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Help finding replacement cap for 2600xt

Helpful Tech Witch

I found that my 2600xt does still function, despite the disconnected capacitor. But I rather have.... All..... Of my vrms before sticking it in my main PC and ovetclocking it 

That cap reads

8E

OCR

470

16v

I'm not that familiar with electronics, and basically have only fixed a USB drive with a soldering iron before, so I don't know any of what that means, besides the 16v, which is obviously a 16 volt cap. 

What do I need to replace it?

I could use some help with this!

please, pm me if you would like to contribute to my gpu bios database (includes overclocking bios, stock bios, and upgrades to gpus via modding)

Bios database

My beautiful, but not that powerful, main PC:

prior build:

Spoiler

 

 

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16 minutes ago, HelpfulTechWizard said:

What do I need to replace it?

I dunno what the 8E means. Maybe ESR-rating or something? Anyways, the 470 and 16V mean it's a 470uF, 16V cap.

Hand, n. A singular instrument worn at the end of the human arm and commonly thrust into somebody’s pocket.

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11 minutes ago, The_russian said:

Can you post a picture of the board and a close-up of the cap?

Yeah, here

image.jpg

I could use some help with this!

please, pm me if you would like to contribute to my gpu bios database (includes overclocking bios, stock bios, and upgrades to gpus via modding)

Bios database

My beautiful, but not that powerful, main PC:

prior build:

Spoiler

 

 

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@HelpfulTechWizard I *think* I found the capacitors. I am by no means an electronics expert, but as far as I can tell one of these should be the correct one. Like WereCatf already said the 470 means 470uF and 16v means 16 volts, I was also able to find that OCR is a series of capacitors made by the manufacturer Lelon and that 8E is the date code, it was manufactured May 2008 in Suzhou. 

 

I'll start with the not as important part, in case you are interested or want to double check my info, I got the info about the markings on the capacitor from the 3rd and 4th pages of this PDF: 

http://static6.arrow.com/aropdfconversion/bf949bc47b5b257fc8a5b586cf753bcf1965f68e/orz471m1csa-08127s.pdf

 

 

Onto what capacitor I think that is. I found 2 part numbers that could match the one in your picture, I don't think it's possible to tell which one you have without measuring:

 

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lelon/ORZ471M1CBK-0812/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsh%2B1woXyUXj%2BeqeDg%2Fwfws%2FJXzralvsAA%3D

 

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lelon/ORZ471M1CBK-1012/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsh%2B1woXyUXj%2BeqeDg%2FwfwsgKCX%2FY4n7RI%3D

 

The differences: The capacitor in the first link has a diameter of 8mm, length of 12mm, and lead spacing (distance between pins/leads) of 3.5mm. The one in the second link has diameter of 10mm, length of 12.5mm, and lead spacing of 5mm. 

 

Notes:

  • The links are just what I used to find the capacitors (Mouser), you might be able to find them elsewhere (Digi-Key, eBay, etc.) for a better price. 
  • You can use a different capacitor with the same specs, it doesn't have to be the same exact ones you already have, I just liked the challenge of finding the exact ones. 
  • The product pictures aren't going to match your specs, Mouser (and likely Digi-Key) reuse the same image for similar products, it's not feasible to use a picture of every specific combination of capacitance, voltage, and manufacture date.
  • Like I stated in the beginning I am by no means an electronics expert, so it would be a good idea to confirm with someone else what I said and found was accurate. 

 

Let me know if you have any questions or need more info. 

 

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Since you mention that you havent done this before you probably dont have the tools either I guess (such as good solder, soldering iron etc) so it will be much wiser to buy a working/used one like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMD-ATI-Radeon-HD-2600-XT-PRO-256MB-Dell-WP002/224223261783?hash=item3434bf7457:g:hM8AAOSwi9VfpG-H (ask the seller about it's condition I just googled it as a reference I dont necessarily recommend this particular purchase)  or even a better one. 

 

The price you will have to pay is about the price of a cheap half decent soldering iron + capacitor +solder+ flux + separate shipping costs because its unlikely you will find it all in a package/kit deal, ok maybe to buy all those things might be mildly cheaper (like saving 10 bucks max or so) but you wont have to do any work ... 

 

You could also buy a slightly faster GPU at about the same price if you look around... 

 

but if you insist on buying a capacitor and try then have a go at it https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KEMET/A750KS477M1CDAE013/?qs=fAHHVMwC%2Bbg3vanybMZY3Q%3D%3D

 

It will be wiser to replace all your capacitors though (also solder them in the right orientation in other words check where the blue painted part is oriented compared to the PCB surface printed thingy ) 

 

the first part "8e" is not of big importance it is how individual companies serialize their products if it has the right capacitance (470μF in your case) the right voltage (16VDC) and is the right type  (aluminum cap in your case) then you can use it for your card. 

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