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Bykski CPU Block problem

Hi All,

 

After much reading here, I decided to order a custom soft tube kit from Byski. Due to the shortage, I just took the advice from the seller regarding the items. after completion, GPU temp is good but CPU temp is horrendous. Photos below:

 

I think the CPU block is not making good contact with the 10850k. On cinebench, it is going to 100C. 

 

2nd Question: for the GPU which is an RTX 3080 Reference design, there is not mention to put thermal pads on the black squares next to the round capacitors. whereas on the stock cooler, there were thermal pads there. Will this be a problem down the line? Via HWinfo64, GPU, hotspot and memory junction temperatures are very good at 52, 60, 62C respectively. 

 

For now, due to the CPU block problem, I had configure the loop to be GPU only and CPU is being cooled by the old trusted Kraken X63. Is this something doable of have i become crazy? 

 

 

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Inlet and Outlet were correct on the CPU block? Inlet is through the jet plate (bottom port). GPU blocks are less sensitive in this regard, CPU blocks however are very sensitive and performance can tank.

 

Thermal paste spread looks pretty messy especially on the GPU (How much did you use?!). The CPU looks very thick. That could be a sign of bad to no contact. Are you sure the CPU block does not collide with any component? It's very big and there are enough components around to collide with preventing the block from making proper contact (even the most left memory slot is apparently partly covered by the block).

 

The black "blocks" are the chokes aka coils. They can get warm but usually not to a point at which they'd need massive cooling. You could try and repurpose the thermal pads from the stock cooler but if it's too thick you might warp the PCB  slightly preventing the mosfets behind the chokes from making proper contact - those need cooling.

 

P.S.: The batter water is definitely distilled water and not something else? A while ago someone accidently had an accidic solution as battery water.

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1 hour ago, bowrilla said:

Inlet and Outlet were correct on the CPU block? Inlet is through the jet plate (bottom port). GPU blocks are less sensitive in this regard, CPU blocks however are very sensitive and performance can tank.

 

Thermal paste spread looks pretty messy especially on the GPU (How much did you use?!). The CPU looks very thick. That could be a sign of bad to no contact. Are you sure the CPU block does not collide with any component? It's very big and there are enough components around to collide with preventing the block from making proper contact (even the most left memory slot is apparently partly covered by the block).

 

The black "blocks" are the chokes aka coils. They can get warm but usually not to a point at which they'd need massive cooling. You could try and repurpose the thermal pads from the stock cooler but if it's too thick you might warp the PCB  slightly preventing the mosfets behind the chokes from making proper contact - those need cooling.

 

P.S.: The batter water is definitely distilled water and not something else? A while ago someone accidently had an accidic solution as battery water.

Thank you @bowrillafor the response. I'm going to reply in bullet points if you dont mind:

 

1. CPU Block: in the end the block [indeed clashed with the rear VRM heatsink. No choice but to RMA it

2.   GPU: thank you for the assurance. I tried putting the original thermal pads from the air cooler but upon tightening up the board, it flexed. So I removed them and the board sits flat

3. The bottle is just that; a battery water bottle that was emptied and flushed and inside was the premix that came with the kit. In all the hoopla, I forgot to buy a filler bottle and this one is the best thing

 

4. Question: now that the CPU is being cooled by the Kraken AiO, will it worth the hassle to replace with the CPU block that being exchanged? I still have a 280mm rad that i can't use to obvious reason. 

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1 hour ago, Imannudein said:

1. CPU Block: in the end the block [indeed clashed with the rear VRM heatsink. No choice but to RMA it

Well, you could remove the heatsink and modify it with an angle grinder/dremel ... if your dare. But this blocks seems to be poorly designed ignoring compatibility aspects. Usually those blocks are a lot smaller. I guess they tried to fill the whole area as much as possible and ignored keeping some clearance buffer.

1 hour ago, Imannudein said:

2.   GPU: thank you for the assurance. I tried putting the original thermal pads from the air cooler but upon tightening up the board, it flexed. So I removed them and the board sits flat

It'll be fine.

1 hour ago, Imannudein said:

3. The bottle is just that; a battery water bottle that was emptied and flushed and inside was the premix that came with the kit. In all the hoopla, I forgot to buy a filler bottle and this one is the best thing

👍

1 hour ago, Imannudein said:

4. Question: now that the CPU is being cooled by the Kraken AiO, will it worth the hassle to replace with the CPU block that being exchanged? I still have a 280mm rad that i can't use to obvious reason. 

Well, CPU temps will probably drop noticeably but I wouldn't expect like massive gains here. The biggest effect would probably less noise as long as your fans are good. I would definitely add it just to have less clutter and a more tidy setup. A 280mm radiator in a custom loop is good (>90% the surface of a 360mm radiator), sure, 2x280mm would be great but not necessary.

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holy thermal paste overload batman!!

Did you use a whole tube on each block? Damn

just make an X across the chip that is not very thick/wide make the X go damn near all the way from corner to corner.

From your pics that massive amount of paste looks like it was creating a gap between the cooler and the chip which would cause your temp issues easily.

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59 minutes ago, airborne spoon said:

holy thermal paste overload batman!!

Did you use a whole tube on each block? Damn

just make an X across the chip that is not very thick/wide make the X go damn near all the way from corner to corner.

From your pics that massive amount of paste looks like it was creating a gap between the cooler and the chip which would cause your temp issues easily.

Guess who's no longer be buying Cooler Master Master Gel Maker? This guy. I ran out of MX4 and had to use the CM with the weird syringe shape. All good now as upon switching to the Kraken, I put a brown rice size of thermal paste. 

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Thank you @bowrilla for your swift response. I'm enjoying the lower GPU temp now. I'll think about redoing the loop once the new CPU block arrived. 

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7 hours ago, airborne spoon said:

From your pics that massive amount of paste looks like it was creating a gap between the cooler and the chip which would cause your temp issues easily.

This basically does never happen. All you get from too much thermal paste is a mess but not higher temps. The excess will just squeeze out. It's paste and not a solid after all and cooler mounts to create some noticeable pressure.

 

Too much thermal paste does not give you higher temps.

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2 hours ago, bowrilla said:

This basically does never happen. All you get from too much thermal paste is a mess but not higher temps. The excess will just squeeze out. It's paste and not a solid after all and cooler mounts to create some noticeable pressure.

 

Too much thermal paste does not give you higher temps.

Yes and no, if the user puts a buttload of paste down and doesn't tighten the block very much or if an air bubble forms and makes it feel like it's tighter than it is an heat problem could occur.

I mean look at those pics, there is no way it was tightened down properly with all that crap on the chips. If it was fully tightened all that extra crap would be on the sides not the chips.

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3 hours ago, airborne spoon said:

Yes and no, if the user puts a buttload of paste down and doesn't tighten the block very much or if an air bubble forms and makes it feel like it's tighter than it is an heat problem could occur.

I mean look at those pics, there is no way it was tightened down properly with all that crap on the chips. If it was fully tightened all that extra crap would be on the sides not the chips.

You're right. I just couldn't get a proper contact from the block on account of it being too big. 

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5 hours ago, airborne spoon said:

doesn't tighten the block very much

So not mounting it correctly.

5 hours ago, airborne spoon said:

or if an air bubble forms and makes it feel like it's tighter than it is

viscosity is way too low for this.

 

5 hours ago, airborne spoon said:

there is no way it was tightened down properly with all that crap on the chips

Which was already figured out: block made contact with VRM heatsink.

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@bowrillaThe seller refunded me and I bough a simple ThermalTake Pacific W3. It is now done. CPU temp remain the same as with the Kraken if not a couple degree hotter. 

 

 

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