new ryzen 9 3900x arrived, unexpectedly high idle and load (over 95°C)

[111Kur]

1 hour update because I can - still sitting around 84°C although the room temperature rose by 1 degree while the temperature outside fell a few.

[Tristerin]

43 minutes ago, 111Kur said:

1 hour update because I can - still sitting around 84°C although the room temperature rose by 1 degree while the temperature outside fell a few.

Not ideal temps for me, and this was with an undervolt?  What thermal paste did you use?  I recommend TG Kryonaut as that historically drops my temps by up to 5c alone.

 

Continue to run the pump at 100% as well, you want the coolest possible water being ran across the block fins at all times.  Pumps are rated to run their max speed at whatever hours are rated.  There is no additional wear and tear to it on max.  Unless you are getting noise then that would be a reason to turn down pump speed.

 

There may also be some air bubbles still trapped.  I would continue trying that as a solution (and if you sit the case on its backside - cable management panel - and let run its what I do when Im done wiggling out bubbles) as well.

 

Can you put the radiator in push/pull config?  That will also drop it a few C

[Tristerin]

I have mine hooked up to an FX 8350 atm with 12mm thin fans to fit in the spot (meaning, NOT good fans for radiators) and it stays under 72c at full load for an hour.  And thats a toaster.  In a shit case as far airflow is concerned

 

Ryzen is chiplet so that may be an issue to with the coldplate in that block as its designed Im not sure.  Id see what TIM, and keep chasing bubbles out (had the same issue when I got the AIO out of storage when I slapped the FX rig back together) took probably an hour of me messing with it to get it within reasonable temps.  It was at first idle 50c then load to 80c and thermal shutdown.  Found that out the hard way installing the OS

 

IMHO if your hot tube is super hot coming off the block you still have air bubbles, at least by my experience 

[111Kur]

16 minutes ago, Tristerin said:

Not ideal temps for me, and this was with an undervolt?  What thermal paste did you use?  I recommend TG Kryonaut as that historically drops my temps by up to 5c alone.

 

Continue to run the pump at 100% as well, you want the coolest possible water being ran across the block fins at all times.  Pumps are rated to run their max speed at whatever hours are rated.  There is no additional wear and tear to it on max.  Unless you are getting noise then that would be a reason to turn down pump speed.

 

There may also be some air bubbles still trapped.  I would continue trying that as a solution (and if you sit the case on its backside - cable management panel - and let run its what I do when Im done wiggling out bubbles) as well.

 

Can you put the radiator in push/pull config?  That will also drop it a few C

I'll try to vacuum the rad tomorrow, maybe that'll help. From what I tested open case drops the temps by one degree so I'll try to put the fans as pull above the rad to get some more general airflow. I don't have any more fans so I can't try push/pull. 
edit 

just checked, I don't even have the clearance for push/pull with normal fans. 

/edit

As for the pump, I think it's fixed at ~2100rpm, at least I haven't found a way to change the speed and it doesn't react to temp/profile changes. I'm actually thinking about getting some aircooled tower rad and replace the top rad situation with pure exhaust to get better airflow and get rid of the weight, since gyrating the whole thing is more of a workout than I wanted, plus the push fan config I have now sounds like a leafblower at the high rpm I'm running it now. 

[Tristerin]

1 hour ago, 111Kur said:

I'll try to vacuum the rad tomorrow, maybe that'll help. From what I tested open case drops the temps by one degree so I'll try to put the fans as pull above the rad to get some more general airflow. I don't have any more fans so I can't try push/pull. 
edit 

just checked, I don't even have the clearance for push/pull with normal fans. 

/edit

As for the pump, I think it's fixed at ~2100rpm, at least I haven't found a way to change the speed and it doesn't react to temp/profile changes. I'm actually thinking about getting some aircooled tower rad and replace the top rad situation with pure exhaust to get better airflow and get rid of the weight, since gyrating the whole thing is more of a workout than I wanted, plus the push fan config I have now sounds like a leafblower at the high rpm I'm running it now. 

download iCUE to control the pump from corsairs website, go to the pump profile and set Extreme.  If you arent controlling it, its likely at default speed so you will notice quite a drop in temps at full speed.  At least I do on mine.

 

EDIT - I should say, if you have the micro usb to usb header connected to control it

 

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/downloads

 

EDIT 2 - reading about the V1 if you arent getting it to be recognized by iCUE, then you have to download Corsair Link 4 which was the latest and greatest before iCUE replaced it.  IMHO Link was better anyway.

 

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/corsairlink

 

EDIT 3 - if none of that works, and Im wrong, then its either connected to a pump header (3 pin or 4 pin?) or SATA powered - if its on a board header than go into BIOS and set that header to max DC or PWM (3 pin = DC 4 pin = PWM) to put the pump at full speed.  If its SATA powered its at full speed already

[111Kur]

10 hours ago, Tristerin said:

download iCUE to control the pump from corsairs website, go to the pump profile and set Extreme.  If you arent controlling it, its likely at default speed so you will notice quite a drop in temps at full speed.  At least I do on mine.

 

EDIT - I should say, if you have the micro usb to usb header connected to control it

 

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/downloads

 

EDIT 2 - reading about the V1 if you arent getting it to be recognized by iCUE, then you have to download Corsair Link 4 which was the latest and greatest before iCUE replaced it.  IMHO Link was better anyway.

 

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/corsairlink

 

EDIT 3 - if none of that works, and Im wrong, then its either connected to a pump header (3 pin or 4 pin?) or SATA powered - if its on a board header than go into BIOS and set that header to max DC or PWM (3 pin = DC 4 pin = PWM) to put the pump at full speed.  If its SATA powered its at full speed already

I'm actually runnign corsair link and it's the fixed rpm / sata version, so no luck there.
I gyrated some more while cleaning the rad and moving the fans so if there's any air still left in there it's earned its stay. Or maybe it's just not much coolant left? core temps hover around ~97..80°C open case, ~82°C closed case now, coolant is at ~50°C. I guess the problem is somewhere in the heat transfer at block and rad after all, so I guess I'll be looking into air coolers. 

[111Kur]

22 minutes ago, 111Kur said:

I'm actually runnign corsair link and it's the fixed rpm / sata version, so no luck there.
I gyrated some more while cleaning the rad and moving the fans so if there's any air still left in there it's earned its stay. Or maybe it's just not much coolant left? core temps hover around ~97..80°C open case, ~82°C closed case now, coolant is at ~50°C. I guess the problem is somewhere in the heat transfer at block and rad after all, so I guess I'll be looking into air coolers. 

Update: Tried to run blender again as this *should* be a workstation machine, blender render in cycles gets me to ~85..87°C (so far, slowly rising each frame) peak with a drop to 72 between frames. 

[Tristerin]

1 hour ago, 111Kur said:

Update: Tried to run blender again as this *should* be a workstation machine, blender render in cycles gets me to ~85..87°C (so far, slowly rising each frame) peak with a drop to 72 between frames. 

If it were me I would try a few things.

 

1.) Remove AIO completely, keep plugged in to SATA power and powering the pump at full tilt I would literally orient that AIO in every direction possible to get all the bubbles out.  Bubbles in block = heat.  You will hear liquid sloshing around even in NEW AIO's but if you do this and believe its missing ALOT of liquid (and you do this and it doesn't work for dropping temps) I would do step 2

 

2.) Buy a cheap reservoir, cut a line from block to AIO radiator and drain.  This is a mixed metal AIO (alum and copper, like 90% of the AIOs on the market) so you add the reservoir (barb fittings) to the loop (custom loop!) and fill with antifreeze (I use Prestone 50/50 premix with their patened Cor-Guard - corrosion inhibitor - and antifreeze is a natural biocide so no need to add anything else) to replace liquid.  (you can google people fixing AIOs this way, and I personally run all mixed metal custom loops and use antifreeze as science beat this long ago - corrosion issues - plus the AIO companies use something similar anyways).

 

If none of that works (res with barb fittings is like $4-6 on ebay depending on the day) then I would say the 240mm radiator isn't going to cut it.  (not enough surface area for dissipation so the liquid is to hot so it loses its ability to absorb the heat efficiently off the coldplate - copper block - )

[111Kur]

42 minutes ago, Tristerin said:

If it were me I would try a few things.

 

1.) Remove AIO completely, keep plugged in to SATA power and powering the pump at full tilt I would literally orient that AIO in every direction possible to get all the bubbles out.  Bubbles in block = heat.  You will hear liquid sloshing around even in NEW AIO's but if you do this and believe its missing ALOT of liquid (and you do this and it doesn't work for dropping temps) I would do step 2

 

2.) Buy a cheap reservoir, cut a line from block to AIO radiator and drain.  This is a mixed metal AIO (alum and copper, like 90% of the AIOs on the market) so you add the reservoir (barb fittings) to the loop (custom loop!) and fill with antifreeze (I use Prestone 50/50 premix with their patened Cor-Guard - corrosion inhibitor - and antifreeze is a natural biocide so no need to add anything else) to replace liquid.  (you can google people fixing AIOs this way, and I personally run all mixed metal custom loops and use antifreeze as science beat this long ago - corrosion issues - plus the AIO companies use something similar anyways).

 

If none of that works (res with barb fittings is like $4-6 on ebay depending on the day) then I would say the 240mm radiator isn't going to cut it.  (not enough surface area for dissipation so the liquid is to hot so it loses its ability to absorb the heat efficiently off the coldplate - copper block - )

That sounds like the kind of stuff I'd be happy to try on my second system.. I'm not too happy with having "open" liquid in this one, though, or having any more downtime than necessary. I think I'll buy a noctua d15 and call it a day. From what I heard, it should give comparable temps to the corsair AIOs? Some people even talk about better ones.

[Tristerin]

1 hour ago, 111Kur said:

That sounds like the kind of stuff I'd be happy to try on my second system.. I'm not too happy with having "open" liquid in this one, though, or having any more downtime than necessary. I think I'll buy a noctua d15 and call it a day. From what I heard, it should give comparable temps to the corsair AIOs? Some people even talk about better ones.

I think you will find the D15 a great air cooler.  I myself want to buy one just to compare it to my custom loop with 2x240 and 1x120 mm rads in push pull config.  I paid about $100 for my loop build (china ftw) ordering parts and a D15 with fans is about the same.