Jump to content

Fan issue?

Vectraat

So, I had been playing Classic World of Warcraft pretty often over the past year and a half. Logged in yesterday after a month and a half of inactivity and noticed what appears to be a front case fan revving up, going quiet then revving up again and this happens often! I'd assume this means that one of the fans is shot and should be replaced? I haven't yet tried out any other games in an attempt to reproduce this issue, but I imagine when my PC is under heavy load (gaming) that for whatever reason It's likely this fan will rev up. I do not notice this behavior at all when I'm outside of the game doing whatever. I've attached a video so you can hear the revving behavior twice. Thoughts?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XBtpAwifey8G-v5fLbQss1czPALeaYxM/view?usp=sharing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Check your temperatures. Fans automatically adjust their RPM to counter the heat that your system is generating.

Use this: HWiNFO64

[Main Desktop]

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X  GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 Ti (FTW3 Ultra)  MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon (X470)  RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V DDR4-3600 CL16 (2x8GB)

COOLER: Arctic LiquidFreezer II 280 STORAGE: G.SKILL Phoenix FTL 240GB SSD, Crucial MX500 1TB SSD, Toshiba 2TB HDD, Seagate 4TB HDD

PSU: EVGA GQ-1000W 80+ Gold  CASE: The MESHMOD v1.0 (Custom Deepcool Matrexx 70 chassis)  MONITOR: AOC 24G2 144Hz (IPS) 

MOUSE: Logitech G502 HERO (wired)  KEYBOARD: Rosewill K81 RGB (Kailh Brown)  HEADPHONES: HiFiMan Ananda, Drop x Sennheiser HD6XX

IEMS: 7Hz Timeless, Tin Audio T2, Blon BL-03, Samsung/AKG Galaxy Buds Pro  STUDIO MONITORS: Mackie MR524, Mackie MRS10  MIC: NEAT Worker Bee  

INTERFACE: Focusrite Scarlett Solo  AMPLIFIER: SMSL SP200 THX AAA-888, XDUOO XD-05 Basic  DAC: SMSL Sanskrit 10th MKII (upgraded AK4493 Version)

WHEEL: Logitech G29 + Logitech G Shifter

 

[Stream Encoder]

CPU: AMD FX-9590  GPU: Sapphire R9 390X (Tri-X OC)  MOBO: ASUS Sabertooth R2.0 (AM3+)  RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X DDR3-1866 (2x8GB)

COOLER: EVGA CLC 280 PSU: MSI A750GF 80+ Gold CASE: Phanteks P400A Digital

 

[Garage]

CAR: 2003 Honda Civic Coupe LX (EM2)  ENGINE: D17A1, planned K20A2 swap  INTAKE: DIY Solutions Short RAM  HEADERS: Motor1 4-2-1 with Cat-Delete

EXHAUST: Yonaka 2.5" Cat-Back with 3.5" tip (YMCB-CIV0105)  COILOVERS: MaXpeedingrods adjustable  RIMS: Core Racing Concept Seven Alloys (15x6.5)

RECEIVER: Kenwood DPX304MBT  SOUND DEADENING: Damplifier Pro Deadening Mats  SOUND DAMPENING: Custom solution, layers of thick insulation

DOOR SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-P710PS 6.5" Components  WINDOW LEDGE SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-6996PS 6x9" 5-Ways

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, OfficialTechSpace said:

Check your temperatures. Fans automatically adjust their RPM to counter the heat that your system is generating.

Use this: HWiNFO64

Is this what you're looking for?
Temps.png.92054426986ec81aae4546ea2f3e8711.png
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Vectraat said:

Is this what you're looking for?
Temps.png.92054426986ec81aae4546ea2f3e8711.png
 

Sorry, I should've been more specific. When you launch HWiNFO64, make sure this is what's selected. The other one just shows us your systems specs 🙂

Capture.PNG.1131ceca1354f8e986f2d6a97c3de1dc.PNG

[Main Desktop]

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X  GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 Ti (FTW3 Ultra)  MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon (X470)  RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V DDR4-3600 CL16 (2x8GB)

COOLER: Arctic LiquidFreezer II 280 STORAGE: G.SKILL Phoenix FTL 240GB SSD, Crucial MX500 1TB SSD, Toshiba 2TB HDD, Seagate 4TB HDD

PSU: EVGA GQ-1000W 80+ Gold  CASE: The MESHMOD v1.0 (Custom Deepcool Matrexx 70 chassis)  MONITOR: AOC 24G2 144Hz (IPS) 

MOUSE: Logitech G502 HERO (wired)  KEYBOARD: Rosewill K81 RGB (Kailh Brown)  HEADPHONES: HiFiMan Ananda, Drop x Sennheiser HD6XX

IEMS: 7Hz Timeless, Tin Audio T2, Blon BL-03, Samsung/AKG Galaxy Buds Pro  STUDIO MONITORS: Mackie MR524, Mackie MRS10  MIC: NEAT Worker Bee  

INTERFACE: Focusrite Scarlett Solo  AMPLIFIER: SMSL SP200 THX AAA-888, XDUOO XD-05 Basic  DAC: SMSL Sanskrit 10th MKII (upgraded AK4493 Version)

WHEEL: Logitech G29 + Logitech G Shifter

 

[Stream Encoder]

CPU: AMD FX-9590  GPU: Sapphire R9 390X (Tri-X OC)  MOBO: ASUS Sabertooth R2.0 (AM3+)  RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X DDR3-1866 (2x8GB)

COOLER: EVGA CLC 280 PSU: MSI A750GF 80+ Gold CASE: Phanteks P400A Digital

 

[Garage]

CAR: 2003 Honda Civic Coupe LX (EM2)  ENGINE: D17A1, planned K20A2 swap  INTAKE: DIY Solutions Short RAM  HEADERS: Motor1 4-2-1 with Cat-Delete

EXHAUST: Yonaka 2.5" Cat-Back with 3.5" tip (YMCB-CIV0105)  COILOVERS: MaXpeedingrods adjustable  RIMS: Core Racing Concept Seven Alloys (15x6.5)

RECEIVER: Kenwood DPX304MBT  SOUND DEADENING: Damplifier Pro Deadening Mats  SOUND DAMPENING: Custom solution, layers of thick insulation

DOOR SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-P710PS 6.5" Components  WINDOW LEDGE SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-6996PS 6x9" 5-Ways

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, OfficialTechSpace said:

Sorry, I should've been more specific. When you launch HWiNFO64, make sure this is what's selected. The other one just shows us your systems specs 🙂

Capture.PNG.1131ceca1354f8e986f2d6a97c3de1dc.PNG

Didn't have the game open very long. Tabbed and took a screen shot of HWiNFO when I noticed the fan noise. 1668253161_FanTempIssue.thumb.png.77a9dd2cc282e6797ec7c3f6bf654dbb.png 
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Vectraat said:

Didn't have the game open very long. Tabbed and took a screen shot of HWiNFO when I noticed the fan noise. 

temps look good, but if you could post a pic of the motherboard temps as well, that may help. it may be going off of a mobo temp sensor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Welp, as far as I can tell, your thermals on the CPU seem to be perfectly fine. 🙂

It peaked at 46°C after you ran the game, which is actually very good.

4 minutes ago, bmx6454 said:

post a pic of the motherboard temps as well, that may help. it may be going off of a mobo temp sensor.

I agree with this. As far as I can tell, everything else is fine. This might help. 👍

[Main Desktop]

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X  GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 Ti (FTW3 Ultra)  MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon (X470)  RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V DDR4-3600 CL16 (2x8GB)

COOLER: Arctic LiquidFreezer II 280 STORAGE: G.SKILL Phoenix FTL 240GB SSD, Crucial MX500 1TB SSD, Toshiba 2TB HDD, Seagate 4TB HDD

PSU: EVGA GQ-1000W 80+ Gold  CASE: The MESHMOD v1.0 (Custom Deepcool Matrexx 70 chassis)  MONITOR: AOC 24G2 144Hz (IPS) 

MOUSE: Logitech G502 HERO (wired)  KEYBOARD: Rosewill K81 RGB (Kailh Brown)  HEADPHONES: HiFiMan Ananda, Drop x Sennheiser HD6XX

IEMS: 7Hz Timeless, Tin Audio T2, Blon BL-03, Samsung/AKG Galaxy Buds Pro  STUDIO MONITORS: Mackie MR524, Mackie MRS10  MIC: NEAT Worker Bee  

INTERFACE: Focusrite Scarlett Solo  AMPLIFIER: SMSL SP200 THX AAA-888, XDUOO XD-05 Basic  DAC: SMSL Sanskrit 10th MKII (upgraded AK4493 Version)

WHEEL: Logitech G29 + Logitech G Shifter

 

[Stream Encoder]

CPU: AMD FX-9590  GPU: Sapphire R9 390X (Tri-X OC)  MOBO: ASUS Sabertooth R2.0 (AM3+)  RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X DDR3-1866 (2x8GB)

COOLER: EVGA CLC 280 PSU: MSI A750GF 80+ Gold CASE: Phanteks P400A Digital

 

[Garage]

CAR: 2003 Honda Civic Coupe LX (EM2)  ENGINE: D17A1, planned K20A2 swap  INTAKE: DIY Solutions Short RAM  HEADERS: Motor1 4-2-1 with Cat-Delete

EXHAUST: Yonaka 2.5" Cat-Back with 3.5" tip (YMCB-CIV0105)  COILOVERS: MaXpeedingrods adjustable  RIMS: Core Racing Concept Seven Alloys (15x6.5)

RECEIVER: Kenwood DPX304MBT  SOUND DEADENING: Damplifier Pro Deadening Mats  SOUND DAMPENING: Custom solution, layers of thick insulation

DOOR SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-P710PS 6.5" Components  WINDOW LEDGE SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-6996PS 6x9" 5-Ways

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Could be a bad fan, could be your psu.  What are the specs? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, bmx6454 said:

temps look good, but if you could post a pic of the motherboard temps as well, that may help. it may be going off of a mobo temp sensor.

MB Temps on the right. 

MB temps.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

So, what do you guys think the problem is? Should I just hit up Fractal Design for a new fan? If it was a fan issue, wouldn't it be present outside of gaming as well? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, Vectraat said:

MB Temps on the right. 

they look good as well. you might want to set a custom fan curve to see if you can get the fan running how you want. there are plenty of programs that can be used for that, or your bios probably has the ability to do a curve as well. msi afterburner can do fan curves, but imo bios is better. if it still acts up after setting a custom curve, then it is probably faulty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, bmx6454 said:

they look good as well. you might want to set a custom fan curve to see if you can get the fan running how you want. there are plenty of programs that can be used for that, or your bios probably has the ability to do a curve as well. msi afterburner can do fan curves, but imo bios is better. if it still acts up after setting a custom curve, then it is probably faulty.

Hmm, not sure how comfortable I'd feel about doing that. By "custom fan curve" you're talking about trying to get the fan to throttle down or something? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, Vectraat said:

Hmm, not sure how comfortable I'd feel about doing that. By "custom fan curve" you're talking about trying to get the fan to throttle down or something? 

yes, you would be adjusting what rpm each fan(or all of them) will be at depending on what temperature the given sensor is reading. it isn't something i would consider risky,  worst case scenario you can always clear the cmos to undo the custom curve, which you shouldn't have to do. no warranties are voided by doing this either. not 100% sure which bios you have, but it should look something like this:

dxEHamH.jpg

 

there are a million videos that can be found on youtube to walk you through it as well.

 

edit: should mention that this can require a fair amount of patience as it may take a number of tries to get it fine tuned how you want it, but once it's set, your good to go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×