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Safe way to adapt a 4 pin CPU to an 8 pin?

Stargaze obama

Maybe look at the used market?

F@H
Desktop: i9-13900K, ASUS Z790-E, 64GB DDR5-6000 CL36, RTX3080, 2TB MP600 Pro XT, 2TB SX8200Pro, 2x16TB Ironwolf RAID0, Corsair HX1200, Antec Vortex 360 AIO, Thermaltake Versa H25 TG, Samsung 4K curved 49" TV, 23" secondary, Mountain Everest Max

Mobile SFF rig: i9-9900K, Noctua NH-L9i, Asrock Z390 Phantom ITX-AC, 32GB, GTX1070, 2x1TB SX8200Pro RAID0, 2x5TB 2.5" HDD RAID0, Athena 500W Flex (Noctua fan), Custom 4.7l 3D printed case

 

Asus Zenbook UM325UA, Ryzen 7 5700u, 16GB, 1TB, OLED

 

GPD Win 2

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1 hour ago, Stargaze obama said:

2650v2 performs very similar to newer CPUs like the 6700k, I've got 32gb of ddr3 in quad channel running at 1866 so it performs about the same as dual channel ddr4 at 2133, people have easily got the 2650v2 running at 4.2ghz on all cores consuming around 140/150w at load, don't really want to upgrade the entire system when what I currently have still runs everything fine and has newer features like an nvme gen 3 so there's no need to really spend the extra yet, I bought the system about 3 months ago and the entire build came to less than £180 here in the uk so it's pretty good value in my opinion

That 2560 OC depends on more factors. Cooling solution, stability of the current supply from the psu (it is not a rule, but PSUs that come with an 8 pin connector OOTB, on average tend to provide a more stable power, it may mean they didn't try to skimp out on too much). It might depend on the quality of power delivery of the motherboard. It can depend on the quality of the ram a little. Big current draw on the gpu can affect system stability on such a limited PSU if you OC the CPU. Even the bios has some say in the matter.

 

And you should not really compare a considerable OC you may or may not get on a CPU you don't yet have (you said you will be moving to a 2560v2) to the boost clock of another that has a different IPC, different process node, different memory, different voltage range.

 

Also, what motherboard are you using? Hard to believe you could get a Z series board included on that bundle.

 

Finally, that i7 and it's younger brother, the 7700k pretty much qualify as i3s or R3s these days. Nobody is saying you should move to newer platforms, or that most games need it, but do not kid yourself regarding the performance tier of the CPU you have and the one you are moving to.

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if you got your build to work with a psu harvested from a prebuilt, good on you.

 

if you want to overclock with said power supply, already aware that it's not built for the task you're intending to use it for.. GET A DECENT FREAKING POWER SUPPLY.

 

rated wattage is one thing, connectors is another. the thing about rated wattage is, if your power supply only has a 4-pin cpu power connector, it is not designed to handle anything more than 150 watts to the cpu. most enthousiast marketed power supplies (you know, the ones on the shelf with a fancy box) are built to handle people pushing the limits. power supplies in prebuilts very much arent. a power supply in a prebuilt is built to last a decade, and do so as cheaply as possible, because that's the market of prebuilts: hitting a pricepoint, and low RMA rates.

 

also, if you're talking overclocking, the stability of the +12v rail is a notably important factor, and if you're pushing an underrated connector, you are basicly just asking for instability.

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2 hours ago, Stargaze obama said:

What brands or models of PSU do you recommend, looking at even the cheapest new psus and they are costing over a 1/4 of my whole build, around £50 for an evga 430w psu

Brands? ADATA, because they only have one PSU. If I tell you EVGA or Corsair then you will look at the cheapest PoS unit you can get, like that 430w you're looking at.

Interim 15 T200 OKF("F" intel processors are specifically archituctured for gaming) maybe upgrad to 13'900 | Peeralight cpu fan | Stryx Z690-A Wife(which is branded by ASUS and it's ROG label) | Thermotake 16x 8x2GO SODINM 2400mjz cl22 (2 of them with the mood lighting) | 980 EVO 1TB m.2 ssd card + Kensington 2TB SATA nvme + WD BLACK PRO ULTRA MAX 4TB GAMING DESTROYER HHD | Echa etc 3060 duel fan dissipator 12 GBi and Azrock with the radian 550 XT Tiachi | NEXT H510 Vit Klar Svart | Seasonice 600watts voeding(rated for 100.000 hours, running since 2010, ballpark estimate 8 hours a day which should make it good for 34 years) | Nocturna case fans | 0LED Duel moniter

 

New build in progress: Ryen™ 8 7700x3D with a copper pipe fan | Z60e-A | Kingstron RENEGATE 16x2 Go hyenix | Phantek 2 the thar mesh in front | lead lex black label psu + AsiaHorse białe/białe | 1080 Pro 8TB 15800MB/S NvMe(for gaming this increase fps and charging time, cooled by a M.2 slot with coolblock and additional thermopad) and faster 4000GB HHD | MAI GeForce GTX 2070 Ti and RTX 6800 | Corshair psu

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3 hours ago, Ralf said:

Brands? ADATA, because they only have one PSU. If I tell you EVGA or Corsair then you will look at the cheapest PoS unit you can get, like that 430w you're looking at.

That 430w was still £50 and was an 80 plus silver

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5 hours ago, LauRoman said:

That 2560 OC depends on more factors. Cooling solution, stability of the current supply from the psu (it is not a rule, but PSUs that come with an 8 pin connector OOTB, on average tend to provide a more stable power, it may mean they didn't try to skimp out on too much). It might depend on the quality of power delivery of the motherboard. It can depend on the quality of the ram a little. Big current draw on the gpu can affect system stability on such a limited PSU if you OC the CPU. Even the bios has some say in the matter.

 

And you should not really compare a considerable OC you may or may not get on a CPU you don't yet have (you said you will be moving to a 2560v2) to the boost clock of another that has a different IPC, different process node, different memory, different voltage range.

 

Also, what motherboard are you using? Hard to believe you could get a Z series board included on that bundle.

 

Finally, that i7 and it's younger brother, the 7700k pretty much qualify as i3s or R3s these days. Nobody is saying you should move to newer platforms, or that most games need it, but do not kid yourself regarding the performance tier of the CPU you have and the one you are moving to.

I'm not kidding myself on the performance, my mate has a 6700k and gaming was identical at my stock speeds on some games, other games that favor fast cores clearly won because my current CPU is running at 2.3ghz

 

Motherboard is a Chinese x79

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5 hours ago, Kilrah said:

Maybe look at the used market?

Not sure, would you recommend going used?

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4 hours ago, Stargaze obama said:

I'm not kidding myself on the performance, my mate has a 6700k and gaming was identical at my stock speeds on some games, other games that favor fast cores clearly won because my current CPU is running at 2.3ghz

 

Motherboard is a Chinese x79

I know the type of board category you speak of. Heard about them even before LTT mentioned them in their videos. I do not trust the power delivery on those boards to do any real overclocking. And BIOS settings are lackluster on those boards. And they use newer either recycled or maybe even rejected PCH chips, in order to support nvme and stuff.

 

"Some games" are not a good benchmark of the overall performance of the CPU. Usually it is the newer types of games that are the target, or popular esports titles. For example, i can play Hearthstone just fine on an old pc i have in a vacation home that has a q6600 and a 5570. I have yet to even try to run stuff like the Witcher 3 on that thing. I would not say that it qualifies as anywhere near the performance of my partner's 3770 or my 7700k.

 

Me, and other people are saying that investing in a quality power supply that can probably also power a future build makes more sense than adding 4 more threads to an already low frequency CPU. Because, after a certain threshold, IPC and frequency are more important for gaming than thread count, just as, after a threshold, that is less i.portant thn gpu performance. Not sure it is aplicable to gaming, but there are cases where new instruction sets or hardware acceleration for some tasks has a bigger impact on overall performance (things like nvenc, or quicksync, if it is still used)

 

Unless you can get that 2560v2 for 10-20$ or get it for free or are specifically upgrading a server, the money for it are better spent on a bigger ssd, or moving to one if you never had one, or going to a more stable power supply.

 

People are not trying to power supply or platform shame you. You should save that money for future builds, or save it in this likely failing economy, considering the times, or invest it in a component that matters more for the day-to-day stability or performance of your system.

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20 hours ago, Stargaze obama said:

That 430w was still £50 and was an 80 plus silver

Link please.

Interim 15 T200 OKF("F" intel processors are specifically archituctured for gaming) maybe upgrad to 13'900 | Peeralight cpu fan | Stryx Z690-A Wife(which is branded by ASUS and it's ROG label) | Thermotake 16x 8x2GO SODINM 2400mjz cl22 (2 of them with the mood lighting) | 980 EVO 1TB m.2 ssd card + Kensington 2TB SATA nvme + WD BLACK PRO ULTRA MAX 4TB GAMING DESTROYER HHD | Echa etc 3060 duel fan dissipator 12 GBi and Azrock with the radian 550 XT Tiachi | NEXT H510 Vit Klar Svart | Seasonice 600watts voeding(rated for 100.000 hours, running since 2010, ballpark estimate 8 hours a day which should make it good for 34 years) | Nocturna case fans | 0LED Duel moniter

 

New build in progress: Ryen™ 8 7700x3D with a copper pipe fan | Z60e-A | Kingstron RENEGATE 16x2 Go hyenix | Phantek 2 the thar mesh in front | lead lex black label psu + AsiaHorse białe/białe | 1080 Pro 8TB 15800MB/S NvMe(for gaming this increase fps and charging time, cooled by a M.2 slot with coolblock and additional thermopad) and faster 4000GB HHD | MAI GeForce GTX 2070 Ti and RTX 6800 | Corshair psu

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On 5/21/2020 at 1:13 PM, Stargaze obama said:

around £50 for an evga 430w psu

 

1 hour ago, Stargaze obama said:

Item has since sold but I think it was this one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264738446357

I don't think so and there are no silver Evga units out there, but correct me if i'm wrong. Anyway, the Be Quiet on ebay isnt better either.

Interim 15 T200 OKF("F" intel processors are specifically archituctured for gaming) maybe upgrad to 13'900 | Peeralight cpu fan | Stryx Z690-A Wife(which is branded by ASUS and it's ROG label) | Thermotake 16x 8x2GO SODINM 2400mjz cl22 (2 of them with the mood lighting) | 980 EVO 1TB m.2 ssd card + Kensington 2TB SATA nvme + WD BLACK PRO ULTRA MAX 4TB GAMING DESTROYER HHD | Echa etc 3060 duel fan dissipator 12 GBi and Azrock with the radian 550 XT Tiachi | NEXT H510 Vit Klar Svart | Seasonice 600watts voeding(rated for 100.000 hours, running since 2010, ballpark estimate 8 hours a day which should make it good for 34 years) | Nocturna case fans | 0LED Duel moniter

 

New build in progress: Ryen™ 8 7700x3D with a copper pipe fan | Z60e-A | Kingstron RENEGATE 16x2 Go hyenix | Phantek 2 the thar mesh in front | lead lex black label psu + AsiaHorse białe/białe | 1080 Pro 8TB 15800MB/S NvMe(for gaming this increase fps and charging time, cooled by a M.2 slot with coolblock and additional thermopad) and faster 4000GB HHD | MAI GeForce GTX 2070 Ti and RTX 6800 | Corshair psu

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On 5/22/2020 at 12:39 AM, LauRoman said:

Because, after a certain threshold, IPC and frequency are more important for gaming than thread coun

False. Games are starting to use even more threads. after console release game are starting to use aroun 16 threads

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

Spoiler

| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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29 minutes ago, Ralf said:

 

I don't think so and there are no silver Evga units out there, but correct me if i'm wrong. Anyway, the Be Quiet on ebay isnt better either.

So what am I supposed to be looking for? My budget is limited so I don't have the £100 people are saying

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9 hours ago, Stargaze obama said:

So what am I supposed to be looking for? My budget is limited so I don't have the £100 people are saying

Well it depends on your budget. For around £50-55, you could get a 500w beQuiet! System Power 9 which would be a hell of a lot safer. Or save £10 by getting the 400w version. Either way, you won't get much cheaper without going to the used market

MAIN PC:

CPU: Intel® Core™ i9-9900K Processor  Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro Wifi  CPU Cooler: Scythe Fuma 2  GPU: EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra  RAM: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (4x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15

Case: CoolerMaster TD500 Mesh PSU: Thermaltake GF1 PE 750w Storage: 1TB Western Digital Blue 3D + 1TB Crucial P1 + 1TB ADATA XPG Gammix S11 Pro + 4TB Seagate Barracuda 5400RPM OS: Windows 10 Home

Headphones: Philips SHP9500s   Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 Cherry MX Red  Displays: Gigabyte M27Q (27" 1440p 170hz IPS), Samsung UN32EH4003FXZA (32" 768p 60hz TV)

 

SECONDARY PC:

CPU: Intel® Core™ i3-9100F Processor  Motherboard: ASRock Z390 Phantom Gaming 4-CB  CPU Cooler: Arctic Alpine 12 CO  GPU: EVGA RTX 3060 XC RAM: ADATA XPG 16GB (2x8GB) 2400Mhz CL16

Case: CyberpowerPC Onyxia  PSU: ATNG ATA-B 800w 80 Plus Bronze  Storage: 500GB Samsung 850 EVO + 2TB Seagate FireCuda SSHD 5400RPM    OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Former parts that I've used: Acer XG270HU, Asus Dual OC 2080, Gigabyte Aorus Master 3080, Gigabyte Gaming OC 3080, EVGA XC3 Ultra 3080, EVGA FTW3 Ultra 3080 Ti

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3 hours ago, MrBrightSyde said:

Well it depends on your budget. For around £50-55, you could get a 500w beQuiet! System Power 9 which would be a hell of a lot safer. Or save £10 by getting the 400w version. Either way, you won't get much cheaper without going to the used market

Is used a good option? Because I don't want to have to upgrade next year

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1 hour ago, Stargaze obama said:

Is used a good option? Because I don't want to have to upgrade next year

Depends on your budget and what you are planning on doing in the next year. If you are just going to use a lower power-drawing GPU, like the 570, and you aren't going to go over 300-350w, you could get a used PSU that at least has some quality instead of the Chinese brands with fake wattages.

 

I don't know about your second-hand market (I'm American), but if you can find the System Power 9 or something of similar quality used for around 30-35 pounds, you should be good even if you upgraded the rest of your system, though if you want a high-end GPU (like a 2080), it would be better to buy a new PSU both for the warranty and piece of mind that you won't have someone else's PSU that could be fucked up in some way.

MAIN PC:

CPU: Intel® Core™ i9-9900K Processor  Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro Wifi  CPU Cooler: Scythe Fuma 2  GPU: EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra  RAM: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (4x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15

Case: CoolerMaster TD500 Mesh PSU: Thermaltake GF1 PE 750w Storage: 1TB Western Digital Blue 3D + 1TB Crucial P1 + 1TB ADATA XPG Gammix S11 Pro + 4TB Seagate Barracuda 5400RPM OS: Windows 10 Home

Headphones: Philips SHP9500s   Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 Cherry MX Red  Displays: Gigabyte M27Q (27" 1440p 170hz IPS), Samsung UN32EH4003FXZA (32" 768p 60hz TV)

 

SECONDARY PC:

CPU: Intel® Core™ i3-9100F Processor  Motherboard: ASRock Z390 Phantom Gaming 4-CB  CPU Cooler: Arctic Alpine 12 CO  GPU: EVGA RTX 3060 XC RAM: ADATA XPG 16GB (2x8GB) 2400Mhz CL16

Case: CyberpowerPC Onyxia  PSU: ATNG ATA-B 800w 80 Plus Bronze  Storage: 500GB Samsung 850 EVO + 2TB Seagate FireCuda SSHD 5400RPM    OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Former parts that I've used: Acer XG270HU, Asus Dual OC 2080, Gigabyte Aorus Master 3080, Gigabyte Gaming OC 3080, EVGA XC3 Ultra 3080, EVGA FTW3 Ultra 3080 Ti

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What IS your budget exactly? Hard for us to actually recommend anything when we don't know what you are willing to spend?

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18 hours ago, verisimilar said:

What IS your budget exactly? Hard for us to actually recommend anything when we don't know what you are willing to spend?

Thought I mentioned it? As low as possible, don't mind paying around £30-£40 for one

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21 hours ago, MrBrightSyde said:

Depends on your budget and what you are planning on doing in the next year. If you are just going to use a lower power-drawing GPU, like the 570, and you aren't going to go over 300-350w, you could get a used PSU that at least has some quality instead of the Chinese brands with fake wattages.

 

I don't know about your second-hand market (I'm American), but if you can find the System Power 9 or something of similar quality used for around 30-35 pounds, you should be good even if you upgraded the rest of your system, though if you want a high-end GPU (like a 2080), it would be better to buy a new PSU both for the warranty and piece of mind that you won't have someone else's PSU that could be fucked up in some way.

Was maybe planning a rig upgrade later down the line to x99 based system when the prices of boards drop a little more hopefully

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