weird capacitor value identification

[fanman1980]

on the face of the capacitor ( a ceramic disc capacitor) it is labled 330 10% 244. i can send a picture if needed 

[RollyShed]

330 and ceramic it is most likely 330 pf (picofarads). Certainly a picture would help.

[mr moose]

Since my brain turned to sludge I have started to rely on these:

 

 

330 should be 33pf.   But definitely worth sending a pic because the 244 on the end is new to me.

[Heats with Nvidia]

1 hour ago, mr moose said:

Since my brain turned to sludge I have started to rely on these:

 

 

 

330 should be 33pf.   But definitely worth sending a pic because the 244 on the end is new to me.

It might be... Some other just use the value in pF. Nonetheless, a photo really would help. And the information, in what type of device and where in it, it is, also.

[RollyShed]

21 hours ago, mr moose said:

330 should be 33pf.   But definitely worth sending a pic because the 244 on the end is new to me.

Don't you mean 330 should be 330pf, NOT 33pf.

 

Admittedly there was some odd numbering by some where there were always 3 digits so in that case the third digit would be "0" if not used = 33pf, except logically it would should be 033 = 33pf.

 

"Since my brain turned to sludge... " or maybe it was just a typo?

Yes, a good chart to have.

[mr moose]

28 minutes ago, RollyShed said:

Don't you mean 330 should be 330pf, NOT 33pf.

 

Admittedly there was some odd numbering by some where there were always 3 digits so in that case the third digit would be "0" if not used = 33pf, except logically it would should be 033 = 33pf.

Because the last digit in the code is usually the number of zeros i.e 330 is 33 and 0 zero's making it 33pF  while 331 is 33 with 1 zero making it 330pF.  It works similar to resistance but is manufacturer dependent (some print the value and some print the code).  

 

28 minutes ago, RollyShed said:

"Since my brain turned to sludge... " or maybe it was just a typo?

Yes, a good chart to have.

 

I don't know about others,  but when I have a lot on my mind or I am trying to do number stuff with a tired and stressed out b rain it turns to sludge.  It's just gets really easy to brain fart so i have found that cheat sheets save me time and money.   Also my eyes are going so I mostly use my DMM to measure each component before using it.  That saves a lot of "why doesn't this $%@&% thing work" type moments when the red band looks like a brown one.

[RollyShed]

45 minutes ago, mr moose said:

Because the last digit in the code is usually the number of zeros i.e 330 is 33 and 0 zero's making it 33pF  while 331 is 33 with 1 zero making it 330pF.  It works similar to resistance but is manufacturer dependent (some print the value and some print the code).  

Exactly and I should have expanded on it - thanks Mr Moose.

45 minutes ago, mr moose said:

 

 

Also my eyes are going so I mostly use my DMM to measure each component before using it.  That saves a lot of "why doesn't this $%@&% thing work" type moments when the red band looks like a brown one.

One DMM in the workshop, one in the caravan, one beside the computer in case there flat batteries to measure. I do have my mother's multi-meter but obviously, 30+ years ago, it was analog. An Avo 9 is useful in the workshop as a current meter. For capacitors, buy a digital capacity meter and it will have a better set of ranges than a DMM with a capacity range.

 

There is one thing not noted, a hammer. Use it? No, just threaten things with it is usually enough.

[mr moose]

1 hour ago, RollyShed said:

Exactly and I should have expanded on it - thanks Mr Moose.

One DMM in the workshop, one in the caravan, one beside the computer in case there flat batteries to measure. I do have my mother's multi-meter but obviously, 30+ years ago, it was analog.

My first experience with MM's was analog. By the time I could afford one though I could get a digital for the same price.  I was actually sad the analog options weren't better because it's all I wanted for such a long time.

 

 

1 hour ago, RollyShed said:

An Avo 9 is useful in the workshop as a current meter. For capacitors, buy a digital capacity meter and it will have a better set of ranges than a DMM with a capacity range.

 

For checking you have the right capacitance my DMM is fine.  I don't expect it to be highly accurate, but just accurate enough to know I haven't ballsed up the multiplier and putting in 1uF instead of a 100nF.

 

1 hour ago, RollyShed said:

There is one thing not noted, a hammer. Use it? No, just threaten things with it is usually enough.

If I take the above precautions I rarely have to threaten anything with a hammer,  sometimes I'll wave the iron at it in a menacing way. 

[Heats with Nvidia]

We were asking for the photo, because old capacitors usually just had their rating in pF printed on them, so it is a 330pF cap, and newer ones mostly use the 3-digit system. It actually depends on the type of capacitor.

 

I know the "brain to sludge" problem quite well. Because of this i try to make some systems idiot-prove, because i know, i might be that idiot when i am really tired or overworked.