I need help with my case fans positions, its airflow and fancurves on a MESHIFY C.

[Neymessi010]

Hi there,

 

i just installed my first pc build this monday, but my cpu temps were really high in benchmarks and while playing warzone. Like 90-95c hot.

My idle temps are around 40-50. Most time 45c, but spikes up and down when opening programs

Its like 70-80c in csgo and valorant and like 80-85 in fortnite. all on the highest ultra settings and fixed at 144fps.

 

So because of those temps i just installed 2 140mm arctic p14 pwm pst fans in the front of my meshify c as intakes.

1 140mm arctic p14 pwm pst on top as exhaust

1 120mm stock meshify c on top as exhaust

1 120mm stock meshify c at the rear as exhaust.

PSU is facing down

CPU cooler is amd wraith stealth so stock

 

Is this case fans setup good or should i remove something. 

BTW i have 5 of those 140mm but i can only install 4 in this case, but i installed the 120mm up top because i couldnt fit the 2nd 140mm up top, because the cpu power 8 pin is in the way and i cant really bent it because its too hard.

 

Could someone also help me with the fan curves and tell me if i have to turn something else on or off?

 

I also have some pictures of the bios below with explanations.

https://imgur.com/gallery/WTM6mW2

 

Help is much appreciated and thanks in advance!

 

 

PCPartPicker Part List: https://nl.pcpartpicker.com/list/dDKjgJ

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor  (€184.00 @ Megekko) 
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO CPU Cooler  (Purchased For €40.00) 
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard  (€120.00) 
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  (€93.85 @ Megekko) 
Storage: ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  (€96.80 @ Megekko) 
Storage: Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (€42.94 @ Megekko) 
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB PULSE Video Card  (€449.00 @ Megekko) 
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case  (€94.85 @ Megekko) 
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (€99.85 @ Azerty) 
Case Fan: ARCTIC P14 PWM PST (5-pack) 72.8 CFM 140 mm Fans  (Purchased For €30.00) 
Monitor: MSI Optix MAG241C 23.6" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor  (Purchased For €0.00) 
Total: €1251.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-25 16:42 CEST+0200

 

Edited April 26, 2020 by Neymessi010

[Fatih19]

So you have 2 fan as intakes and 3 fans as exhaust? 2 of the intake is in the front, 2 of the exhaust is in the top?

[Neymessi010]

Yeah 2 140mm intakes front

140mm exhaust up top

120mm exhaust up top

120mm exhaust in the back/rear

[Skulltula]

Signed up to follow since I'm currently trying to figure the best set up of my Meshify C's fans, although I'm running different hardware (3700X, recently swapped from bundled cooler to an NH-U12S, x570e motherboard, Strix 2070s) and also running at 1440p ultrawide.

 

So different hardware aside, even with the bundled cooler I was running 2 140 noctuas in front as intake and a single 120 noctua s12a rear as exhaust...had curves for everything set for 60% up to 60C on the CPU and then go to full out by 80C. I was seeing idle around 35-44 (Zen 2 seems to build and then drop within a 10C range, or if nothing else my cpu does) and game wise I hadn't got it to go over 60 too easily (Doom 2016, RE2 RE3 Rise Tomb Raider, Rocket League).

 

Since swapping to the Noctua cpu cooler it's kinda a choice between about 8C off or running the fans slower. AI Suite and the mobo's own fan tuning seem to be happy for me to start at 20%, ramp in 30s more gradually and hit full out around 70C. Not sure how much I trust that yet. I've also just this morning decided since things are cool to run my lower 140 off the GPU's header and try the fan connect for science. Will report back with some results, although in honesty I'm largely happy on my CPU temps and just trying to make sure my GPU is giving the best account of itself.

 

Curious where you end up or if anyone else chips in, but I would agree your CPU temps seem high in games

[Jeppes]

The whole point of air-cooling is to get that fresh air from front towards the components you are trying to cool. It makes no sense to exhaust that fresh air from the roof before it heats up.

 

I would also look into the mounting of your cooler. Did you remove the plastic film and use thermal paste?

[Neymessi010]

3 hours ago, Jeppes said:

The whole point of air-cooling is to get that fresh air from front towards the components you are trying to cool. It makes no sense to exhaust that fresh air from the roof before it heats up.

 

I would also look into the mounting of your cooler. Did you remove the plastic film and use thermal paste?

So what youre trying to say is that i should not have any top exhausts or change them both to intakes?? sorry im a noob in all of this. I also made a fancurve in the bios now and its idling at 30-35 when every program is closed and like 40-45 ramping up to 55-60 when opening programs and browsing and watching twitch/youtube. But i hear my stock cpu cooler reaching 1900rpm during these idles 55+ so i think i set the curve too aggressive?

 

About the mounting, i had some trouble installing the stock cooler, because i couldnt allign the screws properly with the backplate so i might have picked it up and then reseated all in like 3 seconds. Maybe there were air pockets in the paste then idk. But i have an Arctic 34 esports duo coming next week, so i hope that one will improve my temps by alot. I dont think the stock cooler had any plastic film on it.

 

Thanks in advance and help is much appreciated.

[Skulltula]

2 hours ago, Jeppes said:

The whole point of air-cooling is to get that fresh air from front towards the components you are trying to cool. It makes no sense to exhaust that fresh air from the roof before it heats up.

 

I would also look into the mounting of your cooler. Did you remove the plastic film and use thermal paste?

It sounds like he's going front to top/back, which is the correct flow...I would argue the front top exhaust isn't needed though, just the rear exhaust, maybe rear top so you can drop the speed down. Personally I'd prefer to balance so that there's more intake force than exhaust for positive air pressure so I need to dust a little less.

 

The stock cooler will have had thermal paste pre-applied. If I remember correctly there isn't a plastic film but a plastic half shell.

 

Although that's assuming the stock cooler is still being used as per the text, the pcpartpicker list does have a different cooler. Would be nice to clarify if the cooler was changed and any difference seen.

[Neymessi010]

3 hours ago, Skulltula said:

Signed up to follow since I'm currently trying to figure the best set up of my Meshify C's fans, although I'm running different hardware (3700X, recently swapped from bundled cooler to an NH-U12S, x570e motherboard, Strix 2070s) and also running at 1440p ultrawide.

 

So different hardware aside, even with the bundled cooler I was running 2 140 noctuas in front as intake and a single 120 noctua s12a rear as exhaust...had curves for everything set for 60% up to 60C on the CPU and then go to full out by 80C. I was seeing idle around 35-44 (Zen 2 seems to build and then drop within a 10C range, or if nothing else my cpu does) and game wise I hadn't got it to go over 60 too easily (Doom 2016, RE2 RE3 Rise Tomb Raider, Rocket League).

 

Since swapping to the Noctua cpu cooler it's kinda a choice between about 8C off or running the fans slower. AI Suite and the mobo's own fan tuning seem to be happy for me to start at 20%, ramp in 30s more gradually and hit full out around 70C. Not sure how much I trust that yet. I've also just this morning decided since things are cool to run my lower 140 off the GPU's header and try the fan connect for science. Will report back with some results, although in honesty I'm largely happy on my CPU temps and just trying to make sure my GPU is giving the best account of itself.

 

Curious where you end up or if anyone else chips in, but I would agree your CPU temps seem high in games

My idles are pretty much the same with stock cooler. If you look at my other reply you can see the specifics. I have to say i noticed some improvement with extra case fans, but not by much. thats why im asking, because i dont know if my case fans setup is ideal with the mixture of 140mm and 120mm and i dont even know if i have a positive or negative pressure and or if that is bad or good.

 

im still waiting for my arctic 34 esports duo, so i hope it will help with the temps alot.

[Neymessi010]

7 minutes ago, Skulltula said:

It sounds like he's going front to top/back, which is the correct flow...I would argue the front top exhaust isn't needed though, just the rear exhaust, maybe rear top so you can drop the speed down. Personally I'd prefer to balance so that there's more intake force than exhaust for positive air pressure so I need to dust a little less.

 

The stock cooler will have had thermal paste pre-applied. If I remember correctly there isn't a plastic film but a plastic half shell.

 

Although that's assuming the stock cooler is still being used as per the text, the pcpartpicker list does have a different cooler. Would be nice to clarify if the cooler was changed and any difference seen.

Hi thanks for the reply.

 

If you look at the attached picture this is my fan setup:

The red ones are an Arctic p14 pwm pst so they are all connected to the same connetor via pst. Front are intakes and top is exhaust.

 

The blue ones are the stock case fans that come with the meshify c both as exhausts.

GPU has 2 fans facing down. 

CPU cooler is the stock from ryzen 5 3600 so the amd wraith stealth. My arctic esports 34 duo is arriving next week.

PSU is facing down.

 

Hope you can help me with the optimal case fans setup or say if this what i have is already good enough. eventough i have more exhausts then intakes? im a noob in these situations.

[Skulltula]

1 minute ago, Neymessi010 said:

My idles are pretty much the same with stock cooler. If you look at my other reply you can see the specifics. I have to say i noticed some improvement with extra case fans, but not by much. thats why im asking, because i dont know if my case fans setup is ideal with the mixture of 140mm and 120mm and i dont even know if i have a positive or negative pressure and or if that is bad or good.

 

im still waiting for my arctic 34 esports duo, so i hope it will help with the temps alot.

In answer to your other reply: any top and rear fans exhaust, front and bottom intake is a good general rule. You bring cool air in, it travels through the components on the way to where it exits as warmer air.

Whether you have negative or positive will come down to how hard each fan is working...if there's more intake pressure it'll be positive, more exhaust is negative. Negative pressure runs cooler but winds up dustier inside. With 3 exhaust and 2 intake you're likely negative unless the RPM are set differently. You could remove the top 140 (it being towards the front means it's more likely to exhaust cooler air) leaving you the 2x 120s in rear and top and likely be positive since 140s work more air through. Not a guarantee, but close enough.

If you're going to be installing a new cooler, I'd be tempted to play around with the curves after it's installed. Cooling is a balance between temperature and noise. If it was purely about best thermals only then whack all fans to 100% and invest in good headphones! If the fans are too noisy when the PC isn't doing much then change the curve so the fans start their ramp up later. I liked 60% up to 60C just because I found I was happy with consistent volume rather than the fans boosting and dropping constantly as temperature varied while under light usage. Gaming I was happier to tolerate some change as in most cases I had headphones and sound.

[Neymessi010]

2 minutes ago, Skulltula said:

In answer to your other reply: any top and rear fans exhaust, front and bottom intake is a good general rule. You bring cool air in, it travels through the components on the way to where it exits as warmer air.

Whether you have negative or positive will come down to how hard each fan is working...if there's more intake pressure it'll be positive, more exhaust is negative. Negative pressure runs cooler but winds up dustier inside. With 3 exhaust and 2 intake you're likely negative unless the RPM are set differently. You could remove the top 140 (it being towards the front means it's more likely to exhaust cooler air) leaving you the 2x 120s in rear and top and likely be positive since 140s work more air through. Not a guarantee, but close enough.

If you're going to be installing a new cooler, I'd be tempted to play around with the curves after it's installed. Cooling is a balance between temperature and noise. If it was purely about best thermals only then whack all fans to 100% and invest in good headphones! If the fans are too noisy when the PC isn't doing much then change the curve so the fans start their ramp up later. I liked 60% up to 60C just because I found I was happy with consistent volume rather than the fans boosting and dropping constantly as temperature varied while under light usage. Gaming I was happier to tolerate some change as in most cases I had headphones and sound.

Okay thanks. Its just because i bought a 5 pack arctic p14 thats why wanted to use them all. but i had trouble installing the 2nd at the top because the cpu power 8pin was in the way of the fan. So youre recommending dropping 1 top fan. What about dropping the 120mm top one and moving the 140mm further back at the top. I btw edited my post with a picture of my fan setup.

[Skulltula]

Taking out the top 120 and moving the 140 back is also an option yeah.

[Neymessi010]

1 minute ago, Skulltula said:

Taking out the top 120 and moving the 140 back is also an option yeah.

Okay thanks, you seem to be really knowledgable and you are very helpful! I really appreciate it. Could i dm you maybe next week when the new CPU cooler arrives, if i have any other problems or if i need any help with good fancurves in bios and such? Thanks in advance!

[Skulltula]

1 minute ago, Neymessi010 said:

Okay thanks, you seem to be really knowledgable and you are very helpful! I really appreciate it. Could i dm you maybe next week when the new CPU cooler arrives, if i have any other problems or if i need any help with good fancurves in bios and such? Thanks in advance!

I'm following this topic and get notifications on it and posting here means anyone else can reply. Fan curves is just playing around to be honest which is all I'm doing with my current build unless someone winds up sharing curves that work for them I can tweak from

[LogicalDrm]

So basic fan layout. Nothing to worry there. GPU temps can be higher because of PSU shroud. High CPU temps are most likely due to voltages and auto-OC going on. On Ryzen this is called PBO. The temps aren't dangerous, but if you want them cooler, just disable PBO.

[Neymessi010]

GPU temps seems to be good i think considering i have an 5700 xt sapphire. Its 45-55 idle 0 RPM. Stable 50 most of the times. And during games it is in the 70 max 80s. Junction is like a little bit higher. Do you recommend facing my PSU up because seasonic recommends that in their manual. But i have an opening at bottom, so i thought when i face it down, it will take in  cool air exhaust it from the back of the PSU.

 

About the CPU: yeah i see my max cpu voltages reach 1.4 which is high i have heard, also i dont see auto oc in my bios tomahawk max, but i see PBO which is on auto. I dont know if auto is on or off on this board.

I see core performance boost which is also on auto maybe this is auto oc.

 

[LogicalDrm]

6 hours ago, Neymessi010 said:

Do you recommend facing my PSU up because seasonic recommends that in their manual. But i have an opening at bottom, so i thought when i face it down, it will take in  cool air exhaust it from the back of the PSU.

 

PSU should be facing direction where it gets air from. So downwards as you have shroud blocking airflow from above.

 

6 hours ago, Neymessi010 said:

About the CPU: yeah i see my max cpu voltages reach 1.4 which is high i have heard, also i dont see auto oc in my bios tomahawk max, but i see PBO which is on auto. I dont know if auto is on or off on this board.

I see core performance boost which is also on auto maybe this is auto oc.

PBO is essentially auto-OC. It will draw up voltages and adjust clock speeds if your cooling gives it room for it.

 

The following is bit on speculation side, since AMD doesn't have actual numbers. On Intel CPU max temp is 105C and target temp 75C. Target temp means what the stock cooler is aimed to cool CPU while normal tasks are performed (so no stress testing, but productivity and gaming). AMD gives max temp of 95C. On one review I saw mention about 80C on stock cooling. So it could be said that AMDs target temp for 3600 (review was for 3700X) on stock cooling is 80C. Meaning that if you are using beefier cooling and PBO, it will use same target temp when adjusting voltage and clock speed. Though this is pure speculation.