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Sleeper PC

BiotechBen
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12 hours ago, Bombastinator said:

3.5mm jack wires could very well be in that connector.  I’m pretty sure just stereo, no mic if it’s that old. I remember power on as being two wires and reset as being two wires. One of the “I dunno”s voltage wise would be the power light.  That might need to be looked up.  You never know with old prebuilts. The easy thing to do would be just identify them and get a set of modern front panel wires as you’ll need one end of them to connect to your new motherboard anyway.   The internet may have good data on what’s what’s what.  Might save some time. 
 

That connector can I think be converted.  but it’s a good chunk of time.  Maybe more than you want to spend along with working out the airflow.  Could be time for a return on cost assessment.  How bad do you want it to be that particular case?  How much do you like messing with this stuff? 

I'm thinking a flip switch at the front for that vibe of old look, or just popping off the fascia for it. Either way, the original button is too much hassle. I'm starting to stray from the "must be exactly the same" would probably order from radio shack for that same era asthetic. In theory I could get the momentary that connects to the board and just glue it onto the button.

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@Bombastinator been doing more disassembly and got the drive cage at the top out with some gentle coersion and centrifugal force. Gutted the floppy bays and going to use the bigger one as a usb hub with the door flap disguising it. The drive bay upon cutting it smelled of PVC which was interesting. It's looking good so far for the case mod. 

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  • 4 weeks later...
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30 minutes ago, ragnarok0273 said:

I like the "4 weeks later..." touch.

Good job, Linus minion.

not much has gotten done, did more measurements and selected parts, purchasing comes this week. thinking of putting a 140mm in the front, the stock 92 in the middle to facilitate air going up, an 80/92 in the bottom, a 92 at the top corner for exhaust, and some little booster feet are in the making. RX 580 4gb, r5 2600, ax-370 gaming v1.0 with newest BIOS, antec 500w PSU, WD SN550 500GB and vintage DELL case from my childhood. Old IDE optical drive is gonna try to be salvaged with an adapter. 

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when I measured it out, a 140mm just  fits in the front. going to need to borrow the drive cage from the other same case I have to do it though, this one got a little butchered. 

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Posted (edited)
19 minutes ago, BiotechBen said:

when I measured it out, a 140mm just  fits in the front. going to need to borrow the drive cage from the other same case I have to do it though, this one got a little butchered. 

140mm fans can be short in static pressure, and iirc that’s a pretty narrow crack you have to pull air through.  I suggest making sure you find one with a lot of static pressure.  If you can get it to draw though a 140mm should have 140% of the cfm of a 120mm though. If you can’t you’ll have less cfm than a 120mm. I’m almost tempted to say 2 60s considering that central slit,  but if you can get it to draw a 140 will have potentially a lot more cfm

Edited by Bombastinator

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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11 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

140mm fans can be short in static pressure, and iirc that’s a pretty narrow crack you have to pull air through.  I suggest making sure you find one with a lot of static pressure.  If you can get it to draw though a 140mm should have 140% of the cfm of a 120mm though. If you can’t you’ll have less cfm than a 120mm. I’m almost tempted to say 2 60s considering that central slit,  but if you can get it to draw a 140 will have potentially a lot more cfm

Central slit? Are you taking about the fins on either side of the middle part? I don't mind running the 140 at higher rpm to pull air hard in through that front. I think the other case has one 5.25" cover, so I might steal that for a clean look. I honestly don't really need front I/O, I'm using a wireless mouse and controller and bluetooth headphones if I use them....

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27 minutes ago, BiotechBen said:

Central slit? Are you taking about the fins on either side of the middle part? I don't mind running the 140 at higher rpm to pull air hard in through that front. I think the other case has one 5.25" cover, so I might steal that for a clean look. I honestly don't really need front I/O, I'm using a wireless mouse and controller and bluetooth headphones if I use them....

I was thinking the slot in the center of the front fascia.  There were a couple of versions of that fascia I saw pics of though.  I may be thinking of the wrong one.

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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Is there extra width?  Standard width for computer fans is 25mm, but thicker ones can be found and thicker ones may have better static pressure. I may also not have the right front fascia in my mind and it may not matter.

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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11 hours ago, Bombastinator said:

Is there extra width?  Standard width for computer fans is 25mm, but thicker ones can be found and thicker ones may have better static pressure. I may also not have the right front fascia in my mind and it may not matter.

When I get a chance I can measure the width of the fascia fins. And fans have the strongest pull at the edge of the fins right, so if I can get the fans to have the edge of the fins closest to the intake for the fins, it should pull rather well right? I wonder if somebody makes like a "thicc boi" 140mm.... That would probably get some intense airflow. The other thing to consider would be whether to mount the fan to the drive cage behind the metal (would take a hole saw to it) or between the fascia and the metal frame of the case (would also take a hole saw to the metal frame).

Screenshot_20201124-014939.png

Screenshot_20201124-015024.png

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Will update as items are purchased

 

purchased: 

RX 480 8GB  (bought from different seller)

Corsair vengeance 2x8 3200 CL16 (arrived)

ASRock B450 PRO4 ATX (shipping)

Ryzen 5 2600x (fantastic deal)

Power supply

Networking

SSD (borrowed from another machine)

Pending:

 

 

 

Yet to buy:

Case fans (various models)

 

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Posted (edited)
On 11/24/2020 at 10:06 AM, BiotechBen said:

When I get a chance I can measure the width of the fascia fins. And fans have the strongest pull at the edge of the fins right, so if I can get the fans to have the edge of the fins closest to the intake for the fins, it should pull rather well right? I wonder if somebody makes like a "thicc boi" 140mm.... That would probably get some intense airflow. The other thing to consider would be whether to mount the fan to the drive cage behind the metal (would take a hole saw to it) or between the fascia and the metal frame of the case (would also take a hole saw to the metal frame).

Screenshot_20201124-014939.png

Screenshot_20201124-015024.png

The width in this case would be the space available to put a fan in behind the front plate and fascia.  “Thickness”might be a better term.  There are thin fans which can be 20mm or even 15mm, regular fans which are 25mm, and thick fans which can be 30mm or more.  Thick fans are even more rare than thin ones, but they exist.  The delta “blowymatron” seen in some LTT videos is frequently a 30mm fan. Thick fans tend to have more static pressure. I’m not sure how much the size of the fan relative to the intake slots will matter because there’s a good deal of space between the fascia and the metal frame to begin with and the fan sits behind the metal frame

Edited by Bombastinator

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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53 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

The width in this case would be the space available to put a fan in behind the front plate and fascia.  “Thickness”might be a better term.  There are thin fans which can be 20mm or even 15mm, regular fans which are 25mm, and thick fans which can be 30mm or more.  Thick fans are even more rare than thin ones, but they exist.  The delta “blowymatron” seen in some LTT videos is frequently a 30mm fan. Thick fans tend to have more static pressure. I’m not sure how much the size of the fan relative to the intake slots will matter because there’s a good deal of space between the fascia and the metal frame to begin with and the fan sits behind the metal frame

So the gap between the fascia and the metal is roughly 17mm and so I'm likely gonna use a hole saw and make a spot for the thicc high pressure fan, and the gap for the drive cage is 32ish mm... So I'm getting rid of the bottom of the drive cage to do it. I'm gonna run the fan with the side panel open first to see how the airflow goes.

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28 minutes ago, BiotechBen said:

So the gap between the fascia and the metal is roughly 17mm and so I'm likely gonna use a hole saw and make a spot for the thicc high pressure fan, and the gap for the drive cage is 32ish mm... So I'm getting rid of the bottom of the drive cage to do it. I'm gonna run the fan with the side panel open first to see how the airflow goes.

I’m Not sure what you mean but that may not matter. 

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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1 hour ago, Bombastinator said:

I’m Not sure what you mean but that may not matter. 

-Metal mesh to front fascia gap is 17mm

-Drive cage gap is about 32mm between the plastic things.

-Take hole saw to metal to make airflow easier for the fan

-Cut the drive cage to the necessary height for clearance, then mount the fan to the metal.

-run fan with side panel open to see how the airflow is.

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Posted (edited)
14 minutes ago, BiotechBen said:

-Metal mesh to front fascia gap is 17mm

-Drive cage gap is about 32mm between the plastic things.

-Take hole saw to metal to make airflow easier for the fan

-Cut the drive cage to the necessary height for clearance, then mount the fan to the metal.

-run fan with side panel open to see how the airflow is.

Makes sense. Might want to test before doing the cut in the frame.  It sounds like a pita and may not do much.

Edited by Bombastinator

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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27 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

Makes sense. Might want to test before doing the cut in the frame.  It sounds like a pita and may not do much.

The "mesh" I am referring to is a bunch of circles and squares cut out from the factory. Might dremel it out in a square tbh...

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Another update: MOBO is still "in transit" with USPS from newegg... If it gets an update tomorrow with arriving at a post office even sorta nearby, I'm driving and retrieving it.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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15 minutes ago, BiotechBen said:

GOOD NEWS EVERYONE: contacted newegg, filed an investigation claim with USPS for a lost package, ordered replacement parts from amazon, assembly should be Wednesday. 

@Bombastinator @ragnarok0273

Never lost a package with usps.  Ups, yes, but not usps.

Not a pro, not even very good.  I’m just old and have time currently.  Assuming I know a lot about computers can be a mistake.

 

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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