BEST MOTHER BOARD FOR i5 13600k UNDER 160?

[Braydoge]

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JtTRrD

[will0hlep]

Are there any features you need of the board?

 

also, if all you do is gaming buy a cheaper SSD like a Kingston NV2.

[Braydoge]

Just now, will0hlep said:

Are there any features you need of the board?

So this is my first ever build idk what even I need tbh but it doesn't have to be a certain color or rgb

[will0hlep]

3 minutes ago, Braydoge said:

So this is my first ever build idk what even I need tbh but it doesn't have to be a certain color or rgb

Okay, when buying a MB here is the rule: buy the cheapest thing that suits your needs. (Paying more only gets features not performance)

 

I suggest getting 4 memory slots and a full ATX board. After that, do you need Wi-Fi? do you need more than the usual amount of IO?

[Braydoge]

2 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

Okay, when buying a MB here is the rule: buy the cheapest thing that suits your needs. (Paying more only gets features not performance)

 

I suggest getting 4 memory slots and a full ATX board. After that, do you need Wi-Fi? do you need more than the usual amount of IO?

I don't need wifi and tbh idk what IO is 

 

[will0hlep]

1 minute ago, Braydoge said:

I don't need wifi and tbh idk what IO is 

 

IO basically means ports (USB, Ethernet, ect.)

[Braydoge]

Ok so u do need Ethernet and ub ports atleast 6 

[will0hlep]

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jRhFf7/asrock-b660-steel-legend-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b660-steel-legend
 

this should do. You may need to update the bios, but this can be done with a USB stick (and another computer to download the bios onto the usb stick).

 

also you need to make sure your cooler ships with the correct mounting hardware. I suggest contacting the seller in advance.

[Braydoge]

2 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jRhFf7/asrock-b660-steel-legend-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b660-steel-legend
 

this should do. You may need to update the bios, but this can be done with a USB stick (and another computer to download the bios onto the usb stick).

 

also you need to make sure your cooler ships with the correct mounting hardware. I suggest contacting the seller in advance.

ok thank you so much 

[Braydoge]

7 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jRhFf7/asrock-b660-steel-legend-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b660-steel-legend
 

this should do. You may need to update the bios, but this can be done with a USB stick (and another computer to download the bios onto the usb stick).

 

also you need to make sure your cooler ships with the correct mounting hardware. I suggest contacting the seller in advance.

Hey why wouldn't the cpu work isn't the board a Lga 1700

[Budget DIY]

34 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

Okay, when buying a MB here is the rule: buy the cheapest thing that suits your needs. (Paying more only gets features not performance)

 

I suggest getting 4 memory slots and a full ATX board. After that, do you need Wi-Fi? do you need more than the usual amount of IO?

I don't know what's wrong with you, but this is really up there, when considering "worst advice ever". I agree one shouldn't pay for features if they don't need them. However, paying more CAN get you more performance (better power delivery, when OC-ing), or just all-round better quality components.

Brand also does matter. Different brands handle support/warranty issues differently. Which is something a consumer should AT LEAST consider.

And finally, what I myself considered important while buying my current mobo, is BIOS updates/software updates.

(when AMD started with Ryzen, Asrock wasn't a brand I would initially consider, because of my views on their reputation from the past. However, they did take Ryzen serious, used mostly quality components and really kept pushing updates to keep things moving forward. While some other brands, were lacking with bug fixes, or were just all-round lazy-ish. Not going the "extra mile" for an AMD related product, because "the people" considered AMD a B-grade brand. This made me consider and eventually buy an Asrock motherboard for my current build)

[will0hlep]

22 minutes ago, Budget DIY said:

I don't know what's wrong with you, but this is really up there, when considering "worst advice ever". I agree one shouldn't pay for features if they don't need them. However, paying more CAN get you more performance (better power delivery, when OC-ing), or just all-round better quality components.

Brand also does matter. Different brands handle support/warranty issues differently. Which is something a consumer should AT LEAST consider.

And finally, what I myself considered important while buying my current mobo, is BIOS updates/software updates.

(when AMD started with Ryzen, Asrock wasn't a brand I would initially consider, because of my views on their reputation from the past. However, they did take Ryzen serious, used mostly quality components and really kept pushing updates to keep things moving forward. While some other brands, were lacking with bug fixes, or were just all-round lazy-ish. Not going the "extra mile" for an AMD related product, because "the people" considered AMD a B-grade brand. This made me consider and eventually buy an Asrock motherboard for my current build)

Okay, OCing is an exception to my rule but it’s also a dead meme at this point. Most users will never OC their system.

 

Secondly, in my experience brand really doesn’t matter that much. Spending more on the board rarely leads to a proportionally longer life span.

 

Thirdly, Bios updates can usually be done on request by most sellers if you contact them before shipping, so it really is a non issue most of the time.

 

In conclusion: the advice isn’t perfect and should be taken with a grain of salt, but in the vast majority of cases the right board is on the lower end (which is the spirit of the advice). As you can see I followed it up with helping the OP through the process of selecting a board, at which point, I considered these other factors before making a recommendation.

 

Also, feel free to disagree with me, I openly admit I’m not an expert and I will make mistakes (see my signature), but please be respectful. I wouldn’t insult you, don’t insult me.

[will0hlep]

30 minutes ago, Braydoge said:

Hey why wouldn't the cpu work isn't the board a Lga 1700

Are you seeing an error on pc part picker?

 

”The ASRock B660 Steel Legend ATX LGA1700 Motherboard supports the Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor with BIOS version 7.02. If the motherboard is using an older BIOS version, upgrading the BIOS will be necessary to support the CPU.”

 

this just means you need to do a bios update but the board in question has bios flashback so that shoild be easy enough.

[Ebony Falcon]

Z690/790 Msi a pro board

its the cheapest Z board, any b board will require 360 aio as u can’t underclock without droping power limit, which lowers performance 

[will0hlep]

9 minutes ago, Ebony Falcon said:

Z690/790 Msi a pro board

its the cheapest Z board, any b board will require 360 aio as u can’t underclock without droping power limit, which lowers performance 

Given that we are talking about a 1440p monitor and a 13600K, I think power draw in most games should be low enough for the Thermalright Peerless Assassin to handle it without an underclock or undervolt.

In the case that I'm wrong and the performance uplift would actually be noticable, the OP could go for this board for only $20 more, https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8GH7YJ/asrock-z690-phantom-gaming-4-atx-lga1700-motherboard-z690-phantom-gaming-4, however I stand by my orginal recommendation.

[Ebony Falcon]

38 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

Given that we are talking about a 1440p monitor and a 13600K, I think power draw in most games should be low enough for the Thermalright Peerless Assassin to handle it without an underclock or undervolt.

In the case that I'm wrong and the performance uplift would actually be noticable, the OP could go for this board for only $20 more, https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8GH7YJ/asrock-z690-phantom-gaming-4-atx-lga1700-motherboard-z690-phantom-gaming-4, however I stand by my orginal recommendation.

Funny u should mention that cooler, just been helping a guy with a b board and that cooler and he hits 85c in cyberpunk 

 

had to disable the e cores to get it under 80

[will0hlep]

Just now, Ebony Falcon said:

Funny u should mention that cooler, just been helping a guy with a b board and that cooler and he hits 85c in cyberpunk 

 

had to disable the e cores to get it under 80

hang on, 85 is fine? these chips don't throttle till mid 90s? Why would you disable the e cores when it's running well within thermal limits?

[Ebony Falcon]

1 hour ago, will0hlep said:

hang on, 85 is fine? these chips don't throttle till mid 90s? Why would you disable the e cores when it's running well within thermal limits?

Ain’t no one me want to game at 85c

[will0hlep]

3 minutes ago, Ebony Falcon said:

Ain’t no one me want to game at 85c

I'm sorry, I don't understand what you mean. These chips are designed for these tempritures, as far as I'm aware there is no reason to take such radical action at 85 degrees.

[Ebony Falcon]

10 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

I'm sorry, I don't understand what you mean. These chips are designed for these tempritures, as far as I'm aware there is no reason to take such radical action at 85 degrees.

Most would disagree 

[Beerzerker]

4 hours ago, Budget DIY said:

I don't know what's wrong with you, but this is really up there, when considering "worst advice ever". I agree one shouldn't pay for features if they don't need them. However, paying more CAN get you more performance (better power delivery, when OC-ing), or just all-round better quality components.

Brand also does matter. Different brands handle support/warranty issues differently. Which is something a consumer should AT LEAST consider.

And finally, what I myself considered important while buying my current mobo, is BIOS updates/software updates.

(when AMD started with Ryzen, Asrock wasn't a brand I would initially consider, because of my views on their reputation from the past. However, they did take Ryzen serious, used mostly quality components and really kept pushing updates to keep things moving forward. While some other brands, were lacking with bug fixes, or were just all-round lazy-ish. Not going the "extra mile" for an AMD related product, because "the people" considered AMD a B-grade brand. This made me consider and eventually buy an Asrock motherboard for my current build)

 

4 hours ago, will0hlep said:

Okay, OCing is an exception to my rule but it’s also a dead meme at this point. Most users will never OC their system.

 

Secondly, in my experience brand really doesn’t matter that much. Spending more on the board rarely leads to a proportionally longer life span.

 

Thirdly, Bios updates can usually be done on request by most sellers if you contact them before shipping, so it really is a non issue most of the time.

 

In conclusion: the advice isn’t perfect and should be taken with a grain of salt, but in the vast majority of cases the right board is on the lower end (which is the spirit of the advice). As you can see I followed it up with helping the OP through the process of selecting a board, at which point, I considered these other factors before making a recommendation.

 

Also, feel free to disagree with me, I openly admit I’m not an expert and I will make mistakes (see my signature), but please be respectful. I wouldn’t insult you, don’t insult me.

Both of you are correct, at least to an extent and maybe this is the reason for the disagreement here.

The thing about not spending any more for a board than you have to is just smart, BUT at the same time it's possible to go too cheap and wind up with a real piece of shiite on your hands.
Do bear in mind there are a few board models (Tiers) to choose from.  The tier it is, based on it's model will determine how it's made, what it's got and so on - Normally if you pay more, you'll get more but that in itself is no guarantee of anything.

What I mean by model tier would be the features it has over a board of a lesser model by name, such as an X570 board being a higher model/tier than a B550 board as an example.
They tend to have more features and better things like it's VRM setup for example. You won't see a B550 having as strong of a VRM setup as a X570 board.... At least you're not supposed to but that depends on the maker as well because they can make it whatever VRM setup they want regardless of chipset used.

With that in mind lets consider a few things.
First, the chip in question is a 125W chip by it's specs, nothing outrageous there to really worry about if it's ran at stock but at the same time it's NOT a chip you'd want in a base model (Cheap) board due to the fact it will have the same related to it's VRM setup, which can be important here.
The one the OP listed looks to be fine for this chip if there isn't much, if any OC'ing done.

Next, what features are you wanting?
You first, determine the level/quality of the board you want to support the chip and then start exploring features, taking note of what one has that you may need or want.
Higher chipset modeled boards will have more features, that just how it is due to the capability of the chipset used in it. Obviously a top of the line board model will have the best of everything... Strong VRM setup and enough features you won't have anything lacking in most cases and well capable of OC'ing too if you want but at the same time, there is the pricetag to consider which IS the ultimate decision factor of anything, however you want to put it.
No budget for it, no board purchased - The end.

Once you dig into all that, what you find will help narrow it down to either a few or even "The One" to get.

As for temps seen under load, just know heat is the bane of electronics/electrical devices, it always has been and probrably always will be too.

Even IF it's designed or rated to operate at 85c and that's what you are seeing, if you can reduce this temp somehow there is nothing wrong in itself by just doing it so don't just straightup discourage it for the sake of doing so.
Maybe it will be fine as is but I'm saying if they want to and can, why not?
Won't hurt a thing to do it.

[will0hlep]

1 hour ago, Ebony Falcon said:

Most would disagree 

Can you back up your position with some information please. There is no point messaging that.

 

35 minutes ago, Beerzerker said:

 

Both of you are correct, at least to an extent and maybe this is the reason for the disagreement here.

The thing about not spending any more for a board than you have to is just smart, BUT at the same time it's possible to go too cheap and wind up with a real piece of shiite on your hands.
Do bear in mind there are a few board models (Tiers) to choose from.  The tier it is, based on it's model will determine how it's made, what it's got and so on - Normally if you pay more, you'll get more but that in itself is no guarantee of anything.

What I mean by model tier would be the features it has over a board of a lesser model by name, such as an X570 board being a higher model/tier than a B550 board as an example.
They tend to have more features and better things like it's VRM setup for example. You won't see a B550 having as strong of a VRM setup as a X570 board.... At least you're not supposed to but that depends on the maker as well because they can make it whatever VRM setup they want regardless of chipset used.

With that in mind lets consider a few things.
First, the chip in question is a 125W chip by it's specs, nothing outrageous there to really worry about if it's ran at stock but at the same time it's NOT a chip you'd want in a base model (Cheap) board due to the fact it will have the same related to it's VRM setup, which can be important here.
The one the OP listed looks to be fine for this chip if there isn't much, if any OC'ing done.

Next, what features are you wanting?
You first, determine the level/quality of the board you want to support the chip and then start exploring features, taking note of what one has that you may need or want.
Higher chipset modeled boards will have more features, that just how it is due to the capability of the chipset used in it. Obviously a top of the line board model will have the best of everything... Strong VRM setup and enough features you won't have anything lacking in most cases and well capable of OC'ing too if you want but at the same time, there is the pricetag to consider which IS the ultimate decision factor of anything, however you want to put it.
No budget for it, no board purchased - The end.

Once you dig into all that, what you find will help narrow it down to either a few or even "The One" to get.

As for temps seen under load, just know heat is the bane of electronics/electrical devices, it always has been and probrably always will be too.

Even IF it's designed or rated to operate at 85c and that's what you are seeing, if you can reduce this temp somehow there is nothing wrong in itself by just doing it so don't just straightup discourage it for the sake of doing so.
Maybe it will be fine as is but I'm saying if they want to and can, why not?
Won't hurt a thing to do it.

I really don't see thermals of 85 as being much of an issue for modern chips. I certainly don't see 85c being a reason to disable the e cores on a CPU. 

 

As for what boards to buy: yes I know all this .

[Ebony Falcon]

44 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

Can you back up your position with some information please. There is no point messaging that.

 

I really don't see thermals of 85 as being much of an issue for modern chips. I certainly don't see 85c being a reason to disable the e cores on a CPU. 

 

As for what boards to buy: yes I know all this .

Iv been in the forum a long time and iv been in other forums longer, iv read countless posts about gaming temps and most people are comfortable up to 65c for gaming as it leaves a bit of head room for more intensive tasks 

[Budget DIY]

1 hour ago, Beerzerker said:

 

Both of you are correct, at least to an extent and maybe this is the reason for the disagreement here.

The thing about not spending any more for a board than you have to is just smart, BUT at the same time it's possible to go too cheap and wind up with a real piece of shiite on your hands.
Do bear in mind there are a few board models (Tiers) to choose from.  The tier it is, based on it's model will determine how it's made, what it's got and so on - Normally if you pay more, you'll get more but that in itself is no guarantee of anything.

What I mean by model tier would be the features it has over a board of a lesser model by name, such as an X570 board being a higher model/tier than a B550 board as an example.
They tend to have more features and better things like it's VRM setup for example. You won't see a B550 having as strong of a VRM setup as a X570 board.... At least you're not supposed to but that depends on the maker as well because they can make it whatever VRM setup they want regardless of chipset used.

With that in mind lets consider a few things.
First, the chip in question is a 125W chip by it's specs, nothing outrageous there to really worry about if it's ran at stock but at the same time it's NOT a chip you'd want in a base model (Cheap) board due to the fact it will have the same related to it's VRM setup, which can be important here.
The one the OP listed looks to be fine for this chip if there isn't much, if any OC'ing done.

Next, what features are you wanting?
You first, determine the level/quality of the board you want to support the chip and then start exploring features, taking note of what one has that you may need or want.
Higher chipset modeled boards will have more features, that just how it is due to the capability of the chipset used in it. Obviously a top of the line board model will have the best of everything... Strong VRM setup and enough features you won't have anything lacking in most cases and well capable of OC'ing too if you want but at the same time, there is the pricetag to consider which IS the ultimate decision factor of anything, however you want to put it.
No budget for it, no board purchased - The end.

Once you dig into all that, what you find will help narrow it down to either a few or even "The One" to get.

As for temps seen under load, just know heat is the bane of electronics/electrical devices, it always has been and probrably always will be too.

Even IF it's designed or rated to operate at 85c and that's what you are seeing, if you can reduce this temp somehow there is nothing wrong in itself by just doing it so don't just straightup discourage it for the sake of doing so.
Maybe it will be fine as is but I'm saying if they want to and can, why not?
Won't hurt a thing to do it.

I'm not an expert on all the details for components, far from it. But when I picked my motherboard, I did watch a bunch of Buildzoid (?) vids, which at that point got featured/hired a fair bit by Gamers Nexus. I eventually got confident in this person, and his board analysis. I wouldn't understand all the details they were rambling about. But I found him really helpful at analyzing the quality of the components used, and which brands would "cut corners" more often then others. The more happy sounds he made when reviewing a board/brand, the more confident I got in the hardware.

For me personally, quality does really matter, because I plan on using my hardware for a long time. Previous time I bought a new motherboard, I ended up using it about 10 years, 24/7. (socket AM2 based board, it was an higher-end board, and it even got "unofficial official" BIOS updates, so people could eventually even run AM3+ CPU's) And that's where I came from with my "pay for quality" advice. I'm currently well into my 4th year of using my main components 24/7. I've had zero (0) issues with it so far. Everything just worked, and there are no visible signs of usage aside from some dust maybe. CPU is locked at 4.2 ghz, which is also max boost.

[Braydoge]

1 minute ago, Budget DIY said:

I'm not an expert on all the details for components, far from it. But when I picked my motherboard, I did watch a bunch of Buildzoid (?) vids, which at that point got featured/hired a fair bit by Gamers Nexus. I eventually got confident in this person, and his board analysis. I wouldn't understand all the details they were rambling about. But I found him really helpful at analyzing the quality of the components used, and which brands would "cut corners" more often then others. The more happy sounds he made when reviewing a board/brand, the more confident I got in the hardware.

For me personally, quality does really matter, because I plan on using my hardware for a long time. Previous time I bought a new motherboard, I ended up using it about 10 years, 24/7. (socket AM2 based board, it was an higher-end board, and it even got "unofficial official" BIOS updates, so people could eventually even run AM3+ CPU's) And that's where I came from with my "pay for quality" advice. I'm currently well into my 4th year of using my main components 24/7. I've had zero (0) issues with it so far. Everything just worked, and there are no visible signs of usage aside from some dust maybe. CPU is locked at 4.2 ghz, which is also max boost.

Hey so guys can I just get a motherboard that is prob the best I can get for 150 or something like that