New PC won't start up

[VelikiPCguy]

I've assembled all the parts and booted up my PC for the first time to see if everything works. The mobo, RAM, GPU, and CPU cooler all have flashing lights, and all the fans are spinning (the front two case fans are spinning, but the lights don't work, I'm assuming I got their LED cable connected wrong somewhere), but I'm not getting any signal on my monitor (which I've tested and know it works).

 

I've checked all of my connections and cables, everything seems fine. The mobo is showing "AE" which according to the manual means "Boot to Legacy OS" - not sure what the means exactly, but whatever it is I'm assuming I should be getting at least some input on my screen, even if it is something like "operating system missing" or whatever.

 

Also, just between the RAM and the GPU, there's a light which according to the mobo manual means "you haven't entered the operating system yet". The things which are NOT flashing (and thus means they're working fine, according to the mobo manual) are the CPU, DRAM, and VGA lights - I was a bit worried I had damaged the CPU and/or mobo around it as I (stupidly) dropped my phone which I was using for light while screwing in the CPU cooler, and it made the tiniest scratch on the mobo, and also since the CPU cooler pump uses the most inconvenient tightening mechanism possible and I found it quite hard to determine when to stop tightening, and the pump itself sits just the tiniest bit askew in relation to the CPU (visible in the picture below), but since the CPU light isn't flashing I'm assuming that's not the problem?

 

My components:

CPU: Ryzen 9 5950X

Mobo: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master

GPU: MSI RTX 3090 Suprim X

CPU Cooler: Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix 360mm

RAM: G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 32GB

SSD: Samsung 980 Pro 2tb

PSU: Corsair HX1200 80+ Platinum

 

 

[drdrewnatic]

19 minutes ago, NewwGuyy123 said:

I've assembled all the parts and booted up my PC for the first time to see if everything works. The mobo, RAM, GPU, and CPU cooler all have flashing lights, and all the fans are spinning (the front two case fans are spinning, but the lights don't work, I'm assuming I got their LED cable connected wrong somewhere), but I'm not getting any signal on my monitor (which I've tested and know it works).

 

I've checked all of my connections and cables, everything seems fine. The mobo is showing "AE" which according to the manual means "Boot to Legacy OS" - not sure what the means exactly, but whatever it is I'm assuming I should be getting at least some input on my screen, even if it is something like "operating system missing" or whatever.

 

Also, just between the RAM and the GPU, there's a light which according to the mobo manual means "you haven't entered the operating system yet". The things which are NOT flashing (and thus means they're working fine, according to the mobo manual) are the CPU, DRAM, and VGA lights - I was a bit worried I had damaged the CPU and/or mobo around it as I (stupidly) dropped my phone which I was using for light while screwing in the CPU cooler, and it made the tiniest scratch on the mobo, and also since the CPU cooler pump uses the most inconvenient tightening mechanism possible and I found it quite hard to determine when to stop tightening, and the pump itself sits just the tiniest bit askew in relation to the CPU, but since the CPU light isn't flashing I'm assuming that's not the problem?

 

I would appreciate any advice!

 

My components:

CPU: Ryzen 9 5950X

Mobo: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master

GPU: MSI RTX 3090 Suprim X

CPU Cooler: Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix 360mm

RAM: G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 32GB

SSD: Samsung 980 Pro 2tb

PSU: Corsair HX1200 80+ Platinum

 

 

 

Have you tried plugging into a different port on the GPU?

 

I know that you said that you tested all the cables and connections but just to confirm, you set the monitor to the correct input, right?

 

As far as the no RGB on the fans, have you made sure that they're connected properly on all ends? (on the fan controller and to the motherboard). Those RGB connectors have a tendency of getting loose and disconnecting.

 

Also suggest looking at the no POST thread for more things to check:

 

[VelikiPCguy]

5 minutes ago, drdrewnatic said:

Have you tried plugging into a different port on the GPU?

 

I know that you said that you tested all the cables and connections but just to confirm, you set the monitor to the correct input, right?

 

As far as the no RGB on the fans, have you made sure that they're connected properly on all ends? (on the fan controller and to the motherboard). Those RGB connectors have a tendency of getting loose and disconnecting.

 

Also suggest looking at the no POST thread for more things to check:

 

Yup I've tried several DP ports and the one HDMI port it has, still no signal in any of them. And yeah I set the monitor input correctly.

 

Not too worried about the case fan lights tbh, just mentioned it for completeness but I assume that's not the root cause of the issue here.

 

I've seen that post but, as far as I can tell, I've done all the steps it says to take.

 

Am I correct in thinking that since the CPU light isn't flashing, the CPU/mobo connection isn't damaged in any way?

[drdrewnatic]

2 minutes ago, NewwGuyy123 said:

Yup I've tried several DP ports and the one HDMI port it has, still no signal in any of them. And yeah I set the monitor input correctly.

 

Not too worried about the case fan lights tbh, just mentioned it for completeness but I assume that's not the root cause of the issue here.

 

I've seen that post but, as far as I can tell, I've done all the steps it says to take.

 

Am I correct in thinking that since the CPU light isn't flashing, the CPU/mobo connection isn't damaged in any way?

I am 99% sure you are correct.

 

So to confirm, you have done all 15 steps in the post exactly as suggested?

Quote

The machine does power up, but my screen remains black (no POST).

1. Make sure your BIOS version is compatible with the CPU generation you're trying to run in your motherboard, you can consult the manual or the manufacturer's website about this.
2. Check if EVERY power cable is connected. Auxiliary power connectors included.
3. Make sure the cable coming from your monitor is attached securely to the graphics card. Also make sure it is securely attached to the monitor itself.
4. Make sure your PSU is powerful enough to power your complete system.
5. Make sure your monitor works by testing it on a different computer.
6. If you have both a dedicated GPU and an iGPU, try your monitor on both the outputs on the graphics cards as well as on the motherboard.
7. Make sure all connectors and cables are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary.
8. Make sure your RAM, CPU and GPU are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary.
9. If the motherboard you're using has debug LEDs, check the error code and consult the motherboard manual to see what it means.
10. If you have a debug speaker connected to the motherboard, note the beep sequence and consult the motherboard manual or this thread to see what it means.
11. Try clearing your CMOS.
12. Try booting your computer with only a motherboard, CPU and one stick of RAM attached (if you don't have an iGPU, plug in your GPU as well ).
13. Make sure your GPU works (if you have a dedicated one), try it in another computer.
14. Make sure your RAM works, try it another computer.
15. Make sure the RAM is compatible with your CPU and your motherboard.

If that is the case, then you'll have to find someone else on the forum as I don't have enough knowledge to help you with that.

[VelikiPCguy]

32 minutes ago, drdrewnatic said:

I am 99% sure you are correct.

 

So to confirm, you have done all 15 steps in the post exactly as suggested?

If that is the case, then you'll have to find someone else on the forum as I don't have enough knowledge to help you with that.

1. Make sure your BIOS version is compatible with the CPU generation you're trying to run in your motherboard, you can consult the manual or the manufacturer's website about this.
   • My CPU is definitely compatible with my mobo, though PCPartPicker did tell me "Some AMD X570 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Vermeer CPUs. Upgrading the BIOS may require a different CPU that is supported by older BIOS revisions." Does that mean I should flash the BIOS onto my mobo as shown here? 
2. Check if EVERY power cable is connected. Auxiliary power connectors included.
   • The 24-pin, the 8-pin, and the 3 GPU ones are plugged in. What are auxiliary connectors?
3. Make sure the cable coming from your monitor is attached securely to the graphics card. Also make sure it is securely attached to the monitor itself.
   • Checked
4. Make sure your PSU is powerful enough to power your complete system.
   • Checked
5. Make sure your monitor works by testing it on a different computer.
   • Checked (on my laptop)
6. If you have both a dedicated GPU and an iGPU, try your monitor on both the outputs on the graphics cards as well as on the motherboard.
   • Only have GPU
7. Make sure all connectors and cables are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary.
   • Checked
8. Make sure your RAM, CPU and GPU are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary.
   • Checked (caveat being the worry about CPU/mobo potential damage, but you said that's 99% not the issue as the mobo light doesn't indicate it)
9. If the motherboard you're using has debug LEDs, check the error code and consult the motherboard manual to see what it means.
   • See above
10. If you have a debug speaker connected to the motherboard, note the beep sequence and consult the motherboard manual or this thread to see what it means.
    • What's a debug speaker? I don't think I have that
11. Try clearing your CMOS.
    • How do I do that? There's a CMOS button that's lit up on my mobo IO (picture above), but don't know what it means
12. Try booting your computer with only a motherboard, CPU and one stick of RAM attached (if you don't have an iGPU, plug in your GPU as well)
    • What about the CPU cooler, or the SSD, do I have to take those out? And why only one stick of RAM?
13. Make sure your GPU works (if you have a dedicated one), try it in another computer.
    • Don't have another computer to check this on
14. Make sure your RAM works, try it another computer.
    • Don't have another computer to check this on
15. Make sure the RAM is compatible with your CPU and your motherboard.
    • Checked

[drdrewnatic]

39 minutes ago, NewwGuyy123 said:

My CPU is definitely compatible with my mobo, though PCPartPicker did tell me "Some AMD X570 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Vermeer CPUs. Upgrading the BIOS may require a different CPU that is supported by older BIOS revisions." Does that mean I should flash the BIOS onto my mobo as shown here?

Your motherboard supports Ryzen 5000 series CPU's with BIOS version F30 or later. Granted, that version came out in September 2020 but it's possible that maybe your board shipped with an older version. That video is for MSI boards but it is pretty much the same process. Here is a video with your exact same board: 

 

43 minutes ago, NewwGuyy123 said:

What are auxiliary connectors?

GPU power cables.

 

43 minutes ago, NewwGuyy123 said:

What's a debug speaker? I don't think I have that

You don't. Some older motherboards and more business/server boards have a built in speaker that can play different beeps as a debug tool.

 

45 minutes ago, NewwGuyy123 said:

How do I do that? There's a CMOS button that's lit up on my mobo IO (picture above), but don't know what it means

Unplug your power supply. Push the clear CMOS button for around 5-10 seconds, then plug the system back in and turn it on.

 

47 minutes ago, NewwGuyy123 said:

What about the CPU cooler, or the SSD, do I have to take those out? And why only one stick of RAM?

You'll need your CPU cooler to cool the CPU as if there is nothing cooling it, it will get super hot which is not good. SSD is fine. You want to have as little components connected to the system to eliminate any external components causing issues. Using only one stick of RAM makes it so that there's less variables in your system.

 

I would try clearing the CMOS and if that doesn't work, updating your bios. Now, if there was an issue with the bios, it would probably show no CPU detected but it's worth a try. You could also try the one stick of RAM but I'm less confident that's the issue.

[VelikiPCguy]

17 hours ago, drdrewnatic said:

Your motherboard supports Ryzen 5000 series CPU's with BIOS version F30 or later. Granted, that version came out in September 2020 but it's possible that maybe your board shipped with an older version.

Is it possible to somehow check what BIOS my mobo has currently before flashing on a new one?

 

E.g. it has these two BIOS-related switches, should I do anything with them? (Manual instructions below)

 

 

[drdrewnatic]

1 hour ago, NewwGuyy123 said:

Is it possible to somehow check what BIOS my mobo has currently before flashing on a new one?

 

E.g. it has these two BIOS-related switches, should I do anything with them? (Manual instructions below)

 

 

Unfortunately not. It won't have the latest version though so you'll still be updating it. When I look on the Gigabyte website, the latest BIOS version for your board is F36b. Now, I don't really know how Gigabyte BIOS naming goes, but to me that sounds like b for beta. It could also be a minor revision to the existing BIOS and did not deserve a new name. I really couldn't tell as I don't own a Gigabyte board. I think that Gigabyte would make it more clear if it was a beta BIOS or not so I think you should be fine but just keep that in mind.

 

I don't think you have to do anything with those switches. However it came in the box is probably the best.

 

Did you try to reset the CMOS?

 

I can completely understand that you might be a bit nervous troubleshooting this considering the cost you spent on all these parts. When I built my first PC, I didn't seat one of the ram sticks correctly and it wasn't connected. I was freaking out that I broke either the board or the stick. Fortunately everything worked out in the end. I guess what I'm trying to say is that I know how anxious you must feel and I'll try my best to help.

[VelikiPCguy]

1 hour ago, drdrewnatic said:

Unfortunately not. It won't have the latest version though so you'll still be updating it. When I look on the Gigabyte website, the latest BIOS version for your board is F36b. Now, I don't really know how Gigabyte BIOS naming goes, but to me that sounds like b for beta. It could also be a minor revision to the existing BIOS and did not deserve a new name. I really couldn't tell as I don't own a Gigabyte board. I think that Gigabyte would make it more clear if it was a beta BIOS or not so I think you should be fine but just keep that in mind.

 

I don't think you have to do anything with those switches. However it came in the box is probably the best.

 

Did you try to reset the CMOS?

 

I can completely understand that you might be a bit nervous troubleshooting this considering the cost you spent on all these parts. When I built my first PC, I didn't seat one of the ram sticks correctly and it wasn't connected. I was freaking out that I broke either the board or the stick. Fortunately everything worked out in the end. I guess what I'm trying to say is that I know how anxious you must feel and I'll try my best to help.

 

Thanks so much for the help and vote of confidence so far! After resetting the CMOS I wasn't getting any error lights flashing in my mobo anymore, and I got this message on screen:

 

 

So does that mean it's time to install Windows via a USB now, all the components are definitely working properly?

 

The CMOS button is still alight at the back of the case, but I'm guessing I can ignore it now?

 

And should I even bother with flashing on a new BIOS?

[drdrewnatic]

13 minutes ago, NewwGuyy123 said:

 

Thanks so much for the help and vote of confidence so far! After resetting the CMOS I wasn't getting any error lights flashing in my mobo anymore, and I got this message on screen:

 

 

So does that mean it's time to install Windows via a USB now, all the components are definitely working properly?

 

The CMOS button is still alight at the back of the case, but I'm guessing I can ignore it now?

 

And should I even bother with flashing on a new BIOS?

That's great! The CMOS button on my motherboard is always lit up so there's nothing to worry about. There really is no need to update the BIOS at this time.

 

Did you get a Gigabyte Aorus logo or American Megatrends boot screen when you turned it on, or did it just go straight to that screen? Something similar to this:

 

You'd probably want to go into the BIOS before installing Windows just to make sure that everything is detected. As soon as you turn on the system, start repeatedly pressing the delete key on your keyboard and see if that gets you into the BIOS.

[VelikiPCguy]

11 minutes ago, drdrewnatic said:

That's great! The CMOS button on my motherboard is always lit up so there's nothing to worry about. There really is no need to update the BIOS at this time.

 

Did you get a Gigabyte Aorus logo or American Megatrends boot screen when you turned it on, or did it just go straight to that screen? Something similar to this:

 

You'd probably want to go into the BIOS before installing Windows just to make sure that everything is detected. As soon as you turn on the system, start repeatedly pressing the delete key on your keyboard and see if that gets you into the BIOS.

Yes I briefly got an Aorus logo (the eagle) and then it went straight to the screen above. I also just went into the BIOS, and (correct me if I'm wrong) everything seems to be detected here - mobo, CPU, RAM, SSD, and GPU is there under PCIE

[drdrewnatic]

2 minutes ago, NewwGuyy123 said:

Yes I briefly got an Aorus logo (the eagle) and then it went straight to the screen above. I also just went into the BIOS, and (correct me if I'm wrong) everything seems to be detected here - mobo, CPU, RAM, SSD, and GPU is there under PCIE

Yes, everything looks normal. Temps are fine. Do you plan on installing Windows 10 or 11? I ask that because if you plan to install 11, you'll need to enable AMD fTPM. I can guide you through it.

 

We'll enable XMP after we install Windows, keeps it more stable during the install process.

[VelikiPCguy]

4 minutes ago, drdrewnatic said:

Yes, everything looks normal. Temps are fine. Do you plan on installing Windows 10 or 11? I ask that because if you plan to install 11, you'll need to enable AMD fTPM. I can guide you through it.

 

We'll enable XMP after we install Windows, keeps it more stable during the install process.

Whew, that's good to know! Silly question but I'm assuming it doesn't have to detect the PSU and CPU cooler in the BIOS then?

 

Ok, so Windows installation is the next step. I'll have a look online (though I have a general idea of how it works), but any tips / must-knows / nice-to-knows for this part of the process?

 

I'm currently leaning more towards Windows 10 just because that's what I've been using so far and 11 still seems like a relatively new product thus might have some kinks to iron out, but I'm open to changing my mind if you think 11 is better overall. I'll primarily be using this PC for gaming, maybe some light work as well but I have my work laptop for that so probs not that much / if at all.

[drdrewnatic]

2 hours ago, NewwGuyy123 said:

Whew, that's good to know! Silly question but I'm assuming it doesn't have to detect the PSU and CPU cooler in the BIOS then?

 

Ok, so Windows installation is the next step. I'll have a look online (though I have a general idea of how it works), but any tips / must-knows / nice-to-knows for this part of the process?

 

I'm currently leaning more towards Windows 10 just because that's what I've been using so far and 11 still seems like a relatively new product thus might have some kinks to iron out, but I'm open to changing my mind if you think 11 is better overall. I'll primarily be using this PC for gaming, maybe some light work as well but I have my work laptop for that so probs not that much / if at all.

No, BIOS doesn't detect PSU or CPU cooler.

 

As far as tips go, the motherboard should boot to the USB automatically as there's nothing else to boot from but if it doesn't, you can change the boot order in the boot sequence section in the BIOS to tell it to boot to the USB first.

 

Make sure that your plugging in your USB drive into a plug that is the same rated speed (2.0 or 3.0) as the drive itself. When I was installing Windows on my first PC, I had a USB 2.0 drive and plugged it into a 3.0 port. When I tried to install it, I got this error. After plugging the drive into a USB 2.0 port, everything worked fine. If you don't know what your USB drive is rated for, just plug it into a port and see what happens.

 

2 hours ago, NewwGuyy123 said:

I'm currently leaning more towards Windows 10 just because that's what I've been using so far and 11 still seems like a relatively new product thus might have some kinks to iron out, but I'm open to changing my mind if you think 11 is better overall. I'll primarily be using this PC for gaming, maybe some light work as well but I have my work laptop for that so probs not that much / if at all.

If your thinking about 10, go 10. Most of the major issues with 11 have been sorted out but I've heard a couple people still having some issues. You can always upgrade later and your Windows 10 product key will also work on Windows 11 without any issue.

 

Here's is a video from JaysTwoCents on what the steps to do after building your computer. His BIOS is slightly different and he changes a couple settings in Nvidia Control Panel but for the most part it's quite informative:

[VelikiPCguy]

On 3/2/2022 at 3:35 AM, drdrewnatic said:

No, BIOS doesn't detect PSU or CPU cooler.

 

As far as tips go, the motherboard should boot to the USB automatically as there's nothing else to boot from but if it doesn't, you can change the boot order in the boot sequence section in the BIOS to tell it to boot to the USB first.

 

Make sure that your plugging in your USB drive into a plug that is the same rated speed (2.0 or 3.0) as the drive itself. When I was installing Windows on my first PC, I had a USB 2.0 drive and plugged it into a 3.0 port. When I tried to install it, I got this error. After plugging the drive into a USB 2.0 port, everything worked fine. If you don't know what your USB drive is rated for, just plug it into a port and see what happens.

 

If your thinking about 10, go 10. Most of the major issues with 11 have been sorted out but I've heard a couple people still having some issues. You can always upgrade later and your Windows 10 product key will also work on Windows 11 without any issue.

 

Here's is a video from JaysTwoCents on what the steps to do after building your computer. His BIOS is slightly different and he changes a couple settings in Nvidia Control Panel but for the most part it's quite informative:

Ok so I've gone through the whole process and successfully installed Windows 10. However I connected to my Wifi when it asked me so it automatically logged me into my existing Microsoft account and connected it to how my laptop looks like (e.g. it has the same desktop background atm), which is something Jayz explicitly said not to do (oops...).

 

So if I wanna redo the process, if I install Windows 10 again from the same USB, will it delete everything from the previous installation, and will I have the option NOT to connect to the internet and create a new Windows user account?

 

AND since it's already synced to my laptop now, will that in any way be putting at risk the data on my laptop?

[drdrewnatic]

2 minutes ago, NewwGuyy123 said:

Ok so I've gone through the whole process and successfully installed Windows 10. However I connected to my Wifi when it asked me so it automatically logged me into my existing Microsoft account and connected it to how laptop looks like (e.g. it has the same desktop background atm), which is something Jayz explicitly said not to do (oops...).

 

So if I wanna redo the process, if I install Windows 10 again from the same USB, will it delete everything from the previous installation, and will I have the option NOT to connect to the internet and create a new account?

 

AND since it's already synced to my laptop now, will that in any way be putting at risk the data on my laptop?

Tbh, most people will probably want a Microsoft account. The only major downside to having it is your data being collected to Microsoft. Now, there are ways to limit this as much as possible but it's still there. The main reason I use a Microsoft account is that my product key is linked to my account so anytime I upgrade or get a new PC, I can just migrate the license to the new system. I'll let you do your own research.

 

If you want to have a local account instead, you don't have to reinstall Windows. Just go to Settings -> Accounts and click on "Sign in with a local account instead." Once you do that, nothing will be synced and you will have a completely offline account.

[VelikiPCguy]

19 minutes ago, drdrewnatic said:

Tbh, most people will probably want a Microsoft account. The only major downside to having it is your data being collected to Microsoft. Now, there are ways to limit this as much as possible but it's still there. The main reason I use a Microsoft account is that my product key is linked to my account so anytime I upgrade or get a new PC, I can just migrate the license to the new system. I'll let you do your own research.

 

If you want to have a local account instead, you don't have to reinstall Windows. Just go to Settings -> Accounts and click on "Sign in with a local account instead." Once you do that, nothing will be synced and you will have a completely offline account.

Oh I see, ok I'll just try to do that then. But just for my own sake, would reinstalling everything potentially wipe my laptop as well, since they're connected to the same Microsoft account?

[drdrewnatic]

4 minutes ago, NewwGuyy123 said:

Oh I see, ok I'll just try to do that then. But just for my own sake, would reinstalling everything potentially wipe my laptop as well, since they're connected to the same Microsoft account?

If you have everything saved to OneDrive, all your data is stored in the cloud and reinstalling Windows wouldn't delete anything in the cloud. If you store your files locally, your Microsoft account can't touch that.

 

I mean, you should be backing up your data anyway. But if reinstalling Windows on one computer wiped both computers, I'd think that there would be more outrage at what a tremendous flaw that would be.

 

Also congratulations on successfully building a PC! You can finally change your username from 'NewwGuyy123' to 'SlightlyMoreExperiencedGuy123'!

[VelikiPCguy]

14 hours ago, drdrewnatic said:

If you have everything saved to OneDrive, all your data is stored in the cloud and reinstalling Windows wouldn't delete anything in the cloud. If you store your files locally, your Microsoft account can't touch that.

 

I mean, you should be backing up your data anyway. But if reinstalling Windows on one computer wiped both computers, I'd think that there would be more outrage at what a tremendous flaw that would be.

Yeah no everything's saved to OneDrive, and I've saved it on Google Drive as well, I've definitely gotten into the habit of backing up my data.

 

So what would happen if I plugged in the USB with the Windows installation tool and booted my PC from it again? Would it delete everything from the previous one? This video says (at 1:55) that doing that will "ensure nothing from the previous Windows installation gets carried through" - so does that mean that doing it via the "Reset this PC" option under Settings instead of with the USB WOULD carry some things through?

 

14 hours ago, drdrewnatic said:

Also congratulations on successfully building a PC! You can finally change your username from 'NewwGuyy123' to 'SlightlyMoreExperiencedGuy123'!

Haha thanks, yeah I guess I can become the advice-giver to new builders now!

[drdrewnatic]

4 hours ago, NewwGuyy123 said:

Yeah no everything's saved to OneDrive, and I've saved it on Google Drive as well, I've definitely gotten into the habit of backing up my data.

 

So what would happen if I plugged in the USB with the Windows installation tool and booted my PC from it again? Would it delete everything from the previous one? This video says (at 1:55) that doing that will "ensure nothing from the previous Windows installation gets carried through" - so does that mean that doing it via the "Reset this PC" option under Settings instead of with the USB WOULD carry some things through?

 

Haha thanks, yeah I guess I can become the advice-giver to new builders now!

Reset this PC only re-installs the Windows files. The advantage is that all your programs and files stay saved.

 

If you were to do a custom install from the USB, that would completely re-format your entire disk. Windows files, programs, files, etc. Why would you want to do a complete re-install? You just installed a fresh copy. Why would you want to do it again?

[VelikiPCguy]

19 hours ago, drdrewnatic said:

Reset this PC only re-installs the Windows files. The advantage is that all your programs and files stay saved.

 

If you were to do a custom install from the USB, that would completely re-format your entire disk. Windows files, programs, files, etc. Why would you want to do a complete re-install? You just installed a fresh copy. Why would you want to do it again?

Well I initially connected it to my Microsoft account but I changed my mind since I don't want them spying on me / being on my PC in any way  so I ended up redoing the entire OS, correctly this time, and now I've just got a regular Windows account

 

But anywho it all seems to be working now, so I just want to say thank you so much again for the help in this admittedly stressful endeavour, this forum is a godsend!