Jump to content

Corsair RMx or RMe

B1ueTera
By B1ueTera
in Power Supplies
 Share
Posted

Hi.
So i have both looked at the Corsair RMx and RMe series of power supplies. RMx is about 45 euro more expensive then the RMe series. Is it worth spending more to get the RMx or is the RMe okay. ?
It also seems like the RMe series is newer but also cheaper. And the RMe series has some newer features like the new power connecter (12VHPWR). But not sure if i am ever gonna use that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted

It’s on corsairs website FC4C42F6-9E9B-4D8F-8E17-4581E96D1DCD.thumb.jpeg.7ab2560b8dd7ddacd43240b9e41987f7.jpeg

also besides this I think rmx has a 10 year warranty instead of the 7 or rme 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted

RMx has better quality capacitors and cooling which means it gets a 10 year warranty instead the the 7 year warranty given to the RMe.

 

If you plan on building in extra capacity to your PSU (for upgradability over the next 10 years or if you have another use case for it after you’ve finished with it in your main machine) I’d get the RMx. Otherwise go RMe.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Expand for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components and other tech. I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need.

 

Common build advice: 1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticably improve performance past 240mm.

 

useful websites: https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

He/Him

 

I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 3 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). While I believe I have an decent amount of experience in spec’ing, building and troubleshooting computers, keep in mind I'm not an expert or a professional and I make mistakes.

 

Favourite Games of all time: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii

 

Main PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C

 

Secondary PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P

 

TrueNAS Server: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C

 

Laptop: 13.4" ASUS GZ301ZE ROG Flow Z13, WUXGA 120Hz, i9 12900H, 16GB DDR5, 1TB NVMe SSD, 4GB RTX 3050 Ti, TB4, Win11 Home, Used with: 2*ThinkPad Universal Thunderbolt 4 Dock, Logitech G603, Logitech G502 Hero, Logitech K120, Logitech G915 TKL, Xbox Elite Wireless Controller Series 2, Logitech G PRO X Gaming-Headset (with Blue Icepop in Black), {specs to be updated: two monitors}

 

Other: LTT Screwdriver, LTT Stubby Screwdriver, IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit, Playstation 1 SCPH-102, Playstation 2 SCPH-30003, Gameboy Micro Silver OXY-001, Nintendo Wii U WUP-001(03), Playstation 4 CUH-1116A, Nintendo Switch OLED HEG-001, Yamaha RX-A4A Black AV Receiver, Monitor Audio Radius (4*90s, 1*200s, 2*270s, 1*380s), TP-Link TL-SG105-M2, Netgear GS308, IPhone 14 Pro Max 128GB Space Black, Secretlab TITAN Evo (Black SoftWeave Plus Fabric), 2*CyberPower BR1200ELCD-UK BRICs Series, Samsung 40" ES6800 Series 6 SMART 3D FHD LED TV, UGREEN USB 3.2 Gen 2 10Gbps M.2 NVMe SSD Enclosure, SABRENT 3.5" SATA drive docking station

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
10 minutes ago, B1ueTera said:

Hi.
So i have both looked at the Corsair RMx and RMe series of power supplies. RMx is about 45 euro more expensive then the RMe series. Is it worth spending more to get the RMx or is the RMe okay. ?
It also seems like the RMe series is newer but also cheaper. And the RMe series has some newer features like the new power connecter (12VHPWR). But not sure if i am ever gonna use that.

rmx has a maglev fan as well as a bigger one with more reliable capacitors as @AndreiArgeanu said

Message me on discord (bread8669) for more help 

 

Current parts list: 

CPU: R5 5600 CPU Cooler: Stock

Mobo: Asrock B550M-ITX/ac

RAM: Vengeance LPX 2x8GB 3200mhz Cl16

SSD: P5 Plus 500GB Secondary SSD: Kingston A400 960GB

GPU: MSI RTX 3060 Gaming X

Fans: 1x Noctua NF-P12 Redux, 1x Arctic P12, 1x Corsair LL120

PSU: NZXT SP-650M SFX-L PSU from H1

Monitor: Samsung WQHD 34 inch and 43 inch TV

Mouse: Logitech G203

Keyboard: Rii membrane keyboard

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

Damn this space can fit a 4090 (just kidding)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted

Just go with the damn rme

 

Better capacitors, better blablabla, all rubbish that only looks good in a spec sheet but doesnt mean shit in the real world.

 

Both will long outlast their warranties as psus are generally expected to work for 10-15 years, honestly wouldnt be surprised to see that rme hit 15 years or that rmx hit 17 years of life considering my random ass internet cafe spec 450w is already 12 years old now and still going (both will be far better quality than this thing)

 

45€ more you may aswell go for a 1000w unit thatll inherently be more futureproof cause components are only gonna keep drawing more power

 

Stop paying attention to garbage specsheets and pay attention to things that actually matter (reviews, wattage rating on the single 12v rail, and noise). With that logic i can buy used quality psus for dirt cheap and have them last for years as long as i dont buy something too old like what i did for that 450w but 3 years of ownership and its still going

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing Power Supplies

×