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Wanting to flash my 2080 ti XC Hydro Coppers BIOS..

mrdoubtfull
By mrdoubtfull
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I can figure out how to do it but I see conflicting information on whether I should or not.. 

 

Is it safe? I'm limited to I think 112% power target but I get over 2000mhz core/mem under 45C full load so looking to push it further.. 

 

Which BIOS should I use? Are all evga ones safe? 

 

I also read that some newer cards can no longer flash BIOSes, anyone know about that? 

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Try this one, make sure you back up the current one first

 

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/205879/evga-rtx2080ti-11264-181023

 

all that matters is your card has to have the same PCIe power connector configuration as the card the BIOS was originally for.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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55 minutes ago, mrdoubtfull said:

I can figure out how to do it but I see conflicting information on whether I should or not.. 

 

Is it safe? I'm limited to I think 112% power target but I get over 2000mhz core/mem under 45C full load so looking to push it further.. 

 

Which BIOS should I use? Are all evga ones safe? 

 

I also read that some newer cards can no longer flash BIOSes, anyone know about that? 

I picked up a Ventus GP OC 2080Ti myself... and...here is my 2c.

 

#1 - Are you planning to watercool it (even the AIO kitted ones) because asking the GPU to draw more power makes it produce more heat (at same clocks too) and then your bound by TEMPS anyway.... every 5*c from 40*c makes it drop 15Mhz, so it's not really worth it.. it also changes the default curve you had to different so you still have to manually tune it with a new bios. (but because temps rise, there is still no point) when the GPU draws 338w or even 450w on "stock" clocks as well (it'll just MAX it even without the OC)
 

#2 - I have a 290w (111PWR) 2080Ti, it's overclocked 19% just with 290w, you just have to Manually screw with Nvidia's Boost Curve in MSI Afterburner Frequency/Voltage panel. (Control-F)

#2.1 I threw on the 338w and 450w bios as well, and we are back to #1.

Set 3Dmark graphics tests on a Windowed Loop, create a profile in MSI Afterburner, open the curve
Various tests make the clocks do different things.. iE so many GPU cores, Firestrike 1080p underutilizes the GPU and clocks can SKYROCKET with more power available due to not100% usages. use 4K based tests to fully load the GPU while upclocking values.

You can use the inbuilt OC scanner - you MUST MUST set the GPU to use higher fan speeds (even if obtrusive to ears) while it runs the OC scanner so it gets the BEST BINNED value for the voltage its testing.
Feel free to ask any Questions.

https://www.3dmark.com/compare/pr/336822/pr/367166

 

I will say that after saving my custom curve..
I defaulted and then did another manual without the curve just using the slider, run the Windowed Loop test, and add 90Mhz, then 15Mhz each step until it crashes.
Go back down 15Mhz, save profile, rerun test, adjust accordingly if it crashes another 15Mhz down and retest.
(It clocks up and down in 15Mhz increments thats why that value was mentioned)
FYI Mine crashed at +195 over my stock clocks, and I ended up at +175 on the Core
^Also, when adding say +175 and applying, then using the 1080p underutilized testing, it might skyrocket clocks and crash on the highend...
You then go back to the curve (using the +175) and drop the topend down) it won't go over 1.093v, cos Nvidia limits that as Max.
1.06v and after that, make the Max clock a little lower and retest the situation that crashed on highclocking.


If you are VRAM clocking and it artifacts, don't just lower VRAM and rerun, you MUST restart the PC, you can hold DIRTY paged data in VRAM and it will carry over on the reduced clock without a reboot.
I have Samsung Vram, so I pushed it to 850Mhz (Daily) but I can benchmark it at 1000Mhz easy, but games don't like that so yeah.....+850Mhz.

If you have Micron VRAM chips, try 800Mhz, could be stable in games at lower though....

 

The 'flashing limits on new cards'

Important Starting in the second half of 2019, many cards are now shipping with a newer XUSB FW Version ID, preventing a lot of BIOSes in the TechPowerUp BIOS Collection from being flashed to the card through NVFlash, so be aware when purchasing a new card, you might not be able to flash a higher power limit BIOS on it. from - https://www.overclock.net/threads/official-nvidia-rtx-2080-ti-owners-club.1706276/

I managed to do it anyway and it works, I used the EVGA 338w and the KFA 450w, but my 290w performs better, more efficiently and doesn't carry the #1 issue.

 

 

I don't mean to turn you off the idea,... its just all worth considering that more watts = more heat and if not on water.....going to be similar IMO.

Maximums - Asus Z97-K /w i5 4690 Bclk @106.9Mhz * x39 = 4.17Ghz, 8GB of 2600Mhz DDR3,.. Gigabyte GTX970 G1-Gaming @ 1550Mhz

 

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11 hours ago, Jurrunio said:

Try this one, make sure you back up the current one first

 

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/205879/evga-rtx2080ti-11264-181023

 

all that matters is your card has to have the same PCIe power connector configuration as the card the BIOS was originally for.

Thanks, I'll give it a try! Do you think the FTW3 BIOS would work? 

 

If something goes wrong will I be able to fix it? I tried it on my 2080 Super laptop and bricked it but I think that's completely different, right? 

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11 hours ago, SkilledRebuilds said:

 

Thanks for the response, I'll try what you said.. But my card is water cooled, it's the hydrocopper model and I haven't seen it go over 45C during full load.. 

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41 minutes ago, mrdoubtfull said:

Thanks, I'll give it a try! Do you think the FTW3 BIOS would work? 

 

If something goes wrong will I be able to fix it? I tried it on my 2080 Super laptop and bricked it but I think that's completely different, right? 

Laptops dont give you any recovery option while desktops can either use an iGPU or any display adapter card. However I dont know how you managed to brick it to begin with because NVFlash pretty effectively stops that from being done. Just dont try "bypass tricks" for NVflash, it stops you from doing something for a reason.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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6 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

Laptops dont give you any recovery option while desktops can either use an iGPU or any display adapter card. However I dont know how you managed to brick it to begin with because NVFlash pretty effectively stops that from being done. Just dont try "bypass tricks" for NVflash, it stops you from doing something for a reason.

Gotcha.. Ya I have no idea what happened, I just followed the tutorial I found online.. Good thing I was within return window so I didn't lose out.. 

 

But do you think the FTW3 BIOS will work? 

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35 minutes ago, mrdoubtfull said:

@Jurrunio Hey, I'm getting ERROR: GPU mismatch.. I tried you using the BIOS you linked..

then maybe you have a 10DE 1E04 card, what does GPU-Z say?

 

 

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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23 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

then maybe you have a 10DE 1E04 card, what does GPU-Z say?

 

 

10DE 1E04 - 3842 2389

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4 hours ago, mrdoubtfull said:

10DE 1E04 - 3842 2389

Try this one then

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/208274/palit-rtx2080ti-11264-190131

310w power limit should be a decent increase from your 280w in the current bios.

 

btw I just remembered that with 2080ti to 2070 (not sure about the slower ones and Super models) have two variants of GPUs, the one with A in the code (say TU102-300A) and those without (TU102-300), the A parts are supposedly better for overclocking and as a result, custom cards with higher power limits seemed to always use that one. I think 1E07 models are cards with A parts, 1E04 for without.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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Yep, NonA you HAVE to shunt mod to get around the PWR limits imposed and no ability to BIOS update the NonA.

 

Mismatch,. There is plenty of risk forcing it.

I did, but I'm not a good example of just do it.

Risks exist.

 

I had a MSI Ventus so I had to force NVFlash for EVGA/KFA2 bios's.

 

Being on Air....was just testing (big risk)

Reverted to 290w as it just works :)

And I still got my up to +19% going full manual curve tweaking over time (an hour per night for couple nights testing)

Maximums - Asus Z97-K /w i5 4690 Bclk @106.9Mhz * x39 = 4.17Ghz, 8GB of 2600Mhz DDR3,.. Gigabyte GTX970 G1-Gaming @ 1550Mhz

 

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13 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

Try this one then

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/208274/palit-rtx2080ti-11264-190131

310w power limit should be a decent increase from your 280w in the current bios.

 

btw I just remembered that with 2080ti to 2070 (not sure about the slower ones and Super models) have two variants of GPUs, the one with A in the code (say TU102-300A) and those without (TU102-300), the A parts are supposedly better for overclocking and as a result, custom cards with higher power limits seemed to always use that one. I think 1E07 models are cards with A parts, 1E04 for without.

Sweet! It's working, I got +24 instead of 12 power limit.. Running tests now! Thanks a lot! 

 

3 minutes ago, SkilledRebuilds said:

Yep, NonA you HAVE to shunt mod to get around the PWR limits imposed and no ability to BIOS update the NonA.

 

Mismatch,. There is plenty of risk forcing it.

I did, but I'm not a good example of just do it.

Risks exist.

 

I had a MSI Ventus so I had to force NVFlash for EVGA/KFA2 bios's.

So you don't think it's worth forcing? I kind of want to unless the chance of bricking it is high.. I'm prob not able to do the shunt mod lol. 

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1 minute ago, mrdoubtfull said:

Sweet! It's working, I got +24 instead of 12 power limit.. Running tests now! Thanks a lot! 

 

So you don't think it's worth forcing? I kind of want to unless the chance of bricking it is high.. I'm prob not able to do the shunt mod lol. 

Well... I'm of two minds...

 

If I was on Water... 100% ME PERSONALLY would.

But giving advice to someone else to do so I'm hesitant obviously....

 

Whatever you do... research it beyond 5000% so your beyond comfy.

Videos, Videos, Articles ,Forums, Videos...

 

Worth checking out this..2080Ti based content down the list...

https://www.youtube.com/c/FrameChasers.

Maximums - Asus Z97-K /w i5 4690 Bclk @106.9Mhz * x39 = 4.17Ghz, 8GB of 2600Mhz DDR3,.. Gigabyte GTX970 G1-Gaming @ 1550Mhz

 

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4 minutes ago, SkilledRebuilds said:

Well... I'm of two minds...

 

If I was on Water... 100% ME PERSONALLY would.

But giving advice to someone else to do so I'm hesitant obviously....

 

Whatever you do... research it beyond 5000% so your beyond comfy.

Videos, Videos, Articles ,Forums, Videos...

 

Worth checking out this..2080Ti based content down the list...

https://www.youtube.com/c/FrameChasers.

I'm on water and honestly I think I got a pretty decently binned card as it does pretty well in benchmarks and games with good temps so I'm willing to try anything.. 

 

I'll do some research but can you point me into the right direction/guide for forcing the flash? Don't worry, I wont blame you haha, but it'll probably help ensure I have the best chance possible..

 

I appreciate the help!

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The 2080ti owners club first page has heaps of info.. expand the necessary spoiler areas.

 

Between Framechasers on Youtube

And https://www.overclock.net/threads/official-nvidia-rtx-2080-ti-owners-club.1706276/

 

I got all the info I needed there, and then googled further specifics.

I did skim across manymanymany pages not just the first heavy detailed page.

 

The force flash is just a command line argument in NVFLASH64, but you'll come across that... as well as --protectoff to remove BIOS WRITE protection.

Its all in the owners club thread pretty sure.

 

Maximums - Asus Z97-K /w i5 4690 Bclk @106.9Mhz * x39 = 4.17Ghz, 8GB of 2600Mhz DDR3,.. Gigabyte GTX970 G1-Gaming @ 1550Mhz

 

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41 minutes ago, SkilledRebuilds said:

The 2080ti owners club first page has heaps of info.. expand the necessary spoiler areas.

 

Between Framechasers on Youtube

And https://www.overclock.net/threads/official-nvidia-rtx-2080-ti-owners-club.1706276/

 

I got all the info I needed there, and then googled further specifics.

I did skim across manymanymany pages not just the first heavy detailed page.

 

The force flash is just a command line argument in NVFLASH64, but you'll come across that... as well as --protectoff to remove BIOS WRITE protection.

Its all in the owners club thread pretty sure.

 

is flashing an A chip BIOS to  a non A chip card a bad idea? I'll check out the forum!!! Thanks for the info, BTW!

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1 hour ago, mrdoubtfull said:

is flashing an A chip BIOS to  a non A chip card a bad idea? I'll check out the forum!!! Thanks for the info, BTW!

Wont work, don't try.

The 2080ti thread I linked explains.

Maximums - Asus Z97-K /w i5 4690 Bclk @106.9Mhz * x39 = 4.17Ghz, 8GB of 2600Mhz DDR3,.. Gigabyte GTX970 G1-Gaming @ 1550Mhz

 

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9 minutes ago, SkilledRebuilds said:

Wont work, don't try.

The 2080ti thread I linked explains.

Ahh ok.. So I'm pretty SOL then lol. 

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26 minutes ago, mrdoubtfull said:

Ahh ok.. So I'm pretty SOL then lol. 

Depends how adventurous you are.

NonA chips can still be shunted.

Can order the Part number for Shunt in comments.

Method Doesnt get hot enough to worry about, and is reversable.

No Solder, No Liquid Metal, just a Shunt and some Glue

Maximums - Asus Z97-K /w i5 4690 Bclk @106.9Mhz * x39 = 4.17Ghz, 8GB of 2600Mhz DDR3,.. Gigabyte GTX970 G1-Gaming @ 1550Mhz

 

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18 minutes ago, SkilledRebuilds said:

Depends how adventurous you are.

NonA chips can still be shunted.

Can order the Part number for Shunt in comments.

Method Doesnt get hot enough to worry about, and is reversable.

No Solder, No Liquid Metal, just a Shunt and some Glue

Interesting, think I'll look into this! Thanks man 👍

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I don't see the point in pushing a turing card that hard as they don't scale that well with voltage, I'd stick with the 290w that you have now and just tune as best you can

8086k Winner BABY!!

 

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45 minutes ago, TheDankKoosh said:

I don't see the point in pushing a turing card that hard as they don't scale that well with voltage, I'd stick with the 290w that you have now and just tune as best you can

True enough.. esp as this OP is new to it, not versed in mods or curves yet.

Ive manually set my 1.063v to 2145Mhz

When underutilized it gets there.

Due to AIR cooling, with higher demand..its 1995-2055 at 4K loads typically at .950-1.0v, with WATER lowering temps and increasing boost bins I could have it be more consistently at 2070-2100+ and up to 1.05-1.063v chasing more...due to how Temps Vs Boost works.

^290w

 

Manual Curves on Water would be for most people...

Maximums - Asus Z97-K /w i5 4690 Bclk @106.9Mhz * x39 = 4.17Ghz, 8GB of 2600Mhz DDR3,.. Gigabyte GTX970 G1-Gaming @ 1550Mhz

 

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57 minutes ago, mrdoubtfull said:

Interesting, think I'll look into this! Thanks man 👍

Below is a valid point.

Squeeze the snot out of 290w using custom frequency curve tuning. You'll do better than me due to Water temps.

Framechasers has 2080ti or 3080 curve videos.

Methodologies the same.

54 minutes ago, TheDankKoosh said:

I don't see the point in pushing a turing card that hard as they don't scale that well with voltage, I'd stick with the 290w that you have now and just tune as best you can

 

Maximums - Asus Z97-K /w i5 4690 Bclk @106.9Mhz * x39 = 4.17Ghz, 8GB of 2600Mhz DDR3,.. Gigabyte GTX970 G1-Gaming @ 1550Mhz

 

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41 minutes ago, SkilledRebuilds said:

 

I was getting 2100mhz during Apex earlier so I'm pretty happy with it. I'll leave it alone lol. I'm gonna play with the curve and see if I can squeeze a tiny more out but honestly, I'm pretty happy with it! Thanks for the help.. 

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