Utilitarian computer build, checking concept

[Obsidious1]

Budget (including currency): USD $3000

Country: USA

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: 

windows os atm

Open world games in 4K, on 2 monitors 

Skyrim with Mods

ESO

web browsing 

‘YouTube 

Other details 

existing parts lists: none

whether any peripherals are needed: 2 monitors 

what you're upgrading from: MSI laptop raider G77

when you're going to buy: I’m still in the planning stage

what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at: 60-120 fps, 120-240+ would be nice but I don’t think it is in my price range.

 

Now for the catch that is preventing me from getting started;

my goal is to build a gaming computer that is based on computing efficiency per watt, and reliability 

   No fancy lighting

   No extra fans

   No liquid cooling: and my reasoning; using a liquid to move heat from the middle of the case(CPU/GPU) to an air cooled radiator on the outside of the case just seems inefficient and high risk, vs air cooling directly on the outside side of the case, and reducing heat production, by like under clocking a CPU. I saw a motherboard that reverse mounted the CPU, and thought I am sure this would work well if the radiator looked good enough to be on the outside of the case, and have 1-2 fans mounted under the radiator blowing out after 25% max Temp., but a passive cooling gaming system would be awesome.

to explain my goals:

1 watt = 3.1 BTU, so when I increase the power consumption, I have to increase my air conditioning, but my power outlets can’t handle more then a 15000 BTU Air Conditioner, now I am paying for the power get the computer to work and remove the heat it produces…

 

Make the tower look pleasing to look at for when I clean my room no lights etc. when gaming do I look at the pretty lights… nope

 

my level of computer building is noob, so this is more of trying to find something as close to this concept as possible until I cave in and buy it

     

 

[dizmo]

• I've never seen a case made in the last 15 years that has the radiator on the outside of the case.
• AIOs are perfectly safe.
• I don't think you're going to be able to do any kind of passive cooled gaming system. Especially with the performance you're looking for.

The build @8tg put together is solid. Is it less power hungry than any other, or will produce less heat? Unlikely.

All builds hitting the performance you're looking for are going to generate a fair amount of heat when under load.

[Somerandomtechyboi]

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rsbH8r

¯\_ (ツ) _/¯ 

 

If you want effficiency then undervolt the cpu and gpu core then overclock the balls off rams and vram to compensate

 

cpu wise test max static all pcore freq w 1.1, 1.2, and 1.3v to see what the volt freq curve is on the cpu and you want the lowest volt but highest clockspeed so basically a volt : freq ratio which means a cpu (same architecture and sht so no variables) clocked at 3ghz 1.1v is less efficient than one clocked at 4ghz 1.2v (2.72 vs 3.33 mhz : mv ratio), ecores can be kept at ~1.2-1.3v max oc

 

Gpu wise its a dynamic volt curve so just undervolt w msi afterburner and a gpu benchmark/stress test like superposition in the background and lower volts as low as possible w/o crashing and artifacting, i suggest testing voltage range from 0.7 to 1v and basically do the same thing as the cpu, there should be some yt tutorials on how to play around with the v/f curve on gpus (mainly undervolting ones), best v/f ratio = best efficiency

 

vram wise just clock em as much as possible without destabilising it so that it needs ecc, basically itll look like its running fine but itll be slower due to the ecc, looking at fps or benchmarks will help to see if its slowing down due to too much freq

 

Ram wise ideally 2666 4x8 bare crucial/micron ddr4 (20-25$ ebay but likely lower on local used market) with c9bjz (top 2666 bin rev e) or d9wsm (rev j) which usually you can request cause its bare pcb and you can directly see the ic, theyre fine at lower speeds and you do wanna stay in gear 1 as gear 2 is just not worth it, just find a profile for 3600/3800 c14 and just plug it in at itll likely work maybe requiring a tiny bit of tuning (microns are very consistent), not advisable to go >1.5v ddr4 w/o fan due to heat concerns, not advisable to go >1.7v for the sake of the imc (so it doesnt slightly degradde overtime, microns dont degrade with volt btw). And alot of that benifit comes from running dual rank (4x8) so thats why i reccomend 4x8 or 2x16 double sided, you wont get much more out of it with manual tuning since dual rank + stealing someones oc profile off the internet gives 95% of oc benifits