

I called the shop and they said it's probably a faulty PSU indeed. I mentioned the GPU and they asked me if I could test the system without the GPU and use the onboard GPU instead while swapping RAM sticks around, just to be sure.
I tried and the DRAM with click in the PSU keeps happening.

 

I used a new cable for the PSU with this test too. When inserting the cable in the outlet, arching happened and disabled the monitor that is connected to my laptop.

The monitor works again after reinserting the adapter in the outlet.

Now I have two questions

1) Can arcing fry a PSU?

2) Am I right in suspecting that the extended outlet with surge protection is a probable cause?

 

The outlet can handle, according to the manufacturer, 3680 Watt and has a surge protection up to 2000V. It has 8 sockets and the only things connected are the two monitors and the system.

That arching you see is usually just due to power inrush into the power supply to fill the main capacitors. Usually see this with other electronics and my gaming laptop's charger for the power brick. 

 

If the extension outlet is pretty old, then maybe there is damage to it that you can't see inside that may be causing these issues. Just a thought. 

[maxmaster]

Most likely it is DDR5 & processor merging problem. U didnt wrote what kind of memory you do have and is it listed on gaming x ax support site. If not then most likely the xmp profile wont work. Thats a one thing another is that it will work 99,9 chance with xmp + expo + low latency. But if the ram is bad sample u might need slightly increase the voltage. Thats one thing.

 

Another thing is that the motherboard gaming x ax is isnt very stable on f20a/f20 bios especially with high memory speed excesing 6000 mhz. Thats why u should say exactly what ram u have. So use the f20a bios it is the most stable if u cannot find it then f9, also f20 worth trying.

 

Than if u know these things u have to change the vddg and vddp, increase the SoC. The vddp on auto is usually very high like 1.2v while vddg 950 or 1000 with new bios. It might work but as well might cause instability. 

 

At last but not least install the zentimings program and check the bus Om. Might happend that wrong values are setted on auto. U will have to put it all around 40 but the best when they are different like 43/38 /48 etc. Check all these things. Running 6000 mhz on gaming x ax is not a problem problems are starting on 1:2 over 7000 mhz. 

 

Why the computer worked and now is not? Probably due to the leak of electricity. When they setted (f.e config that is on the egde of stability also might happen) vddp ans vddg and u have been somewhere the computer without energy chenged the values by it self thats the problem of the gigabyte gaming x ax. 

 

The last option which is not invasive. Check if they saved the working profile in bios. Then. Check if they touched vddp and vddg. Load the profile set vddp and vddg to auto. Save restart, set vddp to the value it was, save restar. And the last set the vddg iod ans ccd to their value. It should work. If not u might look for the working setting by your self. Sometimes it is changing on gigabye mb by itself, but less likely. Read the introduction

 

Ps. If you have rev 1.2 i can upload f20a bios bcos it is not there anymore. On f20 might be good it is "stable" version, not beta, but for me the beta work better, i know because i  checked f20

 

Ps.2 For all the voltage spikes it is common for all gigabyte am5. The best what u can do on tweak 2nd site left SoC auto, go to overclock 3rd site, go to the soc and set smth from 1250 to 1300. It should be better

[Lobster84]

53 minutes ago, CommanderAlex said:

Yes, this option may be a dedicated feature or related to one of the numerous power states that the motherboard can have and stay in when shut off. It is possible for the motherboard to have a different power state when shut down. 

 

That arching you see is usually just due to power inrush into the power supply to fill the main capacitors. Usually see this with other electronics and my gaming laptop's charger for the power brick. 

 

If the extension outlet is pretty old, then maybe there is damage to it that you can't see inside that may be causing these issues. Just a thought. 

I will look into the power state of the motherboard. Thank you.

The outlet is pretty new, bought it in September. But I am not sure if it is working correctly.

There are some new updates tho.

 

I called the shop and they suggested to clear the CMOS. So I did and at first it didn't really help. Got the click noise and DRAM again.

Having the outlet in mind I connected the system to another extension that was connected to a different room and different powergroup on the grid.

I turn on the pc and heard a click but I let the computer run for about 10 minutes because of memory training, no gpu or peripherals except for one monitor. When I got back I had a boot failure message on my monitor. It also said the CMOS had been cleared and I got three options. To load default settings and boot or reboot and to go into bios.

 

I connected my mouse and keyboard, they both have power but the keyboard does not register key inputs. I do a manual restart and same thing happened again, keyboard didn't work for some reason but the lights for numlock are on and work if I press that button. At this point I had my monitor connected to the onboard GPU.

 

I decided to shut the system off again and install my GPU, the 2070 super. This time I got into the same screen and was able to use my keyboard. I went into the bios and loaded the profile that the shop put in, tailored for this motherboard. The version is from December 18th, 2023. There is one newer version released on December 21st, 2023. I figured the one I have is fine for now.

I can start the pc and get into Windows. The clicking noise is gone too but starting up takes a long time now.

 

As soon as I had the bios message and started to restart to figure out to get the keyboard to work, restarting took a longer time because there is a delay in the DRAM check. It takes about 30 to 60 seconds before it really starts. In that time I have no video output, it makes no difference if the cable is plugged into the onboard GPU or the 2070 Super.

 

The only real difference is that my system is now connected to another extension outlet and another room.

 

Any thoughts on this? This is also the reason why I don't trust the first extension outlet.

[CommanderAlex]

12 minutes ago, Lobster84 said:

I will look into the power state of the motherboard. Thank you.

The outlet is pretty new, bought it in September. But I am not sure if it is working correctly.

There are some new updates tho.

 

I called the shop and they suggested to clear the CMOS. So I did and at first it didn't really help. Got the click noise and DRAM again.

Having the outlet in mind I connected the system to another extension that was connected to a different room and different powergroup on the grid.

I turn on the pc and heard a click but I let the computer run for about 10 minutes because of memory training, no gpu or peripherals except for one monitor. When I got back I had a boot failure message on my monitor. It also said the CMOS had been cleared and I got three options. To load default settings and boot or reboot and to go into bios.

 

I connected my mouse and keyboard, they both have power but the keyboard does not register key inputs. I do a manual restart and same thing happened again, keyboard didn't work for some reason but the lights for numlock are on and work if I press that button. At this point I had my monitor connected to the onboard GPU.

 

I decided to shut the system off again and install my GPU, the 2070 super. This time I got into the same screen and was able to use my keyboard. I went into the bios and loaded the profile that the shop put in, tailored for this motherboard. The version is from December 18th, 2023. There is one newer version released on December 21st, 2023. I figured the one I have is fine for now.

I can start the pc and get into Windows. The clicking noise is gone too but starting up takes a long time now.

 

As soon as I had the bios message and started to restart to figure out to get the keyboard to work, restarting took a longer time because there is a delay in the DRAM check. It takes about 30 to 60 seconds before it really starts. In that time I have no video output, it makes no difference if the cable is plugged into the onboard GPU or the 2070 Super.

 

The only real difference is that my system is now connected to another extension outlet and another room.

 

Any thoughts on this? This is also the reason why I don't trust the first extension outlet.

Could definitely be onto something here with that outlet not working. Memory training on DDR5 systems can take awhile before completely booting up. Historically speaking, Corsair Vengeance and Ryzen CPUs don't get along that well we were on DDR4 and trying to enable the XMP/DOCP profiles. Some other users have reported issues trying to get XMP to work on DDR5 systems and I wonder if this may be the issue. 

[Lobster84]

1 hour ago, maxmaster said:

Most likely it is DDR5 & processor merging problem. U didnt wrote what kind of memory you do have and is it listed on gaming x ax support site. If not then most likely the xmp profile wont work. Thats a one thing another is that it will work 99,9 chance with xmp + expo + low latency. But if the ram is bad sample u might need slightly increase the voltage. Thats one thing.

 

Another thing is that the motherboard gaming x ax is isnt very stable on f20a/f20 bios especially with high memory speed excesing 6000 mhz. Thats why u should say exactly what ram u have. So use the f20a bios it is the most stable if u cannot find it then f9, also f20 worth trying.

 

Than if u know these things u have to change the vddg and vddp, increase the SoC. The vddp on auto is usually very high like 1.2v while vddg 950 or 1000 with new bios. It might work but as well might cause instability. 

 

At last but not least install the zentimings program and check the bus Om. Might happend that wrong values are setted on auto. U will have to put it all around 40 but the best when they are different like 43/38 /48 etc. Check all these things. Running 6000 mhz on gaming x ax is not a problem problems are starting on 1:2 over 7000 mhz. 

 

Why the computer worked and now is not? Probably due to the leak of electricity. When they setted (f.e config that is on the egde of stability also might happen) vddp ans vddg and u have been somewhere the computer without energy chenged the values by it self thats the problem of the gigabyte gaming x ax. 

 

The last option which is not invasive. Check if they saved the working profile in bios. Then. Check if they touched vddp and vddg. Load the profile set vddp and vddg to auto. Save restart, set vddp to the value it was, save restar. And the last set the vddg iod ans ccd to their value. It should work. If not u might look for the working setting by your self. Sometimes it is changing on gigabye mb by itself, but less likely. Read the introduction

 

Ps. If you have rev 1.2 i can upload f20a bios bcos it is not there anymore. On f20 might be good it is "stable" version, not beta, but for me the beta work better, i know because i  checked f20

 

Ps.2 For all the voltage spikes it is common for all gigabyte am5. The best what u can do on tweak 2nd site left SoC auto, go to overclock 3rd site, go to the soc and set smth from 1250 to 1300. It should be better

I have to look into this. I am not versed in overclocking or tweaking with voltages, speeds and timings. A computer shop did OC a computer of my sister without asking her and it got fried.

 

I am sorry, I did not post the exact details because I had no access to them. But at the moment I do, so here they are:

MB = rev 1.3

Bios = FA1a

DDR5 = Corsair Vengeance DDR5 5600 (2800 MHz) 2x 16G

 

The thing with Gigabyte and supported RAM is that they mention that the list they provide is not absolute because testing all possible RAM would be impossible. These modules were not mentioned in the supported RAM section but it was mentioned that comparable ram would fit and work.

I bought this kit as one package, the shop and/or manufacturers put this together and tested if it would work (or so they say). I assumed that the compatibility would be of no issue. I have bought upgrade kits before that worked like a dream.
The kit consist of the RAM, MB and CPU. I bought the cooler with the same shop and checked if it would fit.

 

I was afraid that Gigabyte could change settings on its own.

 

I am not sure what you mean with vddg, vddp and SoC, iod or ccd. I get it has something to do with voltage and that it is probably in the bios.

[Lobster84]

14 minutes ago, CommanderAlex said:

Could definitely be onto something here with that outlet not working. Memory training on DDR5 systems can take awhile before completely booting up. Historically speaking, Corsair Vengeance and Ryzen CPUs don't get along that well we were on DDR4 and trying to enable the XMP/DOCP profiles. Some other users have reported issues trying to get XMP to work on DDR5 systems and I wonder if this may be the issue. 

Like I said in my responds to Maxmaster, I bought an upgrade kit for which they claim that it has been tested and found compatible. I know that doesn't mean that every set will work perfectly.

If it would be the case of not working well together, I have to let them check that. I have no means of checking the compatibility.

I do remember that I tried to enable XMP with the second motherboard. That didn't work and crashed the bios. I had to revert back to default settings to get into Windows. I tried it because the shop did not load in their working profile for the bios.

I am not sure if I want to test it with this system tho, same goes for the tweaking of voltages like Maxmaster said. A bit to afraid of destroying the system completely hehe.

I will check the bios to see if their profile did something to the RAM values.

[Lobster84]

I have uploaded some pictures of the bios and voltage settings. Maybe this could be of some help? Like I said, I have no idea on how to tweak this to the right settings.

[maxmaster]

26 minutes ago, Lobster84 said:

I have to look into this. I am not versed in overclocking or tweaking with voltages, speeds and timings. A computer shop did OC a computer of my sister without asking her and it got fried.

 

I am sorry, I did not post the exact details because I had no access to them. But at the moment I do, so here they are:

MB = rev 1.3

Bios = FA1a

DDR5 = Corsair Vengeance DDR5 5600 (2800 MHz) 2x 16G

 

The thing with Gigabyte and supported RAM is that they mention that the list they provide is not absolute because testing all possible RAM would be impossible. These modules were not mentioned in the supported RAM section but it was mentioned that comparable ram would fit and work.

I bought this kit as one package, the shop and/or manufacturers put this together and tested if it would work (or so they say). I assumed that the compatibility would be of no issue. I have bought upgrade kits before that worked like a dream.
The kit consist of the RAM, MB and CPU. I bought the cooler with the same shop and checked if it would fit.

 

I was afraid that Gigabyte could change settings on its own.

 

I am not sure what you mean with vddg, vddp and SoC, iod or ccd. I get it has something to do with voltage and that it is probably in the bios.

But if the computer post "is working", doesnt mean it is stable. It is expo there for. Just try to turn it. Vddp and vddg are on the tweaking tab, the penultimate possition. Well u need to learn a little, otherwhise it might be hard.

 

There is a lot of corsair vengence stocks 5600 36 36 36 , it is samsung kit, 100% it wil run 6000 cl 36 36 36, but actually all the ddr5 5600mhz sticks are able to run 60x. So u might try to run xmp, enable expo, enable low latency, set multiplyer 60x, and set the voltage VDD to little higher than default xmp. Like if it is 1.3 on auto set 1.355